upgrading parts
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upgrading parts
I was wondering if i got a cheaper bike, is it possible to upgrade the components one at a time? For example if i Got a treck 1.2 road bike, could i upgrade the derailleurs to 105's and keep the shifters until i can afford 105 shifters? would i just have to buy a whole set at the same time?
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Within the cross compatibility of components you can do it piecemeal, but it costs WAY more than getting all together at the outset. Just price out the parts to see for yourself. Depending on your situation, it may make better sense to save up first, then get a complete bike with the components you want.
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Save up for a whole groupset and install them all at the same time. Or you could buy a bike with the components you want...it will be cheaper.
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I was wondering if i got a cheaper bike, is it possible to upgrade the components one at a time? For example if i Got a treck 1.2 road bike, could i upgrade the derailleurs to 105's and keep the shifters until i can afford 105 shifters? would i just have to buy a whole set at the same time?
Answering these questions for us might be more instrumental in getting better advice....
- Slim
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For years, all Shimano rear derailers would work with all Shimano shifters, and all front derailers would work with shifters of the same type (road or mountain). So it was possible to upgrade piecemeal. I've heard that the newer 11-speed has changed the pull ratio, so that will no longer be the case.
The other thing you'll have to watch out for is the number of speeds. Shifters have to match cassette; so if you bought a 9-speed bike, and Shimano then came out with 10 speed, the top of the line was only available in 10 speed. If you're careful about upgrading before the 12 and 13 speeds come out, you can probably get away with it; but as noted above, it'd probably be more cost-efficient to buy what you want now.
The other thing you'll have to watch out for is the number of speeds. Shifters have to match cassette; so if you bought a 9-speed bike, and Shimano then came out with 10 speed, the top of the line was only available in 10 speed. If you're careful about upgrading before the 12 and 13 speeds come out, you can probably get away with it; but as noted above, it'd probably be more cost-efficient to buy what you want now.
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Most Economical Way
I was wondering if i got a cheaper bike, is it possible to upgrade the components one at a time? For example if i Got a treck 1.2 road bike, could i upgrade the derailleurs to 105's and keep the shifters until i can afford 105 shifters? would i just have to buy a whole set at the same time?
Bottom line, there's no need to replace any component before it fails. If your abilities increase to the point that shifter/derailleur performance really matters, then progressed beyond where that bike'll take you. Worry about it then...
Good luck!
Phil
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Another considerations is how mechanical you are. If you're not mecanically inclined, you are gonna come out WAY cheaper to just buy a higher end bike up front.
I bought a cheap starter bike. Then I bought a decent entry level aluminum bike. Then I bought a better groupo to upgrade. Im currently having that group moved to a carbon frame. I've probably spent more than this complete set up would have cost in a single shot
Yup, I coulda been a a bit better bike for a lot less hassle. Of course, I've also learned a lot along the way. So I guess that counts for something.
I bought a cheap starter bike. Then I bought a decent entry level aluminum bike. Then I bought a better groupo to upgrade. Im currently having that group moved to a carbon frame. I've probably spent more than this complete set up would have cost in a single shot
Yup, I coulda been a a bit better bike for a lot less hassle. Of course, I've also learned a lot along the way. So I guess that counts for something.
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I was wondering if i got a cheaper bike, is it possible to upgrade the components one at a time? For example if i Got a treck 1.2 road bike, could i upgrade the derailleurs to 105's and keep the shifters until i can afford 105 shifters? would i just have to buy a whole set at the same time?
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Manufacturers will use one frame on a range of bikes and just use higher grade components as you go up the range.
Depends on the budget but I used to buy a bike for the frame. The lowest in the range will ride jst as good as the highest in the range- it just may not do it as efficiently or be as comfortable.
I knew that if Bought an MTB with cheap suspension forks- they would wear out quickly. If they wore out within a year then warranty would cover them and I could pay extra at the LBS and get an upgrade- That would work for any breakages while the bike was in warranty. But after that- If I wore out a Cheap derrailler- I would buy a replacement but upgrade it at the same time. Only problem is there are certain things that will never Be changed. Bars and stem-Seat post and the number of gears on the bike. It is just not economical to change those. If you want 10 speed gears- then don't buy an 8 speed bike. To upgrade to 10 from 8 in one hit will cost a cassette- changers and chain.
Best way to upgrade though is to buy the right bike in the first place- but accept a slightly lower spec. Ultegra or XT is nice- but 105 or LX works just aswell and is cheaper. Just a bit of extra weight- slight loss of Life of components and a big hit on Bling.
Depends on the budget but I used to buy a bike for the frame. The lowest in the range will ride jst as good as the highest in the range- it just may not do it as efficiently or be as comfortable.
I knew that if Bought an MTB with cheap suspension forks- they would wear out quickly. If they wore out within a year then warranty would cover them and I could pay extra at the LBS and get an upgrade- That would work for any breakages while the bike was in warranty. But after that- If I wore out a Cheap derrailler- I would buy a replacement but upgrade it at the same time. Only problem is there are certain things that will never Be changed. Bars and stem-Seat post and the number of gears on the bike. It is just not economical to change those. If you want 10 speed gears- then don't buy an 8 speed bike. To upgrade to 10 from 8 in one hit will cost a cassette- changers and chain.
