Show us your gravel/cross bike...
08-26-18, 04:54 PM
#4176
just keep riding
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Milledgeville, Georgia
Posts: 13,560
Bikes: 2018 Black Mountain Cycles MCD,2017 Advocate Cycles Seldom Seen Drop Bar, 2017 Niner Jet 9 Alloy, 2015 Zukas custom road, 2003 KHS Milano Tandem, 1986 Nishiki Cadence rigid MTB, 1980ish Fuji S-12S
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08-26-18, 06:42 PM
#4177
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 365
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My new bike!
Raleigh Tamland 2 full Ultegra 11 46/36 11/28.
All steel, currently riding on 28mm road tires.
This is my first cross/gravel type bike and I am extremely impressed at how well it rides. Fully exceeded my expectations. I look forward to a lot of miles on it.
Raleigh Tamland 2 full Ultegra 11 46/36 11/28.
All steel, currently riding on 28mm road tires.
This is my first cross/gravel type bike and I am extremely impressed at how well it rides. Fully exceeded my expectations. I look forward to a lot of miles on it.
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08-27-18, 01:20 AM
#4179
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
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Those are townie bars(think Dutch bike, roadster). To him, drop bars represents sports and competition, both of which he hates.
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08-27-18, 09:34 PM
#4181
Occam's Rotor
Join Date: Jul 2013
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08-27-18, 09:47 PM
#4182
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,614
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
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08-28-18, 04:46 AM
#4183
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Barcelona
Posts: 120
Bikes: Genesis Croix de Fer 10, Merida SUB 40, Old Raleigh
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Not a Gravel Grinder per se, but it does tackle gravel roads quite well!
Still needs plenty of reworking, but it'll be a fun companion for the next five months.
Still needs plenty of reworking, but it'll be a fun companion for the next five months.
08-28-18, 12:27 PM
#4184
Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
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Cannondale CaadX SE. I've definitely been trying to put it through the paces. With the exception of potentially swapping over to hydro brakes, its been a great bike.
08-30-18, 02:04 PM
#4186
Senior Member
Its home built, with a 44mm headtube to take a tapered steerer. I cut the front of the head tube lug and formed it to fit the wider tubing. The cables and brake hose are all internal with cable adjusters on the down tube where the cable/housing enters the down tube. the oval chainstays are S bend MTB stays, and surpisingly very little lug bending was needed to make them fit. BSA bottom bracket. Flat mount through axle Paragon rear drop outs. The rear has a 2.1 inch tire in it and has about a 1/4 inch clearance on either side. Chinese carbon fork, the 2.1 inch tire just fits inside. Rattle can base coat with a 2K clear over it.
It is my 3rd rideable frame. The first was too long the second is the same size as the one in the pic but has round straight chainstays and only takes up to a 44 or so mm tire.
It is my 3rd rideable frame. The first was too long the second is the same size as the one in the pic but has round straight chainstays and only takes up to a 44 or so mm tire.
08-30-18, 02:42 PM
#4187
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,614
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
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Its home built, with a 44mm headtube to take a tapered steerer. I cut the front of the head tube lug and formed it to fit the wider tubing. The cables and brake hose are all internal with cable adjusters on the down tube where the cable/housing enters the down tube. the oval chainstays are S bend MTB stays, and surpisingly very little lug bending was needed to make them fit. BSA bottom bracket. Flat mount through axle Paragon rear drop outs. The rear has a 2.1 inch tire in it and has about a 1/4 inch clearance on either side. Chinese carbon fork, the 2.1 inch tire just fits inside. Rattle can base coat with a 2K clear over it.
It is my 3rd rideable frame. The first was too long the second is the same size as the one in the pic but has round straight chainstays and only takes up to a 44 or so mm tire.
It is my 3rd rideable frame. The first was too long the second is the same size as the one in the pic but has round straight chainstays and only takes up to a 44 or so mm tire.
Creative work around for the head tube lug.
- Is the internal cable routing set up with an internal tube guide or is the cable loose inside the tube?
- Do you build on your own and have all the tools to miter and braze or do you have access to someone else’s setup?
- What tubing did you use?
I built a road bike this past winter/spring as part of a small 3 student class. Traditional geometry, ovalized S bend chainstays, internal rear brake, Columbus Zona tubing. The guy teaching the class is a decades long builder and has a paint booth so he did the painting. Awesome experience and I would love to build a gravel bike, but there is 0 chance that happens due to the class cost.
Thanks for mentioning the 2K clear coat. Ill have to read up on that. I am helping a kid I mentor build a road bike from an ’89 Centurion Ironman frame and we are going to paint it. I did one of my bikes with spray.bike paint and plan to use that stuff for his bike, but the 2K clear coat may be a good product to try.
bike pic of my build-
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08-30-18, 03:28 PM
#4189
Full Member
08-30-18, 05:39 PM
#4190
Senior Member
Very cool! Im trying to control my geek right now as I have 643 questions I would ask.
Creative work around for the head tube lug.
- Is the internal cable routing set up with an internal tube guide or is the cable loose inside the tube?
- Do you build on your own and have all the tools to miter and braze or do you have access to someone else’s setup?
- What tubing did you use?
I built a road bike this past winter/spring as part of a small 3 student class. Traditional geometry, ovalized S bend chainstays, internal rear brake, Columbus Zona tubing. The guy teaching the class is a decades long builder and has a paint booth so he did the painting. Awesome experience and I would love to build a gravel bike, but there is 0 chance that happens due to the class cost.
