Changing gears
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Changing gears
So I’ve got a 1991 Trek 1200 that I absolutely love. I compete with my arch nemesis, myself, every time that I ride. But I realize that I will never gain the leg strength I need to hit my top speed on my bike with its gearing as it is today. It’s all RX 100 equipment with the cranks at 53 & 42t. The cassette is 13-24t. I want to destroy my nemesis! I actually have more than one: a bad back, crepitous in both knees, generalized wussyitis (I get tired out so quickly when I hit it hard) & some others I’m sure.
So so here is my plan. I want the big front chainring reduces to a 50t. I have no idea if it is 130 BCD, PD, or what have you. I don’t know if 130 is correct. I am new & know every little although I am learning. If I could just take off that large ring & replace it with a slightly smaller, yet not compact, I think I would be able to keep it in its higher gear for longer periods without being so exhausted.
So so my questions are is this possible to do? I don’t want a new crankset. I am nostalgic & hard headed & will NOT go modern. I just need a slightly smaller chain ring. Any help or info out there?
So so here is my plan. I want the big front chainring reduces to a 50t. I have no idea if it is 130 BCD, PD, or what have you. I don’t know if 130 is correct. I am new & know every little although I am learning. If I could just take off that large ring & replace it with a slightly smaller, yet not compact, I think I would be able to keep it in its higher gear for longer periods without being so exhausted.
So so my questions are is this possible to do? I don’t want a new crankset. I am nostalgic & hard headed & will NOT go modern. I just need a slightly smaller chain ring. Any help or info out there?
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Yes, you are on the right track! I believe the Shimano RSX double crank should be a 130 bcd. This means that replacement aftermarket chainrings should not be hard to find. If you change your big ring out for a 50 tooth, then you could also change your inner ring out for a 38 tooth. I believe the RSX crank also came in a triple that had nice usable chainrings like 28/38/50 or something like that. You might check the inside of your spider to see if there are threaded bosses to accommodate a “granny” ring.
You’re preaching to the choir as far as coping with a long list of aging set-backs. Overcoming our shortcomings is in our wheelhouse! Crepitus in knees is just a warning that you need to keep your spin effort moderate and that you’ve learned the value of not mashing. Bad backs are the same type thing. I’ve had the low back surgery and have learned that working on core strength back/hip/hamstring flexibility all take ongoing work to be functional.
You’re preaching to the choir as far as coping with a long list of aging set-backs. Overcoming our shortcomings is in our wheelhouse! Crepitus in knees is just a warning that you need to keep your spin effort moderate and that you’ve learned the value of not mashing. Bad backs are the same type thing. I’ve had the low back surgery and have learned that working on core strength back/hip/hamstring flexibility all take ongoing work to be functional.
Last edited by masi61; 10-06-18 at 03:15 PM.
#3
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Try a gear calculator to work out the best chainrings for your needs.
Also, Sheldon Brown has a chart online that gives bcd based on distance between 2 holes.
Also, Sheldon Brown has a chart online that gives bcd based on distance between 2 holes.
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Good advice thus far on the equipment front.
It sounds like you are also wanting to improve fitness, which brings basic training into the conversation.
I'm assuming wussytis is a humorous term for the subtle physio-psychological game that all of us face.
Start slow.
Periodically, push at a strong effort for a minute or two, where you are at the edge of your comfort zone (or slightly beyond, preferably) and allow yourself to recover by riding nice and easy. Repeat. This is the start of "intervals" type training. By pushing the body to its limits periodically, the body responds by strengthening.
Not to pull cheesy 80's marketing into the mix, but there was some basic wisdom in "no pain, no gain"
Keep at it!
I'm not sure if a gearing change is the only solution - start with a training mindset to help improve fitness on the gearing you have, then determine if the gearing itself is an issue.
Good luck!
It sounds like you are also wanting to improve fitness, which brings basic training into the conversation.
I'm assuming wussytis is a humorous term for the subtle physio-psychological game that all of us face.
Start slow.
Periodically, push at a strong effort for a minute or two, where you are at the edge of your comfort zone (or slightly beyond, preferably) and allow yourself to recover by riding nice and easy. Repeat. This is the start of "intervals" type training. By pushing the body to its limits periodically, the body responds by strengthening.
