Is there a way to run 700cs on a bike that takes 559 w/o using vbrakes?
04-30-18, 07:10 PM
#1
Rhapsodic Laviathan
Thread Starter
Is there a way to run 700cs on a bike that takes 559 w/o using vbrakes?
I'm so dissapointed with the fact my schwinn probe can clear 700Cs but a set of cantis(as I had assumed/feared) wouldn't work. Personally I hate Vbrakes, which I know would work to use 700s on this frame. Now that I'm thinking... I could probably use sidepulls on the frame, but what could I do with the canti bosses if I did, as question number two.
04-30-18, 08:11 PM
#3
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Putting 700c wheels/tires on a hard tail mtn bike won’t turn it into a road bike, even if you can figure out a kludge brake mod that won’t get you killed. Two better options to make your bike more road-friendly:
1. Get smooth tread 26 inch tires for your current wheels (or a second set, if you want to keep the originals for off-road use). There are lots of options available, and you’ll be able to run wide tires that roll faster and more comfortably over a variety of road and path surfaces.
2. Convert your bike to 650b, if there is enough brake reach to support the larger wheels. I’ve done this on a couple of older 26 inch bikes with excellent results. I used V brakes on one because they had more reach than the original cantis and long reach calipers (Tektro 559) but that choice will be frame-dependent. One benefit of a 26 inch to 650b conversion is that the already high bottom bracket of a mtn bike won't be raised nearly as much as with 700c. Another is toe overlap will be less likely, or at least less serious.
1. Get smooth tread 26 inch tires for your current wheels (or a second set, if you want to keep the originals for off-road use). There are lots of options available, and you’ll be able to run wide tires that roll faster and more comfortably over a variety of road and path surfaces.
2. Convert your bike to 650b, if there is enough brake reach to support the larger wheels. I’ve done this on a couple of older 26 inch bikes with excellent results. I used V brakes on one because they had more reach than the original cantis and long reach calipers (Tektro 559) but that choice will be frame-dependent. One benefit of a 26 inch to 650b conversion is that the already high bottom bracket of a mtn bike won't be raised nearly as much as with 700c. Another is toe overlap will be less likely, or at least less serious.
04-30-18, 08:50 PM
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Putting a 700c wheel on a bike designed for 26" wheels would move the brake track 31.5 mm. I doubt there's any cantilever or v-brake that would accommodate such a huge difference. There are clamp-on cantilever brake bosses, but if you want to go that route, it'll take some searching to find some that might be compatible with your frame & forks.
Brake adapters won't do anything for the other potential issues you could run into, like the change in trail and how that might affect handling.
Brake adapters won't do anything for the other potential issues you could run into, like the change in trail and how that might affect handling.
04-30-18, 10:37 PM
#5
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I'm so dissapointed with the fact my schwinn probe can clear 700Cs but a set of cantis(as I had assumed/feared) wouldn't work. Personally I hate Vbrakes, which I know would work to use 700s on this frame. Now that I'm thinking... I could probably use sidepulls on the frame, but what could I do with the canti bosses if I did, as question number two.
Why are you trying to stick 700c wheels on a 26er bike?
04-30-18, 10:47 PM
#6
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+1. Buy some Compass Naches Pass (or Rat Trap Pass if you have enough room) tires and you will be loving the 26" life again. 
05-01-18, 04:10 AM
#7
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If you're really set on 700c on a 26" frame, there are a few ways to do it effectively - all using hub brakes instead of rim brakes.
disc brakes (usually need new fork for front, rear is more difficult with welding). Could change front fork and use coaster in the rear.
stirmey-archer (or other, but Can't think of good ones) drum brakes
disc brakes (usually need new fork for front, rear is more difficult with welding). Could change front fork and use coaster in the rear.
stirmey-archer (or other, but Can't think of good ones) drum brakes
05-01-18, 04:33 AM
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Long reach road calipers should work. Best to go with an old-style nutted one in back, as you need a 90 degree drill to run recessed back there. Pretty easy to drill out back of fork for recessed.
Here's the setup I have on my Park Pre
Assuming your bike is like this one, should be no problem.
Here's the setup I have on my Park Pre
Assuming your bike is like this one, should be no problem.
Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 05-01-18 at 04:42 AM.
05-01-18, 07:20 AM
#9
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When I built my fixed gear conversion I fitted 700c wheels onto an old mountain bike that had previously had 559 wheels. A standard caliper brake fit perfectly from the fork crown reflector hole to the rim. The back looks like it would fit too but I didn't fit one because it's a fixed gear.
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My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
05-01-18, 01:05 PM
#10
Rhapsodic Laviathan
Thread Starter
Putting 700c wheels/tires on a hard tail mtn bike won’t turn it into a road bike, even if you can figure out a kludge brake mod that won’t get you killed. Two better options to make your bike more road-friendly:
1. Get smooth tread 26 inch tires for your current wheels (or a second set, if you want to keep the originals for off-road use). There are lots of options available, and you’ll be able to run wide tires that roll faster and more comfortably over a variety of road and path surfaces.
2. Convert your bike to 650b, if there is enough brake reach to support the larger wheels. I’ve done this on a couple of older 26 inch bikes with excellent results. I used V brakes on one because they had more reach than the original cantis and long reach calipers (Tektro 559) but that choice will be frame-dependent. One benefit of a 26 inch to 650b conversion is that the already high bottom bracket of a mtn bike won't be raised nearly as much as with 700c. Another is toe overlap will be less likely, or at least less serious.
