hutchla

My LBS recommended I replace my chain but when I measured wear using the ruler method it looks fine. Am I missing something or are they recommending unnecessary work?

My chain/cassette are on a CAAD10 105 (5700) and have 2,500 miles on them. Here are a few pictures.

Ruler Full

Ruler Left

Ruler Right

Cassette

I stopped in while on a ride to have them make a basic derailleur adjustment. Maybe that makes me a sucker? Thanks.

2lo8

The chain is sagging because of gravity. You need to put some real tension on the chain to measure it with a ruler. Plastic rulers aren't terribly precise either.

amusingbikes

We use a chain checker tool rather than a ruler. If you have ridden your bike hard with that chain longer than a few hundred miles or longer than 6 months then it is probably stretched. 9s chains arent that expensive and it will make your ride much smoother to get a new one. if you have any doubts then purchase a chain checker from park tools and make sure you always measure a brand new chain prior to the old chain so you can see how they stack up against each other.

2lo8

That would make chain replacements cost about the same as the gasoline driving a compact car mile for mile.

amusingbikes

it wouldn't, 25/gallon at 2.20 gallon, chain is 10-15 soooooo no. then again, i was not the one who told you to replace it. if you were going to do a race tomorrow then it would matter more than if you are just going to continue getting groceries for the next few months.

i dont understand why you would get a custom built bike with 105 components and then gripe about a 10-15$ part.

ltxi

Just replace the damn chain, and thank your LBS mech for bringing you needed it to your attention.

Spoonrobot 

2 things:

1. Send me the link to $10 9 or 10 speed chains plz.

2. "Longer than a few hundred miles"? Get out of here with that nonsense, it's impossible to wear out a road bike chain in 400 miles as a matter of routine.

2lo8

A compact can get over 30mpg city, even higher on the highway. Hybrids are even more efficient. The national average is $2.12. I don't know what kind of 10 speed chain for 5700 you're getting for $10. The actual price is closer to $20. So yes. It doesn't even matter, because you should be able to get at least a couple thousand, not hundred, miles from a chain.

fietsbob

Since you asked .. go to it! Early saves cassette wear. too late you need Both.

FullGas

use a steel ruler.

don't listen to what the mopes at a shop say.

wipe your chain off, it looks like it could use it.

AlexCyclistRoch

I really can't see any stretch.

wphamilton

Seriously guys? A plastic ruler is fine for measuring the chain, or an 8.5x11 piece of paper for that matter. There is no stretch on the chain, not enough sag to make a stretch (though maybe measure the top stretch not bottom.) Ignore the bike shop, KMC 9 speed chain is $12.50, it wouldn't hurt to have it on hand for when you need it.

hutchla

Hey, thanks for all your input. I did check my plastic ruler against my metal measuring tape and they matched exactly.

I also re-measured my chain, this time the top of the chain while I put some pressure on the pedal to make the chain taught. Looks like there's some stretch but it seems under 1/16".

I guess it's a good idea to replace the chain. Now I need to figure out if I want to try to do it myself or have the LBS do it. They want $40-$50 for a KMC or Shimano chain and about $18 to install the chain and adjust the derailleurs. Seems like I could get a chain and chain breaker for a lot less.

T Stew

+1 I barely even think about cleaning and lubing it that often. Speaking of which, I have about 300 miles now on my bike I built at the start of July, might be time for its first clean and lube, but the factory lube still seems fine it's nice a silent running still.

AlexCyclistRoch

If there was under 1/16" elongation, then, yeah, he jumped the gun a bit.

amusingbikes

hey hutchla i'm sorry I exagerated earlier without understanding your initial post.

While I did know that you were referring to a road bike, i didnt realize it was a 10 sp, so chains for 10 sp bikes are more, about 40-50$ sounds about right, especially if it is a shimano chain. I dunno about the labor cost. Seems rather steep for something you could do with a 20$ tool. if you do get the tool make sure its 10sp rated, not all pins on chain tools are.

