Solving first world problems
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Solving first world problems
Rebuildning the wheels for my Méral Super Randonneur. In doing that I had to solve some really big problems. Like too long valve stems and too many decals on the rims.
I do not know how many of you there are out there that have pondered on the difficulties in getting innertubes with short valves nowadays? I have. As rim profiles have gone bananas - so have the valve tube lenghts.
This Mavic T217 rim is not that low profile and yet the valve looks like the better part of a spoke...
Found some Specialized inner tubes with a detachable valve.
Compared with a normal, old fashioned, length valve tube.
Cut it to length.
New inner threads.
Some red Loctite compound and a small wrench later.
Compared before and after.
At last I can sleep OK again!
Cleaned up the rim from decals when I was at it solving first world problems...
Need to clean the rim from decal glue but then we are good to go!
I do not know how many of you there are out there that have pondered on the difficulties in getting innertubes with short valves nowadays? I have. As rim profiles have gone bananas - so have the valve tube lenghts.
This Mavic T217 rim is not that low profile and yet the valve looks like the better part of a spoke...
Found some Specialized inner tubes with a detachable valve.
Compared with a normal, old fashioned, length valve tube.
Cut it to length.
New inner threads.
Some red Loctite compound and a small wrench later.
Compared before and after.
At last I can sleep OK again!
Cleaned up the rim from decals when I was at it solving first world problems...
Need to clean the rim from decal glue but then we are good to go!
Last edited by styggno1; 03-28-21 at 07:25 AM. Reason: spelling
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#2
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Way to problem solve.
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Submitting this for the Thread of the Year.
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That is dedication! Nice work!
It is strange how hard it is to find the right inner tubes. The right length stem, threaded valve as my on the road mini pump requires this, non removable core, as sometimes the pump will unthread the core and that can be problematic out on the road.
It is strange how hard it is to find the right inner tubes. The right length stem, threaded valve as my on the road mini pump requires this, non removable core, as sometimes the pump will unthread the core and that can be problematic out on the road.
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What is the threading on the valve core and tap?
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That's awesome. My LBS only has 60 to 80mm valves, and they hardly carry any 23 - 25c tubes. Everything is for 28 and up. I hope the fat tire craze ends soon.
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Wow! I can easily see dealing with the stickers. But shortening the valve is impressive.
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If I did that I'd be tempting Murphy. Tube killing debris event first three rides.
That said, I hate these long valves. Even on the sorta deep Velocity Aeros, I'd rather have an old shorty and have to use my HPX to get enough air in to use my floor pump than have to go to a long one. But sadly, tubes are one of those things I have to have and the choices are usually other than my first or second choices.
That said, I hate these long valves. Even on the sorta deep Velocity Aeros, I'd rather have an old shorty and have to use my HPX to get enough air in to use my floor pump than have to go to a long one. But sadly, tubes are one of those things I have to have and the choices are usually other than my first or second choices.
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I used a M5x0,8 tap. Do however not expect a perfect fit - as the threads on the small detachable valve are very, very weak. Not sharp or well defined. This is where the Loctite comes in. A must.
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What's the chance of brass shavings getting inside the tube? For someone less precise than yourself?
More than one First World solution has gone wrong.
More than one First World solution has gone wrong.
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Wildwood Just my two cents worth of thinking this challenge through:
When cutting the stem to length, first insert a Q-Tip swab soaked in oil, leaving one end out, to catch the debris from the cut. Obviously be careful not to cut through the Q-Tip stem. As far as cutting the inner threads, my only lame suggestion might be to use a wax plug, which is removed afterwards by melting with a heat-gun with the opening facing down.
styggno1 you have given me inspiration for the days to come! Well done!
When cutting the stem to length, first insert a Q-Tip swab soaked in oil, leaving one end out, to catch the debris from the cut. Obviously be careful not to cut through the Q-Tip stem. As far as cutting the inner threads, my only lame suggestion might be to use a wax plug, which is removed afterwards by melting with a heat-gun with the opening facing down.
styggno1 you have given me inspiration for the days to come! Well done!
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... and pray you don't get a flat on the first time out!
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you are a psychopath
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I guess we are coming from different directions - 42 is a too long valve to me if used on a traditional low profile rim. The one I shortened above was 48. I shortened the valve/stem tube to 24mm which is a length to suit old tubular rims and clincher rims like the Mavic MA, MA2, MA40, etc.
I used this picture above to show what they used to look like before high profile rims:
And that is what I am aiming for.
I used this picture above to show what they used to look like before high profile rims:
And that is what I am aiming for.
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What the h-ck - I will make this thread my build thread. It is only natural as everything I am going to do is first world "problem" solving or thinking.
I started by saying I am buildning new wheels for my Méral Super Randonneur. I do not need new wheels at all. The ones I have got has served me well since the early 90ies and still do. They are 40 spoke Record hubs, DT Competition spokes and Mavic MA40 rims with all black Schwalbe touring tires. All parts are in splendid condition. No need to do anything.
But I want silver coloured rims and tan wall tires. And in the ongoing gravel craze I want a bit wider tires. I do have problems. Don´t I!
Tore down the wheels.
Cleaned up all the parts and gave the hubs new grease (the bearings are silky smooth).
Laced both wheels this evening and trued the rear. The front has to wait until tomorrow.
Everyone in here must know the importance of seeing the "Campagnolo Record" thru the valve hole when the wheel is built. What would the world come to if these things were not done!
More unnecessary things to come here. Do not miss out.
I started by saying I am buildning new wheels for my Méral Super Randonneur. I do not need new wheels at all. The ones I have got has served me well since the early 90ies and still do. They are 40 spoke Record hubs, DT Competition spokes and Mavic MA40 rims with all black Schwalbe touring tires. All parts are in splendid condition. No need to do anything.
But I want silver coloured rims and tan wall tires. And in the ongoing gravel craze I want a bit wider tires. I do have problems. Don´t I!
Tore down the wheels.
Cleaned up all the parts and gave the hubs new grease (the bearings are silky smooth).
Laced both wheels this evening and trued the rear. The front has to wait until tomorrow.
Everyone in here must know the importance of seeing the "Campagnolo Record" thru the valve hole when the wheel is built. What would the world come to if these things were not done!
More unnecessary things to come here. Do not miss out.
Last edited by styggno1; 03-31-21 at 04:58 AM.
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I wonder if this is a Swedish thing, I can see both of my Swedish engineer (Chalmers university) friends doing this
mycket bra
mycket bra
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#23
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Lunds University here. Founded 1666. We mock the Chalmers guys for their new university (founded in 1829)! No wonder I am slow to adopt too long valve stems.
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I believe Panaracer offers a 33mm Presta valve stem.