Does it make sense to pair 11-34T cassette with
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Does it make sense to pair 11-34T cassette with
52/36? My current Canyon Endurace has 50/34 and 11-34T. Not the smoothest shifting experience but it gets the job done. I've also recently gotten Kickr Core and stuck the same cassette in the back (unfortunately... didn't know better then).
Now that I've getting slightly more familiar with how things work, and given my preference for flatter rides (my knee), I'm getting more curious about getting some gains on the flats (there are definitely still some occasional hills here in there - I currently live in a very mountainous South Korea), or even just a smoother shifting experience at relatively higher speeds. So here's what I'm thinking:
a. 52/36 (from current 50/34) + 11-34 combo? [$88 upgrade] Which should still have the same chain capacity of 39T On paper, this looks to give me some gains, but I've never come across this combination no matter how hard I googled... so I'm a bit suspect there.
Other options:
b. 50/34 + 12-30 (34T capacity) I know this will hurt my top speed, but it would be the cheapest change out the bunch... and I'm curious if this would make more sense on Kickr, at least, since 90% of the time, I'm going in 13-50...
c. 52/36 + 12-30 (34T capacity)
d. 52/36 + 11-28 (33T capacity*) Since this is the Maximum capacity for the SS, is it possible to get away with my medium GS cage (34-41T)?
I have an RD-4700-GS derailleur with 34-41T max capacity, so all good there.
Anything thoughts on any of those? I'm particularly curious about options "a" and "c" which seem to appeal to me the most, number-wise.
Also, would I need to resize my chain for either a, b or c?
Thanks in advance
Now that I've getting slightly more familiar with how things work, and given my preference for flatter rides (my knee), I'm getting more curious about getting some gains on the flats (there are definitely still some occasional hills here in there - I currently live in a very mountainous South Korea), or even just a smoother shifting experience at relatively higher speeds. So here's what I'm thinking:
a. 52/36 (from current 50/34) + 11-34 combo? [$88 upgrade] Which should still have the same chain capacity of 39T On paper, this looks to give me some gains, but I've never come across this combination no matter how hard I googled... so I'm a bit suspect there.
Other options:
b. 50/34 + 12-30 (34T capacity) I know this will hurt my top speed, but it would be the cheapest change out the bunch... and I'm curious if this would make more sense on Kickr, at least, since 90% of the time, I'm going in 13-50...
c. 52/36 + 12-30 (34T capacity)
d. 52/36 + 11-28 (33T capacity*) Since this is the Maximum capacity for the SS, is it possible to get away with my medium GS cage (34-41T)?
I have an RD-4700-GS derailleur with 34-41T max capacity, so all good there.
Anything thoughts on any of those? I'm particularly curious about options "a" and "c" which seem to appeal to me the most, number-wise.
Also, would I need to resize my chain for either a, b or c?
Thanks in advance
Last edited by spilot101; 02-05-21 at 04:45 AM.
#2
aka: Dr. Cannondale
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 7,733
Mentioned: 234 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2155 Post(s)
Liked 3,404 Times
in
1,205 Posts
Interesting. My CF Endurace (which might be older than yours) has a 52/36 and 11/32 combination. I've never found it to be lacking at either end of the gearing, although we have really steep hills where I live in Virginia.
If you're mainly in 50-30 now, just shifting down a gear (or two?) on the cassette to the 12 or 11 will give you an extra 10% or so per gear- much more than going from a 50 to a 52 ring gear..
If you're mainly in 50-30 now, just shifting down a gear (or two?) on the cassette to the 12 or 11 will give you an extra 10% or so per gear- much more than going from a 50 to a 52 ring gear..
__________________
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
#3
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,987
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6193 Post(s)
Liked 4,809 Times
in
3,317 Posts
If your shifting experience isn't smooth, then changing to 52/36 crank probably isn't going to do anything for that unless you have mix and match components and something is out of wack. IMO
What about your current ride experience with that mountainous terrain and your typical rides that make up most of your riding. Do you feel more lacking for low gear ratios or for high gear ratios? Or does the current range of ratios serve you well? Forget about smoothness till you have the ratios correct for you and what you ride.
A 52/36 might feel good on the down side of a hill, but you might miss the 50/34 going up the hill. It's possible you might need a bike that can handle some of the wider ranging cassettes found on some cross bikes.
Or, if there is a side of the cassette you seldom use, then you might need to look for a cassette that gives you more choices in the range you do use. And that might include or be handled by a change of the front chain wheels as you are asking in your OP.
What about your current ride experience with that mountainous terrain and your typical rides that make up most of your riding. Do you feel more lacking for low gear ratios or for high gear ratios? Or does the current range of ratios serve you well? Forget about smoothness till you have the ratios correct for you and what you ride.
