Building a custom wheel
#1
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Building a custom wheel
Hello,
I was wondering about building custom wheels and I have no experience with that subject. Is it better or not than buying factory ones?
I've been looking at ebay and there are some carbon rims. Are those 'non-brand' carbon rims reliable? I know there's some crap carbon rims around, how do I know if it's a good one?
I was thinking about getting one pair of full carbon tubular (3k, 320g, 20h front and 24h rear, 38mm deep), a 240s dt swiss front and rear hub and also dt swiss spokes.
Would that make a good set? Fast, reliable, stiff, strong?
The DT Swiss calculator told me this configuration would weight 1164g.
Kind regards.
I was wondering about building custom wheels and I have no experience with that subject. Is it better or not than buying factory ones?
I've been looking at ebay and there are some carbon rims. Are those 'non-brand' carbon rims reliable? I know there's some crap carbon rims around, how do I know if it's a good one?
I was thinking about getting one pair of full carbon tubular (3k, 320g, 20h front and 24h rear, 38mm deep), a 240s dt swiss front and rear hub and also dt swiss spokes.
Would that make a good set? Fast, reliable, stiff, strong?
The DT Swiss calculator told me this configuration would weight 1164g.
Kind regards.
#2
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In general today, prebuilt wheels are less expensive. The allure of building your own wheels is that you can customize them any way you want, and the pride of riding on your own craftsmanship. I don't know anything about the no-name carbon rims, but do you have any experience with tubulars? What do you plan on using them for? In my personal opinion, tubulars aren't worth the hassle (fixing a flat is more involved than clinchers) for everyday riding, but are great for racing.
Post your weight and intended use for the wheels to get better recommendations.
Post your weight and intended use for the wheels to get better recommendations.
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#3
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1. You could say I prefer custom...but I am biased.
2. It isn't as easy as i think you are currently thinking it is, but it isn't rocket science either.
3. don't rush it, read up on it and know where to look for guidance.
4. They won't build up that light. Almost looks like you didn't add the weight of the spokes or nipples. Regardless .....sub 1300k tubulars built using non-branded rims from ebay....have fun with those. I have had my hands on a few that people have brought me and ......yeah.
5. There are a lot of options out there that will allow you to get into a durable carbon wheelset for a price that is less than you would figure. Not trying to shill myself here....there are others as well. In these cases you don't have to guess about what will or won't work and hope for the best.
6. If you want to build your own wheelset - start with a set that is easier tobuild - has less risk. Go with proven builds and known components. Build it and see what you learn. Ride it and learn how what you do impacts how you ride. Then wen you are happy go sell that set and build a new one. Next thing you know you might become a custom wheel builder.
7. Enjoy - and learn that no one else can spec a wheel for you better than you can spec a wheel for yourself - except maybe a builder who rides with you and knows you well.
2. It isn't as easy as i think you are currently thinking it is, but it isn't rocket science either.
3. don't rush it, read up on it and know where to look for guidance.
4. They won't build up that light. Almost looks like you didn't add the weight of the spokes or nipples. Regardless .....sub 1300k tubulars built using non-branded rims from ebay....have fun with those. I have had my hands on a few that people have brought me and ......yeah.
5. There are a lot of options out there that will allow you to get into a durable carbon wheelset for a price that is less than you would figure. Not trying to shill myself here....there are others as well. In these cases you don't have to guess about what will or won't work and hope for the best.
6. If you want to build your own wheelset - start with a set that is easier tobuild - has less risk. Go with proven builds and known components. Build it and see what you learn. Ride it and learn how what you do impacts how you ride. Then wen you are happy go sell that set and build a new one. Next thing you know you might become a custom wheel builder.
7. Enjoy - and learn that no one else can spec a wheel for you better than you can spec a wheel for yourself - except maybe a builder who rides with you and knows you well.
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It was cheaper to buy built wheels from one of the BF group buys than to buy hoops and spokes (even before you talk about hubs) from ebay. If you want to do it for the experience or because you want better hubs go ahead but it's not likely to save you any money
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As far as cost i never started saving money until I finally had wholesale agreements and was a dealer/distributor for product. Even then it barely covers labor.
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Agree with other posters that it won't save you much money if any over pre-built wheels but it's a good skill to learn and it's fun! I take a lot of pride in riding on wheels that I built.
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I've been thinking about doing this as well, but certainly not to save $. I think my first try is going to be tearing down a wheel I already have and building it back up. I'm looking for a deal on a truing stand, wish I had bought the park I saw on craigslist last year. I know you can do it without one, but I figure it's something that would be nice to have anyway.
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I've been thinking about doing this as well, but certainly not to save $. I think my first try is going to be tearing down a wheel I already have and building it back up. I'm looking for a deal on a truing stand, wish I had bought the park I saw on craigslist last year. I know you can do it without one, but I figure it's something that would be nice to have anyway.
Those Park stands appear fairly regularly on Craigslist, here in the Bay Area. You might want to keep your eye out for a tensiometer.
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I've got a Feedback Sports truing stand. You've got to flip the wheel around to adjust the dish but other than that it's great. You can pick one up for ~$50.
