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how do u define the perfect wheelset.

Old 07-30-20, 09:26 AM
  #26  
cyccommute 
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Originally Posted by Pop N Wood
than certainly this rotor is on backwards
Hum. Hadn't thought of it. The green one is more aesthetically pleasing however. I might have to turn it around. Not really an OCD kind of person. This is what I tell people in my wheel building classes about OCD mechanics

Hold the hub in the center of the rim with the spokes hanging down. If you are OCD or if you have bicycle mechanic friends and want to avoid ridicule, selection of the first spoke is (marginally) important. OCD mechanics want to have the label of the hub visible through the valve stem hole of the rim. To accomplish this, find the label on the hub before adding spokes. Place one spoke directly in front of the label and count 4 spokes holes (i.e. 2 spokes) to the right of the label (Note to Stuart: Yes, right is correct. Quit changing it, you knob!) Select this spoke (which from now on will be referred to as the No.1 spoke) and put it through the first hole to the left of the valve hole. Attach its nipple a couple of turns.
But if I want to drive those mechanics crazy, I'll put the label 180° away from the valve hole
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Old 07-30-20, 09:30 AM
  #27  
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Perfect wheelset?

Centered, round and true. & has remained so for 40 years..









Last edited by fietsbob; 07-30-20 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 07-30-20, 09:31 AM
  #28  
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Here is my most recent perfect wheel purchase, the real black velvet of wheels. Velocity no BS rim, 36 DT swiss straight gauge spokes, and some cheap but smooth running hub that I've never heard of for only $99 new. Replacing a hand built Velocity Aeroheat with double butted DT swiss spokes that got dented when my ebike didn't rotate over a curb like I thought it would.

Cost is always a factor.

https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...s.php?id=84337

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Old 07-30-20, 09:36 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
Hum. Hadn't thought of it.
I wasn't looking at the labels but rather the direction of the radials (or whatever they are called) on the rotor itself. I think structurally you want them pointing into the direction of rotation like a sawblade. Only reason I notice is it always seems backwards to me.
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Old 07-30-20, 09:38 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by thehammerdog

back at ya. slainte!
Okay, we agree on something: That's my fave type of glass for whisky.

As for the wheels: good everyday wheels are built 32h, 3x, with standard double-butted spokes from DT Swiss or Wheelsmith or Sapim. Brass Nipples. Good alloy rims of your choice - Velocity Aileron, H+Son The Hydra, etc. DT Swiss 350 hubs are smooth, light enough, sturdy, and can be easily serviced (though it might never be necessary). Get the wheels built by a good shop and you'll be set for tens of thousands of miles. Cost should be about $800 if you have 'em built by a good local shop, or less if you buy them from a place like Excel Sports.

Last edited by Koyote; 07-30-20 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 07-30-20, 09:41 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by canklecat
After watching a video of a complete overhaul of a DT Swiss hub and seeing the tools and techniques needed to do it right, I think I'll stick with Shimano or similar loose bearing hubs now, unless the LBS can overhaul the DT Swiss hubs without it costing a fortune.
You must have gotten DT Swiss hubs confused with another brand; I believe they can be dismantled and serviced with only your two hands - no tools required.
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Old 07-30-20, 09:54 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Koyote
Okay, we agree on something: That's my fave type of glass for whisky.

As for the wheels: good everyday wheels are built 32h, 3x, with standard double-butted spokes from DT Swiss or Wheelsmith or Sapim. Brass Nipples. Good alloy rims of your choice - Velocity Aileron, H+Son The Hydra, etc. DT Swiss 350 hubs are smooth, light enough, sturdy, and can be easily serviced (though it might never be necessary). Get the wheels built by a good shop and you'll be set for tens of thousands of miles. Cost should be about $800 if you have 'em built by a good local shop, or less if you buy them from a place like Excel Sports.
not only should it be ur favorite it is in all actuality the only glass for sipping a wee dram of scotch whiskey.

now my new wheelset has radial front spokes not sure what or why of that is it for looks performance or what.
happy with new wheelset...past stuff was stiff hard light deep rims....never gave a thought to how they would change ride experience.

