Mountain vs. touring bike sizing
04-25-19, 11:56 AM
#26
cowboy, steel horse, etc
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Quill stem swap can be made easy if you use ones with removable faceplates.
04-25-19, 01:17 PM
#27
Senior Member
I always remember changing the stem on my old tourer, and then always thinking often how it would have been nice to had had one slightly shorter, but then simply just never got around to taking the time to take the bar tape off, the taped on under housings +cables, remove a hood, to change it--and so never did. The same bike to this day has the same stem on, which sometimes makes me chuckle as I ride it on my indoor trainer and remember riding it in France all those years ago.
to be fair, its pretty close, and I probably tried a few stores back then to find one that would bring the bars back just a cm or so, but either didnt find any or they were too expensive for me as a student, and I just lived with it.
Oddly enough, I think Im more flexible now, as riding it stationary now for many years has been pretty good, and actually gives me a good back stretch while Im at it!
04-25-19, 03:48 PM
#28
Senior Member
My BG Rock&Road was built with a quill stem back in the day before uncut steerers and high head tubes were in vogue. I installed a 1"> 1 1/8" threadless adaptor to use a more modern clamp on stem. Its been quite convenient as I've tweaked my stem length/rise twice. I used a long riser that also brought the bars up 3+ inches.
https://tinyurl.com/y4gt4hay
The quill stem on the OP's bike places the bars at a good touring height. If the reach is good, probably no need to change it. If OP wanted to swap for adaptor + threadless stem perhaps the existing clamp could be pried open and cut with sawzall to replace without HB tape and brake lever removal. The largest choice of stem rise and length would likely be 31.8 HB clamp size which can be shimmed down to 26 or 25.4 if need be.
https://tinyurl.com/y4gt4hay
The quill stem on the OP's bike places the bars at a good touring height. If the reach is good, probably no need to change it. If OP wanted to swap for adaptor + threadless stem perhaps the existing clamp could be pried open and cut with sawzall to replace without HB tape and brake lever removal. The largest choice of stem rise and length would likely be 31.8 HB clamp size which can be shimmed down to 26 or 25.4 if need be.
04-29-19, 06:44 PM
#29
Newbie
Thread Starter
With bar end shifters and similar type shifters, there is a certain technique of shifting that helps with index shifting, so hopefully only a small adjustment is perhaps necessary, and or maybe just a bit more riding and getting used to the shifting "feel" for the shifters. One of my bikes has the same type of shifters, mounted in a diff spot, but even when everything is adjusted properly, when you shift you need to go a smidge past the click of the indexing and then back a bit , for a smooth proper shift. But its not a problem, and once you get the feel for it, its perfectly fine and Ive spent months riding that bike on trips.
on another positive note (apologies for the negative angle I wrote before) I have ridden a lot loaded up on frames very similar to this bike, my old 90s mtb and a 90s hybrid, and both behave very well with two heavy rear panniers--and looking at this frame, I am sure that it will be the same.
on another positive note (apologies for the negative angle I wrote before) I have ridden a lot loaded up on frames very similar to this bike, my old 90s mtb and a 90s hybrid, and both behave very well with two heavy rear panniers--and looking at this frame, I am sure that it will be the same.
04-29-19, 06:57 PM
#30
Senior Member
No worries about the negative comment above, I appreciate all input! I've been adjusting to the shifters and think I've got it but the chain slipped into a different gear twice today. Both times it was the front gear dropping from the middle chainring to the smallest when I changed to an easier gear on the back. One time it even slipped to the small chainring and then off completely. Any ideas on why this might be?
04-29-19, 08:17 PM
#31
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I always remember changing the stem on my old tourer, and then always thinking often how it would have been nice to had had one slightly shorter, but then simply just never got around to taking the time to take the bar tape off, the taped on under housings +cables, remove a hood, to change it--and so never did. The same bike to this day has the same stem on, ...
I always remember changing the stem on my old tourer, and then always thinking often how it would have been nice to had had one slightly shorter, but then simply just never got around to taking the time to take the bar tape off, the taped on under housings +cables, remove a hood, to change it--and so never did. The same bike to this day has the same stem on, ...
04-30-19, 04:19 AM
#32
Senior Member
Absolutely makes sense to make that change. My old bike has other issues, so isn't ridden on the road anymore, but as you say, this is the best route to go.
I remember that bike, it's a handsome one.
I remember that bike, it's a handsome one.
04-30-19, 01:40 PM
#33
Banned
But Bianchi USA is not getting bikes made in Italy.. (has not, for decades) Volpe and all the MTB are pac rim..
size ; is usually seat tube length along its length , cockpit; top tube + stem
Above was quoting CONI , written for 1960 Rome olympics .. online scans are to be found..
Plumb line , vertical , to BB axis divides top tube
' reach' , is ahead of that , to head tube center ...
set back, behind (includes seat tube angle + frame height (thigh length fitting)
...
size ; is usually seat tube length along its length , cockpit; top tube + stem
Above was quoting CONI , written for 1960 Rome olympics .. online scans are to be found..
Plumb line , vertical , to BB axis divides top tube
' reach' , is ahead of that , to head tube center ...
set back, behind (includes seat tube angle + frame height (thigh length fitting)
...