A 52/36 might feel good on the down side of a hill, but you might miss the 50/34 going up the hill. It's possible you might need a bike that can handle some of the wider ranging cassettes found on some cross bikes.
Or, if there is a side of the cassette you seldom use, then you might need to look for a cassette that gives you more choices in the range you do use. And that might include or be handled by a change of the front chain wheels as you are asking in your OP.
Last edited by Iride01; 02-05-21 at 09:14 AM.
Likes For Iride01:
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767
Bikes: lots
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1958 Post(s)
Liked 2,932 Times
in
1,489 Posts
Just because you have bigger gears on your bike doesn't mean you'll go faster.
Likes For cxwrench:
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 9,846
Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2338 Post(s)
Liked 2,822 Times
in
1,541 Posts
note that Shimano spec for that derailler also specifies no more than 16t difference between the front chain rings. Will it work? maybe, but there may be reason shimano does not sell 52/34 configuration
Personally I think you you stick with what your have, gives you the lowest for hills and should be more than fast enough on flats
Personally I think you you stick with what your have, gives you the lowest for hills and should be more than fast enough on flats
__________________
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
#6
With a mighty wind
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 2,594
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1088 Post(s)
Liked 862 Times
in
490 Posts
I have 50/34 and 12-30 on one of my bikes.
Don't worry about your top speed. 50x12 is gets me well over 40mph before I tuck and stop pedaling. It's the tuck and long descent without curves that gives you really fast speeds.
I've descended in excess of 55mph several times. I don't think I was ever actually pedaling at those speeds.
34x30 on an unloaded road bike is a mountain goat gear. No need to be much lower on pavement.
Don't worry about your top speed. 50x12 is gets me well over 40mph before I tuck and stop pedaling. It's the tuck and long descent without curves that gives you really fast speeds.
I've descended in excess of 55mph several times. I don't think I was ever actually pedaling at those speeds.
34x30 on an unloaded road bike is a mountain goat gear. No need to be much lower on pavement.
Likes For rosefarts:
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Cool. Thanks for the feedback, everyone.
Im going to keep my 50/34 for now and give 12-30 a spin, as it seems to be the most logical choice for my current needs, if I can get away without the need to shorten my chain. This change would keep me within my cage range (going from 39T to 34T). But would I need to shorten my chain, or can I keep it as is?
Im going to keep my 50/34 for now and give 12-30 a spin, as it seems to be the most logical choice for my current needs, if I can get away without the need to shorten my chain. This change would keep me within my cage range (going from 39T to 34T). But would I need to shorten my chain, or can I keep it as is?
Last edited by spilot101; 02-05-21 at 10:17 PM.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Hacienda Hgts
Posts: 2,109
Bikes: 1999 Schwinn Peloton Ultegra 10, Kestrel RT-1000 Ultegra, Trek Marlin 6 Deore 29'er
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 822 Post(s)
Liked 1,960 Times
in
943 Posts
I had rough shifting in on the 27, 30 and 34 cogs of my 11-34 mated with a 50/34 Ultegra 6800 compact. After having a GS rdr/chain change and some fine tuning while riding, I no longer have rough shifting but I realize I need 1/2 turn more of the crank to complete the shifts in those cogs.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I had rough shifting in on the 27, 30 and 34 cogs of my 11-34 mated with a 50/34 Ultegra 6800 compact. After having a GS rdr/chain change and some fine tuning while riding, I no longer have rough shifting but I realize I need 1/2 turn more of the crank to complete the shifts in those cogs.
#10
Senior Member
Unless you have some steep hills that demand low gears I would suggest the 10s 12-28 and combined with 50/34. The 12-28 is exactly the same as the 11s 11-28 bar the 11t cog that you likely never use anyway.
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks, Dan. I thought about this one as well, but it might put it outside of my medium (GS4700) derailleur's range with its 32T. I'd probably need an SS cage and do away with a few chain links for the swap to work, wouldn't I?
#12
Senior Member
Ive tried the 12-28 with a GS. You need to adjust the B-screw to make is shift quick and positive. I does work fine but I would prefer a SS given the choice.
Likes For Racing Dan:
#14
Really Old Senior Member
This doc shows 33 for the SS and 39 (really 41) on the GS.
32T of wrap will fit either as well as a 12-28 cassette.
I also hate the 11T cog that's so prolific. It's my belief that those who put the most miles on their bike (touring of some sort) probably don't use an 11T cog.
#16
Really Old Senior Member
https://www.coloradocyclist.com/ulte...IaAuurEALw_wcB
I run a 12-27 9 speed on my "grocery getter", but age & medical issues make it appear I'll change it into a 13-30 by exchanging some parts from an 11-34.
That spread of a 10 speed is actually the 1st 10 speed cassette that appealed to me.