nice smooth styling

silly good

can u say peaty yummiest

just good no joke.
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Old 07-30-20, 09:56 AM
  #33  
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Now you're just trying to make me jealous.
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Old 07-30-20, 11:15 AM
  #34  
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The Island of Islay . Scottish Inner Hebrides distilleries , was devoid of tasting rooms , unlike Bushmills in Northern Ireland..
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Old 07-30-20, 10:34 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Koyote
You must have gotten DT Swiss hubs confused with another brand; I believe they can be dismantled and serviced with only your two hands - no tools required.
The DT Swiss freehub can be popped off with hands or minimal tools (bench vise with soft jaw insert). But the total takedown and service process is much more involved and requires tools to remove the bearing cartridges without damage and a bearing press after servicing to reinsert the cartridges. The "Free To Cycle" YouTube channel shows using a punch and hammer to tap out the cartridges and makeshift tool to hammer the cartridges back in, but the Megear Bike Shop channel shows a safer method using a press that pushes out the cartridge evenly. The Cycling Man channel shows a hybrid method, punching out the old cartridges and using a press to insert new cartridges.

Normally I would have assumed sealed cartridge bearing hubs, headset, etc., could go a lifetime without servicing. But I discovered a few months ago with my 1993 Trek 5900 with Chris King headset, ain't so. Best I can figure the previous owner, who used it as a time trial/tri-bike, sweated and dribbled electrolyte drinks into the stem for years. Eventually the corrosion caused the headset to asplode. The cartridges literally came apart when I punched out the headset. There was a crust like old limescale inside the headset and head tube. Fortunately King will overhaul it for a nominal charge, which is great. It's a titanium headset and while that's not superior to their current headset, it'll be nice to retain the original equipment.

I tried the quickie fix with the older style DT Swiss 240s hub on my 10 year old Bontrager Race Lite Aero wheelset. But it didn't fix the slight grinding. I don't want to risk damaging the hub and I don't want to mess with a complete overhaul of every cartridge, if I can find a shop that will do it for a reasonable charge.

While I like the idea of sealed cartridge bearings, in actual practice loose bearings with cups and cones are simpler in terms of tools. The tricky bit is finding the correct cones if those are pitted, and snugging up the final fit without leaving any slack or overtightening. But the tools are simpler. I suppose it could be just as tricky if it were necessary to replace races, which would need to be pressed or punched out, but so far I've never seen a damaged race, while I have seen many pitted cones, at least on Shimano's low end to midrange hubs. So far I haven't seen problems with their Shimano 600 and better systems.
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Old 07-31-20, 06:42 AM
  #36  
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I have 3 set of wheels with Velocity Dyad rims, DT Swiss double butted spokes and 1 has Deore LX, 1 has 105 5900, and 1 has 105 m7000 hubs.


Last edited by bwilli88; 07-31-20 at 07:13 AM.
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Old 07-31-20, 06:57 AM
  #37  
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canklecat : I apologize for not being clearer and more complete in my response, and I thank you for correcting me. Yes, some tools are required for bearing replacement on DTS hubs - but that will be true of most (perhaps all?) sealed cartridge bearing hubs. What I meant (and I should have been clear) is that a ride-ending freehub failure can be handled in the field without tools, as the star ratchet can be replaced with bare hands. (I don't carry a spare, but I have read about mtb riders who carry them on rides in case of failure.) I don't know of any hubs that allow an easy field replacement of bearings, and I don't know why anyone would ever even need to do that.

My oldest set of sealed bearings hubs are 12+ years old and have never needed service, so I regard them as virtually maintenance-free. While they may need bearing replacement someday, it's conceivable that I will never have to open them up. But who knows?

I do agree with you about old school cup & cone hubs: they are easily serviced with an inexpensive set of cone wrenches. As an added benefit, I have found that even my cheapest, nastiest, no-name Taiwanese hubs are incredibly smooth as long as they get an occasional overhaul with fresh grade 25 hubs and a big load of Phil Wood grease. However, I don't enjoy servicing them, and so I prefer sealed cartridge bearings.
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Old 07-31-20, 07:03 AM
  #38  
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That's exactly what I have. Just my personal opinion for the way I ride. Mounted on my Guru Sidero and CAAD 12. Mavic Ksyrium Elite UST which comes with Mavic Yksion tires at under $500 for a set.
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Old 07-31-20, 07:22 AM
  #39  
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Can't speak to longevity, since I only have a few hundred miles on them, but my new wheels def checked all the boxes for me. They are smooth, fast and stiff (no rotor rub when out of the saddle that I get with the stock wheelset). Running them with GP5000s and latex tubes, great combo.

