Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Frame damaged or welding? Trek Émonda ALR 4

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Frame damaged or welding? Trek Émonda ALR 4

Old 08-11-19, 07:34 AM
  #26  
Brocephus
Professional amateur
 
Brocephus's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Ga.
Posts: 688

Bikes: Does a Big Wheel count ?

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 302 Post(s)
Liked 136 Times in 92 Posts
Originally Posted by Rik90
The fork is perfectly fine, not even a single scratch.
If the bike was subjected to a front end crash, as has been plausibly suggested, the wheel would obviously take the initial impact, which would then be transferred to the fork, then to the frame. Neither of these forces would necessarily result in a visible crack, or scratch.



Originally Posted by Rik90
Why would you say the frame is damaged?.
Because that lump isn't normal. Other guys with the same bike report no similar lump. I pointed out that you can clearly see that the tube edges are at differing angles, and intersect at that lump, implying a bend at that point.


Originally Posted by Rik90
I can't see any visible crack on the wrinkled spot.
That's because there probably isn't a crack, but a ripple in the tube material. But at some point, I'd say it's likely the paint will fail to adhere and will begin to flake off at that area.
Brocephus is offline  
Old 08-11-19, 09:34 AM
  #27  
HTupolev
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Seattle
Posts: 4,264
Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1974 Post(s)
Liked 1,298 Times in 630 Posts
Originally Posted by Rik90
The fork is perfectly fine, not even a single scratch.
A lack of scratches doesn't mean that there's no structural damage. It's not surprising that the fork blades would still look normal, they've likely got a much higher yield strength than the frame. But it's hard to know by sight that the overall fork (including the steerer) is actually safe, and the stakes are high: that's a seriously deadly spot for a bicycle to fail.

Why would you say the frame is damaged?
Because it's shaped in a way that it shouldn't be, and which is typical of front-end collision damage. This is what my Emonda ALR frame looks like:



The ripple on your bike is definitely not a weld. The weld at the regular headtube junction is very obvious, and there's no reason for Trek to have built your downtube in two pieces.

Last edited by HTupolev; 08-11-19 at 03:07 PM.
HTupolev is offline  
Old 08-11-19, 09:37 AM
  #28  
WizardOfBoz
Generally bewildered
 
WizardOfBoz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Eastern PA, USA
Posts: 3,037

Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 6.9, 1999 LeMond Zurich, 1978 Schwinn Superior

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1152 Post(s)
Liked 341 Times in 251 Posts
Originally Posted by Rik90
The fork is perfectly fine, not even a single scratch. But, know knows, maybe it was replaced. Why would you say the frame is damaged? I can't see any visible crack on the wrinkled spot. I noticed the brake divot, and that's also a potential sign for a frontal crash.
I think one of my comments may have misled you (that is, I was wrong). Significant structural issues can be hidden by paint, and a deformation of the frame may not disrupt the paint surface. My thinking has changed to where I tend to suspect that there was a bonk to the frame and it put this slight ripple in the frame. And it may have damaged the fork underneath the paint.

Originally Posted by HTupolev
A lack of scratches doesn't mean that there's no structural damage. It's not surprising that the fork blades would still look normal, they've likely got a much higher yield strength than the frame. But it's hard to know by sight that the overall fork (including the steerer) is actually safe, and the stakes are high: that's a seriously deadly spot for a bicycle to fail.
I think I'm going back to what I and a lot of others have said: check with Trek.

You can supply them with more info if you get the exact axle to axle dimension ("J") in addition to your pictures.

Last edited by WizardOfBoz; 08-11-19 at 12:35 PM.
WizardOfBoz is offline  
Old 08-11-19, 02:34 PM
  #29  
Spoonrobot 
Senior Member
 
Spoonrobot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,062
Mentioned: 63 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1216 Post(s)
Liked 183 Times in 116 Posts
Originally Posted by Rik90
The fork is perfectly fine, not even a single scratch. But, know knows, maybe it was replaced. Why would you say the frame is damaged? I can't see any visible crack on the wrinkled spot. I noticed the brake divot, and that's also a potential sign for a frontal crash.
This is the part you can't know unless you have very specific and expensive testing performed, and even then it's not always clear. A carbon fork isn't going to be bent or show visual indication that the underlying fiber matrix has been damaged. In other industries carbon fiber parts will be removed from service not because they are visually damaged or show damage on test scans - they are pulled because they have been exposed to a level of force exceeding the safe standards for that part. Damage to the downtube from a front end impact would be one such reason.

