New Guy With a Few Questions
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New Guy With a Few Questions
Hello everyone,
I have always had an interest in steel frame road bikes, but never got around to getting one - a mistake which I am finally planning on rectifying.
I am not what most here would probably class a "serious rider", usually completing rides of 40 miles or less on any given day. I currently only have a hard-tail mountain bike, but as I get older I am becoming more interested in pavement riding. I've always loved the looks of classic road bikes, and would love to pick one up. This search has generated a few questions:
-I am on a limited budged, $300 max, but lower is better
-I have access to a media blaster and powder coating, so mild restoration is not a problem
-I have plenty of tools (I am assuming) everything I would require to work on one
What brands should I be looking at? From what I have seen I prefer 80s bikes
Is there a list of particular models a certain brand makes? I am having a hard time telling if a model is high or low end within a manufacturer's line
Cost wise, would I be better off buying a bike in fantastic shape at a higher price, or one in poor condition that needs work? I am not sure how quickly components add up, and I am assuming I'll need new tires, chain and seat at a minimum.
How can I identify higher quality bikes without knowing the brand/model? I have read the following:
-Look for forged dropouts with axle adjusting screw and a separate derailleur hanger
-Ornate lug work (I assume this means fancier designs etc.)
-Higher end components (Campagnolo, Shimano DuraACe, Ultegra, 600 series, and Suntour Superbe GPX and Cyclone)
-Brakes without safety levers - what exactly are safety levers?
-Downtube Shifters
-Sticker indicating Double-butted Frame
What am I missing from my list? Anything that would be easy to inspect for a new guy?
Thanks a bunch for any help, it is greatly appreciated. I am planning on riding this bike casually for the next 20 years or so - no, it will not be converted to a fixie.
I have always had an interest in steel frame road bikes, but never got around to getting one - a mistake which I am finally planning on rectifying.
I am not what most here would probably class a "serious rider", usually completing rides of 40 miles or less on any given day. I currently only have a hard-tail mountain bike, but as I get older I am becoming more interested in pavement riding. I've always loved the looks of classic road bikes, and would love to pick one up. This search has generated a few questions:
-I am on a limited budged, $300 max, but lower is better
-I have access to a media blaster and powder coating, so mild restoration is not a problem
-I have plenty of tools (I am assuming) everything I would require to work on one
What brands should I be looking at? From what I have seen I prefer 80s bikes
Is there a list of particular models a certain brand makes? I am having a hard time telling if a model is high or low end within a manufacturer's line
Cost wise, would I be better off buying a bike in fantastic shape at a higher price, or one in poor condition that needs work? I am not sure how quickly components add up, and I am assuming I'll need new tires, chain and seat at a minimum.
How can I identify higher quality bikes without knowing the brand/model? I have read the following:
-Look for forged dropouts with axle adjusting screw and a separate derailleur hanger
-Ornate lug work (I assume this means fancier designs etc.)
-Higher end components (Campagnolo, Shimano DuraACe, Ultegra, 600 series, and Suntour Superbe GPX and Cyclone)
-Brakes without safety levers - what exactly are safety levers?
-Downtube Shifters
-Sticker indicating Double-butted Frame
What am I missing from my list? Anything that would be easy to inspect for a new guy?
Thanks a bunch for any help, it is greatly appreciated. I am planning on riding this bike casually for the next 20 years or so - no, it will not be converted to a fixie.
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Most important thing i would figure out is what bike frame size best fits you ( or at least a range)
For example my inseam is 32" and so i could comfortably ride a 54cm to 56cm frame.
Correct fittment is #1 on my list of bike searching.
For example my inseam is 32" and so i could comfortably ride a 54cm to 56cm frame.
Correct fittment is #1 on my list of bike searching.
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Welcome, @Cheseldine!
IMO, the only way to find out what you really like is to just start wrenching and riding. Get a $20 bike that tickles your fancy and get underway. Meanwhile keep reading the posts on this forum. At some point they will begin to make sense.
