Derailleur/Hanger Question
#1
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Derailleur/Hanger Question
Please forgive me in advance for my lack of knowledge; I am very new to cycling.
Is it possible to replace this bent direct-mount derailleur hanger with one that mounts to the wheel bolt? I already wanted a new cassette and derailleur anyway, and it seems it might be easier to just lop this one off to get it out of the way (instead of trying to straighten it) and add a new one that fastens to either the inside or the outside of the wheel mount, but I know very little about these things and tend not to “internet” very well. Thank you so much! Also, I wanted to include a few photos of it but apparently I haven’t posted here enough to do that yet.
Is it possible to replace this bent direct-mount derailleur hanger with one that mounts to the wheel bolt? I already wanted a new cassette and derailleur anyway, and it seems it might be easier to just lop this one off to get it out of the way (instead of trying to straighten it) and add a new one that fastens to either the inside or the outside of the wheel mount, but I know very little about these things and tend not to “internet” very well. Thank you so much! Also, I wanted to include a few photos of it but apparently I haven’t posted here enough to do that yet.
#2
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Probably, ask the dealer you bought the bike from. ? there are literally hundreds of different replaceable derailleur hangers ..
#3
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#4
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Raleigh USA is a brand distributed thru Seattle Bike Supply, POE Tacoma.
https://www.raleighusa.com/
https://www.raleighusa.com/contact-us
https://www.raleighusa.com/
https://www.raleighusa.com/contact-us
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I think that you are asking about a "claw mount" derailleur, which tend to be at the lower price-quality end of the spectrum. . You can also obtain a claw adapter for a standard derailleur, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N000V9A/ref=dp_cerb_1 Both types will require enough length on the axle to accommodate them and can be troublesome when installing the wheel.
I would suggest thinking hard about "lopping off" your current hanger, as it likely can be straightened and cutting it off is final.
I would suggest thinking hard about "lopping off" your current hanger, as it likely can be straightened and cutting it off is final.
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Okay, a claw mount derailleur! Thank you! Any ideas as to how to go about finding one that is compatible with my bike? The derailleur that was on it is a vintage Suntour GT Mid-cage derailleur. And would a new cassette dictate or influence what sort of derailleur I will need? My current one has six cogs, and I would love to upgrade to something with eight.
#7
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Those are either Part of a Budget Rear Derailleur, Or a separate piece you screw the mounting bolt of some other derailleur into..
Any old Bike shop should have the latter
Any old Bike shop should have the latter
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Okay, a claw mount derailleur! Thank you! Any ideas as to how to go about finding one that is compatible with my bike? The derailleur that was on it is a vintage Suntour GT Mid-cage derailleur. And would a new cassette dictate or influence what sort of derailleur I will need? My current one has six cogs, and I would love to upgrade to something with eight.
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#12
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whole bunch of parts to buy (@ retail) between what you have and what you want..
8 speed bikes are relatively in expensive now that the push is for 10 &11 speed stuff on the cutting edge..
8 speed bikes are relatively in expensive now that the push is for 10 &11 speed stuff on the cutting edge..
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Absent a bike DIY or CO-OP one source for cheap apparently quality wheels is https://www.modernbike.com/quality-w...tory-all-black
$80 for a rear wheel, $40 or so for a 9-10spd RD, $50 for a cassette and if flat bar a twist grip control for under $50. Then if the bike is steel spreading the rear triangle is a hassle
but possible. In theory spreading changes the angles on the dropouts to slightly splayed and there are tools to fix that as well, or a bike shop might do the spreading for a relatively
nominal fee. That should give you an idea of the $ involved. Add in a $20 chain. The chainwheels per se don't care at all about whether the chain is 5spd or 11 spd, but spacing of
5spd dual chainwheels is different than 11spd dual chainwheels with in between speeds varying. With new cables and housings, new brake pads you are looking at $250 or so to
upgrade, assuming you do all the work yourself. Should give you some idea whether it is worth it to you. Does not factor in tool cost or availability, co-op could help there.
Here ya go: https://sopobikes.org
FWIW I upgraded a Peugeot PX10 frame from 5sp freewheel to 9spd cassette without doing much in the way of spreading the rear triangle back in the late'70s and apart from
some grunt work putting the wheel in (sit on ground, R foot pushing on L chain stay, R arm pulling R chain stay and L arm manipulating wheel into place) it rode fine for the
next 20yrs. But how often do you pull the rear wheel off a bike?
$80 for a rear wheel, $40 or so for a 9-10spd RD, $50 for a cassette and if flat bar a twist grip control for under $50. Then if the bike is steel spreading the rear triangle is a hassle
but possible. In theory spreading changes the angles on the dropouts to slightly splayed and there are tools to fix that as well, or a bike shop might do the spreading for a relatively
nominal fee. That should give you an idea of the $ involved. Add in a $20 chain. The chainwheels per se don't care at all about whether the chain is 5spd or 11 spd, but spacing of
5spd dual chainwheels is different than 11spd dual chainwheels with in between speeds varying. With new cables and housings, new brake pads you are looking at $250 or so to
upgrade, assuming you do all the work yourself. Should give you some idea whether it is worth it to you. Does not factor in tool cost or availability, co-op could help there.
Here ya go: https://sopobikes.org
FWIW I upgraded a Peugeot PX10 frame from 5sp freewheel to 9spd cassette without doing much in the way of spreading the rear triangle back in the late'70s and apart from
some grunt work putting the wheel in (sit on ground, R foot pushing on L chain stay, R arm pulling R chain stay and L arm manipulating wheel into place) it rode fine for the
next 20yrs. But how often do you pull the rear wheel off a bike?
Last edited by sch; 08-19-20 at 02:04 PM.
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#14
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Wholesalers to Bike shops like J&B, have the same wheel assembly machines as the bike factories.
& they build wit Wholesale cost parts ... almost as Cheap as OEM bulk cost.
so the wheel is handed to you with no extra shipping, over the counter...
Modern bike is a retailer , maybe using a similar scheme.. wholesaled to them , then selling to you..
& they build wit Wholesale cost parts ... almost as Cheap as OEM bulk cost.
so the wheel is handed to you with no extra shipping, over the counter...
Modern bike is a retailer , maybe using a similar scheme.. wholesaled to them , then selling to you..
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I was surprised at the price considering the components listed, expected innominata chinese source, but lo Modern is in Iowa....
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A claw-type mount should only be a last resort.
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+1 this. A 1980s frame is unlikely to have a replaceable derailleur hanger. If it is a steel dropout, straightening it is easy. The threads may be amaged by the bending and can usually be chased back into useable condition with a 10mm x 1mm tap. Even if the threads are damaged beyond redemption, a "dropout saver" insert can be used.
A claw-type mount should only be a last resort.
A claw-type mount should only be a last resort.
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An 80's Raleigh Wyoming will have a hanger integral with the dropout. Go to you local fastener store and buy a longish metric M10 X 1.0 bolt. Thread it into the hole to keep the shape and threads. Slip a piece of pipe over the bolt and bend to "eyeball" straightness. It's probably a 6 speed friction shifter so eyeball is usually "close enough". If need be take it to a shop for a final hanger alignment.
Or use the RJ method.
Or use the RJ method.