Not to pull cheesy 80's marketing into the mix, but there was some basic wisdom in "no pain, no gain"
Keep at it!
I'm not sure if a gearing change is the only solution - start with a training mindset to help improve fitness on the gearing you have, then determine if the gearing itself is an issue.
Good luck!
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Yes, you are on the right track! I believe the Shimano RSX double crank should be a 130 bcd. This means that replacement aftermarket chainrings should not be hard to find. If you change your big ring out for a 50 tooth, then you could also change your inner ring out for a 38 tooth. I believe the RSX crank also came in a triple that had nice usable chainrings like 28/38/50 or something like that. You might check the inside of your spider to see if there are threaded bosses to accommodate a “granny” ring.
You’re preaching to the choir as far as coping with a long list of aging set-backs. Overcoming our shortcomings is in our wheelhouse! Crepitus in knees is just a warning that you need to keep your spin effort moderate and that you’ve learned the value of not mashing. Bad backs are the same type thing. I’ve had the low back surgery and have learned that working on core strength back/hip/hamstring flexibility all take ongoing work to be functional.
You’re preaching to the choir as far as coping with a long list of aging set-backs. Overcoming our shortcomings is in our wheelhouse! Crepitus in knees is just a warning that you need to keep your spin effort moderate and that you’ve learned the value of not mashing. Bad backs are the same type thing. I’ve had the low back surgery and have learned that working on core strength back/hip/hamstring flexibility all take ongoing work to be functional.
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Good advice thus far on the equipment front.
It sounds like you are also wanting to improve fitness, which brings basic training into the conversation.
I'm assuming wussytis is a humorous term for the subtle physio-psychological game that all of us face.
Start slow.
Periodically, push at a strong effort for a minute or two, where you are at the edge of your comfort zone (or slightly beyond, preferably) and allow yourself to recover by riding nice and easy. Repeat. This is the start of "intervals" type training. By pushing the body to its limits periodically, the body responds by strengthening.
Not to pull cheesy 80's marketing into the mix, but there was some basic wisdom in "no pain, no gain"
Keep at it!
I'm not sure if a gearing change is the only solution - start with a training mindset to help improve fitness on the gearing you have, then determine if the gearing itself is an issue.
Good luck!
It sounds like you are also wanting to improve fitness, which brings basic training into the conversation.
I'm assuming wussytis is a humorous term for the subtle physio-psychological game that all of us face.
Start slow.
Periodically, push at a strong effort for a minute or two, where you are at the edge of your comfort zone (or slightly beyond, preferably) and allow yourself to recover by riding nice and easy. Repeat. This is the start of "intervals" type training. By pushing the body to its limits periodically, the body responds by strengthening.
Not to pull cheesy 80's marketing into the mix, but there was some basic wisdom in "no pain, no gain"
Keep at it!
I'm not sure if a gearing change is the only solution - start with a training mindset to help improve fitness on the gearing you have, then determine if the gearing itself is an issue.
Good luck!
Yep! You’ve absolutely nailed the term haha! I am hyper critical of myself & used to run competitively (hence the crepitus). I also am a gym rat, just not a muscle head. Nothing against anyone who is, it’s just not how I train. And interval training is the best way to go. I have my CPT (Certified Personal Trainer) certification & completely like & get what you are saying. This is part of my frustration with cycling. Specifically, I am not strong enough to ride for as long as I want to in my highest gear. So my big plan is to use a smaller front chainring AND I’m going to change my cassette. Also, being new to cycling, any other suggestions, whether physical training or equipment or riding strategies & technique are completely welcome.
By way, I am a trainer who specializes in weight loss & maintaining that weight loss. But I am not a know it all. Any training suggestions I will follow to a T. Oh, one other thing, “cheesy 80’s” anything is right up my alley hahaha!
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If you have a 130mm bolt circle, that will work. You could also consider a different freewheel or cassette, depending on what u have.
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WRT gears, it’s all about the ratio. Whether you go to a smaller front or bigger rear doesn’t matter. It’s the ratio that’s important.
Fitting a ”junior” cassette will do pretty much the same thing at lesser cost compared to swapping chainrings.
Fitting a ”junior” cassette will do pretty much the same thing at lesser cost compared to swapping chainrings.
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Specifically, I am not strong enough to ride for as long as I want to in my highest gear.
