Dura Ace 7400 Slip
10-13-19, 11:12 PM
#1
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Dura Ace 7400 Slip
I will first apologize to those who have seen and replied to similar posts. I assure you I have read many, and though some are similar, I still don't have the answers I need for my particular issue.
Bike: I bought a 1987 Schwinn Paramount with a complete and shiny Dura Ace 7400 groupset for a very very reasonable price. After inspecting the bike carefully, I determined that the dust and dirt helped prove this was a lucky "barn find", and that the minor paint scratches would not deter from the quality of the bike at all. After getting the bike back to the house, I decided to clean it, lube it, and take it for a ride.
Issue: After only about 10 miles, I began to feel a little slip when peddling with some extra force. This seemed to progress, and soon I was slipping about a quarter of a rotation. It seemed to be worse after first letting the free hub spin (coasting) and then applying force on the pedals. I know knew there was a little issue with the freehub that would need to be addressed.
Attempted Resolution: I am by no means a bicycle mechanic; I am more of a mechanically inclined hobbyist with a decent tool collection. Regardless, I decided I would handle this issue myself. The rear wheel is know sitting in my garage, mostly disassembled with the exception of the freehub. I ran into a little bit of an issue when I realized I didn't have the tools necessary to complete the removal of the freehub. Naturally I took to the internet. I have read many forums (some like this one) regarding the removal of the freehub, the use of the TL-FH10 (which is $74.99 plus shipping on eBay), fabricating a tool out of a socket, or just cleaning and greasing with white lightning.
While at work, I decided to take an 11/16 socket and i ground it down leaving the two (of 4) prongs needed to disassemble the hub. After putting a little force into a LH turn, the socket teeth broke loose, and my newly fabricated spanner socket too was broken. I then took to the forums again, and am still left unsure what to do.
Request for Help: I am now thinking just cleaning and lubing the Freehub might be my best option. I have sprayed WD-40 followed by White Lightning lube a few times, and the freehub seems to engaging properly now, but it doesn't sound right. It also feels rough. Will I be able to get the freehub back to a good condition, by only using WD-40 and White Lightning, or should I purchase the TL-FH10 from eBay and a new freehub and replace it. Obviously I would prefer the cheaper method. Thanks
Bike: I bought a 1987 Schwinn Paramount with a complete and shiny Dura Ace 7400 groupset for a very very reasonable price. After inspecting the bike carefully, I determined that the dust and dirt helped prove this was a lucky "barn find", and that the minor paint scratches would not deter from the quality of the bike at all. After getting the bike back to the house, I decided to clean it, lube it, and take it for a ride.
Issue: After only about 10 miles, I began to feel a little slip when peddling with some extra force. This seemed to progress, and soon I was slipping about a quarter of a rotation. It seemed to be worse after first letting the free hub spin (coasting) and then applying force on the pedals. I know knew there was a little issue with the freehub that would need to be addressed.
Attempted Resolution: I am by no means a bicycle mechanic; I am more of a mechanically inclined hobbyist with a decent tool collection. Regardless, I decided I would handle this issue myself. The rear wheel is know sitting in my garage, mostly disassembled with the exception of the freehub. I ran into a little bit of an issue when I realized I didn't have the tools necessary to complete the removal of the freehub. Naturally I took to the internet. I have read many forums (some like this one) regarding the removal of the freehub, the use of the TL-FH10 (which is $74.99 plus shipping on eBay), fabricating a tool out of a socket, or just cleaning and greasing with white lightning.
While at work, I decided to take an 11/16 socket and i ground it down leaving the two (of 4) prongs needed to disassemble the hub. After putting a little force into a LH turn, the socket teeth broke loose, and my newly fabricated spanner socket too was broken. I then took to the forums again, and am still left unsure what to do.
Request for Help: I am now thinking just cleaning and lubing the Freehub might be my best option. I have sprayed WD-40 followed by White Lightning lube a few times, and the freehub seems to engaging properly now, but it doesn't sound right. It also feels rough. Will I be able to get the freehub back to a good condition, by only using WD-40 and White Lightning, or should I purchase the TL-FH10 from eBay and a new freehub and replace it. Obviously I would prefer the cheaper method. Thanks
Last edited by Homebrew01; 10-16-19 at 08:28 AM. Reason: Readability
10-14-19, 03:09 AM
#2
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Use the WD40. I wouldn't put White Lighten lube in there.... that's wax. Will make it worse IMO.
Put wheel back on and try it.
Put wheel back on and try it.
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10-14-19, 03:29 AM
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Removal of the freehub body might allow you to soak it a little better in WD40 or mineral spirits. Since you don’t possess the TL-FH10, you seem to be on the right track getting the freehub operating again.
I was with you when you say you sprayed WD40 in there. This acts as a solvent to loosen up dried grease that most likely is making your pawls stick. Then you say you used White Lightning. And why did you choose White Lightening? I thought White Lightning was a wax based chain lube. It deposits paraffin wax using a solvent carrier to get into tight spaces then the solvent evaporates allowing the wax to solidify. This is most likely the cause of the funny sound you are hearing.
I would flush the White Lightning out then put drizzle some medium or thick oil such as motor oil or Pedro’s Synth Lube into the crack between the FH body and the bearing race and spin it in.
I would imagine the sound would would become more normal then and the slippage would stop.
Freehub body disassembly tools are being sold on eBay very affordably by some Chinese vendors. I bought one for under 10$ and it appears to be properly designed.
I was with you when you say you sprayed WD40 in there. This acts as a solvent to loosen up dried grease that most likely is making your pawls stick. Then you say you used White Lightning. And why did you choose White Lightening? I thought White Lightning was a wax based chain lube. It deposits paraffin wax using a solvent carrier to get into tight spaces then the solvent evaporates allowing the wax to solidify. This is most likely the cause of the funny sound you are hearing.
I would flush the White Lightning out then put drizzle some medium or thick oil such as motor oil or Pedro’s Synth Lube into the crack between the FH body and the bearing race and spin it in.
I would imagine the sound would would become more normal then and the slippage would stop.
Freehub body disassembly tools are being sold on eBay very affordably by some Chinese vendors. I bought one for under 10$ and it appears to be properly designed.
10-14-19, 05:58 AM
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Once I removed the 7403 freehub from the hub, I cleaned it out with brake cleaner, and then let it soak in Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil for a couple of days. Took it out and let it drain for another couple of days, and installed it. Works perfectly, and should be lubed for life.
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10-14-19, 10:51 AM
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