IMO, the only way to find out what you really like is to just start wrenching and riding. Get a $20 bike that tickles your fancy and get underway. Meanwhile keep reading the posts on this forum. At some point they will begin to make sense.
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$300 max budget is going to make finding and tuning up a relatively high end (double butted, nice components) difficult. It happens for many of the regular posters on this forum, but they have the tools and the experience to pick the right bike and get it rolling again on the cheap.
If your budget really can't go above $300, you may be looking for a while potentially.
I would suggest going after Japanese brands, they're cheaper usually. Centurion, Diamondback, Fuji, Miyata, Nishiki, Panasonic, Univega, Shogun. There's others.
Also, keep in mind that you don't really know what you want in a bike yet. You may not be riding the bike you buy for decades to come, and that's...okay. Don't try to hit the bullseye on the first try, but do attempt to at least narrow down a bit what kind of riding you want to do. But I think you'll be best served with a bike that's like a Swiss army knife, and can be tuned to new purposes relatively easily.
So I would not recommend you to go after specifically road racing bikes with small tire clearances. It's difficult to get them to do other things besides going fast on the street. A mid level touring/recreational bike, like the Miyata 210 would be a great choice for you. You may not find it exactly, but familiarize yourself with its characteristics and seek them out in different brands.
One main characteristic I would recommend you take notice of it clearance for fenders and wider tires. You can look at the space between the rear tire and the seat tube (the tube the seatpost slides into, the post the saddle is fixed to) as a proxy for this. Though you also have to take into account where the rear wheel's hub is in the rear dropout. Since they're horizontal the wheel can slide closer to and further away from the seat tube. Something to take notice of when looking at bikes.
I would also put Schwinn on the menu for the simple fact that there are millions of them out there, and many fine choices that will fit your needs. Some people try to sell them at a higher price since they're a schwinn, but there are enough sellers to find something nice at a reasonable price.
Also, what city do you live in? Many forum members enjoy a good bike hunt on craigslist to help other people locate a good vintage bike.
If your budget really can't go above $300, you may be looking for a while potentially.
I would suggest going after Japanese brands, they're cheaper usually. Centurion, Diamondback, Fuji, Miyata, Nishiki, Panasonic, Univega, Shogun. There's others.
Also, keep in mind that you don't really know what you want in a bike yet. You may not be riding the bike you buy for decades to come, and that's...okay. Don't try to hit the bullseye on the first try, but do attempt to at least narrow down a bit what kind of riding you want to do. But I think you'll be best served with a bike that's like a Swiss army knife, and can be tuned to new purposes relatively easily.
So I would not recommend you to go after specifically road racing bikes with small tire clearances. It's difficult to get them to do other things besides going fast on the street. A mid level touring/recreational bike, like the Miyata 210 would be a great choice for you. You may not find it exactly, but familiarize yourself with its characteristics and seek them out in different brands.
One main characteristic I would recommend you take notice of it clearance for fenders and wider tires. You can look at the space between the rear tire and the seat tube (the tube the seatpost slides into, the post the saddle is fixed to) as a proxy for this. Though you also have to take into account where the rear wheel's hub is in the rear dropout. Since they're horizontal the wheel can slide closer to and further away from the seat tube. Something to take notice of when looking at bikes.
I would also put Schwinn on the menu for the simple fact that there are millions of them out there, and many fine choices that will fit your needs. Some people try to sell them at a higher price since they're a schwinn, but there are enough sellers to find something nice at a reasonable price.
Also, what city do you live in? Many forum members enjoy a good bike hunt on craigslist to help other people locate a good vintage bike.
Last edited by Piff; 12-12-18 at 01:51 PM.
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40 miles on a mtb is nothing to sneeze at! well done!
tempted to play devil's advocate & ask: what do you want to do? ride or restore? meaning, that would help decide what to shop for. cuz, budget aside, I think there are plenty of ride-ready bikes for sale
also, about where do you live? I'm sure more than a cpl readers wouldn't mind perusing CL on your behalf to point out some that catch their eye
tempted to play devil's advocate & ask: what do you want to do? ride or restore? meaning, that would help decide what to shop for. cuz, budget aside, I think there are plenty of ride-ready bikes for sale
also, about where do you live? I'm sure more than a cpl readers wouldn't mind perusing CL on your behalf to point out some that catch their eye
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If you post your location, the collective here may be able to scan the local on-line ads and point to a few candidates for you.
