Is it time for a new bike?
08-25-19, 11:40 AM
#26
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You have ten posts now so you should be able to post images of your bike.
On my MTB rigid front fork hardtail bikes I use an adjustable stem and drop handlebar for touring.
Cheers
On my MTB rigid front fork hardtail bikes I use an adjustable stem and drop handlebar for touring.
Cheers
08-25-19, 12:05 PM
#27
Senior Member
if you go with the quill-threadless adapter, you can then hit the parts bin at your lbs, try out a variety of lengths and rises easily. there are other styles of adapter, some easier to adjust height than others.
08-25-19, 12:21 PM
#28
Member
Thread Starter
[/QUOTE]
Sweet! I can finally post pictures. Here's one of the bike with the new adjustable stem and a close up of the stem and bars.
08-25-19, 12:25 PM
#29
Member
Thread Starter
it appears you've gotten a new quill stem that allows height adjustment, but has a fixed shorter reach. is that right? and it's 50mm shorter! 2" shorter would be a pretty drastic change.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mountain-Ro.../163682636510?
if you go with the quill-threadless adapter, you can then hit the parts bin at your lbs, try out a variety of lengths and rises easily. there are other styles of adapter, some easier to adjust height than others.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mountain-Ro.../163682636510?
if you go with the quill-threadless adapter, you can then hit the parts bin at your lbs, try out a variety of lengths and rises easily. there are other styles of adapter, some easier to adjust height than others.
08-25-19, 02:34 PM
#30
Senior Member
bike seats really do work best when level, yours is really canted forward way too much. A forward slant puts your weight forward onto your hands.
Thats also a heck of a lot of seatpost showing. The frame is most likely too small for you if you ahve to have that much seatpost showing--and now to an important point--all seatposts have a hard to see "minimum insert" mark on them, if your seatpost is a regular one, length wise, then yoiu are most likely way the heck past this point, and this is dangerous structurally , ie DONT DO IT. Maybe you bought an extra long seatpost, but if not, check out for this mark, you will able to see it if you look closely. It might also be under that rack attachment.
bottom line, be sure you arent past it, as a failure could happen and you dont want that, it wont be pretty or pain free.
The seat post has to be inserted into the frame a minimum distance for the post to be able to handle a riders weight safely.
google this to see what I mean--the "minimum insert" line I mean, so you can see what to look for.
I see you have put the seat as far back as it can go, thats ok, but do put it more level.
Thats also a heck of a lot of seatpost showing. The frame is most likely too small for you if you ahve to have that much seatpost showing--and now to an important point--all seatposts have a hard to see "minimum insert" mark on them, if your seatpost is a regular one, length wise, then yoiu are most likely way the heck past this point, and this is dangerous structurally , ie DONT DO IT. Maybe you bought an extra long seatpost, but if not, check out for this mark, you will able to see it if you look closely. It might also be under that rack attachment.
bottom line, be sure you arent past it, as a failure could happen and you dont want that, it wont be pretty or pain free.
The seat post has to be inserted into the frame a minimum distance for the post to be able to handle a riders weight safely.
google this to see what I mean--the "minimum insert" line I mean, so you can see what to look for.
I see you have put the seat as far back as it can go, thats ok, but do put it more level.
08-25-19, 02:41 PM
#31
Member
Thread Starter
bike seats really do work best when level, yours is really canted forward way too much. A forward slant puts your weight forward onto your hands.
Thats also a heck of a lot of seatpost showing. The frame is most likely too small for you if you ahve to have that much seatpost showing--and now to an important point--all seatposts have a hard to see "minimum insert" mark on them, if your seatpost is a regular one, length wise, then yoiu are most likely way the heck past this point, and this is dangerous structurally , ie DONT DO IT. Maybe you bought an extra long seatpost, but if not, check out for this mark, you will able to see it if you look closely. It might also be under that rack attachment.
bottom line, be sure you arent past it, as a failure could happen and you dont want that, it wont be pretty or pain free.
The seat post has to be inserted into the frame a minimum distance for the post to be able to handle a riders weight safely.
google this to see what I mean--the "minimum insert" line I mean, so you can see what to look for.
