New Specialized Rockhopper Comp 1x...what would u upgrade and why?
09-06-19, 09:10 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
New Specialized Rockhopper Comp 1x...what would u upgrade and why?
I am an tinkerer and I like modding things but for a good reason. I just got a 2020 Rockhopper Comp 1x bike and I LOVE the thing. I am just getting back into mountain biking so the trails I ride would be considered easy right now. Getting my stamina up and getting used to the handling and gears and the way the bike rides. Its got Shimano Hydraulic brakes, a Suntour XCM shock, Microshift Advent 1x9 drivetrain, Stout cranks, Specialized basic pedals, Stout neck and bars and Specialized grips. So far I really like the bike. My thoughts are what would make the bike better? And would I notice the difference on my trails? And would it increase the maintenance or decrease reliability? I am used to the car world and some things are lighter and faster but need more maintenance.
Shock:
Reviews said the Suntour shock isn't the best..is there a good easy swap that improves performance and is as reliable and bulletproof? Suntour has an upgrade program to their more expensive units...The Rockhopper Pro uses the Rockshox Recon RL..anything else and again..will I notice it?
Crankset:
Stout Crankset, The Pro uses Stout Pro...or should I look into something lighter like Raceface? Again...Will I notice?
The brakes and drivetrain I really like and cant see it improving much...The shifting is accurate and precise and the brakes stop on a dime.
For now I am riding it and learning. Just wondering where I should look for the first upgrade.
Shock:
Reviews said the Suntour shock isn't the best..is there a good easy swap that improves performance and is as reliable and bulletproof? Suntour has an upgrade program to their more expensive units...The Rockhopper Pro uses the Rockshox Recon RL..anything else and again..will I notice it?
Crankset:
Stout Crankset, The Pro uses Stout Pro...or should I look into something lighter like Raceface? Again...Will I notice?
The brakes and drivetrain I really like and cant see it improving much...The shifting is accurate and precise and the brakes stop on a dime.
For now I am riding it and learning. Just wondering where I should look for the first upgrade.
09-08-19, 12:09 PM
#2
Full Member
The shock will eventually wear out. Depends on the miles and your abuse level. It should be the first upgrade but you should wait until you realize that it is holding you back!
Fork 1st.
Fork 1st.
09-08-19, 02:14 PM
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I wouldn’t change anything except maybe add a dropper post. If you decide you really don’t like a part or it breaks or wears out, that’s when to change. Every piece on it can be replaced with something a little more durable or lighter at higher and higher prices.
The fork isn’t the bottom of the barrel. It’s got damping. Service parts and different stiffness springs are available.
The best way to find out if you would notice the difference is to go test ride a $3000 bike and see what about it you like better. You will probably notice the suspension and brakes. I bet you don’t notice the shifting or the cranks.
Weirdly enough I can find your bike for sale but not on the Specialized website. I wonder what gives?
The fork isn’t the bottom of the barrel. It’s got damping. Service parts and different stiffness springs are available.
The best way to find out if you would notice the difference is to go test ride a $3000 bike and see what about it you like better. You will probably notice the suspension and brakes. I bet you don’t notice the shifting or the cranks.
Weirdly enough I can find your bike for sale but not on the Specialized website. I wonder what gives?
Last edited by Darth Lefty; 09-08-19 at 02:20 PM.
09-08-19, 04:36 PM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yeah I know...its been out for a little while but not on the site. You can google it, and its for sale in lots of places, there is an actual Specialized store locally and I test rode it there. Just not on the site. Maybe they still have a lot of 2019s and they dont wanna have the 2020 officially out there? The 2020 is cheaper and better spec'd.
09-12-19, 09:17 AM
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1st...The reviews are correct. I would ditch that junk Suntour shock in favor of a Rockshox or Fox Shock. A $300-$500 model from either of those brands will be levels above the Suntour.
2nd...Carbon Bars and Carbon Seat Post or as suggested a dropper post.
3rd...Upgrade the wheelset...aluminum or carbon with a hub that has more engagement points and will more than likely also be lighter.
https://www.speedgearbike.com/
The rest of the components just replace as they wear.
2nd...Carbon Bars and Carbon Seat Post or as suggested a dropper post.
3rd...Upgrade the wheelset...aluminum or carbon with a hub that has more engagement points and will more than likely also be lighter.
https://www.speedgearbike.com/
The rest of the components just replace as they wear.
09-12-19, 01:43 PM
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If you are riding anything technically challenging, or just going downhill somewhat fast, a dropper is worth every penny and is likely transferable to your next bike. Check out PNW.
The other first thing I would do is look at the tires. What is on there now?
I would not mess with the fork until it starts crapping out, and which point look for a better fork or you might be looking at a better bike by then. The fork will make a big difference, but it will cost some money.
I would only mess with cockpit stuff (saddle, bars, stem) if it is for fit reasons. Otherwise leave it.
I would leave the drivetrain, brakes, wheels alone.
Be careful about spending too much on this bike. The most expensive way to get a great bike is to start off with an good bike and upgrade everything. If you are going to spend money on it, try to focus on things that you can be pretty sure you will use on your next bike: i.e., saddle, pedals, dropper post.
The other first thing I would do is look at the tires. What is on there now?
I would not mess with the fork until it starts crapping out, and which point look for a better fork or you might be looking at a better bike by then. The fork will make a big difference, but it will cost some money.
I would only mess with cockpit stuff (saddle, bars, stem) if it is for fit reasons. Otherwise leave it.
I would leave the drivetrain, brakes, wheels alone.