You've picked a good time to look for bikes - the market is very soft, at least in my area. I'd expect that I could pick up a very nice 80's road bike for <$300 with a couple of weeks of looking.
You've picked a good time to look for bikes - the market is very soft, at least in my area. I'd expect that I could pick up a very nice 80's road bike for <$300 with a couple of weeks of looking.
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Ornate lug work can be crossed off your list.
300 bucks will get you a nice bike.
What city are you in/near? We love to shop on Craig's List for bikes and you will get plenty of direction on what to look for.
80s Japanese bikes with Shimano Indexed Shifting are a great place to start with plenty of reasonably priced readily available parts.
300 bucks will get you a nice bike.
What city are you in/near? We love to shop on Craig's List for bikes and you will get plenty of direction on what to look for.
80s Japanese bikes with Shimano Indexed Shifting are a great place to start with plenty of reasonably priced readily available parts.
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$300 max budget is going to make finding and tuning up a relatively high end (double butted, nice components) difficult. It happens for many of the regular posters on this forum, but they have the tools and the experience to pick the right bike and get it rolling again on the cheap.
If your budget really can't go above $300, you may be looking for a while potentially.
I would suggest going after Japanese brands, they're cheaper usually. Centurion, Diamondback, Fuji, Miyata, Nishiki, Panasonic, Univega, Shogun. There's others.
Also, keep in mind that you don't really know what you want in a bike yet. You may not be riding the bike you buy for decades to come, and that's...okay. Don't try to hit the bullseye on the first try, but do attempt to at least narrow down a bit what kind of riding you want to do. But I think you'll be best served with a bike that's like a Swiss army knife, and can be tuned to new purposes relatively easily.
So I would not recommend you to go after specifically road racing bikes with small tire clearances. It's difficult to get them to do other things besides going fast on the street. A mid level touring/recreational bike, like the Miyata 210 would be a great choice for you. You may not find it exactly, but familiarize yourself with its characteristics and seek them out in different brands.
One main characteristic I would recommend you take notice of it clearance for fenders and wider tires. You can look at the space between the rear tire and the seat tube (the tube the seatpost slides into, the post the saddle is fixed to) as a proxy for this. Though you also have to take into account where the rear wheel's hub is in the rear dropout. Since they're horizontal the wheel can slide closer to and further away from the seat tube. Something to take notice of when looking at bikes.
I would also put Schwinn on the menu for the simple fact that there are millions of them out there, and many fine choices that will fit your needs. Some people try to sell them at a higher price since they're a schwinn, but there are enough sellers to find something nice at a reasonable price.
Also, what city do you live in? Many forum members enjoy a good bike hunt on craigslist to help other people locate a good vintage bike.
If your budget really can't go above $300, you may be looking for a while potentially.
I would suggest going after Japanese brands, they're cheaper usually. Centurion, Diamondback, Fuji, Miyata, Nishiki, Panasonic, Univega, Shogun. There's others.
Also, keep in mind that you don't really know what you want in a bike yet. You may not be riding the bike you buy for decades to come, and that's...okay. Don't try to hit the bullseye on the first try, but do attempt to at least narrow down a bit what kind of riding you want to do. But I think you'll be best served with a bike that's like a Swiss army knife, and can be tuned to new purposes relatively easily.
So I would not recommend you to go after specifically road racing bikes with small tire clearances. It's difficult to get them to do other things besides going fast on the street. A mid level touring/recreational bike, like the Miyata 210 would be a great choice for you. You may not find it exactly, but familiarize yourself with its characteristics and seek them out in different brands.