I see you have put the seat as far back as it can go, thats ok, but do put it more level.
Thats also a heck of a lot of seatpost showing. The frame is most likely too small for you if you ahve to have that much seatpost showing--and now to an important point--all seatposts have a hard to see "minimum insert" mark on them, if your seatpost is a regular one, length wise, then yoiu are most likely way the heck past this point, and this is dangerous structurally , ie DONT DO IT. Maybe you bought an extra long seatpost, but if not, check out for this mark, you will able to see it if you look closely. It might also be under that rack attachment.
bottom line, be sure you arent past it, as a failure could happen and you dont want that, it wont be pretty or pain free.
The seat post has to be inserted into the frame a minimum distance for the post to be able to handle a riders weight safely.
google this to see what I mean--the "minimum insert" line I mean, so you can see what to look for.
I see you have put the seat as far back as it can go, thats ok, but do put it more level.
08-25-19, 05:04 PM
#32
Senior Member
I am honestly not sure why the seat is tilted that much. I noticed that too when i looked at the picture. I was attempting to tweak it a bit while riding today so my guess it I put it way more forward than I realized. I know about the minimum insertion for seatposts. I am not maxed out and there is actually at least another inch to go before the max line. But yeah, looking at it I am wondering if I need a bigger bike...
off hand, how tall are you, and what size is the bike? ie how long is the toptube and part of frame under the seat, in cms
as a reference, Im about 5 10, and ride medium frames, or about 54-56ish cm toptubes.
A bike of your age generally will be a 19" or 21" or whatever , and this is the seat tube length.
mind you, a neighbour of ours is a big tall feller, and he rode a bike with similar seatpost length as you for years and years, so its not necessarily the end of the world I guess....
08-25-19, 05:45 PM
#33
Member
Thread Starter
good on the seatpost--I bring it up because a neighbour once had a bike with the seatpost way past the mark, and he is a big big bloke--it would not have been pretty if it had gone--he had no idea about that mark, and wasnt overly concerned when I showed it to him.
off hand, how tall are you, and what size is the bike? ie how long is the toptube and part of frame under the seat, in cms
as a reference, Im about 5 10, and ride medium frames, or about 54-56ish cm toptubes.
A bike of your age generally will be a 19" or 21" or whatever , and this is the seat tube length.
mind you, a neighbour of ours is a big tall feller, and he rode a bike with similar seatpost length as you for years and years, so its not necessarily the end of the world I guess....
off hand, how tall are you, and what size is the bike? ie how long is the toptube and part of frame under the seat, in cms
as a reference, Im about 5 10, and ride medium frames, or about 54-56ish cm toptubes.
A bike of your age generally will be a 19" or 21" or whatever , and this is the seat tube length.
mind you, a neighbour of ours is a big tall feller, and he rode a bike with similar seatpost length as you for years and years, so its not necessarily the end of the world I guess....
08-25-19, 06:53 PM
#34
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I'll second the importance of checking on how much of that seatpost is inside the frame. You want at least 2 inches inside the seat-tube BELOW the toptube. Otherwise the torque on the seatpost can either bend it, break it or worse break the frame where the seatpost goes into the seat-tube.
It does appear as though the frame is too small for you but perhaps that's the size you find most comfortable for some reason..
Good luck and cheers.
It does appear as though the frame is too small for you but perhaps that's the size you find most comfortable for some reason..
Good luck and cheers.
08-25-19, 07:01 PM
#35
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There is no need to wonder- it's quite clear the bike is too small. Between the sestpost showing and the massive stem, a much larger frame would fit better.
But hey- people ride all sorts of curious sized bikes. If you like it, then ignore us.
But hey- people ride all sorts of curious sized bikes. If you like it, then ignore us.
08-25-19, 07:10 PM
#36
Member
Thread Starter
I'll second the importance of checking on how much of that seatpost is inside the frame. You want at least 2 inches inside the seat-tube BELOW the toptube. Otherwise the torque on the seatpost can either bend it, break it or worse break the frame where the seatpost goes into the seat-tube.
It does appear as though the frame is too small for you but perhaps that's the size you find most comfortable for some reason..
Good luck and cheers.