What i really wanted to say is that it is in fact possible to stretch a chain after a few hundred miles. I have done it. However, i did it by only riding a DS bike on a mountain bike trail with hills and by popping wheelies all over the place. So your experience may be different. 2500 miles seems like a lot.

Please get yourself a chain checker if you really have more doubts and check it yourself instead of using a ruler.

SquidPuppet

What? And What?

Chains don't stretch. Ever.

Rulers are more accurate than chain checking tools, which are notoriously off.

The chain does need to be taut when taking the reading though.

SHBR

Deja vu.

Wilfred Laurier

IME chain checkers like the park one are complete crapola. I have seen new-in-box chains measure as 75% worn. A ruler (even a plastic one) is a much more reliable.

I see three possible scenarios that would lead to the shop recommending a replacement -

1. They used a Park chain checker and don't know what crap they are
B. They measured with a ruler and saw the chain was a bit worn, but not to the point where you would have trouble with a new one meshing with the cogs, and they are being a bit overly cautious with their reccomendation.
iii. They are trying to scam the OP, risking spoiling their reputation and chasing a customer away forever to squeeze an extra $30 into the cash register.

rm -rf

Measuring
I measure from the left edge of the link pins. It's easier than trying to find the center of the pin.

Installing
Installing is easy. You won't need to adjust the derailleurs, unless they are already off a little from normal shift cable wear.

10 and 11speed chains (maybe 9 speed too?) have pins that are flush to the surface of the link plate. So the ends are slightly mushroomed, like a rivet head, to make the chain strong enough.

So you have to use the supplied special pin to join the chain. And some 11 speed chains need an expensive chain tool that spreads the head of the installing pin.

Instead, I always use a quick link. Sram Powerlinks are inexpensive, and easy to install. The quick links are strong and fool proof. Get the right one, a 10 or 11 speed version.

Remember, the quick link substitutes for one of the links, so the chain needs to be one link shorter than the old chain without a quick link. And the new chain needs an inner plate on both ends, so shorten the correct end of the chain!

If the old chain is the correct length, I lay the old chain down on the floor (wipe it clean first!) and put the new chain next to it. A nail through one end of each chain lets you line them up quickly. You'll see the wear, the old chain will be a bit longer, but way less than the length of a link.

Make sure you thread the new chain through the derailleur arm correctly. "A friend" got the chain outside the tab in the middle of the arm one time. oops!

SquidPuppet

Good one

2lo8

There's also the fact that he said the chain has 2,500 miles on it, which is a reasonable mileage to replace, especially if the customer only comes in every 2,500 miles.

Z953

I bought my first road bike on a whim back in early May; a little over a month after buying it I decided to upgrade from a Sora to 105 Groupset myself. Bought a bunch of tools including a chain breaker; I watched a video on how to use the chain breaker (and all of the other tools) and went at it. The Allez Sport is running just fine. Saved money doing it myself even after buying tools.

I got my hands on an '04 Specialized Roubaix frame w/forks three weeks ago. I got a takeoff 105 Groupset (and all of the other parts) for it and installed everything. The Roubaix is running great. Saved money doing it myself especially since I already had tools.

Waiting for delivery of a '10 Roubaix frame w/forks and I'm going to move everything from the '04 Roubaix to the '10. I'm going to save money because I'm going to do it myself with the tools that I already have.

It's a fricken bike chain--not a rocket or even a car engine. Buy the chain breaker (I suggest the one by Park Tools, I'm very happy with mine), buy a Shimano chain (both from eBay), install the chain (watch a YouTube video if you don't know how to) and save yourself a bunch of time and money. Really, it's not that complicated.

fietsbob

Leave the chain on longer insures you will also Have to Buy a new cassette Too .

Replace the chain 'prematurely' and there will be several chain swaps before you need to Buy that Pricy cassette.


You Pick


./.

Camilo

That's how I learned, except it was books w/ diagrams and words instead of Youtube. Youtube is better, but no essential.

As for the chain, I'll go one better than the above: buy a Sram chain, they come with a quick link which is much easier and much, much, much more fool-proof than the Shimano replacement pin system.