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So I’ve got a 1991 Trek 1200 that I absolutely love. I compete with my arch nemesis, myself, every time that I ride. But I realize that I will never gain the leg strength I need to hit my top speed on my bike with its gearing as it is today. It’s all RX 100 equipment with the cranks at 53 & 42t. The cassette is 13-24t. I want to destroy my nemesis! I actually have more than one: a bad back, crepitous in both knees, generalized wussyitis (I get tired out so quickly when I hit it hard) & some others I’m sure.
So so here is my plan. I want the big front chainring reduces to a 50t. I have no idea if it is 130 BCD, PD, or what have you. I don’t know if 130 is correct. I am new & know every little although I am learning. If I could just take off that large ring & replace it with a slightly smaller, yet not compact, I think I would be able to keep it in its higher gear for longer periods without being so exhausted.
So so my questions are is this possible to do? I don’t want a new crankset. I am nostalgic & hard headed & will NOT go modern. I just need a slightly smaller chain ring. Any help or info out there?
So so here is my plan. I want the big front chainring reduces to a 50t. I have no idea if it is 130 BCD, PD, or what have you. I don’t know if 130 is correct. I am new & know every little although I am learning. If I could just take off that large ring & replace it with a slightly smaller, yet not compact, I think I would be able to keep it in its higher gear for longer periods without being so exhausted.
So so my questions are is this possible to do? I don’t want a new crankset. I am nostalgic & hard headed & will NOT go modern. I just need a slightly smaller chain ring. Any help or info out there?
I have the same bike as you, year model and everything. I really don't have any advice about the big chain switch, but one thing that has helped me a lot on getting faster is riding some hill repeats. I do about 5-7 intervals on a .2 mile hill that has a grade of about 6.1%. I go for about an hour or so, with some recovery laps in a parking lot near the hill. I do this about once a week. I have found this really helps for me. Riding hills has made me much faster overall.
Also if you are not riding clipless that is another way to get more efficient riding too. I was shocked at how much faster I got by going clipless, especially on hills.
Hope these help.
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If your cassette is original then it's a 13-23. If you want to stay in your small ring longer before having to shift to the big and get better climbing gears then get an 11-28 or something. Sunrace makes really nice ones for little money.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SUNRACE-M40...cAAOSwHHFY~lYc
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SUNRACE-M40...cAAOSwHHFY~lYc
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Dude, I love the name & the guitar would be a dream to play! I’m a self taught (aka, not so great) guitar player. Thank you for verifying the equipment I’m looking into!
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Thanks dabac, but so far knowledge regarding gear ratios eludes me. Can you either give me a quick class or point in the direction of one?
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bwilli88, I can totally appreciate what you’re saying. When I’m picking up speed & im on my sixth rear sprocket (7speed cassette) I over power it so I switch to my seventh. I keep my cadence & then have to put more power into it stride by stride until I have to back off a gear. When I do, I go back to pedaling with a resistance that is too low again. Any insight into this?
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Hey Don,
I have the same bike as you, year model and everything. I really don't have any advice about the big chain switch, but one thing that has helped me a lot on getting faster is riding some hill repeats. I do about 5-7 intervals on a .2 mile hill that has a grade of about 6.1%. I go for about an hour or so, with some recovery laps in a parking lot near the hill. I do this about once a week. I have found this really helps for me. Riding hills has made me much faster overall.
Also if you are not riding clipless that is another way to get more efficient riding too. I was shocked at how much faster I got by going clipless, especially on hills.
Hope these help.
I have the same bike as you, year model and everything. I really don't have any advice about the big chain switch, but one thing that has helped me a lot on getting faster is riding some hill repeats. I do about 5-7 intervals on a .2 mile hill that has a grade of about 6.1%. I go for about an hour or so, with some recovery laps in a parking lot near the hill. I do this about once a week. I have found this really helps for me. Riding hills has made me much faster overall.
Also if you are not riding clipless that is another way to get more efficient riding too. I was shocked at how much faster I got by going clipless, especially on hills.
Hope these help.
A couple of of guys local to me have made the same suggestion regarding the clipless pedals. I’m still on the fence, but hearing the same thing about gaining speed is starting to sink in.
I also like like the advice on the interval training. I really should focus on my problem areas (mainly hills) rather than trying to beat my 20 mile trail times. Thanks for the advice. I guess it’s time to face the reality that I need to focus my training.