It does appear as though the frame is too small for you but perhaps that's the size you find most comfortable for some reason..
Good luck and cheers.
08-25-19, 07:14 PM
#37
Senior Member
I guess I fall in the big tall feller category at 6'3". Frame size is 21" and top tube length is 23". I do realize that it's probably not the ideal frame size for me which might explain why I couldn't get the bars seat level with the original stem. I don't feel like a big guy on a tiny bike when I ride it, but I am aware that I should probably get a bigger frame for my next bike.
A good friend of mine is about your height and I think rides a 60cm frame, and could have it a bit bigger--but in the end, stem choices make up a big difference with a few cms here or there making the diff.
check out this general chart that shows the range ish of frame sizing to people
https://surlybikes.com/uploads/downl...hart_OL_VF.pdf
in any case, you could easily get a stem that is the right length in the vertical, but with a longer forward part, or go the route of the vertical only threaded to threadless or whatever its called thing, and then be able to switch and try diff actual stems until you find a length and angle that works.
plus, you are also trying to get into regular riding, so with a few parts, you could make this bike be fairly close fit wise, and concentrate on getting out regularly and build up fitness and endurance.
and then if you really want to continue biking and maybe tour again, you'll have a much better idea of what works for you if and when you look at another bike. Large and extra large used bikes are less common, but again, can also perhaps find a good deal because of the fact that they are harder to sell.
Anyway, thats down the road.
tire, there are so many good tires out there, visit a good bike store and they can recommend stuff.
You should be able to put on a reasonably priced rear rack also, and hopefully not have heel strike problems, but hard to tell given that its a small frame for you.
08-25-19, 07:32 PM
#38
Member
Thread Starter
Hey, if I wanted to ignore you guys I wouldn't be on here in the first place! Maybe I've been living in denial and I do kind of like this bike, but I think I'm starting to realize a new bike is in order. I'm happy with my new seat and grips, but I think I'll stop there in trying to improve this bike. I'll keep riding it as is while I try to decide what to get.
So to answer my original question: I do think its time for a new bike. Now the question is what kind of bike to get...
08-25-19, 07:41 PM
#39
Senior Member
To me, the most important thing is to ride regularly. Not everyone can commute due to lots of reasons, but it sure as heck is the best way to bike many times a week, because it's only with regular riding and over time that we get fit and begin to notice it getting easier.
I hope you can fit bike riding into your life, and enjoy riding.
I hope you can fit bike riding into your life, and enjoy riding.
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08-25-19, 08:01 PM
#40
Member
Thread Starter
At 5'10-11, three of my bikes have top tubes of about 23 inches, so this is clearly too small for you.
A good friend of mine is about your height and I think rides a 60cm frame, and could have it a bit bigger--but in the end, stem choices make up a big difference with a few cms here or there making the diff.
check out this general chart that shows the range ish of frame sizing to people
https://surlybikes.com/uploads/downl...hart_OL_VF.pdf
in any case, you could easily get a stem that is the right length in the vertical, but with a longer forward part, or go the route of the vertical only threaded to threadless or whatever its called thing, and then be able to switch and try diff actual stems until you find a length and angle that works.
plus, you are also trying to get into regular riding, so with a few parts, you could make this bike be fairly close fit wise, and concentrate on getting out regularly and build up fitness and endurance.
and then if you really want to continue biking and maybe tour again, you'll have a much better idea of what works for you if and when you look at another bike. Large and extra large used bikes are less common, but again, can also perhaps find a good deal because of the fact that they are harder to sell.
Anyway, thats down the road.
tire, there are so many good tires out there, visit a good bike store and they can recommend stuff.
You should be able to put on a reasonably priced rear rack also, and hopefully not have heel strike problems, but hard to tell given that its a small frame for you.