+1 on the Park Tensiometer.
+1 on the Park Tensiometer.
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#10
we be rollin'
https://lenni.info/edd/
I found that Edd calculator to be very cool even though some people here insist you should measure everything and use this one:
https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/spokecalc/
In any case, to save some money, I bought a WTB Freedom Ryder 23 rim and a Shimano Tiagra hub both on sale for a light touring bike I want to build for next summer. I haven't built it yet but I think it's good value for the price.
If you watch the following video, you'll become a rocket scientist.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTb3x...1&feature=fvwp
EDIT: Well, I'm an idiot at posting a video but anyway...
qTb3x5VO69Y]
#91;/SIZE]
I found that Edd calculator to be very cool even though some people here insist you should measure everything and use this one:
https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/spokecalc/
In any case, to save some money, I bought a WTB Freedom Ryder 23 rim and a Shimano Tiagra hub both on sale for a light touring bike I want to build for next summer. I haven't built it yet but I think it's good value for the price.
If you watch the following video, you'll become a rocket scientist.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTb3x...1&feature=fvwp
EDIT: Well, I'm an idiot at posting a video but anyway...
qTb3x5VO69Y]
Last edited by hybridbkrdr; 01-15-11 at 04:43 AM. Reason: idiot at work...
#11
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Pretty good advice so far.
I'd strongly second the idea of a less challenging build for your first kick at the can. The idea of tearing down and rebuilding a set is a good first step. That way you know the calculations are right and you can focus on the mechanics of the build.
With that under your belt I'd move onto a fresh set of alloy wheels (or rebuild your existing rims with new hubs and spokes or the like). Then I'd jump into carbon.
For carbon there are some decent weight carbon clinchers out there at the moment. I'm on a set with Novatec hubs and Pillar bladed spokes that are a shade under 1500g. They are rock solid and, if I really wanted to, I could shave a few more grams but since they are my training wheels they are fine.
Any way you approach it read up first and have at it.
I'd strongly second the idea of a less challenging build for your first kick at the can. The idea of tearing down and rebuilding a set is a good first step. That way you know the calculations are right and you can focus on the mechanics of the build.
With that under your belt I'd move onto a fresh set of alloy wheels (or rebuild your existing rims with new hubs and spokes or the like). Then I'd jump into carbon.
For carbon there are some decent weight carbon clinchers out there at the moment. I'm on a set with Novatec hubs and Pillar bladed spokes that are a shade under 1500g. They are rock solid and, if I really wanted to, I could shave a few more grams but since they are my training wheels they are fine.
Any way you approach it read up first and have at it.
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I'm looking for some wheels intented for racing only (crits, climbing and granfondos competitions within the year).
I want light, fast and stiff wheels. I like the convienence of a clincher and have never been riding on tubulars so I have a lot of concerns about it.
Yes, I was trying to save some money and also looking for fun building my own wheels. Maybe you guys have no idea how much costs to buy a $1000 dollars wheelset and bring it here (it costs almost a 100% because of custom taxes). It gets way out of my budget (on my currency).
A few days ago I posted about choosing between two brands. Maybe I'm in doubt about which wheelset I'm going to get because of those taxes, because I have only one single shot and I can't miss it, got it?
Maybe I should wait for a sale.
Thank you guys for your help and opinion about it.
I want light, fast and stiff wheels. I like the convienence of a clincher and have never been riding on tubulars so I have a lot of concerns about it.
Yes, I was trying to save some money and also looking for fun building my own wheels. Maybe you guys have no idea how much costs to buy a $1000 dollars wheelset and bring it here (it costs almost a 100% because of custom taxes). It gets way out of my budget (on my currency).
A few days ago I posted about choosing between two brands. Maybe I'm in doubt about which wheelset I'm going to get because of those taxes, because I have only one single shot and I can't miss it, got it?
Maybe I should wait for a sale.
Thank you guys for your help and opinion about it.
#13
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It is a lot less money to ship all the parts of a wheel in one box than it is to ship built wheels. If you want to build your own wheels this would be the way to go. Buy the parts and build them yourself.
Crit wheels, climbing wheels and wheels for doing long distance are all not the same. This is asking a lot from one set of wheels.
Also, what is your weight?
For your budget you should be able to order some carbon clinchers and build them into decent hubs with quality spokes and nipples. You should be able to get the set under 1500g no problem and close to 1400 grams if you tried a little bit.
Crit wheels, climbing wheels and wheels for doing long distance are all not the same. This is asking a lot from one set of wheels.
Also, what is your weight?
For your budget you should be able to order some carbon clinchers and build them into decent hubs with quality spokes and nipples. You should be able to get the set under 1500g no problem and close to 1400 grams if you tried a little bit.
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If this is your first wheel build, you should definitely pull apart and rebuild an old wheel first... and then read up before lacing up.
Also, you need a tension meter for wheels under 28h; the higher tension required is too hard to judge by hand, and that's if you're experienced.
Also, you need a tension meter for wheels under 28h; the higher tension required is too hard to judge by hand, and that's if you're experienced.