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If your cassette is original then it's a 13-23. If you want to stay in your small ring longer before having to shift to the big and get better climbing gears then get an 11-28 or something. Sunrace makes really nice ones for little money.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SUNRACE-M40...cAAOSwHHFY~lYc
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SUNRACE-M40...cAAOSwHHFY~lYc
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Any combination that end up as 4:1 will feel the same to pedal.
48:12, 52:13 etc etc
They rarely end up as neat, but hopefully you’ll see the point.
The ratio is what matters, not where you change it.
so instead of changing to a smaller front, simply ride a bigger rear.
There is nothing about a compact crank that’ll ”magically” make you a better rider - unless it provides you with useful ratios you’re currently missing.
#20
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You are thinking about this all wrong. There's a much simpler solution: shift down into a lower gear. Concentrate on you cadence and your actual speed.
The highest gear is meant for long shallow downhills, riding in a group, fast sprints, etc. No one leaves it in the highest gear all the time, and it's a bad idea to do so. You'll screw up your knees for one. It will also tend to wear out the small cog in the back prematurely.
The highest gear is meant for long shallow downhills, riding in a group, fast sprints, etc. No one leaves it in the highest gear all the time, and it's a bad idea to do so. You'll screw up your knees for one. It will also tend to wear out the small cog in the back prematurely.
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You are thinking about this all wrong. There's a much simpler solution: shift down into a lower gear. Concentrate on you cadence and your actual speed.
The highest gear is meant for long shallow downhills, riding in a group, fast sprints, etc. No one leaves it in the highest gear all the time, and it's a bad idea to do so. You'll screw up your knees for one. It will also tend to wear out the small cog in the back prematurely.
The highest gear is meant for long shallow downhills, riding in a group, fast sprints, etc. No one leaves it in the highest gear all the time, and it's a bad idea to do so. You'll screw up your knees for one. It will also tend to wear out the small cog in the back prematurely.
#22
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You are thinking about this all wrong. There's a much simpler solution: shift down into a lower gear. Concentrate on you cadence and your actual speed.
The highest gear is meant for long shallow downhills, riding in a group, fast sprints, etc. No one leaves it in the highest gear all the time, and it's a bad idea to do so. You'll screw up your knees for one. It will also tend to wear out the small cog in the back prematurely.
The highest gear is meant for long shallow downhills, riding in a group, fast sprints, etc. No one leaves it in the highest gear all the time, and it's a bad idea to do so. You'll screw up your knees for one. It will also tend to wear out the small cog in the back prematurely.
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That’s another point, salamandrine. When I am riding in a group, I am in my top gear while the other guys have three and four years left to go. If they want to start turning it out, I have to really step it out to keep up. When I’m in my top gear and they are not, our cadence is the same. When they hit their top gear, I am almost at a sprint just to keep up. I am not used to being thie slow guy. This bothers the hell out of me.
my (Bike) didn’t cost me $1000 or more. My gear as far as clothing isn’t top of the line. My determination and my dedication don’t cost me a thing. Also, I don’t particularly like it when I hear people pointing out that my gear isn’t top of the line. I ride an old bike. So what. What I wear doesn’t cost me hundreds of dollars. I like to ride! And I’m not in a fashion show. I also plan to break away from some of the people with those types of “Values.” But before I do, well, me and my old bike will be making a statement.
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I remeber how how determined I was when running competitively to beat my six minute mile time. I wanted the first digit to be a 5. Some people told me I wasn’t being realistic & also pointed out that I wasn’t a pro. Well, it has never been my intention to be one. I just want to accomplish certain goals & I don’t care if they seem realistic to anyone. My best 1 mile time was 5:56. Not a pro time. But, I did what I set out to do.
#25
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^^^ maybe try a different approach to training. I notice people don't really do as many miles nowadays. In ye olde days, racers would often do like 400+ miles a week for a couple months to start the year (pros more than that), pretty much all in the small chainring (42). Then, drop your mileage and start doing speedwork, intervals, races, hard group rides. It's time consuming to train this way, but it does have the side benefit of strengthening all your tendons and what not before you start abusing them with hill climbs and all out sprints. Plus it will make you very fast.
Do watch your heart rate because overtraining can happen.
Do watch your heart rate because overtraining can happen.