davei1980

My pedals are close to replacing, any slim profile platforms out there which are good for MTB? I am thinking this might be a good way to minimize pedal strikes (I am already running 165mm cranks and working hard at "choosing a better line" LOL)

I just noticed my pedals are pretty thick.

I am not enamored with the Fyxation Gates pedals, would like something with replaceable pins, if possible, and these ones look like the center of the pedal is higher than the perimeter (possible comfort/grip issue) although they ARE ball bearing pedals so that's cool.

Any recommendations for slim platform pedals out there or am I barking up the incorrect tree?

I have a set of eggbeaters and cleats too and haven't ruled that out but I have yet to try MTB with clipless setup, only platforms.

Thanks in advance!

qclabrat

clipless is the way to go to minimize pedal strikes, but does not work for all or all situations. Before I suggest what I've used, have you considered bigger tires if possible to bump up the BB height?
Had to look up the Fyxation pedals, looks like they are plastic, if you like the poly pedals, most like the RF Chesters, comes in lots of colors and removable pins. Though can't get too thin with plastic pedals due to flex. I personally don't like poly, I like to feel more weight on the pedals, but that's just me. Two thin pedals I've had luck with are Spank Spikes and VP-001. I beat my pedals pretty good since I'm a reformed roadie and still accustomed to spinning.

WannaGetGood

I feel like the pedal strike problem is more of a skill concern than just losing some millimetres from pedals. I like the tire idea from qclabrat. I strike my pedals from time to time, but I know that it was my fault due to stance and my own crank positioning. There are tons of pedals out there to choose from. I would find the ones that catch your eye and fit your budget. I have a hard time believing that one pedal out performs another by a wide margin. With that said, I am thinking in the $100 to $200 CDN range.

davei1980

Good call on bigger tires but already running 29x3.0 and I don't LOVE the 29x3.25 options out there (Vee Bulldozer)
I love to spin! maybe that's my problem LOL! The RF Chesters are on my short list for sure. Thanks for weighing in

davei1980

Agreed this is mostly a rider and not equipment issue. That said, as long as I am shelling out $$ to replace something might as well be an improvement right?

davei1980

UPDATE - On my ride this AM I really focused on crank position, I noticed something important:

I only suffered pedal strikes when my focus was lost or was not paying attention - there were a couple points today where I was distracted by deer and turkey at really not very technical parts of the trail and **whammo**

then on the actual technical rock gardens, etc, nada.

there's a lesson there for me....

Leebo

What bike are you on that has 29x3 tires and still getting pedal strikes?

davei1980

My bike is a Jones Plus LWB. One of the more charming characteristics is the famously-low BB.

Mine is the cheaper iteration without the eccentric BB option - all the guys I know who have the eccentric BB just turn it to the 12:00 position to get the most clearance.

I didn't buy it to do strictly mountain biking, but with my office closed I have been riding on the MTB trail network near my house every AM and having a blast.

Kapusta

Pedal strikes are one of the reasons why manufacturers strive to make thinner pedals, so you are obliviously not alone in your desire for them.

I don't have any particular recs, but if you just google "thin flat pedals" I see a lot of reviews. It would help to know just how thick yours are before looking at new ones so that you have something to compare to.

Be wary of how some companies measure their pedals. Some are really thin at the edges, but are thicker in the middle to accommodate the bearings and axle, and are thus convex in shape, which I find problematic (rather have concave). And some get around THAT be using very thin axles/bearings.

davei1980

That's what I noticed in the cheaper ones - the Fyxation pedals noted above. That seems really uncomfortable.

I am running DMR V6 pedals now; I just wanted to get a feel for platforms and if I liked them and these were only $20. They're about 19mm thick and have polymer pins that are almost all sheered off so just about time to upgrade.

