new to cx and gravelbiking. hoping for advice on my first gravel build.
#1
S'toon trail rider!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Saskatoon, SK
Posts: 451
Bikes: 2011 Norco Mountaineer(XC/Trails), 2011 Jamis Commuter1(commuter)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
new to cx and gravelbiking. hoping for advice on my first gravel build.
i generally do xc mtb but have done abit of roadie. i found straight up road to be a little boring so i sold her :'(
none the less, ive decided to build a "gravel bike", but kinda keep it on the cheaper side just to assure myself i like it.
i found this jamis commuter1 on kijiji for free so i picked it up. light aluminum frame w/ steel fork, straight 700cx32s, needs a new drivetrain tho.
i got an old deore xt and a regular 7spd freewheel for it since im not a huge fan of the megarange one on it already. ill either rebuild or replace the bb and keep the old single ring crank.
debating wither to keep the grip shift and fish it onto a drop bar or get an old skool thumbie or even spring for a bar end shifter.
the cockpit is going entirely to a quill adapter, a straight threadless stem with some reach(maybe 110mm), and a pair of wide drops (or whatever drops i can find on the cheap for the time being).
the question is, am i barking up the wrong tree for what im looking to get into? is there any other tips you guys can throw in to make my 1x7 hybrid to gravel grinder conversion abit more legit (inb4 a new bike lol).
im just trying to get into a new catagory of biking on the cheap so if i like it then i can go play with the big boys.
none the less, ive decided to build a "gravel bike", but kinda keep it on the cheaper side just to assure myself i like it.
i found this jamis commuter1 on kijiji for free so i picked it up. light aluminum frame w/ steel fork, straight 700cx32s, needs a new drivetrain tho.
i got an old deore xt and a regular 7spd freewheel for it since im not a huge fan of the megarange one on it already. ill either rebuild or replace the bb and keep the old single ring crank.
debating wither to keep the grip shift and fish it onto a drop bar or get an old skool thumbie or even spring for a bar end shifter.
the cockpit is going entirely to a quill adapter, a straight threadless stem with some reach(maybe 110mm), and a pair of wide drops (or whatever drops i can find on the cheap for the time being).
the question is, am i barking up the wrong tree for what im looking to get into? is there any other tips you guys can throw in to make my 1x7 hybrid to gravel grinder conversion abit more legit (inb4 a new bike lol).
im just trying to get into a new catagory of biking on the cheap so if i like it then i can go play with the big boys.
#2
Have bike, will travel
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Lake Geneva, WI
Posts: 12,284
Bikes: Ridley Helium SLX, Canyon Endurance SL, De Rosa Professional, Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra, Schwinn Paramount (1 painted, 1 chrome), Peugeot PX10, Serotta Nova X, Simoncini Cyclocross Special, Raleigh Roker, Pedal Force CG2 and CX2
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 910 Post(s)
Liked 288 Times
in
158 Posts
If you end up selecting a flat bar or Trekking handlebars, these are a great shifter, brake lever from Shimano: ST-EF65 Shift/Brake Set. There are multiple versions of this model. I installed these on a trekking bar on a touring bike.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...himano+ST+EF65
These are ideal. They are sold in 7, 8 or 9 speed version's and they are sold in black or silver. Most importantly, they are sold in 2 finger and 4 finger version's. ONLY THE 4 FINGER VERSION IS ADJUSTABLE FOR CANTILEVER OR V-BRAKES.
Also be aware that some sellers are selling OEM units, without packaging or the full cable set that comes in the retail packages.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...himano+ST+EF65
These are ideal. They are sold in 7, 8 or 9 speed version's and they are sold in black or silver. Most importantly, they are sold in 2 finger and 4 finger version's. ONLY THE 4 FINGER VERSION IS ADJUSTABLE FOR CANTILEVER OR V-BRAKES.
Also be aware that some sellers are selling OEM units, without packaging or the full cable set that comes in the retail packages.
__________________
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
#3
Banned
Snapping Off the RD like that has to have buggered up the hanger on the frame .. have a Bike Shop check it with the alignment tool ..
Cant see it for the Dark and Dirt, But, Forward rear fender clearance suggests a Horizontal Dropout,
making a derailleur less IGH wheel a Good Option.. Shimano 8 speed are pretty reliable
if given occasional tear down and re Greasing, inside.
Trekking bars are 22,2 Tube like straight bars so will be fine
NB > the Avid 2 finger Speed Dial Is adjustable in cable Pull between the brake types.
Bontrager-Trek has some with Notches in them then the setup is when you determine the cable pull ratio.
Cant see it for the Dark and Dirt, But, Forward rear fender clearance suggests a Horizontal Dropout,
making a derailleur less IGH wheel a Good Option.. Shimano 8 speed are pretty reliable
if given occasional tear down and re Greasing, inside.
Trekking bars are 22,2 Tube like straight bars so will be fine
NB > the Avid 2 finger Speed Dial Is adjustable in cable Pull between the brake types.
Bontrager-Trek has some with Notches in them then the setup is when you determine the cable pull ratio.
Last edited by fietsbob; 01-03-15 at 03:13 PM.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: St. Pete, Florida
Posts: 1,258
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 83 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
The beauty of gravel biking is that a purpose built dumpster rescue bike is arguably more legit than just going down to the LBS and throwing a bunch of money down on what the big brands think you "should" be riding.
I'm partial to barcons or thumbies simply because there's very little that can go wrong with them. On long, possibly unsupported, rides in the middle of nowhere, it's good to keep reliability and field serviceability in the back of your mind. Drops vs. trekking bars is down to personal preference. Be mindful of reach when converting to drops since many flatbar frames are designed with a longer top-tube than a comparable road frame. Gearing depends on where you plan to ride. I run a 12-32 7-speed cassette with a 36/46 CX crankset because I need the low end to handle sandy/swampy conditions we encounter in FL. For flat places where "gravel" is something other than crushed seashells on a bed of sugar sand, a 1x7 might be viable.
I'm partial to barcons or thumbies simply because there's very little that can go wrong with them. On long, possibly unsupported, rides in the middle of nowhere, it's good to keep reliability and field serviceability in the back of your mind. Drops vs. trekking bars is down to personal preference. Be mindful of reach when converting to drops since many flatbar frames are designed with a longer top-tube than a comparable road frame. Gearing depends on where you plan to ride. I run a 12-32 7-speed cassette with a 36/46 CX crankset because I need the low end to handle sandy/swampy conditions we encounter in FL. For flat places where "gravel" is something other than crushed seashells on a bed of sugar sand, a 1x7 might be viable.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
eugene_b
Hybrid Bicycles
18
03-01-17 06:03 AM
trail_monkey
Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational)
2
04-16-16 06:56 PM
Velocivixen
Classic & Vintage
52
03-10-16 11:47 PM