One main characteristic I would recommend you take notice of it clearance for fenders and wider tires. You can look at the space between the rear tire and the seat tube (the tube the seatpost slides into, the post the saddle is fixed to) as a proxy for this. Though you also have to take into account where the rear wheel's hub is in the rear dropout. Since they're horizontal the wheel can slide closer to and further away from the seat tube. Something to take notice of when looking at bikes.
I would also put Schwinn on the menu for the simple fact that there are millions of them out there, and many fine choices that will fit your needs. Some people try to sell them at a higher price since they're a schwinn, but there are enough sellers to find something nice at a reasonable price.
Also, what city do you live in? Many forum members enjoy a good bike hunt on craigslist to help other people locate a good vintage bike.
I live in NW Montana, so my choices may be a bit limited.
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40 miles on a mtb is nothing to sneeze at! well done!
tempted to play devil's advocate & ask: what do you want to do? ride or restore? meaning, that would help decide what to shop for. cuz, budget aside, I think there are plenty of ride-ready bikes for sale
also, about where do you live? I'm sure more than a cpl readers wouldn't mind perusing CL on your behalf to point out some that catch their eye
tempted to play devil's advocate & ask: what do you want to do? ride or restore? meaning, that would help decide what to shop for. cuz, budget aside, I think there are plenty of ride-ready bikes for sale
also, about where do you live? I'm sure more than a cpl readers wouldn't mind perusing CL on your behalf to point out some that catch their eye
I live very close to Glacier National Park in Montana, and there is a famous biking road called Going to the Sun that I am mainly interested in riding in the summers. I've been doing it on my mountain bike with some difficulty, and would love to be able to do so on a vintage road bike. I'd post a link showing the road, but it says I do not have enough posts yet.
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Welcome!
Good advice here already. I would just add: I wouldn't worry too much about "high end" vs "low end" within brands, especially if you are looking at the Japanese brands named above. Even the "low end" bikes from the reputable Japanese names in the 1980s, and some of the American brands like Trek, were made with relatively light steel, and perfectly functional components. It's probably ideal to look for a bike with 700c rather than 27" wheels, but I wouldn't consider that a deal-breaker. I wouldn't just look for downtube shifters by the way. Some great bikes out there with bar-end shifters. I would just look askance at stem-mounted shifters. Those are a red flag for "heavy, bottom of the line," to generalize somewhat.
We look forward to further reports!
Good advice here already. I would just add: I wouldn't worry too much about "high end" vs "low end" within brands, especially if you are looking at the Japanese brands named above. Even the "low end" bikes from the reputable Japanese names in the 1980s, and some of the American brands like Trek, were made with relatively light steel, and perfectly functional components. It's probably ideal to look for a bike with 700c rather than 27" wheels, but I wouldn't consider that a deal-breaker. I wouldn't just look for downtube shifters by the way. Some great bikes out there with bar-end shifters. I would just look askance at stem-mounted shifters. Those are a red flag for "heavy, bottom of the line," to generalize somewhat.
We look forward to further reports!
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Ornate lug work can be crossed off your list.
300 bucks will get you a nice bike.
What city are you in/near? We love to shop on Craig's List for bikes and you will get plenty of direction on what to look for.
80s Japanese bikes with Shimano Indexed Shifting are a great place to start with plenty of reasonably priced readily available parts.
300 bucks will get you a nice bike.
What city are you in/near? We love to shop on Craig's List for bikes and you will get plenty of direction on what to look for.
80s Japanese bikes with Shimano Indexed Shifting are a great place to start with plenty of reasonably priced readily available parts.
#13
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If you put you geographical location in that would help people give you ideas from craigslist (or there may even be a local C&V person with something )
a lot of value in classic Japanese bikes Miyata, Bridgestone, Pansonic, Univega, Centurion, Nishki, etc and also there is something special about Italian frames, and 531... it goes on.
a good idea is to look around in general in this forum
a lot of value in classic Japanese bikes Miyata, Bridgestone, Pansonic, Univega, Centurion, Nishki, etc and also there is something special about Italian frames, and 531... it goes on.
a good idea is to look around in general in this forum
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
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Since you are interested in road riding, but "casually" as you said, I still think buying something that's less locked into a single purpose is a good idea.
