How To Remove A Stuck Crank ?
05-30-20, 07:03 PM
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How To Remove A Stuck Crank ?
This thing had been sitting outside for quite a while, obviously neglected so I rescued it from total destruction...
05-30-20, 07:06 PM
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I was able to strip all of the components from the frame without too much effort, but the crank.........the crank would not submit to the extractor...
05-30-20, 07:09 PM
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I'm assuming you undid the crank fixing bolt. You could try some heat as aluminum and steel expand at different rates. Barring that I've seen gear pullers used before.
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05-30-20, 07:10 PM
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...a couple of cycles of torch heating around the area that fits onto the spindle, followed each time with the addition of penetrating oil. Make sure when you pull the crank bolts you also get the washers out. then use a regular crank extractor of the proper size and threading. Make sure you screw the extractor threads all the way into the crank socket threads. Should come off easily after the heat and penetrant.
Cut the chain off with a bolt cutter.
...a couple of cycles of torch heating around the area that fits onto the spindle, followed each time with the addition of penetrating oil. Make sure when you pull the crank bolts you also get the washers out. then use a regular crank extractor of the proper size and threading. Make sure you screw the extractor threads all the way into the crank socket threads. Should come off easily after the heat and penetrant.
Cut the chain off with a bolt cutter.
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05-30-20, 07:10 PM
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...being low-end and not having a matching non-drive-side arm, I decided to treat it as I would a rotted piece of lumber...
05-30-20, 07:11 PM
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05-30-20, 07:12 PM
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...destructive removal also works.
...destructive removal also works.
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05-30-20, 07:15 PM
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05-30-20, 07:17 PM
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I was careful not to cut into the spindle, but as it turns out, the BB is a cheap Shimano sealed thing that does not turn very easily.
05-30-20, 07:35 PM
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05-30-20, 07:58 PM
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slightly OT -
both ELDI and VAR produced pullers for cottered chainsets
here are photos of the ELDI version
the "Frankenstein electrodes" thread into the hole vacated by the cotter
the bolt on the tail is for levelling
-----
slightly OT -
both ELDI and VAR produced pullers for cottered chainsets
here are photos of the ELDI version
the "Frankenstein electrodes" thread into the hole vacated by the cotter
the bolt on the tail is for levelling
-----
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05-30-20, 08:15 PM
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That's awesome !
05-30-20, 08:23 PM
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Milwaukee universal remover tool. 
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05-30-20, 08:42 PM
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[QUOTE=branko_76;21506635]...being low-end and not having a matching non-drive-side arm, I decided to treat it as I would a rotted piece of lumber...
For future note it would have been much more easy to go at this from the none drive side you would likely have got the crank off with out cutting. If you need to cut just no an the sawsalll type tool on bike metal it's just really danger and doesn't work good. I f you must cut use a a grind off with a quality blade.
For future note it would have been much more easy to go at this from the none drive side you would likely have got the crank off with out cutting. If you need to cut just no an the sawsalll type tool on bike metal it's just really danger and doesn't work good. I f you must cut use a a grind off with a quality blade.
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05-30-20, 08:58 PM
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[QUOTE=zukahn1;21506766]
I'm sure you're right but there is already a dent in my index finger from years of using the Milwaukee Sawzall.......
...being low-end and not having a matching non-drive-side arm, I decided to treat it as I would a rotted piece of lumber...
For future note it would have been much more easy to go at this from the none drive side you would likely have got the crank off with out cutting. If you need to cut just no an the sawsalll type tool on bike metal it's just really danger and doesn't work good. I f you must cut use a a grind off with a quality blade.
For future note it would have been much more easy to go at this from the none drive side you would likely have got the crank off with out cutting. If you need to cut just no an the sawsalll type tool on bike metal it's just really danger and doesn't work good. I f you must cut use a a grind off with a quality blade.
Last edited by branko_76; 05-30-20 at 09:55 PM.
05-30-20, 09:03 PM
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05-30-20, 09:47 PM
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fyi, there's also a spray can product called "freeze off" i've had a good results with from time to time. made by CRC available at o'reilly's, atleast
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05-31-20, 02:04 AM
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Next time remember the option of taking the bolt out and then going for a ride. You may think I'm kidding but it's pretty effective. Apologies if this was mentioned and I missed it.
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05-31-20, 04:00 AM
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[QUOTE=zukahn1;21506766]
Two other ways, each saves the crank (perhaps...)
a) cut the axle between the crank and the BB shell.
b) remove the axle & crank & fixed cup entirely, then cut the fixed cup off. This requires a good open-ended spanner, force, care, and a cup that will come off; so it's only worth trying if the axle is worth it - and the cup is more bother to cut than the axle.
Then you can arrange matters to much more easily get the axle out - a big vice and big socket or bit of pipe (supporting the base of the crank) should do.
...being low-end and not having a matching non-drive-side arm, I decided to treat it as I would a rotted piece of lumber...
For future note it would have been much more easy to go at this from the none drive side you would likely have got the crank off with out cutting. If you need to cut just no an the sawsalll type tool on bike metal it's just really danger and doesn't work good. I f you must cut use a a grind off with a quality blade.
For future note it would have been much more easy to go at this from the none drive side you would likely have got the crank off with out cutting. If you need to cut just no an the sawsalll type tool on bike metal it's just really danger and doesn't work good. I f you must cut use a a grind off with a quality blade.
a) cut the axle between the crank and the BB shell.
b) remove the axle & crank & fixed cup entirely, then cut the fixed cup off. This requires a good open-ended spanner, force, care, and a cup that will come off; so it's only worth trying if the axle is worth it - and the cup is more bother to cut than the axle.
Then you can arrange matters to much more easily get the axle out - a big vice and big socket or bit of pipe (supporting the base of the crank) should do.
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05-31-20, 04:39 AM
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Engineering 101 use the mildest means necessary. No left crank so that is the easiest way..
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06-01-20, 11:08 AM
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If the crank puller isn't providing enough pull for a stubborn crank, just leave the tool in place, fully tensioned.
Then position the cranks horizontal and jump on the pedals. Reverse the cranks 180-degrees and repeat.
Then re-tension the puller, noting that it now screws in a little further. Repeat the above and the crank comes right off after just a few rounds.
Nothing damaged, and all of a few minutes effort.
I use a similar approach for when cotters don't yield (without bending!!!) to a cotter press. I leave the tool tensioned in place and usually use a torch heat cycle in lieu of jumping on the pedals. But I will have to try it some day without the torch since jumping on the pedals works so well on square-taper cranks so might similarly help crack loose a stubborn, precious, hardened OEM cotter.
Then position the cranks horizontal and jump on the pedals. Reverse the cranks 180-degrees and repeat.
Then re-tension the puller, noting that it now screws in a little further. Repeat the above and the crank comes right off after just a few rounds.
Nothing damaged, and all of a few minutes effort.
I use a similar approach for when cotters don't yield (without bending!!!) to a cotter press. I leave the tool tensioned in place and usually use a torch heat cycle in lieu of jumping on the pedals. But I will have to try it some day without the torch since jumping on the pedals works so well on square-taper cranks so might similarly help crack loose a stubborn, precious, hardened OEM cotter.
Last edited by dddd; 06-01-20 at 11:14 AM.
