oragex

Hi all,
I'm not sure how to remove this locking ring that appears to have two small holes at the top, no splines to grab. And which way I untighten it ? It reads GJ Shimano on the ring. I'm not allowed to upload a photo. It's a Shimano Touring system on an old Norco from the 90s. Thanks

maddog34

does it look similar to this one?
https://cicli-berlinetta.com/wp-cont...d-2-scaled.jpg

if so, then you'll need a two prong shimano remover and more advice before you ruin the freewheel.. DO NOT remove the ring with two holes.

oragex

Yes, It's exactly like this (I don't have the two circular metal pieces with two slots in the center)

Iride01 

Till you get 10 posts and maybe a day, just upload it to the Gallery here as you did this one. Someone here will find it and add it to the thread for you.


https://www.bikeforums.net/g/picture/30365163

You can buy those entirely new for not much money. Less than 18 bucks if you search a little. Frequently you can make them work well again by just flushing them with mineral spirits, WD-40 or other light lube without taking them apart. Whatever light lube remains in there is good enough for lubrication as it's inner parts only work when you coast.

Welcome to BF.

Bill Kapaun

Freewheel or Cassette?

oragex

Thanks for the photo. It is a freewheel with 12 splines inside.

oragex

I've uploaded 3 more photos. So do I need to remove this locking ring by turning it clockwise ? Another member says not to touch it. Thanks

LesterOfPuppets

Are you SURE you want to take your freewheel apart?

If so do it in a big bus bin or the like so you can catch all the ball bearings (and possibly pawls).

If you just want to remove your freewheel from the hub, you'll just need a freewheel tool that fits into the splines

mpetry912 

your best bet is to just soak it in a solvent - kerosene, mineral spirits, something.

Or just flush it out with some WD40 untill it spins freely then use some motor oil to lubricate it.

/markp

oragex

Yes, I already did remove the freewheel from the hub with the spline tool. I would like to refurb it - I did already disassembly and refurb a cassette on another bike. Not sure if the freewheel is more challenging? The cassette went fairly well

Bill Kapaun

A free wheel has the FW mechanism included with the assembly. A cassette doesn't.
You'll have OODLES of tiny ball bearings, and the ratcheting mechanism, in addition to cogs & spacers. Spacers tend to be different thicknesses.
A cassette has N cogs & N-1 or 2 spacers. Spacers tend to be the same.

maddog34

there are no parts available for that freewheel... there's a very high probability that you will find out why 99% of the people in the world simply BUY A NEW FREEWHEEL .

https://www.ebay.com/itm/36405641802...Bk9SR8q_vfe4Yg

Bicycle Co-Op/Recyclers sell good used Freewheels like yours for $5 to $10.

Gresp15C

I've had great results just dripping in some light oil on one end, and waiting for it to drip out the other, then working it until it frees up. Got that advice from one of the regulars here.

JohnDThompson 

Not a good towel; use one you are willing to get irredeemably filthy.

Garthr

As someone whose used freewheels since the 70's, flushing them with solvent or wd-40 is all that's needed to clean the insides. I've lubed them with basic SAE30 motor oil, Mobil One synthetic and the like. Whatever, drip in in and spin it around to work it in. I place them on paper towel overnight to let any excess come out. I've never had any body fail.

A cassette is just cogs and spacers, so of course it's a breeze. The cassette body is another story if you want to take it apart. Once you go screwing around, literally, with freewheels, things can go wonky real quickly unless you remember or document what you're doing. BF is filled with accounts of "good intentions" with freewheel dismantling that they couldn't get together properly. FW bodies don't need overhauled/dismantled, they just need some lube and a flush if called for, They're not like hubs, whose load bearing surfaces can wear. FW's just sit and spin, they don't support weight. They are remarkably durable.

If you just want to clean the cogs, you don't even have to remove them to do that. WD-40 sprayed on them and wiping with a rag works fine.

But hey, it's your stuff ... and this advice is as cheap as any other !

SkinGriz

Take this guys advice.
I use ATF instead of motor oil, but for this purpose it doesn’t matter.

I took a freewheel apart once. Trust me, the juice isn’t worth the squeeze.

dedhed

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...oto-heavy.html

​​​​​​

oragex

Thank you all for the advices and warnings. I found the part on Ebay - it seems this model got very rare. Local shops could not even order it. Until the new one arrives, I will be using the old one - it still turns but it's very gritty. While there, I tried punching the lockring clockwise. I put the cassette on the floor, and kept it from rotating with the center spline tool and my 2ft breaker bar, while punching the ring with a 6inch nail at 45deg. I hit it hard several times, it won't budge at all. Then I realized that previous owner had used a heavy oil on the chain - perhaps engine oil - this oil did bake and hardened really stiff on the cogs - so I'm assuming oil must have also got under the lockring and made like a glue underneath it so it's stuck dead. Anyhow, will soak this bad guy overnight in paint thinner - my favorite degreaser, see if the unit gets less gritty then lube it a little with engine oil and keep it for spare.

oragex

A quick update: I've been soaking it for 5 hours in paint thinner, it's no longer gritty but it got noisy probably because the grease dissolved.
I will dry and lubricate it from outside. I have Finish Line bike lubes, one is wet (green bottle), other is dry (red bottle). Would one of these be better choice ? I also have synthetic engine oil.

SkinGriz

Synthetic engine oil.

Put a couple drops at a time between the spinning and non spinning parts of the freewheel. Spin the freewheel. Couple more drops. Spin the freewheel.

As soon as you see any oil come out the other side you’re done.

oragex

An update. After the paint thinner soaking, I dried it a few days and it was spinning perfectly, clicking nicely, absolutely not gritty at all, smooth very nice working. Then I went to put a few droplets of synthetic oil around the locking ring, did spin it for a few moments and all of a sudden it become harder to spin, feeling "gummy" friction and some weird noises as in the video. I'm not sure what is happening ?

Jeff Neese

This is the same one you were hitting with a hammer?

You already got the best advice. Soak it in mineral spirits, pick it up and drain it, spin it, turn it over and soak it some more, repeat for a few days. Drain well and let dry, then apply Mobil 1 10W-30 until it starts draining out the other side. It may be too late for this one.

oragex

Thanks Jeff. Here's a second update. After cleaning and drying and lubing with oil, the unit got very squeaky/dragging. I went to try removing the locking ring again and this time It worked very easily - the oil helped unstuck the ring threads. So I got the unit overhauled and regreased and back together and working nicely as in the video. The video below is the last part of a longer overhauling video where I show that the engine oil was a bad idea, the pawls were not working properly when lubricated with engine oil (at least on my unit). Once the oil cleaned and the unit greased with light bike grease, everything works very nicely. I shall upload the complete overhaul video once finished editing it. I want to thank all for the advices.

SkinGriz

Looks great. I don’t think you’ll get significantly less drag than what you’ve accomplished.

Tommygunxs

a hammer and a screwdriver?