cpingenot

I have a Pletscher double leg kickstand that has been installed on a regular commuting bike for about 18 months. It got out of alignment, and I was trying to remove it to re-install it. Unfortunately I managed to round the allen key hole at the top of the bolt (!) and ended up having to drill out the head to remove it.

Now I can't get the end of the bolt out of the kickstand body. I think that it's galled (chemically corroded) because the bolt is steel and the body is aluminum. grrr.

Has anyone had a problem with this? I've tried copious amounts of PB blaster, heating the bolt with a torch, putting the body of the stand in a vise and using visegrips on the bolt, all to no avail.

I'd like to reinstall the damn thing, but have to get the bolt out, and am not inclined to buy a new one if the dissimilar metals are going to be a problem again..

Chris_in_Miami

I haven't experienced that exact issue, but dissimilar metals can get along just fine if they're handled properly (i.e., by coating the bolt's threads with anti-sieze compound.) Similarly, a coating of grease on an alloy seatpost will keep it from getting stuck inside a steel seat tube.

Back to the topic at hand - heating the bolt will cause it to expand, so you should try to cool it instead (or carefully heat the top of the kickstand.) I'd put the entire thing in the freezer for a few hours, then clamp the bolt in the vise and apply some heat to the stand. Work fast though, the heat will transfer to the bolt - hopefully the mass of the vise will slow that down. Good luck!

Rob_E

I had this exact issue. Dremel, hacksaw, and drill finally freed the kickstand from the bike, but then the ruined bolt had to be removed. I did eventually get it off with locking pliers and a lot of force. I like the freezing idea, but never thought of that. I just kept trying different ways to keep the kickstand in place (I had no bench-mounted vice) and longer-armed pliers to get more torque. Eventually it came free. Then I replaced the destroyed top plate with a newer version that is cupped to hold the chainstays a little more securely.

lhendrick

Easy Out. https://www.amazon.com/piece-Easy-Scr.../dp/B0002UJNWE

Drill a hole into bolt, screw in the easy out extractor, unscrew the whole mess. Usually works. Any auto mechanic can do it for you if you are all thumbs.

cpingenot

I have an easyout, and got a new impact driver for Xmas that might be useful, but I'm worried that the damn thing is in so tight that even that won't do it. I'll apply a bit more of Rob E's approach, and then will try that- am just worried that if that doesn't work I won't have anything left to grab onto. At a certain point I'll just bag it and buy a new kickstand, as the hourly rate of frustration starts to exceed the cost of a new one. Thanks for the advice, and if I ever get it out, I'll make sure to use anti-seize on the threads instead of loctite.

cpingenot

May I ask which of the aftermarket top plates you got? (since I'm going to need one)

lhendrick

Yes to the easy out, no to the impact. Maybe to penetrating oil and a little heat. Emphasize " a little heat"

Rob_E

The Deluxe Top Plate from here.

FrenchFit 

If the head is gone: My success has been good with a centerpunch, a couple of sharp hits and the body of the bolt will blast out of the hole. With the remaining bolt & body, vice grips. (Easy out, I've not had great luck with bike bolts.)

The Pletcher-Edges have a serious problem in the design of the tightening bolt. My, so-called, solution has been to torque them to a reasonable tightness and then use thick zip ties around the bolt and wraped around the downtube-bottom bracket to lock them into position. The zip ties seems to provide enough flex-support while keeping the unit locked into position. Does it look like crap? On a dark colored frame it's not noticeable, especially on a touring bike with lots of junk hanging on it. On a 'go fast' bike, it may look like crap but why would you use a kickstand at all on a sleek bike? Problem solved.