It's done! 1974 Raleigh Super Tourer rebuild
#27
bill nyecycles
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I went to my shop and they said they wouldn’t do it for liability reasons. Went to another shop (that I trust) and he said yeah no problem but he personally wouldn’t do it because it would compromise the integrity of the originality—not the frame lol.
A google search was not helpful since some people said yes it’s steel drill away and the other half were like dear god no that’s a terrible idea you’ll die!
So, yeah.
A google search was not helpful since some people said yes it’s steel drill away and the other half were like dear god no that’s a terrible idea you’ll die!
So, yeah.
#29
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i second this...strongly. soon as you start drilling/making holes you compromise the paint and it's the first place rust will start unless you take proper measures. it weakens the paint bond in that precise little spot. there are some really nice, classy looking cage clamps to be had. perhaps some heat shrink tubing done artfully around the clamps so as not to scratch up the paint. there's, of course, black, but there's also white and clear. otherwise, daaaannggg! so very nice build!
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I'm going to drill a Hercules 3 speed I have, I generally don't have cages on it, but I do take it on longer rides here and there so it will be nice to not fiddle with clamps when I do want to put cages on it.
If the cages will always be on the bike band clamps work just fine.
Last edited by jackbombay; 06-30-19 at 05:15 PM.
#31
bill nyecycles
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I got some clamps and put it on today. I wanted to get it drilled so it was a nice clean look with no bolt hanging down under the tube (I'm very specific about aesthetics). I also didn't want to chance the clamps or cage tabs scratching the paint - but to combat that I put some tape along the inside of the clamps, and on the bottom of the tabs.
Here's what it looks like
The bolts the clamps came with I think are too long for my taste - they stick out a lot and I hate it. So I'll have to see if I can find some shorter bolts.
Here's what it looks like
The bolts the clamps came with I think are too long for my taste - they stick out a lot and I hate it. So I'll have to see if I can find some shorter bolts.
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#32
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My friend and I bought Raleighs at the same shop at the same time. He got a Super Tourer, and I got a Gran Sport. The shop was offering an insanely good deal for Gran Sport buyers where they would replace the Simplex derailleurs and provide Huret Jubilee stuff, so I took that deal. I think he still has the Super Tourer.
I do recommend replacing the crappy brakes. You shouldn't mess around with sub-par brakes. I have Tektro brakes on my International. I mounted the rear in front of the seat stays, so it looks backward, but it works just fine.
I do recommend replacing the crappy brakes. You shouldn't mess around with sub-par brakes. I have Tektro brakes on my International. I mounted the rear in front of the seat stays, so it looks backward, but it works just fine.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#33
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I got some clamps and put it on today. I wanted to get it drilled so it was a nice clean look with no bolt hanging down under the tube (I'm very specific about aesthetics). I also didn't want to chance the clamps or cage tabs scratching the paint - but to combat that I put some tape along the inside of the clamps, and on the bottom of the tabs.
Here's what it looks like
The bolts the clamps came with I think are too long for my taste - they stick out a lot and I hate it. So I'll have to see if I can find some shorter bolts.
Here's what it looks like
The bolts the clamps came with I think are too long for my taste - they stick out a lot and I hate it. So I'll have to see if I can find some shorter bolts.
you might try some kool stop salmon pads for your brakes. otherwise, if still to no avail, i think some dia compe 500 sidepulls would be a swell looking replacement. i had some on my '82 trek and they stopped quite nicely. they do resemble the weinmann's a bit in design. i think weinmann and dia compe stuff usually resembled each other alot, anyway. the other factor simply may be your levers themselves. mechanical advantage and whatnot. someone more knowledgeable may care to elaborate on that. provided it continues to be an issue, of course
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-DIA...M/153516951067
#34
bill nyecycles
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So I'm already contemplating changing the bars and brakes. After 6 commutes I've been able to understand how the bike fits and works a little better. I love how the Rando bars look, but the angle at which the old hoods & levers sit, and the fact that the bike is actually 1 size too large, makes the reach a little harder - and my smaller hands have a hard time grabbing and pulling the levers.
