What's a good bike that will allow some of those saddles?
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What's a good bike that will allow some of those saddles?
Well Utility Cyclers, I have been browsing, reading and posting in the Clydesdale forums quite a bit, and was about to purchase a new bike... Specialized CrossTrail... but then... as the money came together the more and more time I was spending looking at these awesome utility bikes.
So, how can you tell if your bike can take some of these saddles (bags etc...) and what are some decent current models that can hold them? About 500$ would be my budget, but I am willing to set more aside if needed.
Also, the ability to be confused with a hobo sounds fun.
So, how can you tell if your bike can take some of these saddles (bags etc...) and what are some decent current models that can hold them? About 500$ would be my budget, but I am willing to set more aside if needed.
Also, the ability to be confused with a hobo sounds fun.
Last edited by notacceptable; 04-01-10 at 01:39 PM.
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you can put saddle bags on nearly any bike with moderately long chainstays but the important issue, besides your budget, is how much do you see yourself carrying and over what kind of terrain? The Cross Trail fits that description as do many, many other bikes. Where some bikes might work and others not work could be if you're especially heavy thinking of carrying lots of weight.
If you want to get the most for your money check out REIs sale, if you're a member Novara bikes are 20%off and a membership only costs $20. I'm not a fan of cheap bikes with shocks so if you are looking for a lot of bang for your buck there's this bike with lots of money left over for racks/bags.
https://www.rei.com/product/791144#
If you want to look like a hobo get any cheap mtn. bike and tie a hand truck or grocery cart to it. Otherwise a Worksman Bicycle with big Wald baskets would work.
https://worksmancycles.com/shopsite_s.../indbikes.html
If you want to get the most for your money check out REIs sale, if you're a member Novara bikes are 20%off and a membership only costs $20. I'm not a fan of cheap bikes with shocks so if you are looking for a lot of bang for your buck there's this bike with lots of money left over for racks/bags.
https://www.rei.com/product/791144#
If you want to look like a hobo get any cheap mtn. bike and tie a hand truck or grocery cart to it. Otherwise a Worksman Bicycle with big Wald baskets would work.
https://worksmancycles.com/shopsite_s.../indbikes.html
Last edited by LeeG; 04-01-10 at 02:18 PM.
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One consideration in choosing a bike for cargo use is to make sure that it has eyelets on the seat stays and dropouts for mounting a good sturdy rack. Most commuter and touring bikes, as well as many older pre suspension MTBs, will but road bikes will not. Double eyelets on the rear dropouts easily allow mounting both fenders and a rack. P clamps can be used but many people find that they do not provide as good a mounting as proper mounting eyelets. They cannot be used to clamp to carbon fiber either.
Long chain stays are also recommended to allow heel clearance when shopping panniers or baskets are used.
Eyelets on the fork blades about mid way down the legs allow mounting a front rack easily too. No suspension front fork is intended for a front rack that I know of. The same is true for rear suspension frames as regards a rear rack.
As for looking like a bum, never wear a helmet or other riding gear. Attach everything to the bike with bungees and rope. The bike should be dirty and show total lack of maintenance, as should you.
If you want to carry a reasonable amount do not try to fit a seatpost mounted rack. They are for light loads only and generally sit too high and can be unstable, tending to swing around the seatpost.
Long chain stays are also recommended to allow heel clearance when shopping panniers or baskets are used.
Eyelets on the fork blades about mid way down the legs allow mounting a front rack easily too. No suspension front fork is intended for a front rack that I know of. The same is true for rear suspension frames as regards a rear rack.
As for looking like a bum, never wear a helmet or other riding gear. Attach everything to the bike with bungees and rope. The bike should be dirty and show total lack of maintenance, as should you.
If you want to carry a reasonable amount do not try to fit a seatpost mounted rack. They are for light loads only and generally sit too high and can be unstable, tending to swing around the seatpost.
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Thanks guys. That Novara Buzz looks cool, I will check it out this weekend. Thanks for the tips, the hobo bit was a bit of a joke reference to some of the other topics I saw in this forum hahah.
Thanks for all of the terminology especially, I have been able to look up what exactly I need to mount things now!
Thanks for all of the terminology especially, I have been able to look up what exactly I need to mount things now!
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I will add that if you want to carry sizeable loads take a look at the longtail configuration bikes such as te Surly Big Dummy, Kona Ute, Yuba Mundo or an Xtracycle conversion.
They handle much better when loaded than a shorter wheelbase bike based on my experience with my Big Dummy. Outside your listed budget, though you might come close by doing an Xtracycle conversion to an older pre suspension MTB.
They handle much better when loaded than a shorter wheelbase bike based on my experience with my Big Dummy. Outside your listed budget, though you might come close by doing an Xtracycle conversion to an older pre suspension MTB.
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Just an update, I went with the Novera Buzz V today. I went to REI and after riding the bike I knew it was the one I wanted. I mean I enjoyed the cross trail, but after I rode this one for about 15 minutes, I knew I had to have it.
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One consideration in choosing a bike for cargo use is to make sure that it has eyelets on the seat stays and dropouts for mounting a good sturdy rack. Most commuter and touring bikes, as well as many older pre suspension MTBs, will but road bikes will not. Double eyelets on the rear dropouts easily allow mounting both fenders and a rack.