bikemike73 

I am not sure how to remove these pedals

Do I use an allen wrench or pedal wrench ?

I still believe pedals loosen toward the rear of the bike

Please see pic.

Thank you

Appreciate any and all help

SurferRosa

When they accept a 6mm allen key from the backside, I use both tools for removal. A pedal wrench to get it started, and then the allen key to finish the job.

When mounting, you only need to use the allen key unless the threads are super tight and more leverage is needed.





Reverse thread on the nds!

bikemike73 

Would you hold the allen wrench at the back of the pedal and loosen with the pedal wrench ?

Or just use the pedal wrench ?

Seems simple, but I do not want to " strip" by mistake

Thank you for all the help !!

Bikejock200M

A pedal wrench is best, more leverage. And Allen wrench will work, may need a Cheater bar or something for more leverage. I have never used both. Be careful of where your hand and the wrench are positioned, so when it breaks free, you dont drive your hand into chainring tech or something similar

tyler_fred

SurferRosa is saying use the pedal wrench first for the leverage to break free, and then use the Allen wrench/hex key for speedy removal. I try to orient the wrench so that I can squeeze the wrench and crank arm towards each other to break free. Or you could loosen with a wrench and then grab the pedal and crank forward or reverse depending on the side being removed. This will back the threads out of the crank arm.

bikemike73 

Excellent info

Thank you !!!!

Lascauxcaveman 

First step: Soak pedal threads with PB Blaster, then...

plonz 

Most clipless pedals are allen wrench-only. I see a hex head peaking through the arm and I’ll naturally just go with the allen wrench.

Prowler 

This is an approach I use a lot - squeezing a tool against something solid. Pedal wrench against a pedal, BB lock ring wrench against a frame tube, 15mm wrench on an axle nut against a seat stay, etc. Much more controlled, much less chance of knuckle buster. However many pedals are REALLY on there. I always start with a pedal wrench as it sits right next to the crank arm. No "moment arm".

Allen/hex keys are too long, even hex key sockets. The force you apply to the tool is partially applied to loosening the pedal and largely applied to caming the tool out of out of the pedal. As stated, get it loose with the pedal wrench and finish with the Allen key if you like. If I cannot squeeze the pedal wrench against a crank arm, I'll often lash the opposite crank arm to a chain stay to immobilize it, then force the pedal wrench.

Oh, and never loosen nor tighten a fitting with that ball end of the Allen key. In fact, cut those ball ends off and bin em. There's no place for them in a bike shop. ( how's that for an inflammatory remark?)

madpogue 

Of the dozen or so sets of clipless pedals I've had, I would guess one, maybe two, were allen wrench only. If most were allen wrench only, that would severely restrict choices for those with crank arms with closed-end pedal threads (which, granted, are rare).

plonz 

Fair. Got caught generalizing my own experiences. Once you get past SPD pedals, I think it’s more common. Any Keo derivative I’ve ever owned was only allen wrench.

Back to OP‘s original question, I usually use just the allen wrench but an open end wrench is certainly better for pipe extensions and hammering if needed.

SurferRosa

That's mechanical advantage!

Can we get a hilarious gif with this caption and the feller from the Park Tool videos? I would put that in my sig.

Seriously, I sorta love these simple, but profound aspects of wrenching and basic physics. I sometimes tell folks, "the way a bike works is two nuts can lock together on a bolt. That's how it's all able to work. "