znomit

The Zebralight interface is quite interesting. There are 12 different levels, plus 4 strobe modes. The UI sounds confusing until you try it.

• Press and hold to cycle from Low, Medium and High, release at the desired level to set. When press and hold, the light always cycle from Low to High regardless which level you are currently in.
• Double click to toggle and select between the two sub-levels for that main level. Sub-level selections for the 3 main levels are memorized after the light is turned off and through battery changes.
• The second sub-level (H2, M2 and L2) of each main levels can be further programmed to different brightness levels. At a main level, double-click 6 times to start configuration. On subsequent double-clicks the light will cycle through different brightness levels. Short click to turn off the light when finishing configurations. The selections for the second sub-levels are memorized after the light is turned off and through battery changes.

• User Selectable Levels: 3 main levels (High, Medium and Low). Each main level can be programmed to one of its two sub-levels. The second sub-level of the each main levels can be further programmed to different brightness levels.
• Light Output (runtimes)
  • High: H1 1400 Lm (PID, 2.8 hrs) or H2 875 Lm (PID, 2.9 hrs)/502 Lm (PID, 3.2 hrs)/264 Lm (6.3 hrs)
  • Medium: M1 127 Lm (13.8 hrs) or M2 56.4 Lm (28 hrs)/22.9 Lm (2.8 days)/8.5 Lm (7.3 days)
  • Low: L1 2.9 Lm (18.5 days) or L2 0.92 Lm (1.5 months)/0.26 Lm (3 months)/0.07 Lm (4 months)
  • Beacon Strobe Mode: 0.2Hz Beacon at Low / 0.2Hz Beacon at H1 / 4Hz Strobe at H1 / 19Hz Strobe at H1

There's also another mode group where you can set all the H-M-L levels to whatever you want

H600w Mk IV 18650 XHP35 Neutral White Headlamp

noglider 

The description of the zebralight is too complicated to read and ponder! Maybe it would be easier in the hands. What a world.

blue192

I would say if it is a battery powered low lumen light then just on/off and a flashing mode. If it is a higher output rechargeable light then a high, medium, low, and a flashing mode.

bpcyclist

How are you supposed to wear a Zebralight with a bike helmet?

znomit

The new UI with the ability to program all the light levels is a big improvement, eg instead of a double click toggling between different low levels it can toggle from low to high.

• In G6 and G7
  • H1, H2, M1, M2, L1 and L2 can be programmed to any of the 12 available brightness levels

For mounting I use the glow in the dark silicone holder to my helmet.

datlas 

Ask Mr Owl. He knows the correct answer: three.

zacster

My cheap flashlight/headlight has high-medium-low-hi speed blink-SOS. The SOS is wrong, but gets the message across. I mostly use it in medium. The LED is a Cree XM-L2, it is bright, takes a 18650 battery that I've replaced with an Orbtronics 3500mah. I use it more at home as a flashlight than as a bike light so I don't really know the runtime, and when I bike at night I almost always take my bike with the dynamo lights in any case.

sweetcyclists

Thanks for bringing up the Knog. It looks like their PWR light (maybe others?) have the buttonless design. I'm curious if this a good or bad feature, it doesn't seem very intuitive.

CliffordK

I could use a couple.

Low/Medium/High solid.
High Beam Flash??? Maybe medium beam flash.

I'd rather have a super low solid than a low pulse.

CliffordK

Oh...

Forgot the VIDEO CAMERA MODE.

rumrunn6

hmmm ... 4? steady & flash, both w/ 2 power modes

rumrunn6

I got a bigger battery for mine ($60.90)

MagicShine Bike Light Battery, MJ-6102 high Capacity 6 Cell Li-ion Rechargeable Battery for Bike. 7800mah Waterproof Battery for Mountain Bike Lights | Round Plug

