Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Have a slight problem with my Miyata 615s front derailleur

Search
Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Have a slight problem with my Miyata 615s front derailleur

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-30-19, 07:31 PM
  #1  
robertj298 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
robertj298's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 1,142

Bikes: 1983 Univega Super Strada, 1986 Panasonic DX5000, 1984 Fuji Team 85 Univega Gran Turismo, 1984 Lotus Unique, 1987 Centurion Expert, 1987 Centurion Ironman Master,

Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 677 Post(s)
Liked 460 Times in 182 Posts
Have a slight problem with my Miyata 615s front derailleur

I have everything adjusted and it shifts very well. The only problem I seem to have
is when I shift from the small front chain ring back to the middle chain ring. To get
it to go to the middle ring you have go quite a ways past the normal position and then
trim it back from there.Is there an adjustment I'm missing? All the other shifts are fine.
robertj298 is offline  
Old 07-30-19, 07:46 PM
  #2  
clubman 
Phyllo-buster
 
clubman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,847

Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic

Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2298 Post(s)
Liked 2,054 Times in 1,254 Posts
Originally Posted by robertj298
I have everything adjusted and it shifts very well. The only problem I seem to have
is when I shift from the small front chain ring back to the middle chain ring. To get
it to go to the middle ring you have go quite a ways past the normal position and then
trim it back from there.Is there an adjustment I'm missing? All the other shifts are fine.
What derailleur and what shifters? Pics of both are very helpful.
clubman is offline  
Old 07-30-19, 08:18 PM
  #3  
robertj298 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
robertj298's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 1,142

Bikes: 1983 Univega Super Strada, 1986 Panasonic DX5000, 1984 Fuji Team 85 Univega Gran Turismo, 1984 Lotus Unique, 1987 Centurion Expert, 1987 Centurion Ironman Master,

Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 677 Post(s)
Liked 460 Times in 182 Posts
Originally Posted by clubman
What derailleur and what shifters? Pics of both are very helpful.
Shimano z204gs front derailleur. There's no name on the shifters but I assume they are Shimano because everything seems original.
robertj298 is offline  
Old 07-30-19, 10:14 PM
  #4  
Salamandrine 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 6,280

Bikes: 78 Masi Criterium, 68 PX10, 2016 Mercian King of Mercia, Rivendell Clem Smith Jr

Mentioned: 120 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2317 Post(s)
Liked 597 Times in 430 Posts
It's too high. There should be about a penny thickness between the big chainring and the outer plate of the FD. Proper position will help to reduce sluggish shifting. I suspect that is your main issue. Since it's Biopace this is going to be a compromise. Just use the gap and the closest point.

The angle is also important. Make sure you get that right. The Park tools tutorials are pretty good. Making the inner plate parallel to the chainrings is a good start point, but what works best varies.

Beyond that, there are other ways to improve FD shifting, but they are kind of impossible to explain in words alone.

Also, clean and lube your chain. That will help.
Salamandrine is offline  
Old 07-30-19, 10:21 PM
  #5  
clubman 
Phyllo-buster
 
clubman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,847

Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic

Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2298 Post(s)
Liked 2,054 Times in 1,254 Posts
In a friction setup, it's quite normal to develop some cable stretch. Go to the granny ring, re-adjust limit screw and take all slack out of the cable with some pliers. Then adjust top limit screw and see what happens. If it's still not working, play with height position of derailleur on downtube and then angle.

Edit. All of what @Salamandrine just said
clubman is offline  
Old 07-31-19, 05:36 AM
  #6  
52telecaster
ambulatory senior
 
52telecaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Peoria Il
Posts: 5,998

Bikes: Austro Daimler modified by Gugie! Raleigh Professional and lots of other bikes.

Mentioned: 76 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1955 Post(s)
Liked 3,661 Times in 1,679 Posts
Great advice already. I will just say that as an old tourist i put small rings on my crank. Very often a 40 in the most out outbard position. Its difficult to find a road front mech that will get close enough. What you describe is what i run into a lot using a derailleur mounted too high.
52telecaster is offline  
Old 07-31-19, 02:12 PM
  #7  
Dfrost 
Senior Member
 
Dfrost's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,990

Bikes: ‘87 Marinoni SLX Sports Tourer, ‘79 Miyata 912 by Gugificazione

Mentioned: 166 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 502 Post(s)
Liked 466 Times in 256 Posts
Your oval-ish Biopace chain rings force the front derailleur to be higher than needed for round chain rings to clear the high spots of the oval. Watch out for that.
Dfrost is offline  
Old 07-31-19, 06:30 PM
  #8  
robertj298 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
robertj298's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 1,142

Bikes: 1983 Univega Super Strada, 1986 Panasonic DX5000, 1984 Fuji Team 85 Univega Gran Turismo, 1984 Lotus Unique, 1987 Centurion Expert, 1987 Centurion Ironman Master,

Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 677 Post(s)
Liked 460 Times in 182 Posts
Originally Posted by Salamandrine
It's too high. There should be about a penny thickness between the big chainring and the outer plate of the FD. Proper position will help to reduce sluggish shifting. I suspect that is your main issue. Since it's Biopace this is going to be a compromise. Just use the gap and the closest point.

The angle is also important. Make sure you get that right. The Park tools tutorials are pretty good. Making the inner plate parallel to the chainrings is a good start point, but what works best varies.

Beyond that, there are other ways to improve FD shifting, but they are kind of impossible to explain in words alone.

Also, clean and lube your chain. That will help.
There is less than a penny's gap when the chainring is at its highest pint.
robertj298 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Calle
Road Cycling
5
07-28-16 11:53 AM
engineerbob
Bicycle Mechanics
6
02-04-16 01:45 PM
miya310
Bicycle Mechanics
6
06-26-15 02:41 PM
mattm0805
Bicycle Mechanics
7
10-21-10 06:17 PM
nautaflcl
Bicycle Mechanics
4
09-27-10 06:28 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.