Best way to upgrade though is to buy the right bike in the first place- but accept a slightly lower spec. Ultegra or XT is nice- but 105 or LX works just aswell and is cheaper. Just a bit of extra weight- slight loss of Life of components and a big hit on Bling.
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I'm a broke college student. I'm just trying to find cheaper ways to upgrade as I become a stronger cyclist. I'm looking at starter bikes in the $600 to $700 range. I'm just trying to grasp all the possibilities before i dump a bunch of cash. thanks
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I think it is cheaper to upgrade worn parts from a more inexpensive bike than to have purchased a higher end bike to begin with, since you'll have wear and tear either way.
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Upgrading can be done reasonably if you're patient and keep your eyes open, and do the wrenching yourself. You also have to know what you are looking for and do your own research on what works with what.
Here's an example
https://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?ID=113672
They are not available anymore, because guys like me bought a couple of them.
Here's an example
https://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?ID=113672
They are not available anymore, because guys like me bought a couple of them.
#19
we be rollin'
I did something weird just for the fun of it. I calculated what would happen if I spent $400 for a GT Traffic 3.0 then modified it to my taste. If I changed the wheels to Handspun Deore LX front and rear with a dynamo hub at the front, let's say with shipping and duty in Canada it might cost $360. And then let's say a crankset would cost $120 then SKS Chainboard chainguard, pedals, reflectors for pedals, grip tape for pedals (non-slip in rain), bottom bracket, aluminium cup for left side of bottom bracket, Falcon friction shifters $110, Busch & Muller dynamo light $120 and labor cost $90, I end up paying $1200. ($400 + $360 + $120 + $110 + $120 + $90 = $1200)
However, if I'm using the frame, fork, headset, headset spacers, stem, handlebars, grips, brake levers, brakes, seatpost clamp, seatpost and saddle on the GT Traffic 3.0, then buying piece by piece might only cost me $361.
Nashbar touring frame $100
Nashbar touring fork $50
headset $30
headset spacers $6
stem $25
handlebars $15
grips $5
brake levers $25
brakes $50
seatpost $15
seatpost clamp $5
saddle $35
So, in reality, buying the bike might be looked at as almost useless instead of building piece by piece EXCEPT if you're somewhat poor and can only replace parts one at a time. Well, OK, maybe some would need to be done at the same time like the crankset, bottom bracket, pedals and chainguard.
Whatever, it's interesting to look at it and think about it. I still think however that if you build a bike part by part and find excellent deals on some parts, it could be possible in theory to get a better bicycle for the money. I mean in Canada, the Trek 520 cost $1700 in a store. I think you may be able to do better than that with parts on sale. Plus, if you wanted flat bars instead of drop bars and a dynamo hub with dynamo light etc., it would be completely customized for you instead of being forced to accept what's available in a complete bike. I mean some complete bikes will include a Shimano BB-UN26 bottom bracket instead of the Shimano BB-UN54 and also a Shimano dynamo hub that has more than 6 watts of drag instead of their models that have only over 2 watts of drag. Plus, the dynamo light they'll put on there might only put out 25 lux of light instead of the models with either 40 lux of even 60 lux of light.
I suppose some people may want to accept a compromise except when you get to a point where you're fed up and think if you only live once, it may be worth it to have your dream bike at least once in your life even if someone eventually steals it.
However, if I'm using the frame, fork, headset, headset spacers, stem, handlebars, grips, brake levers, brakes, seatpost clamp, seatpost and saddle on the GT Traffic 3.0, then buying piece by piece might only cost me $361.
Nashbar touring frame $100
Nashbar touring fork $50
headset $30
headset spacers $6
stem $25
handlebars $15
grips $5
brake levers $25
brakes $50
seatpost $15
seatpost clamp $5
saddle $35
So, in reality, buying the bike might be looked at as almost useless instead of building piece by piece EXCEPT if you're somewhat poor and can only replace parts one at a time. Well, OK, maybe some would need to be done at the same time like the crankset, bottom bracket, pedals and chainguard.
Whatever, it's interesting to look at it and think about it. I still think however that if you build a bike part by part and find excellent deals on some parts, it could be possible in theory to get a better bicycle for the money. I mean in Canada, the Trek 520 cost $1700 in a store. I think you may be able to do better than that with parts on sale. Plus, if you wanted flat bars instead of drop bars and a dynamo hub with dynamo light etc., it would be completely customized for you instead of being forced to accept what's available in a complete bike. I mean some complete bikes will include a Shimano BB-UN26 bottom bracket instead of the Shimano BB-UN54 and also a Shimano dynamo hub that has more than 6 watts of drag instead of their models that have only over 2 watts of drag. Plus, the dynamo light they'll put on there might only put out 25 lux of light instead of the models with either 40 lux of even 60 lux of light.
I suppose some people may want to accept a compromise except when you get to a point where you're fed up and think if you only live once, it may be worth it to have your dream bike at least once in your life even if someone eventually steals it.