Schwinn Pathway shifter problems
#1
Has a bike
Thread Starter
Schwinn Pathway shifter problems
I have a Schwinn Pathway from Walmart as my inexpensive commuter bicycle that I can ride to the store and lock up without too much worry. It has twist shifters with 3 sprockets on the front and 6 on the back. The problem is when I shift trying to go into a lower gear with either it feels like you're fighting tension so it's really difficult and sometimes wants to pop back into the higher gear on its own. Each click shifts into the proper gear so it works other than the heavy spring tension. I don't know if it's a spring inside of the mechanism on the handlebar or it's fighting with the derailleur. That's the only problem I have with this bicycle.
My questions are
Is this normal because of the cheap shifters?
Can I somehow adjust the mechanism to make it stop doing this?
Could I replace the shifting mechanism with something not too expensive from Amazon or whatever?
I know someone will comment just take it to a LBS and yes I take my nicer bicycles to there for service but he would charge me way more than it's worth or probably tell me to toss it in a nearby dumpster
The forum won't let me post a link but if you Google search 700c Schwinn Pathway Men's Multi-Use Bike, Black it's like the first link down from Walmart
My questions are
Is this normal because of the cheap shifters?
Can I somehow adjust the mechanism to make it stop doing this?
Could I replace the shifting mechanism with something not too expensive from Amazon or whatever?
I know someone will comment just take it to a LBS and yes I take my nicer bicycles to there for service but he would charge me way more than it's worth or probably tell me to toss it in a nearby dumpster
The forum won't let me post a link but if you Google search 700c Schwinn Pathway Men's Multi-Use Bike, Black it's like the first link down from Walmart
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,073
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4201 Post(s)
Liked 3,857 Times
in
2,305 Posts
1- Maybe maybe not not yet really knowing the cause of your problems.
2- Maybe if the issues are things like limit screws or cable tensions. But if things are broken or twisted/bent then maybe not.
3- Yes you can replace the shifter, or anything else, sourced from whoever. Whether you consider the costs to do so "inexpensive" we don't know.
Some shops are more willing to talk to a customer for 5 minutes, with out expectation of payment, then others are. Thanks for the path way to your bike. Andy
2- Maybe if the issues are things like limit screws or cable tensions. But if things are broken or twisted/bent then maybe not.
3- Yes you can replace the shifter, or anything else, sourced from whoever. Whether you consider the costs to do so "inexpensive" we don't know.
Some shops are more willing to talk to a customer for 5 minutes, with out expectation of payment, then others are. Thanks for the path way to your bike. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
Likes For Andrew R Stewart:
#3
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,985
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6193 Post(s)
Liked 4,808 Times
in
3,316 Posts
I used to always buy inexpensive Walmart and other big box discount store bikes for my two son's. In most cases, the DR's just weren't correctly adjusted and sometimes little pieces parts were forgotten by whomever built the bike. So that was done at the local level by that Walmart or by someone they contracted with.
Some bike shops will work on such bikes, others won't. I you don't have the immediate skills to deal with DIY, then find a willing bike shop and watch them if they'll let you. Or at least be involved enough to know what everything looked like when you took it in and when you got it back. Ask as many detailed questions as you can. If something is over your head, make them explain it too you.
Of course being amicable to the mechanic and realizing that if the place is packed with business, they really can't spare much time for you. So re-visit at a less busy time when they'll be more likely to chew the fat.
If you think you do know enough to DIY it, then you might find good info on the Shimano Tech doc site for any of your Shimano components. https://si.shimano.com/#/ DM's being the most helpful.
Other manufacturer's have info too. But some make you search forever to find anything.
Some bike shops will work on such bikes, others won't. I you don't have the immediate skills to deal with DIY, then find a willing bike shop and watch them if they'll let you. Or at least be involved enough to know what everything looked like when you took it in and when you got it back. Ask as many detailed questions as you can. If something is over your head, make them explain it too you.
Of course being amicable to the mechanic and realizing that if the place is packed with business, they really can't spare much time for you. So re-visit at a less busy time when they'll be more likely to chew the fat.
If you think you do know enough to DIY it, then you might find good info on the Shimano Tech doc site for any of your Shimano components. https://si.shimano.com/#/ DM's being the most helpful.
Other manufacturer's have info too. But some make you search forever to find anything.
Last edited by Iride01; 03-09-21 at 09:56 AM.
Likes For Iride01:
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,806
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1943 Post(s)
Liked 2,164 Times
in
1,323 Posts
I read an account of a similar issue on a Diamondback kids bike. The issue was the Sunrace twist shifters not being a good match for the Shimano rear derailleur.
I can’t say that is your issue, but if you can easily shift to the higher gears, smaller cogs, and nothing hangs up, but shifting against the derailleur spring, especially the lowest cog, and it is hard and wants to upshift, I put my money on the shifters.
You can find inexpensive Shimano MRX or maybe 3x6 thumb shifters online. Shouldn’t be too difficult to install.
John
Edit Added: With a 3x6 casual riding bike you can always use friction thumb shifters.
I can’t say that is your issue, but if you can easily shift to the higher gears, smaller cogs, and nothing hangs up, but shifting against the derailleur spring, especially the lowest cog, and it is hard and wants to upshift, I put my money on the shifters.
