Fixed gear cog on a Freewheel Hub
#1
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Fixed gear cog on a Freewheel Hub
What are your experiences on riding with a fixed cog rather than a singlespeed freewheel on a freewheel rim?
I know there are specific rims with two sets of opposite threads for fixed cogs, but I only have the normal FW hub. I have an old BB lock ring that fits over the hub after the cog. Will this hold?
I'm only using this on a junky vintage frame bike I have so I dont mind if theres a chance of it just stripping the threads on the hub or anything.
Thanks.
I know there are specific rims with two sets of opposite threads for fixed cogs, but I only have the normal FW hub. I have an old BB lock ring that fits over the hub after the cog. Will this hold?
I'm only using this on a junky vintage frame bike I have so I dont mind if theres a chance of it just stripping the threads on the hub or anything.
Thanks.
#2
Senior Member
What are your experiences on riding with a fixed cog rather than a singlespeed freewheel on a freewheel rim?
I know there are specific rims with two sets of opposite threads for fixed cogs, but I only have the normal FW hub. I have an old BB lock ring that fits over the hub after the cog. Will this hold?
I'm only using this on a junky vintage frame bike I have so I dont mind if theres a chance of it just stripping the threads on the hub or anything.
Thanks.
I know there are specific rims with two sets of opposite threads for fixed cogs, but I only have the normal FW hub. I have an old BB lock ring that fits over the hub after the cog. Will this hold?
I'm only using this on a junky vintage frame bike I have so I dont mind if theres a chance of it just stripping the threads on the hub or anything.
Thanks.
I highly recommend getting the appropriate hub, or using a freewheel cog. If you insist, I'd recommend taking considerable measures to hold everything in place:
1-Use red locktite on the threads, and tighten the cog down as hard as you can by stomping on the pedals with brakes applied.
2-Use red locktite on the threads, and tighten a bottom bracket lockring as hard as you can against the fixed cog, using it as a jamnut to grab more threads more aggressively.
And definitely keep both brakes installed.
#3
Senior Member
I rode a beater with an inexpensive stamped suicide hub for many years with a fixed cog installed. I did use red Loktite, but didn't bother with a secondary nut.
The only time the fixed cog ever loosened was a day when I deliberately, actively worked on skids. Track standing or braking by back pressure on the pedals had no ill affect on the installation. Keep both brakes installed and you'll be fine unless you're bent on destroyimg a rear tire.
The only time the fixed cog ever loosened was a day when I deliberately, actively worked on skids. Track standing or braking by back pressure on the pedals had no ill affect on the installation. Keep both brakes installed and you'll be fine unless you're bent on destroyimg a rear tire.
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Multi Speed
I was 25 miles into a 30 mile ride this weekend. The free wheel locked up. It was like riding a multispeed fixie for the last 5 miles of the ride. I didn't really care for the experience. When I got home I was able remove the cassette without using the chain whip tool. Not sure what broke but it is possible to lock a hub!
#6
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Mechanical issues aside, riding fixed gear is a completely different experience from riding a bike with a freewheel.
#7
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Get a proper hub, DO NOT USE LOCTITE or other jenky methods. Do it right, ALWAYS DO IT RIGHT! If you really want to ride fixed there are many many many different fixed gear hub options. It is a lot of fun but not worth doing improperly and certainly there is nothing wrong with using a freewheel.
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I started my fix gear riding on a geared hub and a BB lockring. Now, in those days, nobody did skip stops. Trashing tubulars gets expensive fast! Never had a issue (except first ride. I forgot, tried to coast and got rocketed into the air by the upcoming pedal. Landed unceremoniously on the road from 20 mph; little speed at impact so no road rash, just bruises and a ripped up internally left leg. That hurt! The lock ring did it's job.
If the lockring did unscrew, it probably wouldn't be a big deal except the rear wheel wouldn't stop you (you are planning a front brake aren't you?) Probably some scratched paint on the chainstay. Maybe some chain damage but probably not. Most likely just a required stop, pull out the wrench, spin the cog back on, remount the wheel, dial in the chain slack and go. When you get home, tighten up the lockring with the spanner. Put getting a real track-hubbed wheel a little higher on the list.
I see the 'never ride a fix gear without a proper track hub" said like the world might end if you don't. Highly unlikely unless you insist on skip-stops. Use decent brakes and the FW hub with a BB lockring should work just fine. I won't ever again but that is because fix gear hubs are now easy to get, I love building wheels, track hub with their wide flange spacing make such good ones and I have had a lifetime's worth of "incidents". But if I were 22 again and wanted to try fix gear and had a FW wheel on hand, I'd do it again in a flash. (That my first ride ended as it did was proof enough that the BB lockring can work rather well!)
Ben
If the lockring did unscrew, it probably wouldn't be a big deal except the rear wheel wouldn't stop you (you are planning a front brake aren't you?) Probably some scratched paint on the chainstay. Maybe some chain damage but probably not. Most likely just a required stop, pull out the wrench, spin the cog back on, remount the wheel, dial in the chain slack and go. When you get home, tighten up the lockring with the spanner. Put getting a real track-hubbed wheel a little higher on the list.
I see the 'never ride a fix gear without a proper track hub" said like the world might end if you don't. Highly unlikely unless you insist on skip-stops. Use decent brakes and the FW hub with a BB lockring should work just fine. I won't ever again but that is because fix gear hubs are now easy to get, I love building wheels, track hub with their wide flange spacing make such good ones and I have had a lifetime's worth of "incidents". But if I were 22 again and wanted to try fix gear and had a FW wheel on hand, I'd do it again in a flash. (That my first ride ended as it did was proof enough that the BB lockring can work rather well!)
Ben
#9
Banned
For actual track use white industries machines hubs and cogs with a spline connection,
making gearing changes on race day easier ..
https://static1.squarespace.com/static/53cd4a66e4b0216897ed1b86/5400cf4de4b0e0b08ee202db/5400cf4de4b0b9d085ed7a35/1409339220682/TRACK+SIL.jpg?format=500w
https://static1.squarespace.com/static/53cd4a66e4b0216897ed1b86/53ecf3a1e4b03c7a36fcfa08/53ecf3a1e4b0c8071af12e10/1408037827203/FIXED+COGS+WHITE.jpg?format=500w
making gearing changes on race day easier ..
https://static1.squarespace.com/static/53cd4a66e4b0216897ed1b86/5400cf4de4b0e0b08ee202db/5400cf4de4b0b9d085ed7a35/1409339220682/TRACK+SIL.jpg?format=500w
https://static1.squarespace.com/static/53cd4a66e4b0216897ed1b86/53ecf3a1e4b03c7a36fcfa08/53ecf3a1e4b0c8071af12e10/1408037827203/FIXED+COGS+WHITE.jpg?format=500w
#10
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I see the 'never ride a fix gear without a proper track hub" said like the world might end if you don't. Highly unlikely unless you insist on skip-stops. Use decent brakes and the FW hub with a BB lockring should work just fine. I won't ever again but that is because fix gear hubs are now easy to get, I love building wheels, track hub with their wide flange spacing make such good ones and I have had a lifetime's worth of "incidents". But if I were 22 again and wanted to try fix gear and had a FW wheel on hand, I'd do it again in a flash. (That my first ride ended as it did was proof enough that the BB lockring can work rather well!)
Ben
Ben