taz777

The general guidance from Shimano for setting the cleat position on a shoe is to fit it not too tightly onto the shoe and then repeatedly clip in and clip out whilst stationary, before tightening the cleat to the final torque value.

I’m struggling to understand how this method could possibly work as the act of clipping in and clipping out a slightly loose cleat would move it to the wrong position on the shoe.

I’m assuming that the manufacturer would know best so will try this method unless others have more tried and tested methods.

dabac

Some pedals can be adjusted for retention force. Maybe there is level of torque that is a happy compromise between retention force (set at lowest) and sole-to-cleat friction which allows that method to be used.
Sounds questionable though.
Doesn't Shimano pedals disengage symmetrically for both heel-out AND heel-in?
If they do, I'm struggling to see how one could move the cleat (by moving the foot) without disengaging.
If a pedal would only disengage on heel-out, then it'd be possible to set the cleat deliberately off in one direction, then turning it inwards until happy, then unclip for final tightening.
Moving a half-fitted cleat by hand is tricky. You'd need a tool to grip it with already at a very low fastening torque.
I don't do cleat positioning often enough to merit the development of a very refined method. And by now I've got a fairly firm opinion about what works for me anyhow. But it's usually along the lines of:
- mount according to best guesstimate
- ride and concentrate on what the knees and achilles tendons say
- adjust and repeat if needed
- once happy, add final torque, put a dab of caulk in the hex heads, seal up the length of unused slots in the soles
-done!

Carbonfiberboy 

That method works for me. You'll probably have to simply keep tightening the bolts until the cleats don't move anymore, pedals set on absolute minimum release force. That's what I do. Keep messing with them until they're where you want them, then tighten further.

trailangel

OP, your interpretation of the instructions is not correct. Doesn't say to fit cleat "not too tightly" ,says to tighten the cleats temporarily.

taz777

Tight enough to still move? I think they specify a torque value, and I'm guessing that the tightness still allows a small amount of movement during the repeated clipping in and unclipping process enabling the cleat to settle into its 'correct' position.

trailangel

That's not how you set them up.

Brofessor

If you don't torque the cleats before you clip in, they will move when you clip out and then you have to start the whole ordeal from scratch. Believe me because I have been there. Also a a side note, DO NOT clip cleats in without them being attached to a shoe. It is a PITA to clip them out without a shoe. Again, been there, seen it.

Carbonfiberboy 

No, tight enough to not move. You want to have them immovable from the position in which you finally tighten them all the way down. BTW, I don't use torque. I'm been wrenching for a very long time and know what it's supposed to feel like. I don't know the torque value I use, but I'm guessing it'll be a little different for different sole materials. YMMV.

taz777

The instructions mention a provisional tightening torque of 2.5Nm. The adjustment wording is this:

Then it says to tighten to 5-6Nm:

Maybe I've misunderstood the process? I interpret it as tighten to a provisional torque of 2.5Nm, clip in and clip out several times (here I'm assuming that the cleat will move slightly to it's optimal position on the shoe), and then fully tighten to 5-6Nm.

Have I interpreted these instructions incorrectly?

Carbonfiberboy 

If the cleat moves when you clip out, then you have no idea where the correct position is. Simple. If you have lugs on the shoe bottom, sight the cleat against the lugs before and after you clip in and out to check it's where you set it.. If no lugs, put tape on the shoe bottom to sight against.

trailangel

Get rid of the torque wrench.