You can find inexpensive Shimano MRX or maybe 3x6 thumb shifters online. Shouldn’t be too difficult to install.
John
Edit Added: With a 3x6 casual riding bike you can always use friction thumb shifters.
Last edited by 70sSanO; 03-09-21 at 11:01 AM.
Likes For 70sSanO:
#5
Has a bike
Thread Starter
I bought a Tourney Shimano Shift Lever SL-TX30 from Amazon so hopefully that does the trick. I’m just getting back into cycling so I don’t know the guy at the LBS very well. The last time I asked a bike shop to tune up my Walmart bike it was maybe 25 years ago and the guy seemed insulted that I would even bring the bike in his store. I think he told me it would be at least $100. That’s 25 years ago $100 so today maybe $200 😂
Anyways I figure I need to be able to do basic repairs even if I’m going to have my LBS service my bike. If I get stuck on the trail with a chain broken I want to be able to fix it to get out. Working on my Walmart bike will give me practice without the risk of damaging something too expensive. Besides I just can’t bring myself to toss it in the dumpster because I like riding it.
Anyways I figure I need to be able to do basic repairs even if I’m going to have my LBS service my bike. If I get stuck on the trail with a chain broken I want to be able to fix it to get out. Working on my Walmart bike will give me practice without the risk of damaging something too expensive. Besides I just can’t bring myself to toss it in the dumpster because I like riding it.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,670
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 836 Post(s)
Liked 1,061 Times
in
745 Posts
You Tube is a great place to find tutorials to fix & service anything on your bike. All your questions have a video available. This page has some for servicing different twist grips, how to change to another grip shift or thumbshift, how to adjust your derailleur, etc. Best to know at least the brand of parts you have and model if possible. how to service a twist grip shifter - YouTube Start there and anything you don't understand or don't have all the info you need check back with us here.
Likes For Crankycrank:
#7
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,509
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2746 Post(s)
Liked 3,390 Times
in
2,053 Posts
Twist shifters are notorious for hard operation, especially cheap ones.
Likes For dedhed:
#8
Has a bike
Thread Starter
Just to update everyone I finally installed the shifters. Of course I had to replace the grips because they were shorter with twist shifters. It was approximately $30 with tax for both shifters and grips. It was actually easier to do that I thought it was going to be. It shifts really nice especially compared to what it did before. It’s a little bit sluggish downshifting. I’m not sure if that’s due to just economical parts or maybe it needs some adjustment. Either way it’s night and day from what I had with a twist shifters and since I only take that bike on the road it’s not really a big deal.
Likes For russell1010:
#9
Really Old Senior Member
Just to update everyone I finally installed the shifters. Of course I had to replace the grips because they were shorter with twist shifters. It was approximately $30 with tax for both shifters and grips. It was actually easier to do that I thought it was going to be. It shifts really nice especially compared to what it did before. It’s a little bit sluggish downshifting. I’m not sure if that’s due to just economical parts or maybe it needs some adjustment. Either way it’s night and day from what I had with a twist shifters and since I only take that bike on the road it’s not really a big deal.
Downshifting is going to a larger rear cog aka lower gear. Since you "pull" cable, the shifts are positive.
Upshifts go to a smaller cog and soley rely on RDER spring tension to "pull" the cable back into the housing. ANY friction in the cable/housing can make the return travel slow.
Did you replace the cables? Housing? Lube the cable/housing if using old?
The rearmost "loop" wears faster because of the tight radius. The cable is trying to wear a groove in the same place on the housing.
That area also gets coated with mud/dirt that migrates to the innards.
IF your problem is actually happening when going to a larger cog, turn the barrel adjuster a click or 3 tighter. Too much and you'll have the opposite problem.
Likes For Bill Kapaun:
#10
Has a bike
Thread Starter
How do you define "downshifting"?
Downshifting is going to a larger rear cog aka lower gear. Since you "pull" cable, the shifts are positive.
Upshifts go to a smaller cog and soley rely on RDER spring tension to "pull" the cable back into the housing. ANY friction in the cable/housing can make the return travel slow.
Did you replace the cables? Housing? Lube the cable/housing if using old?
The rearmost "loop" wears faster because of the tight radius. The cable is trying to wear a groove in the same place on the housing.
That area also gets coated with mud/dirt that migrates to the innards.
IF your problem is actually happening when going to a larger cog, turn the barrel adjuster a click or 3 tighter. Too much and you'll have the opposite problem.
Downshifting is going to a larger rear cog aka lower gear. Since you "pull" cable, the shifts are positive.
Upshifts go to a smaller cog and soley rely on RDER spring tension to "pull" the cable back into the housing. ANY friction in the cable/housing can make the return travel slow.
Did you replace the cables? Housing? Lube the cable/housing if using old?
The rearmost "loop" wears faster because of the tight radius. The cable is trying to wear a groove in the same place on the housing.
That area also gets coated with mud/dirt that migrates to the innards.
IF your problem is actually happening when going to a larger cog, turn the barrel adjuster a click or 3 tighter. Too much and you'll have the opposite problem.