Thanks for mentioning the 2K clear coat. Ill have to read up on that. I am helping a kid I mentor build a road bike from an ’89 Centurion Ironman frame and we are going to paint it. I did one of my bikes with spray.bike paint and plan to use that stuff for his bike, but the 2K clear coat may be a good product to try.
bike pic of my build-
Creative work around for the head tube lug.
- Is the internal cable routing set up with an internal tube guide or is the cable loose inside the tube?
- Do you build on your own and have all the tools to miter and braze or do you have access to someone else’s setup?
- What tubing did you use?
I built a road bike this past winter/spring as part of a small 3 student class. Traditional geometry, ovalized S bend chainstays, internal rear brake, Columbus Zona tubing. The guy teaching the class is a decades long builder and has a paint booth so he did the painting. Awesome experience and I would love to build a gravel bike, but there is 0 chance that happens due to the class cost.
Thanks for mentioning the 2K clear coat. Ill have to read up on that. I am helping a kid I mentor build a road bike from an ’89 Centurion Ironman frame and we are going to paint it. I did one of my bikes with spray.bike paint and plan to use that stuff for his bike, but the 2K clear coat may be a good product to try.
bike pic of my build-
For the head tube lugs I cut the front band and used the torch to make the ID fit the bigger tube then fit a piece of steel in the gap and brazed it in. I used brass to braze it all together.
I also took a class to build a basic lugged frame. It was something I wanted to do for a while and a shop in Glendale CA offered it. I had some basic metal tools before the class once I knew what I needed I bought the rest. I made a frame jig and started building. The shop that ran the class had a very nice tubing notcher but I didn't want to spend $600 on one so between a cheap notcher a grinder and a file I get the joints to fit.
On the bike in the pic the cables run inside 1/8th stainless tubing inside the tubes, I wanted to put the cable adjusters on the frame, the prior frame I just used full length cable housing internally.
Not sure what tubing it is made from just that it is the thicker walled tubing due to me being pretty big.
08-30-18, 05:44 PM
#4191
Senior Member
68mm with the 2.5 mm spacers. I used an MTB crankset there is slightly less than 1/4 inch clearance between the teeth on the outer ring and the stay. 17 1/2 inch chainstay.
09-01-18, 09:14 PM
#4192
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: L.A.
Posts: 139
Bikes: Giant Anyroad
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i have since upgraded the front brake to a 160mm and a BB7. When I scrape some pennies together I'll do the rear.
09-03-18, 10:14 PM
#4193
Senior Member
Mostly stock Stuntman. I took the dropper off to clean up the bars and because I never used it. I actually really like the stock saddle, so it has stayed. I've had several sets of tires on it but I recently went back to the MSOs. XT trekking pedals, which I love. It's a very stable and comfortable bike if not exactly fast feeling. It can keep up in a race, though. Maybe 28 lbs as shown, not particularly light. Stock build is really good on this bike, lots of smart choices and nothing crap.
Last edited by Hiro11; 09-03-18 at 10:27 PM.
09-06-18, 11:56 AM
#4194
Senior Member
Just picked up the Fuji Jari about a week ago. Still dialing things in on it and only ridden pavement, but loving it so far.
Last edited by covpride; 09-06-18 at 12:51 PM.
09-27-18, 07:12 AM
#4196
Senior Member
This is my modified Focus Cyclocross bike. I originally bought it to exercise dogs in our dog park and ride on bike trails in & around Metro Atlanta.
I am in the process of moving to North, GA, MTNS where I will ride on the steep, gravel covered hills in the community we live in
I was having a problem with the drop bar that came on the bike. I was in a car accident that resulted in permanent nerve & muscle damage in my neck.
The bike now has: WTB “narrow” Volt saddle, Eagle GX-1X group set with 170mm crank arms, Carbon riser bar, half Profile Design “inner” bars, WTB Nano 700x40C tires, Stans No Tubes Rims, Chester flat pedals....
I am in the process of moving to North, GA, MTNS where I will ride on the steep, gravel covered hills in the community we live in
I was having a problem with the drop bar that came on the bike. I was in a car accident that resulted in permanent nerve & muscle damage in my neck.
The bike now has: WTB “narrow” Volt saddle, Eagle GX-1X group set with 170mm crank arms, Carbon riser bar, half Profile Design “inner” bars, WTB Nano 700x40C tires, Stans No Tubes Rims, Chester flat pedals....
Last edited by McMitchell; 09-27-18 at 07:50 AM.
09-29-18, 10:04 PM
#4198
Old Rider
2014 Giant Revolt
Upgraded to Ultegra 6800 and Hunt 4Season Wheels
First ride today on Panaracer GravelKing SK TLC 43mm tires
Upgraded to Ultegra 6800 and Hunt 4Season Wheels
First ride today on Panaracer GravelKing SK TLC 43mm tires
Last edited by jan230; 09-30-18 at 01:58 PM.
10-03-18, 08:42 PM
#4199
Senior Member
Just in from the car. Quick junk removal of crap bottle cages, flat pedals and junk cycle computer. 2001 Bianchi Axis in team colours. Size 55 which is perfect fit wise. Mix of Shimano 105 and XT drivetrain. Some components original, some changed. Will tear down and clean tomorrow. At present approx 21#, Easton Ultralight frame and CF fork. Wheels are road style but good condition.
Super happy!
10-04-18, 02:51 PM
#4200
Senior Member
Spent some time today doing a few things to the Axis. Found out it is a 2002 model built in late 01. Wheels are original! Switched out stem, saddle and straightened the bar tape. Will replace it in due time. This was owned by a doctor who never rode it then given to his friend who couldn’t ride it.
Short shakedown ride ride with my son. It handles quick with instant acceleration. Not happy with the height of the handle bar, need to cut the steering tube at some time.