The frame is damaged because it has a visual indication of a significant front end impact.
Spoonrobot is offline  
Old 08-11-19, 06:12 PM
  #30  
shelbyfv
Expired Member
 
shelbyfv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 11,492
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3646 Post(s)
Liked 5,377 Times in 2,729 Posts
Post 27 shows all you need to know. Your frame has a crease, ripple, dingleberry or whatever where it shouldn't. Get your money back, move on.
shelbyfv is offline  
Old 08-13-19, 08:04 AM
  #31  
Rik90
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by shelbyfv
Post 27 shows all you need to know. Your frame has a crease, ripple, dingleberry or whatever where it shouldn't. Get your money back, move on.
I wish I could but unfortunately, the person who sold me the bike is not accepting a return.
Rik90 is offline  
Old 08-13-19, 08:06 AM
  #32  
Rik90
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by WizardOfBoz
I think one of my comments may have misled you (that is, I was wrong). Significant structural issues can be hidden by paint, and a deformation of the frame may not disrupt the paint surface. My thinking has changed to where I tend to suspect that there was a bonk to the frame and it put this slight ripple in the frame. And it may have damaged the fork underneath the paint.



I think I'm going back to what I and a lot of others have said: check with Trek.

You can supply them with more info if you get the exact axle to axle dimension ("J") in addition to your pictures.
I have contacted Trek but they said that they can't assist me as I am not the original owner. I will try to go to a Trek reseller to get their opinion on the safety of the frame but I am not sure it will be much different from what many people already said in this forum.
Rik90 is offline  
Old 08-13-19, 08:17 AM
  #33  
Rik90
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by HTupolev
A lack of scratches doesn't mean that there's no structural damage. It's not surprising that the fork blades would still look normal, they've likely got a much higher yield strength than the frame. But it's hard to know by sight that the overall fork (including the steerer) is actually safe, and the stakes are high: that's a seriously deadly spot for a bicycle to fail.


Because it's shaped in a way that it shouldn't be, and which is typical of front-end collision damage. This is what my Emonda ALR frame looks like:



The ripple on your bike is definitely not a weld. The weld at the regular headtube junction is very obvious, and there's no reason for Trek to have built your downtube in two pieces.
Thank you very much for this! As many posts suggested my frame is damaged. Now the challenge will be to judge whether it is safe to ride or not.
Rik90 is offline  
Old 08-13-19, 08:51 AM
  #34  
WizardOfBoz
Generally bewildered
 
WizardOfBoz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Eastern PA, USA
Posts: 3,037

Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 6.9, 1999 LeMond Zurich, 1978 Schwinn Superior

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1152 Post(s)
Liked 341 Times in 251 Posts
Originally Posted by Rik90
I wish I could but unfortunately, the person who sold me the bike is not accepting a return.
If its eBay you can force a return if the item is damaged and the seller didn't tell you. In fact, if the item is damaged and the seller didn't tell you, you could probably force the issue wrt this being fraud. May not be worth it.

Check the "J" dimension. Check the fork for flex and for any grating sounds.
WizardOfBoz is offline  
Old 08-13-19, 01:49 PM
  #35  
AnkleWork
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Llano Estacado
Posts: 3,702

Bikes: old clunker

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 684 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 105 Times in 83 Posts
Originally Posted by Rik90
...
Now the challenge will be to judge whether it is safe to ride or not.
It's difficult to receive a useful answer to a black-or-white question. Maybe ask "to what degree is it unsafe?" And the answer is something like "it depends..."
AnkleWork is offline  
Old 08-13-19, 02:41 PM
  #36  
RoCou
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 31
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked 8 Times in 6 Posts
It's a tube that failed (partly) in buckling - the result of a lengthwise force that exceeded the capacity of the tube. Like when you press leghtwise on a bathroom paper tube. Trek's Alpha 300 Aluminum is effectively 6061 T6, the T6 part describing the thermal treatment. It does not take plastic deformation well - 6061 is formed in annealed state, then heat-treated, because after heat treatment it gets a lot stiffer but also a lot more brittle and a lot less tolerant to plastic deformation. Long story short - I wouldn't ride it. Unless you already lost all you teeth. I'd certainly use it on a trainer, however.
RoCou is offline  
Old 08-13-19, 02:53 PM
  #37  
RoCou
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 31
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked 8 Times in 6 Posts
And since we agree it was crashed, the next logical question is - how. Car door. How do I know? Been there, done that, got the frame bend. No scratches on the frame.
RoCou is offline  
Old 08-13-19, 03:43 PM
  #38  
Rik90
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by RoCou
It's a tube that failed (partly) in buckling - the result of a lengthwise force that exceeded the capacity of the tube. Like when you press leghtwise on a bathroom paper tube. Trek's Alpha 300 Aluminum is effectively 6061 T6, the T6 part describing the thermal treatment. It does not take plastic deformation well - 6061 is formed in annealed state, then heat-treated, because after heat treatment it gets a lot stiffer but also a lot more brittle and a lot less tolerant to plastic deformation. Long story short - I wouldn't ride it. Unless you already lost all you teeth. I'd certainly use it on a trainer, however.
I understand why you wouldn't ride it but could you let me understand a bit more what is the risk? Are we talking about a sudden failure of the frame while riding? If so, could I do anything to anticipate it or it could already happen on the next ride? Sorry to bother you with questions but I have spent some money on this bike so before throwing it in the bin I would really like to understand the situation. Thanks in advance.


