I’ll echo your sentiments. While it is not a guarantee of fewer flats, since that is dependent on many factors it is that for the majority of punctures, the ability to continue riding means far fewer incidents where a rider needs to stop to repair a flat. That alone is a huge advantage.
One thing I’m noticing in this thread is some people referring to tubeless and then mentioning things like Kevlar bead or running tube or tubeless. What I think may be misunderstood is that only tubeless tires and tubeless rims provide the ability to safely and reliably run without a tube. A standard clincher such as a Conti GP4000 or Michelin Power cannot be used as tubeless since a Kevlar bead will stretch beyond what will stay on the rim and the tires are not designed to hold air. Bead shape of the rims, tubeless vs clincher is also different and a clincher should not be used tubeless and expected to perform the same as one designed specifically for that purpose.
Tubeless tire and wheel systems can and do provide real world benefits but only when compatible products are used in the manner they were designed for. Going outside those design constraints can yield success for some but there are no assurances.
As for tire pressure tubeless tires can be run at the same pressures as a standard clincher but doing so relieved the user of some of the benefits like lower rolling resistance, greater comfort and enhanced cornering ability and feel.
To Rayzorx, I’m heavier than you by 15lbs and run 23 Pro One’s at 85/90. You might like lower pressure if you have not tried it out. It does seem counterintuitive to what we knew years ago but amazing enough, it works out great.

There is nothing about tubeless that makes them inherently less prone to flats. It the sealant that is used in the tires that makes them less prone to flats. You could easily use the same sealant in a tube to get the same flat free benefits.

You keep saying this but there are, literally, millions of Kevlar beaded tires that have been used, and are still being used, for tubeless. Carbon beads are only a recent development and only on a few tires. Most all of them are still using aramid fiber beads. That's another name for Kevlar. Kevlar also isn't a "stretchy" material.

[QUOTE=cyccommute;20616996]There is nothing about tubeless that makes them inherently less prone to flats. It the sealant that is used in the tires that makes them less prone to flats. You could easily use the same sealant in a tube to get the same flat free benefits.



You keep saying this but there are, literally, millions of Kevlar beaded tires that have been used, and are still being used, for tubeless. Carbon beads are only a recent development and only on a few tires. Most all of them are still using aramid fiber beads. That's another name for Kevlar. Kevlar also isn't a "stretchy.

You would be correct with respect to the use of Kevlar beads. Rather than just come about with a response I did a bit of research first. Did discover that some companies do go that route by do reinforce the bead for tubeless use. This seems to be especially true of tubeless ready tires. From the Vittoria website...

A tubeless ready bead allows the tire to be used either with a tube, or with just tire sealant (no tube). It is chosen for its unique performance. It locks into the rim wall to provide an airtight seal and ensure easy tubeless set-up, and to optimize air retention (minimize burping).

Vittoria tubeless-ready open tubular (TLR) shares the same production process and properties as the open tubular, with the addition of a stronger bead material (LCP). For optimal safety, this construction is designed to withstand 18 bar of pressure on a standard alloy tubeless rim.

Vittoria tubeless-ready open tubular road tyre selection:

• Competition: Corsa Speed

I would disagree about carbon bead material being a recent development though. When Hutchinson and Shimano we’re developing the tech in the early 2000’s carbon bead material was used specifically due to its lack of stretch compared to Kevlar beads of standard road clinchers. From Hutchinson’s website...

Road Tubeless

Road Tubeless tires are the height of current clincher technology. Bead to bead puncture protection and a butyl sealing liner, specific carbon beads define this techology. Road Tubeless technolgy was developed as the next generation of bicycle tire. Its advantage are excellent rolling resistance, fewer punctures (no pinch flats) and safer tire. In the instance of puncture, the tire stays on the rim. The Galactik the lightest version for the Road Tubeless family. This is a sub-250g. tire that defines a Road Tubeless racing tire.

Thanks for the lively exchange. I’ll bow out of this at this point.

Caveman Grog:
I took your advise and dropped the pressure in the rear to 90 psi as well as the front. It is a much nicer ride.
Thanks!
Rayzorx

Your argument makes no sense. If the pressure given is for performance, it should be the same for tube or tubeless. I'm reading the chart as the maximum pressure (not as recommendations) that the rim can hold with a tubeless tire. The maximum pressure a tubed tire can hold is 15% higher. It doesn't have to be run at 15% higher but it can be run at 15% higher because the tubed tire can hold the pressure better.

Plus the title of chart is a dead giveaway: "Maximum pressure in service for TC or TSS approved contours". Nothing about performance.

First, there is no "about" 12 psi. It is either 12 psi or not.

Second, you are giving far too much credit to tubeless. Many of us have ridden on a tire that is going flat with less than 70psi in it. Some of us have ridden with a tire at 70psi with a tube in it on purpose. I've toured on tires that I've had to lower the pressure on to that level so that I could ride the routes I had to ride. My touring bike has to carry my weight plus the weight of my gear. That's a lot of weight.

And third, even if tubeless tires won't pinch flat, low pressure in a tubeless can still bottom out on the rim and damage it. I see any number of tubeless wheels that have been ruined because people think that they can ride on flat tires and get away with it.

Thanks for the clarification. For me, this is a new bike and it came with tubleless rims and tires, so I just went with it and was pleasantly surprised at how well they perform. As for being a hassle, I will admit that the tubeless tires are a bit tighter going on the rim, but once on, there’s really no reason to take them off unless you get a real bad cut that the sealant won’t fix. For this situation, I always carry a tube and CO2 cartridges.

it really wasn’t much hassle other than the first set popping off the rim. All that’s really involved is cleaning the rim, and then taping it and installing the proper valve. It is a bit tricky adding the sealer without spilling it, but you could remove the valve core and inject the sealant that way. The new tires do take a few days to stop losing air over night.

I dont carry a spare spare tube on my local rides any more. On longer ride I would carry one just in case.

It is nice not worrying about small wires and what not causing flats. I suppose if you hit a big enough nail or screw you’re still going to flat.

-Matt

As an update to this thread, I’ve just installed my third set of Gavia AC1 tires on my bike. I got 2200 miles out of the second set. As of March 9, 2019 I will have gone one whole year on tubeless tires without a flat. Call me lucky I guess.

RayK

I’ve said it numerous times but apparently it bears repeating— if you don’t regularly get flats where you live, you don’t need tubeless. It’s not necessary. Prior to tubeless, I had two choices: Gator Hardshells or 2-3 flats per week. I basically don’t get flats anymore. I ride 10,000 miles a year in the glass and thorn capital of the world, and don’t get flats.

It’s not a hassle. It’s dealing with tire maintenance at home, with my bike in a stand, rather than on the side of the road. The fact that people can’t seem to get their heads around this is mind-boggling.