Difference between Drop Bar and Flat Bar bike fit?
#1
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Difference between Drop Bar and Flat Bar bike fit?
I have read about the importance of knee placement in relation to the center of the pedal on a Road bike but is this also true of a flat bar? Are there any other fitting guidelines that cross over from the drop bar bike to flat bar bike? I am guessing the seat height and front to rear is consistent but I would guess the bar height is up to the rider?
Any opinions are welcome as I am curious if there is a basic guideline for flat bar bike fit.
Thanks, Frank.
Any opinions are welcome as I am curious if there is a basic guideline for flat bar bike fit.
Thanks, Frank.
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#2
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Don't get so obsessed that one aspect of a fit must be maintained and sacrifice the other aspects that may actually be more important for your particular body.
Rules for the various fits are just guidelines to get you in the starting place to begin adjustments to find what works for you. IMO of course.
As well, when you talk of fit... are you wanting to be fitted for ultimate comfort? Best performance on a long ride? Best speed on a short ride? or some other aspect?
Rules for the various fits are just guidelines to get you in the starting place to begin adjustments to find what works for you. IMO of course.
As well, when you talk of fit... are you wanting to be fitted for ultimate comfort? Best performance on a long ride? Best speed on a short ride? or some other aspect?
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#3
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Don't get so obsessed that one aspect of a fit must be maintained and sacrifice the other aspects that may actually be more important for your particular body.
Rules for the various fits are just guidelines to get you in the starting place to begin adjustments to find what works for you. IMO of course.
As well, when you talk of fit... are you wanting to be fitted for ultimate comfort? Best performance on a long ride? Best speed on a short ride? or some other aspect?
Rules for the various fits are just guidelines to get you in the starting place to begin adjustments to find what works for you. IMO of course.
As well, when you talk of fit... are you wanting to be fitted for ultimate comfort? Best performance on a long ride? Best speed on a short ride? or some other aspect?
Frank.
Last edited by Helderberg; 05-01-19 at 01:44 PM.
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Depends on the intended usage. Flat bar road bike, comfort bike, XC, DH?
#5
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reach to MTB bar grips about the same distance as to brake lever hoods
But door # 3 trekking bars ,, you keep all the levers and cables and their figure 8 bend ,
offers a multiple hand grips and one offering a bent over into the head wind posture too ..
But door # 3 trekking bars ,, you keep all the levers and cables and their figure 8 bend ,
offers a multiple hand grips and one offering a bent over into the head wind posture too ..
#6
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Or are you asking about the frame , seat tube angle/ seat post set back ? the back side part of the fit?
I'd measure setback from a plumbline over BB axis.. dividing the top tube , fore and back of that line
I'd measure setback from a plumbline over BB axis.. dividing the top tube , fore and back of that line
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You want to go to an 11-16? I'm guessing you have a 50/34 front on that Quick 3. I'm hoping you meant 11-36. Make certain your rear DR can handle that big a gear and that much wrap it'll have to take up when small small. An 11-16 will certainly destroy your knees on hills.
If you are having trouble with saddles, then you are in plenty of company. Consider if one of your issues is not just too upright a position. Getting stretched out by moving your bars lower or further away might make a difference for saddle comfort. I find lower better than further. However it does take some effort to get used to riding in that position. At least it has for me.
If you are having trouble with saddles, then you are in plenty of company. Consider if one of your issues is not just too upright a position. Getting stretched out by moving your bars lower or further away might make a difference for saddle comfort. I find lower better than further. However it does take some effort to get used to riding in that position. At least it has for me.
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You want to go to an 11-16? I'm guessing you have a 50/34 front on that Quick 3. I'm hoping you meant 11-36. Make certain your rear DR can handle that big a gear and that much wrap it'll have to take up when small small. An 11-16 will certainly destroy your knees on hills.
If you are having trouble with saddles, then you are in plenty of company. Consider if one of your issues is not just too upright a position. Getting stretched out by moving your bars lower or further away might make a difference for saddle comfort. I find lower better than further. However it does take some effort to get used to riding in that position. At least it has for me.
If you are having trouble with saddles, then you are in plenty of company. Consider if one of your issues is not just too upright a position. Getting stretched out by moving your bars lower or further away might make a difference for saddle comfort. I find lower better than further. However it does take some effort to get used to riding in that position. At least it has for me.
I apologize, 11-36 should have been the size I meant. I have since corrected it. Obviously my copy editor was on break when I typed this.
It is a long cage so it should accept the 36 ring but I do understand the concern for the 11 cog side of it. Also, I have a shorter stem that I will try.
I was going to swap the rear cogs myself but I think I will get the advice of my LBS and let them handle the mod if it is possible.
Thank you for yours and all of the other responses. I do appreciate them.
Frank.
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Frank.
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You can google images for "mountain bike fit" and "road bike fit." You'll see that the road bike position with hands on hoods is identical with mountain bike position, hands on bars. The only difference is that road bars have drops which allows a possible lower position.
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You can google images for "mountain bike fit" and "road bike fit." You'll see that the road bike position with hands on hoods is identical with mountain bike position, hands on bars. The only difference is that road bars have drops which allows a possible lower position.
Frank.
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HUH?!?!?! Measuring my bikes, I'd need about a 250mm stem on my MTB to do that! (And with my extremely short torso, my reach isn't very long.) There's about a 15cm difference between MTB grips and road hoods on mine, which puts my back angle about the same on the each.
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You can run those bars with the shifters and brake levers out front also, then you have that as your standard position, and the closer one for climbing.