Rik90 is offline  
Old 08-13-19, 04:15 PM
  #39  
shelbyfv
Expired Member
 
shelbyfv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 11,492
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3646 Post(s)
Liked 5,377 Times in 2,729 Posts
Asking to know when and how it will fail is asking the impossible, as is how badly you will be hurt when it does fail. If I were to tell you "it will be OK if you ride gently and only split like a beer can if you hit a pothole," why would you put your trust in some random poster on the internet? It's not fun when you've been cheated out of hard earned cash, but it happens. The only responsible action now is to cut the thing up, recycle if possible. Sorry.
shelbyfv is offline  
Old 08-13-19, 04:18 PM
  #40  
Rik90
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by shelbyfv
Asking to know when and how it will fail is asking the impossible, as is how badly you will be hurt when it does fail. If I were to tell you "it will be OK if you ride gently and only split like a beer can if you hit a pothole," why would you put your trust in some random poster on the internet? It's not fun when you've been cheated out of hard earned cash, but it happens. The only responsible action now is to cut the thing up, recycle if possible. Sorry.
I understand and I am willing to accept that the only answer could be that it is impossible to know. Just looking for some knowledgeable people
Rik90 is offline  
Old 08-13-19, 05:23 PM
  #41  
squirtdad
Senior Member
 
squirtdad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 9,829

Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque

Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2336 Post(s)
Liked 2,803 Times in 1,532 Posts
Originally Posted by RoCou
It's a tube that failed (partly) in buckling - the result of a lengthwise force that exceeded the capacity of the tube. Like when you press leghtwise on a bathroom paper tube. Trek's Alpha 300 Aluminum is effectively 6061 T6, the T6 part describing the thermal treatment. It does not take plastic deformation well - 6061 is formed in annealed state, then heat-treated, because after heat treatment it gets a lot stiffer but also a lot more brittle and a lot less tolerant to plastic deformation. Long story short - I wouldn't ride it. Unless you already lost all you teeth. I'd certainly use it on a trainer, however.
translated ....aluminum in this frame when bent (plastic deformation) gets more brittle and can fail completely with no warning. The bulges are weakened failure points right now. There is no guaranteed way to see it getting worse or predict when or if it will fail, but the failure will not be gradual...it will be all at once

the result if it were to happen at speed would be painful

it could ride for years or it could go next ride

So you need to balance How much health insurance do you have and how tolerant to pain are you vs what will it cost to strip the components and find a new frame/fork to put them on

So
__________________
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)



squirtdad is offline  
Old 08-14-19, 06:35 AM
  #42  
Rik90
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by WizardOfBoz
If its eBay you can force a return if the item is damaged and the seller didn't tell you. In fact, if the item is damaged and the seller didn't tell you, you could probably force the issue wrt this being fraud. May not be worth it.

Check the "J" dimension. Check the fork for flex and for any grating sounds.
J dimension is correct
Rik90 is offline  
Old 08-15-19, 08:51 PM
  #43  
sweeks
Senior Member
 
sweeks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 2,546

Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"

Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 980 Post(s)
Liked 580 Times in 398 Posts
While aluminum frames are less resistant to impact damage than some other materials, I think if this were my bike and my choices were either to ride it or eat it, I'd ride it. Here are my reasons:
1) The fork appears undamaged. (Devil's Advocate mode: a damaged fork could have been replaced.)
2) The "ripple" is somewhat remote from the head tube; I've seen frames damaged by frontal crashes and the wrinkling is usually closer to the head tube.
3) There appears not to be a similar wrinkle in the top tube; I'd expect some damage to both tubes, though I agree this might not happen.
4) The wrinkle is in an easily inspected location. This is the main reason I'd ride it. If the frame began to crack, it would be detectable by running a finger over it. The tube wouldn't go from its present condition to total catastrophic failure in an instant. Even if it did, hypothetically speaking, there would still be the top tube holding the bike together.
That is my $0.25.


Frontal impact damage

Last edited by sweeks; 08-15-19 at 08:57 PM. Reason: found an image
sweeks is offline  
Old 08-16-19, 06:27 AM
  #44  
Rik90
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Do you think it would be worth it to remove the paint and inspect the aluminium for cracks? I guess it could be a better option than throwing it directly in the bin.
Rik90 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
roval
Mountain Biking
3
08-26-19 11:34 PM
orangegore
Road Cycling
1
02-26-17 06:10 PM
fixedt1
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
12
12-18-16 11:30 PM
kphaam
Classic & Vintage
4
05-26-16 01:48 PM
pcmike
Mountain Biking
4
06-24-11 07:59 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.