I don't mind poly pedals but I can see how it's possible to make thinner pedals out of alloy. I may try clipless too, we'll see... I love them on the road but still learning super technical MTB trails so not sure if they're ideal (except for the improved clearance)

Kapusta

I'm not so sure clip-less will have fewer strikes. They do not stick out as far front and back, but they are generally thicker.

qclabrat

I think Dave is using eggbeaters, I use them and spds. My spds are a mess but the eggs are all pretty clean. My only issue are with the lower end eggs which rust with a few rain drops

qclabrat

which tires are you running? As you know 3" tires are not created equally. For example my FatBNimble tires on Dually rims are only about the with of average 2.6" 29rs setups and tiny next to the Dirt Wizards.

davei1980

True!

I have both the road bike (non-caged) versions and the MTB versions I can deploy

davei1980

EXCELLENT POINT!

I am running Vee Tires T-Fattys

I don't love them but they do run true to size, within 1mm on both.

Planning on switching to Chronicles when these wear out.

qclabrat

I gave my Trax Fattys away, but they were the 27.5+ size. Was on my trail bike (Banshee Prime) and front was always washing out. I'm a rather technically poor rider on fast turns and really rely on a front with larger side knobs to compensate for my cornering skills. I've had a number of lessons to correct this but just need to weight the outside pedal better. (a primary reason I favor heavier pedals, on lighter pedals, sometimes don't feel them as easily) They should be pretty good for rears. If you start wearing one out, consider switching the good one to the rear and replace the front with the Maxxis. Some are stuck on matchy tires, but I've gone through so many in the last 2 years, nothing matches anymore. The Banshee is currently on a High Roller 2 front and Rekon rear, really nice combo for rowdy riding.

davei1980

My experience is consistent with yours - not a good front tire and tons of self steer on pavement (I also commute on this setup so very important)

My plan is exactly that - wear out the rear, rotate, and put the new tire in front. I don't love mismatched tires but I also don't love giving up on $70+ tires. In fact, I just got an 8mm tear in the front. I was really tempted to not patch it and replace it but my cheapness won out and the patch is holding just fine.

Thanks for the suggestions on my next tire!

prj71

Thats your biggest problem. Get the correct tool for the job if you want to ride MTB trails.

Kapusta

OMG, I thought you were serious at first

davei1980

LOL thanks for the suggestion. I'll let you take it for a spin sometime!! ;-)

I assure you my bike is not holding me back :-)

Check this out - really cool read from a hardcore trail guy who rides the spaceframe version of my Plus LWB:

Jones Bikes Blog ? The continuing story of Aquaholic

davei1980

LOL - the sentiment is pervasive. Some guy stopped me at the top of the hill I ride up and down everyday. The descent is quite technical and very rocky. He was like, "dude, you're NOT gonna make it down THAT with that rigid frame and adventure bars"

I wonder what he said 25 years ago when those same trails were being cut in by dudes on 26" rigid bikes with inner tubes and rim brakes? Not saying full squish bikes don't have their place in the world but man....

prj71

That bike doesn't interest me.

The guy in the Blog appears rather skilled. He could probably ride anything on any bike. For the average rider...that is the wrong tool for the job.

davei1980

I disagree with your assessment but that's cool, you don't have to ride what you dislike. Good thing Jeff's company is a tiny little manufacturer in middle of nowhere Oregon so his products are very easy to avoid.

And you're right, the blogger I referenced is a very good rider, it's very clear he can choose to ride any bike available and he chose the Ti spaceframe version of the Plus LWB precisely for the type of riding pictured in the linked site.

Kapusta

Some people just can't fathom choosing to ride a rigid bike on trails. I used to love riding my old Karate Monkey rigid with 2.3 - 2.5" tires. Plus tires would have made it even better. My back can't take the standard sizes tires much anymore, but plus tires might make it doable. I keep eying the newer rigid 27.5+ Karate Monkeys.

In any event, this is all a moot point, because I don't think it has anything to do with your pedal strikes.

davei1980

KM = badass! a lot of guys ride those with Jones H bars.... It has a higher BB than my bike which is nice but the low slung BB is not a deal breaker and not any lower than the newer geo Long/Low/Slack enduro bikes out there now.

FYI running 29x3.0" tires at as low as 6 PSI. Takes up the trail chatter beautifully!