City Guy

Greetings,

Working on bringing a 1980's vintage bike back to road worthy condition. Campagnolo Chorus, with a Sachs freewheel 12-28. I replaced the very worn chain with a new one, and when pedaling in the three smallest sprockets, there is a lot of "chain skip", Since this only happens in the smaller sprockets, I'm guessing the cassette sprockets are worn and the freewheel locking mechanism is OK. While I have some very limited bike mechanic experience from working on a few modern bikes, this problem is out of my league.
Any recommendations for a SF Bay Area bike mechanic who would be experienced with vintage bikes and 1980's Campy components.

Thanks in advance, Max

Mr. 66

I would look for a new/used bike shop or a coop may be a better option.

You don't need much to to this yourself, just the proper remover and a wrench to do the trick, the install is nothing.

squirtdad

Tahn as Silva's cycles for first choice https://www.silvacycles.com/ It is in south bay...Campbell

City Guy

Greetings,

Thanks for the info. I will contact.

dsbrantjr

If you have a freewheel it might be more economical to have a shop do the removal, since you are not likely to need the tool often, and it may not fit your replacement freewheel, which does not require a tool to install. The tool might be justified if you have a cassette since they require a tool for installation and removal.

City Guy

Greetings all,
Here is a pic of the Sachs freewheel, 6 speed, 12-28. Anyone know what tool is required for removal, and how to perform the removal. I should be able to locate a replacement, perhaps a NOS Sachs or an equivalent. Also, good idea about having a local shop remove the existing freewheel, I have some leads on shops in my area.
Any ideas for finding a replacement will be appreciated.
Thanks is advance.

3alarmer 

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...looking for another freewheel made by Sachs ? You would be making this much harder than it needs to be.

3alarmer 

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...removing a freewheel that has been in place since the 80's can turn into quite a chore. Were I you, I would opt for having someone else do it. there is enough tooth wear in your photo on the visible cogs that I would probably just do a destructive removal of that one. Which is something I won't try to explain, but you can find instructions by Googling, if you are feeling especially adventurous.

There are plenty of 6 sped freewheels being made and sold on Amazon. It can be al little tricky finding ones that do not have a 28 tooth largest cog, but they are out there.

Since you are replacing a 12-28, you should be good. You can spend anywhere from about 20 bucks, all the way up to 80-100. The Sun Race products seem to work well and are on the lower side of costs.

City Guy

Hi

Good points you make, just unsure of the exact threads on the Campagnolo hubs. As I understand, the Campy hub's freewheel thread size should be marked on the hub and visible once the freewheel is removed. At this point I may opt for the "destructive removal".
Also, a correction for error, The current Sachs freewheel is a 13-28.
Thanks to everyone, really appreciate the advice and info for this Campy Newbie...

squirtdad

get a paid membership and go to C&V (classic and vintage) for sale and put up a wtb (want to buy)

also really key to know is you rear hub british or italian threaded? post some pics

3alarmer 

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...looking for Italian threaded freewheels is another quest for aggravation. You are correct in your statement that Campagnolo clearly marked the threading on all their hubs. By the 80's, I don't recall seeing too many Italian threaded hubs/freewheels, and even if it is, I think the terminology is "class B fit" or something similar. It would not be something you wanted to go back and forth on, but simply threading a standrd (easily obtainable) freewheel onto an Italian threaded hub simply puts you in a position of using standard threaded freewheels for the future.

Anyone who thinks I'm wrong on this, feel free to correct my confusion.

3alarmer 

...most of us in the older bike crowd rarely need either a 12 or a 13 cog. Maybe if you were racing, this would be an issue.
Unless you decide to replace your crank chain rings with smaller ones, 12-28, 13-28, and 14-28 are all roughly equivalent in use.

squirtdad

I have done this, and sheldon brown writes about it, but OP seems pretty precise so figured he may be interested in italian thread or should understand that go british means stay british

also for new freewheels at $70 there is this https://www.interlocracing.com/shop/...arch=freewheel

City Guy

Hi
Agree on small sprocket sizes. While I'm new to the "older Bike" crowd, I'm definitely a member of the "Older Rider" crowd. I'm used to my modern bike's 34/50 compact and 11/32 cassette. What on earth was I thinking when I decided to relive the past of my youth and buy a vintage steel bike with a 52/39 chainrings and 13/28 sprockets????

3alarmer 

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...39-28 for a low was considered "Alpine" gearing back when that was a new bike. It gets me up the hills around here, but I'm not sure about some of the Bay Area rides. Just push harder on the pedals and stand up when you need to.

City Guy

Hi,

Wow have not heard the term "Alpine Gearing" in many, many long years. Brough back a lot of memories.

This morning I removed the freewheel retaining ring, fairly easy with a punch and small hammer. The freewheel came off easily and the pawls seem in surprisingly good condition.

I was able to read the engraved information on the Campagnolo rear hub flange and is as follows: "England 1.370" x 24 tpi BSC" Is this a fairly standard freewheel thread size/pitch? I'm pretty sure I'm going to order a replacement freewheel form Interloc Racing Design, 6 speed 13-28.

Thanks again everyone for all the advice, information, and encouragement as I learn about vintage bike maintenance.

3alarmer 

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...yeah, that's current standard. Everything you can find for sale new on the innerwebz should work fine. Do yourself a favor, and install the new one with at least grease on the threads. (Anti-seize compound is a little better in this spot, because dissimilar metals, but many people don't want to spend the extra money for a small tube of it.)

It's a relatively fine threading standard...so do not cross thread the thing when you spin it on. It's an easy mistake to make.

City Guy

Hi 3alarmer,

Thanks, just removed the freewheel body, some penetrating oil and BIG pipe wrench made fast work of the removal. Threads on hub are in perfect condition and was able to easily re-thread on the removed freewheel body. But definitely a fine pitch thread. Good call on anti-seize, I have some copper based on hand and will use.

Here is pic of my "new" bike, I replaced chain, new Challenge gum wall tires, and new Kool Stop brake pads for the Campy Chorus brakes. Just need to replace that bar tape soon. Probably will go Cinelli cork, and also need a period appropriate saddle. Oh yeah. after riding Shimano SPD-SL clipless pedals for years, I had great difficulty getting used to the pedals with toe-clips and straps. My bucket list number one item is to ride this bike in the Eroica bike event in Chianti, Italy next October. Of course hopefully pandemic will be under control by then

and the event actually takes place.

3alarmer 

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...congrats on your successful adventure. The successful ones are always the best ones. I have a couple of Masi bikes out in the garage here, too, both California made and Italian manufactured. I spent almost a year in Naples, Italy, back when I was giving my all in service to the country. I always thought I'd go back, sometime, but never did. Enjoy it if you make it there, it's a wonderful place to just hang out and watch things happen. I used to do that a lot in Naples.