Leisesturm

Expensive? I get my MagicShines from Action LED. $50 for the lighthead last year. If that's expensive I don't know. The MS is a knock-off of a $450 Lupine Tesla. Now that's expensive. The battery packs are not proprietary. You can use any battery pack you like and you are not limited to 2x 18650. I use Gemini 4x 18650 and IMO a 2hr runtime at 100% power is amazing! When you consider the amount of light you are putting on the road for that amount of time you should be on your knees after every ride. I've had several MS lightheads over the years and they vary in modes. Last one I got has no flashing mode only full power, 1/2 power and 1/4 power. I put that on my helmet or head strap. The 1/4 power is handy for looking for lost items or sorting our your kit before you take off. On the bike I use the one with the full power, half power and full power blink. I never use the blink. A still older unit had a full power 'sizzle' that was interesting but again, never used on the road. I NEVER worry about what others think of my light. Can *I* see? That's priority. Look at how bright car LED lights have gotten. Is your little 500L (actual) any match for that? And if you are doing it right you will be well to the right of any oncoming traffic. Do you really think they are incapacitated by your light in any way shape or form? Negative. Your lighthead should be no more than 3* or 4* down from dead level. If in doubt use dead level and call it good! Aiming your light into the ground so that drivers will like you smacks of martyrdom. Ideally you will have two lights at night if you ride where its really dark and there isn't a whole lot of lighting infrastructure around. One on your helmet that you can point anywhere on a whim and one on the bars set to a neutral position.

bpcyclist

Thank you very much for this. I do not know the first thing about car headlights. But I do kjnow this, some of them are so bloody bright even on their low beams, that I have significant difficulty seeing until I pass them. No-one has apologized yet. I use three lights of 1000 lumens or more (simultaneouly) and have not had anyone flash brights at me in forever. No complaints from oncoming peds or other cyclists, either. Can't even remember when.

That said, I fear my beloved Cygolite Trion 1300 may be dying finally and so, I am looking for its replacement. I am going to try an StVZO light on the recommendation of some Bike Forumers here. But I did go ahead and research the entire market of >1000 lumen or >maybe 150 lux (or so) sources and I can say, a 2-hour runtime on max is fantastic, when looking at the overall options. Many are in the 90-minute range.

adamrice 

I was thinking some more about this question, and it occurred to me that the correct number of modes should be 1.

With all the smarts we've got in our phones and bike computers these days, it should be possible to build a light that can sense how fast you're going and alter its beam so that you don't outrun it. That senses whether it's daylight, so you only need a "be seen" light, or night, when you need a "see" light. The only mildly tricky part would be getting it set up level in the first place so that the beam throw is correct, and maybe setting a couple preferences.

Amt0571

Low beam, high beam. I don't find the blinking mode useful at all.

I use two cheap ebay lights for riding at night. One with 8 leds that produces a spread and uniform lightning, and another with a single led that concentrates light at one point.

I mount the first on the handlebar and the second on my helmet. This way I have a light always pointing forward, and a more focused light pointing where I'm looking. Really useful for scanning around corners and looking for wild boars and other animals that may cross the road inadvertently while descending at high speed. Also useful in case one of them fails suddenly... Don't want to experience this with a single source of light during descent.

In urban or lit roads and bike lanes, I set the handlebar light at low beam and have the helmet one turned off. When climbing in unlit roads or bike lanes I use both at low beam. When descending I set both to high beam.

I also carry 2 rear lights. One fixed, and another in blinking mode. Spain laws require a fixed light, so I use one to comply with the law, and the blinking one to alert drivers. Useful in case one of them fails too.

79pmooney

My Serfa of over 10 years old has 4 modes. High, medium, low and high/blinking. Never felt it needed more.

More that number of modes, I want a really simple, 1 button push to go between bright and normal. So I can quickly get bright when conditions change and I need to see, like when really bright headlights are coming at me so I can see the road edge before me and a quick way to go from bright to less for courtesy. Every car I've ever owned had that feature. Why is this deemed less important for us cyclists? We don't need to see because our lives are worth less and as for courtesy, well I guess the more that hate us, the better.

I hope a few light manufacturers see this.

Ben

Amt0571

+1 on that low /high button. Having to cycle all modes is not good, especially considering that one of the modes is off, which leaves you blind for a moment.

Richard Cranium

My favorite bike lighting systems always used at least two headlights. I'd leave one light on low at all times and turn on a higher power =longer=throw light as needed.

In addition - if you dont use a helmet light to single out dangerous side line objects and signage then you can still get into trouble.

Never underestimate the inattentiveness of motorists at night - if you can't "beam them" with a spot of light - don't assume they see you......