I'm thinking about switching to either of these bars
Velo Orange Porteur Bars: https://velo-orange.com/collections/...nt=50647680263
or
Soma 3spd Moustache II Bar: https://www.somafab.com/archives/pro...ustache-ii-bar
I have no experience with either type of bar, but I like the look of them, and I need something that brings the reach down. Any thoughts as to which you would prefer and why?
My commute is more of a faster, drop bar style than an upright slow-poke style, if that helps. I've got some short steep hills to climb, too, so I'll need to be able to stand up and mash briefly from time to time. Otherwise, the bike will be an errand-runner/go-getter/grocery-shopper.
...and I suppose the follow up question would be - regular brake levers: https://velo-orange.com/collections/...-brakes-levers / https://velo-orange.com/collections/...-22-2-dia-bars
or bar end reverse levers? https://velo-orange.com/collections/...e-brake-levers
I'm thinking about switching to either of these bars
Velo Orange Porteur Bars: https://velo-orange.com/collections/...nt=50647680263
or
Soma 3spd Moustache II Bar: https://www.somafab.com/archives/pro...ustache-ii-bar
I have no experience with either type of bar, but I like the look of them, and I need something that brings the reach down. Any thoughts as to which you would prefer and why?
My commute is more of a faster, drop bar style than an upright slow-poke style, if that helps. I've got some short steep hills to climb, too, so I'll need to be able to stand up and mash briefly from time to time. Otherwise, the bike will be an errand-runner/go-getter/grocery-shopper.
...and I suppose the follow up question would be - regular brake levers: https://velo-orange.com/collections/...-brakes-levers / https://velo-orange.com/collections/...-22-2-dia-bars
or bar end reverse levers? https://velo-orange.com/collections/...e-brake-levers
#35
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I got some clamps and put it on today. I wanted to get it drilled so it was a nice clean look with no bolt hanging down under the tube (I'm very specific about aesthetics). I also didn't want to chance the clamps or cage tabs scratching the paint - but to combat that I put some tape along the inside of the clamps, and on the bottom of the tabs.
Here's what it looks like
The bolts the clamps came with I think are too long for my taste - they stick out a lot and I hate it. So I'll have to see if I can find some shorter bolts.
Here's what it looks like
The bolts the clamps came with I think are too long for my taste - they stick out a lot and I hate it. So I'll have to see if I can find some shorter bolts.
#36
bill nyecycles
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I'm not sure it's actually branded. I got it for cheap at a shop that was closing to move locations last week. Yes it's stainless, and had the tabs (bought the clamps at the same time). I'll see if I can find out where it came from.
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#37
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I used these on my ‘73 Raleigh supercourse.
Bottle clamps
Bottle clamps
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#38
bill nyecycles
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Finally was able to switch out the drop bars and the old levers/hoods that weren't working for me.
Replaced with Soma Late Riser bar, Brooks leather wrapped grips, and Tektro city levers.
The brakes work better now that I'm able to actually pull the levers better. They aren't perfect but they'll do for now, and I'll stay on the lookout for some better calipers.
It's also much more comfortable to ride in general so I'm happy with the switch. Thing is such a tank, though, lol.
Replaced with Soma Late Riser bar, Brooks leather wrapped grips, and Tektro city levers.
The brakes work better now that I'm able to actually pull the levers better. They aren't perfect but they'll do for now, and I'll stay on the lookout for some better calipers.
It's also much more comfortable to ride in general so I'm happy with the switch. Thing is such a tank, though, lol.
#39
Full Member
Always thought the Super Tourer was a good looking bike, though rarely ever saw one in person. Very distinct for it's time period. Upright handlebars and black Blumels fenders conjure up image of history professor riding across campus with a pipe in his mouth.
Very well done, maestro.
Very well done, maestro.
#40
bill nyecycles
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Well history was part of my double major in undergrad, AND I used to be a teacher - but not of history...does that come close at least?
#41
bill nyecycles
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In case anyone is interested in bike related long-form, I finally finished my write-up on restoring this bike: https://thesurlybiker.wordpress.com/...rocery-getter/
I suppose a lot of it was chronicled here, but, thought I'd share the post anyway!
I suppose a lot of it was chronicled here, but, thought I'd share the post anyway!
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