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If you can manage a drive to Missoula, there's a nice Schwinn Passage in your size (link):
Not the sexiest, but a great bike for paved and gravel.
Schwinn Passage touring bike - $250
Schwinn Passage 18-speed touring bike, 1980s in very nice condition. Columbus Tenax chrome-moly double butted main tubes, 23-inch (58 cm) steel frame. The original components give this made-in-USA Schwinn an international pedigree:
Sachs Huret rear derailler and shift levers
Suntour XC Sport front derailler
Sakae CX triple cranks
DiaCompe brake handles, cantilever brakes
San Marco saddle
Sakae handlebars
Weinmann alloy wheels with Maillard quick-release hubs
Features a Blackburn rack and Mt. Zefal air pump
Tuned up and ready to hit the road.
Schwinn Passage 18-speed touring bike, 1980s in very nice condition. Columbus Tenax chrome-moly double butted main tubes, 23-inch (58 cm) steel frame. The original components give this made-in-USA Schwinn an international pedigree:
Sachs Huret rear derailler and shift levers
Suntour XC Sport front derailler
Sakae CX triple cranks
DiaCompe brake handles, cantilever brakes
San Marco saddle
Sakae handlebars
Weinmann alloy wheels with Maillard quick-release hubs
Features a Blackburn rack and Mt. Zefal air pump
Tuned up and ready to hit the road.
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To answer your question, a little of both. I love tinkering and restoring things so that would definitely be an enjoyable aspect for me.
I live very close to Glacier National Park in Montana, and there is a famous biking road called Going to the Sun that I am mainly interested in riding in the summers. I've been doing it on my mountain bike with some difficulty, and would love to be able to do so on a vintage road bike. I'd post a link showing the road, but it says I do not have enough posts yet.
I live very close to Glacier National Park in Montana, and there is a famous biking road called Going to the Sun that I am mainly interested in riding in the summers. I've been doing it on my mountain bike with some difficulty, and would love to be able to do so on a vintage road bike. I'd post a link showing the road, but it says I do not have enough posts yet.
Knowing Montana, (grew up in Chinook) the pickings are going to be slim, you might have to road trip, Missoula with UM may have a bigger selection
did a quick craiigs list search
this is what i saw
The Ciooc is a really cool bike from the C&V point and would be the one I would point you at
Trek X1 crossbike roadie size 56 - $500 (Columbia falls)
https://kalispell.craigslist.org/bik...762586692.html
Motobecane Nomad - great commuter! - $100 (Bigfork)
looks maybe too big
https://kalispell.craigslist.org/bik...748098223.html
Ciocc with Campagnolo Components & Columbus Steel - $390 (MISSOULA)
https://missoula.craigslist.org/bik/...754877057.html
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Last edited by squirtdad; 12-12-18 at 02:21 PM.
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If you can manage a drive to Missoula, there's a nice Schwinn Passage in your size (link):
Not the sexiest, but a great bike for paved and gravel.
Not the sexiest, but a great bike for paved and gravel.
#18
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Yes the Trek ticks all the boxes imo.
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The Sekai and the Novara on the Missoula CL are what you are looking for I think but they are a bit too big. The TREK is not 80s lugged steel.
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Not a Trek expert but it's lugged, it's steel and the components suggest 80's. What do you think it is?
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Oh gosh I don't know ... How bout' one of these .
Centurion Ironman . 86'
DSCF2463 by mark westi, on Flickr
Centurion Ironman . 86'
DSCF2463 by mark westi, on Flickr
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#24
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This is the one CO_Hoya referred to in post 15
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This is the one CO_Hoya referred to in post 15
Fwiw, I also recommend an 80s Japanese-made road bike. Your location might make the search more challenging, but they're out there in your size and at your price, e.g., this Panasonic DX4000 currently on Boston's CL: https://boston.craigslist.org/nwb/bi...765818358.html
Last edited by nlerner; 12-12-18 at 04:15 PM.