FFWD F3ADs, 30mm alloys, 19mm internal, DT350 hubs, aero spokes, brass nipples, 1560g, 3 year warranty, $450 on sale. Perfect balance for me of size, weight, durability and value.

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Old 08-03-20, 09:47 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Wileyrat
I don't need the best and or lightest, but I do want a wheelset that doesn't give me any issues I need to think about. My Hed Ardennes Plus LT's do that very well.
I have Mavic Kysrium elites on two bikes. They are I'm sure, not the lightest or fastest, but then, neither am I. What I like about them is: between the two bikes, I've bong bettre than 40,000 miles on them. And they virrtually never go out or round, and I've never brokent a spoke, they're very strong
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Old 08-04-20, 10:56 AM
  #41  
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I see some weights posted.

My question is: Does wheelset weight include the add-ons like cassette, rotors, and/or skewers/thru-axles, or is it the naked wheels?
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Old 08-04-20, 11:34 AM
  #42  
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I have no grail wheels, but I would like to use a 20 year rule. And want them to be light enough that I don’t notice them. Around 1800 grams, give or take some, seems to be a nice weight.

I recently retired a set of wheels (MA40-Superbe Pro) I built in 1990. They still spin great and are definitely true enough. I retired them because I upgraded to a cassette. The new wheels (TB14-DA7700) feel the same to me. Running Rubino Pro on both.

Hopefully the new wheels will be just as good 20 years from now, for whoever is using them.

John
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Old 08-04-20, 11:38 AM
  #43  
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this thread should be entitlted:
"what's the perfect UTILITARIAN wheelset"
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Old 08-04-20, 12:29 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Bill in VA
My question is: Does wheelset weight include the add-ons like cassette, rotors, and/or skewers/thru-axles, or is it the naked wheels?
Naked wheels.

Think about it: if wheel weights included all of those extras, they would be meaningless since different cassettes, tires, and such have different weights.
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Old 08-04-20, 04:08 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Koyote
Naked wheels.

Think about it: if wheel weights included all of those extras, they would be meaningless since different cassettes, tires, and such have different weights.
I figured that was the case, but wanted to verify. Thanks for the clarification.
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Old 08-04-20, 04:45 PM
  #46  
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Round, True, Smooth Bearings, Tires that hold air, Rim surface suitable for brake pads or a True rotor.
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Old 08-04-20, 05:10 PM
  #47  
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I thought these were great.. I have all silver..
.
but then they changed the hub.
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Old 08-04-20, 08:08 PM
  #48  
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My first grail wheels were Campy Tipo HF hubs and Weinmann concave 27" rims. They went 34 years on roads, canal trails, and unimproved roads without a broken spoke or needing a truing. That was my benchmark.

I now have a new(ish) set of Bill Mould wheels, silver Shimano 105 5800 11 speed hubs (using a 10 speed Ultegra cassette), silver MSW Velocity Dyad (de-labeled) rims, and Sapim force spokes with silver locking brass nipples, using VeloPlugs instead of rim tape. So far a very worthy successor. I had specced for light touring, dirt roads and towpaths, and to be swappable with the OEM wheels. That goal was also met. Swappable with no adjustments needed.
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Old 08-05-20, 12:15 AM
  #49  
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DeFaileurs?? LOL hahahaha
Today I rode my 73 lb heavyweight tour bike with SA XL-FDD and XL-RD5w. 133.66 MILES in 12Hr15 clock time, exactly double my age. LOL. Broke my PB by about 7 miles. Still wasn't completely tired. First 59 miles I was at 16.08 avg, ended at 14.17. I did see fit to lighten the bike for once, about 7 lbs. Granite lock, 1 spare tube, a raincoat, BB / Rohloff tools and a handfull of sockets and several wrenches. Really helped going up the only steep 250 foot hill. LOL.
=== Dyad rims, WH 2.3/ 2.0 spokes with DT pro lock nipples. Front hub has 2 tours at 120 lbs, near 25,000 miles now. SMP 36 mm tires.
My 203 TRP cable disc Rohloff14 is my perfect hill climber compromise. LOL

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Old 08-06-20, 10:25 AM
  #50  
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s p i n e r g y
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