Be careful about spending too much on this bike. The most expensive way to get a great bike is to start off with an good bike and upgrade everything. If you are going to spend money on it, try to focus on things that you can be pretty sure you will use on your next bike: i.e., saddle, pedals, dropper post.
09-12-19, 02:10 PM
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https://www.specialized.com/us/en/me...=239573-154446
Says 2 x 9
I'd ride the bike and save for a new one with thru axles.
Says 2 x 9
I'd ride the bike and save for a new one with thru axles.
09-12-19, 07:50 PM
#8
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https://www.specialized.com/us/en/me...=239573-154446
Says 2 x 9
I'd ride the bike and save for a new one with thru axles.
Says 2 x 9
I'd ride the bike and save for a new one with thru axles.
https://www.wheelworld.com/product/s...x-364152-1.htm
Thats my bike...
If you are riding anything technically challenging, or just going downhill somewhat fast, a dropper is worth every penny and is likely transferable to your next bike. Check out PNW.
The other first thing I would do is look at the tires. What is on there now?
I would not mess with the fork until it starts crapping out, and which point look for a better fork or you might be looking at a better bike by then. The fork will make a big difference, but it will cost some money.
I would only mess with cockpit stuff (saddle, bars, stem) if it is for fit reasons. Otherwise leave it.
I would leave the drivetrain, brakes, wheels alone.
Be careful about spending too much on this bike. The most expensive way to get a great bike is to start off with an good bike and upgrade everything. If you are going to spend money on it, try to focus on things that you can be pretty sure you will use on your next bike: i.e., saddle, pedals, dropper post.
The other first thing I would do is look at the tires. What is on there now?
I would not mess with the fork until it starts crapping out, and which point look for a better fork or you might be looking at a better bike by then. The fork will make a big difference, but it will cost some money.
I would only mess with cockpit stuff (saddle, bars, stem) if it is for fit reasons. Otherwise leave it.
I would leave the drivetrain, brakes, wheels alone.
Be careful about spending too much on this bike. The most expensive way to get a great bike is to start off with an good bike and upgrade everything. If you are going to spend money on it, try to focus on things that you can be pretty sure you will use on your next bike: i.e., saddle, pedals, dropper post.
09-13-19, 01:42 PM
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Looking a little more closely at this bike... I really like it for the money, but some things about it will be hard to upgrade.
The wheel hubs and the fork ends and dropouts are quick-release, and non Boost spaced. Most nicer bikes now use thru axles and Boost spacing (which is a little wider for fatter tires). Some of this can be accommodated with conversions at the wheel hubs.
Because you don't have boost spacing at the rear, an 11-speed or 12-speed conversion might be tough. The bigger cogs are dished inward and they may cause the chain to rub on the tires. But this is more likely with fatter tires than the ones that came on your bike. Some combinations might work.
Upgrading the fork any significant amount almost requires a thru-axle front hub. Only the hybrid or bottom-lineup forks from RS have QR axles. I don't know about Fox, haven't looked. But those are not going to be a whole lot better than what you have.
The brakes at least are completely standard, you can go as good as you like there. So are tires, saddle, grips, pedals, and so on.
The wheel hubs and the fork ends and dropouts are quick-release, and non Boost spaced. Most nicer bikes now use thru axles and Boost spacing (which is a little wider for fatter tires). Some of this can be accommodated with conversions at the wheel hubs.
Because you don't have boost spacing at the rear, an 11-speed or 12-speed conversion might be tough. The bigger cogs are dished inward and they may cause the chain to rub on the tires. But this is more likely with fatter tires than the ones that came on your bike. Some combinations might work.
Upgrading the fork any significant amount almost requires a thru-axle front hub. Only the hybrid or bottom-lineup forks from RS have QR axles. I don't know about Fox, haven't looked. But those are not going to be a whole lot better than what you have.
The brakes at least are completely standard, you can go as good as you like there. So are tires, saddle, grips, pedals, and so on.
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09-13-19, 04:22 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
Looking a little more closely at this bike... I really like it for the money, but some things about it will be hard to upgrade.
The wheel hubs and the fork ends and dropouts are quick-release, and non Boost spaced. Most nicer bikes now use thru axles and Boost spacing (which is a little wider for fatter tires). Some of this can be accommodated with conversions at the wheel hubs.
Because you don't have boost spacing at the rear, an 11-speed or 12-speed conversion might be tough. The bigger cogs are dished inward and they may cause the chain to rub on the tires. But this is more likely with fatter tires than the ones that came on your bike. Some combinations might work.
Upgrading the fork any significant amount almost requires a thru-axle front hub. Only the hybrid or bottom-lineup forks from RS have QR axles. I don't know about Fox, haven't looked. But those are not going to be a whole lot better than what you have.
The brakes at least are completely standard, you can go as good as you like there. So are tires, saddle, grips, pedals, and so on.
The wheel hubs and the fork ends and dropouts are quick-release, and non Boost spaced. Most nicer bikes now use thru axles and Boost spacing (which is a little wider for fatter tires). Some of this can be accommodated with conversions at the wheel hubs.
Because you don't have boost spacing at the rear, an 11-speed or 12-speed conversion might be tough. The bigger cogs are dished inward and they may cause the chain to rub on the tires. But this is more likely with fatter tires than the ones that came on your bike. Some combinations might work.
Upgrading the fork any significant amount almost requires a thru-axle front hub. Only the hybrid or bottom-lineup forks from RS have QR axles. I don't know about Fox, haven't looked. But those are not going to be a whole lot better than what you have.
The brakes at least are completely standard, you can go as good as you like there. So are tires, saddle, grips, pedals, and so on.