1. Get smooth tread 26 inch tires for your current wheels (or a second set, if you want to keep the originals for off-road use). There are lots of options available, and you’ll be able to run wide tires that roll faster and more comfortably over a variety of road and path surfaces.
2. Convert your bike to 650b, if there is enough brake reach to support the larger wheels. I’ve done this on a couple of older 26 inch bikes with excellent results. I used V brakes on one because they had more reach than the original cantis and long reach calipers (Tektro 559) but that choice will be frame-dependent. One benefit of a 26 inch to 650b conversion is that the already high bottom bracket of a mtn bike won't be raised nearly as much as with 700c. Another is toe overlap will be less likely, or at least less serious.
05-01-18, 01:24 PM
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05-01-18, 01:31 PM
#12
Banned
Drum brake hub wheels can be retrofitted with all fittings strapping on, no brazing needed,
but you probably count grammes so it adds too much weight..
cover them with a "thread protector", which is essentially a mass produced plastidip cover for threaded things to remain undamaged in shipping..
...
but you probably count grammes so it adds too much weight..
but what could I do with the canti bosses if I did ..
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 05-01-18 at 01:36 PM.
05-01-18, 01:31 PM
#13
Rhapsodic Laviathan
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Since I can't post a picture. It came in three sizes, this one, like the one I had before it, are the largest size. My old one had the wheelset off my old Mongoose XR250, with a kenda kwest in the front and a kenda 838 rear and had a LeTour crank. My reason for wanting 700Cs on it, is I have basically a wheelset for it, an 8speed rear and derailure I'd otherwise have no use for.
Schwinn Probe
Schwinn Probe
05-01-18, 03:25 PM
#14
High Plains Luddite
Here's something that I don't think has been mentioned yet in this thread - brakes similar to V-brakes that apparently work with 26", 27.5", and 700c wheels: https://paulcomp.com/shop/components/motolite/
And a video about them: https://vimeo.com/158260982
I have no affiliation with that company, nor have I tried that product, but thought it was relevant to this discussion.
And a video about them: https://vimeo.com/158260982
I have no affiliation with that company, nor have I tried that product, but thought it was relevant to this discussion.
05-01-18, 03:31 PM
#15
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2. When I built my fix, I cut off candy bosses with a Dremel and smoothed out the nubs with a file.
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05-01-18, 04:56 PM
#16
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If you can't find a rim brake that will work, you could use hub brakes. Unless your frame/fork is designed for disc brakes,that would mean drum brakes. Sturmey-Archer makes a few models.
05-01-18, 05:48 PM
#17
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Here's something that I don't think has been mentioned yet in this thread - brakes similar to V-brakes that apparently work with 26", 27.5", and 700c wheels: https://paulcomp.com/shop/components/motolite/
And a video about them: https://vimeo.com/158260982
I have no affiliation with that company, nor have I tried that product, but thought it was relevant to this discussion.
And a video about them: https://vimeo.com/158260982
I have no affiliation with that company, nor have I tried that product, but thought it was relevant to this discussion.
Another option are ye olde Avid Tri-aligns. Unfortunately the Schwinn's original brake levers aren't gonna work that well with V-brakes. They'll be short pull caliper/canti pull levers.
05-01-18, 11:45 PM
#18
Rhapsodic Laviathan
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05-01-18, 11:46 PM
#19
Rhapsodic Laviathan
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05-09-18, 10:13 PM
#20
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05-10-18, 08:53 AM
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While those Paul Motolites could be a valid option for some people in a similar situation, I somehow doubt Jax is going to spend well over $200 for brakes on a Schwinn Probe. ;-)
05-10-18, 05:14 PM
#22
Rhapsodic Laviathan
Thread Starter
Yeah...no... I'm just going to run somr sidepulls and figure out if there's something trick I can do with the brake mounts, like make something that bolts on to hold a headlight.
05-10-18, 05:21 PM
#23
Senior Member
I converted a Raleigh Tangent from 559 to 700. Used long reach brakes. The BB was quite high, kind of handled like a truck in the corners, but I commuted for 2 years like that. Turned out to be a great ride.
05-10-18, 10:03 PM
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you can use the brake bosses to mount a front rack, nitto makes one that fits connects to the front bosses.
05-11-18, 12:24 AM
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Here is the Litespeed build
Frame came without a fork, so I used a road fork.
Rear cable stop for cantis, so I re-used the cable stop for vintage center pull brakes. I had to drill the rear brake bridge which was on the bike, but not drilled.
For now, I've left the rear cantis bosses in place. I suppose I could grind them off, but didn't want to do it yet. I may do some further mods to the frame later. Or, perhaps I'll decide to build a MTB out of it someday (which is a good reason not to do many irreversible changes).
135mm spacing of the rear triangle is a bit of a pain. It means no swapping wheels between bikes.
Frame came without a fork, so I used a road fork.
Rear cable stop for cantis, so I re-used the cable stop for vintage center pull brakes. I had to drill the rear brake bridge which was on the bike, but not drilled.
For now, I've left the rear cantis bosses in place. I suppose I could grind them off, but didn't want to do it yet. I may do some further mods to the frame later. Or, perhaps I'll decide to build a MTB out of it someday (which is a good reason not to do many irreversible changes).
135mm spacing of the rear triangle is a bit of a pain. It means no swapping wheels between bikes.