Front Internal Gear Crankset and Rear Derailleur
#1
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Front Internal Gear Crankset and Rear Derailleur
Has anybody ever tried a Front-Internal-Gear Crankset and a Rear-Derailleur setup? Were there any problems?
Was the setup still lighter than an entirely rear-gear-hub/single chainring-at-the-front setup?
Was the setup still lighter than an entirely rear-gear-hub/single chainring-at-the-front setup?
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If you are referring to something like the Truvativ Hammerschmidt geared crankset, they are terribly inefficient for normal pedaling. They are made for downhill racing, where the need for chain retention outweighs the pedaling inefficiency. Several people have experimented with using them to get extra gearing on singlespeed bikes and found the extra drag to be unacceptable.
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It's fairly common in the recumbent world. I've talked to some folks who had Schlump drives and seemed to like them but I've never ridden one myself so I have no first hand experience.
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If you are referring to something like the Truvativ Hammerschmidt geared crankset, they are terribly inefficient for normal pedaling. They are made for downhill racing, where the need for chain retention outweighs the pedaling inefficiency. Several people have experimented with using them to get extra gearing on singlespeed bikes and found the extra drag to be unacceptable.
I have a Schlumpf speed drive paired with a Sturmey Archer 2 speed hub, and it works well together.Have not tried a 2 speed BB with a rear derailleur but I see no reason it would not work.
#6
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similar to the Hammerschmidt is The Patterson Metro. also a cable shift. just not an off road abuse anticipating, product
.... and there is Swiss Florian Schlumpf's speed drive a 1.6X overdrive. a shuttle button shift, without cables.
your gain is instant shifting between 1.6:1 & 1:1* at any speed even stopped, not lighter weight. [* like a 28t + a '45t' in it's overdrive mode]
I am using another of Herr Schlumpf's well designed products , it is a reduction gear crank of 2.5:1..
[like a 50t that acts like a 20t, in low range]
I combine it with a 3 speed rear IGH, and have 2 times the gears of the 3 internal gears for 6 speeds without overlap.
the chainring and crankarm are not connected directly to each other. When the gear box is engaged they turn at differing rates.
you, the OP, can look up both companies websites for further information..
.... and there is Swiss Florian Schlumpf's speed drive a 1.6X overdrive. a shuttle button shift, without cables.
your gain is instant shifting between 1.6:1 & 1:1* at any speed even stopped, not lighter weight. [* like a 28t + a '45t' in it's overdrive mode]
I am using another of Herr Schlumpf's well designed products , it is a reduction gear crank of 2.5:1..
[like a 50t that acts like a 20t, in low range]
I combine it with a 3 speed rear IGH, and have 2 times the gears of the 3 internal gears for 6 speeds without overlap.
the chainring and crankarm are not connected directly to each other. When the gear box is engaged they turn at differing rates.
you, the OP, can look up both companies websites for further information..
Last edited by fietsbob; 05-19-16 at 09:48 AM.
#7
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I'd probably go with SRAM DualDrive before I started messing with a front/crank IG setup. Unless the answer is "just because"...
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I've been running a sram dd for 2-3 years with no particular problems.
The thing is you have all the minor downsides of both systems, igh and derailer.
Mine has convinced me that what I really want is an igh 11 speed.
I still don't want to PAY for an Alfine 11 though
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You are going to be severely shocked at the price of a Schlumpf drive these days. It is around $800 just for the drive, not including installation. Of all of the internal drives for the crank, this is the best and most expensive. I have the Schlumpf Mountain Drive and SRAM dual-drive 3X8 on a 2001 Greenspeed GTO trike. It has no FD but a single 65 tooth chainring. The dual-drive combines a 3 speed internal hub and 8 or 9 speed cassette. It probably runs around $200 for the hub and shifter. If properly chosen so that you use both systems in direct mode most of the time it can be a very fine combination with little loss of efficiency. If my trike had standard gearing, the gear range would have been 19 to 90 gear inches. With the combination I have, the gear range is around 14 to 130 gear inches. You wouldn't want to put either one on an entry level bike.
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