A good friend of mine is about your height and I think rides a 60cm frame, and could have it a bit bigger--but in the end, stem choices make up a big difference with a few cms here or there making the diff.
check out this general chart that shows the range ish of frame sizing to people
https://surlybikes.com/uploads/downl...hart_OL_VF.pdf
in any case, you could easily get a stem that is the right length in the vertical, but with a longer forward part, or go the route of the vertical only threaded to threadless or whatever its called thing, and then be able to switch and try diff actual stems until you find a length and angle that works.
plus, you are also trying to get into regular riding, so with a few parts, you could make this bike be fairly close fit wise, and concentrate on getting out regularly and build up fitness and endurance.
and then if you really want to continue biking and maybe tour again, you'll have a much better idea of what works for you if and when you look at another bike. Large and extra large used bikes are less common, but again, can also perhaps find a good deal because of the fact that they are harder to sell.
Anyway, thats down the road.
tire, there are so many good tires out there, visit a good bike store and they can recommend stuff.
You should be able to put on a reasonably priced rear rack also, and hopefully not have heel strike problems, but hard to tell given that its a small frame for you.
Thanks for all your advice. I do think somewhere between the original stem and my current one might be the best it can get on this bike. However, I am fine riding the bike as is for now, and I think it is time for me to start shopping for a new bike with a proper frame size.
What you describe was my idea exactly, to ride this bike while I gain experience to make a more educated choice. It will probably take me a while to figure out what to get, but I do think there is a new bike in my future.
08-25-19, 10:13 PM
#41
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I think that you're very smart to use this bike to figure out just what you want, like, need, in your next bike.
If you're using this bike mostly on pavment then you might want to look into getting 1.5" slick tires for it. Those REALLY help to make pedaling a LOT easier or more speed for the same effort.
I hope that you get a lot of enjoyment out of this bike.
Cheers
If you're using this bike mostly on pavment then you might want to look into getting 1.5" slick tires for it. Those REALLY help to make pedaling a LOT easier or more speed for the same effort.
I hope that you get a lot of enjoyment out of this bike.
Cheers
08-26-19, 04:51 AM
#42
Member
Thread Starter
I think that you're very smart to use this bike to figure out just what you want, like, need, in your next bike.
If you're using this bike mostly on pavment then you might want to look into getting 1.5" slick tires for it. Those REALLY help to make pedaling a LOT easier or more speed for the same effort.
I hope that you get a lot of enjoyment out of this bike.
Cheers
If you're using this bike mostly on pavment then you might want to look into getting 1.5" slick tires for it. Those REALLY help to make pedaling a LOT easier or more speed for the same effort.
I hope that you get a lot of enjoyment out of this bike.
Cheers
08-26-19, 08:38 AM
#43
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Don't sweat the size in the short term. My mtb is also too small and I can't tell you ho many miles in all sorts of conditions I've ridden it in. The new bike will still be there when you are ready.
Back to the seat position for a second: Experiment with the level to find what works for you.
If the seat is sloped too far forward, as in the pic, you will put too much pressure on your hands. You'll be holding your weight off the bars. This leads to the complaint of sore shoulders or numb wrists.
If the seat is sloped too far back (nose up) it will cause soreness or numbness in the perineum (the part of your body between the the penis and anus). The nose will poke you in the pecker. Obviously this advice is gender biased and women will need to make the necessary conversions
In between is where you want to be. You should be able to gently hold the bars but not lean heavily on them. Some core strength/conditioning also comes into play.
With flat bars this is pretty easy to find but with drop bars it can be a bit more tricky as you have to decide what position you ride in more. Perfect for flats position puts abit of pressure on the perineum when in the drops and perfect in the drops leaves you a little forward weighted when on the flats. But there still is a sweet spot.
Back to the seat position for a second: Experiment with the level to find what works for you.
If the seat is sloped too far forward, as in the pic, you will put too much pressure on your hands. You'll be holding your weight off the bars. This leads to the complaint of sore shoulders or numb wrists.
If the seat is sloped too far back (nose up) it will cause soreness or numbness in the perineum (the part of your body between the the penis and anus). The nose will poke you in the pecker. Obviously this advice is gender biased and women will need to make the necessary conversions
In between is where you want to be. You should be able to gently hold the bars but not lean heavily on them. Some core strength/conditioning also comes into play.
With flat bars this is pretty easy to find but with drop bars it can be a bit more tricky as you have to decide what position you ride in more. Perfect for flats position puts abit of pressure on the perineum when in the drops and perfect in the drops leaves you a little forward weighted when on the flats. But there still is a sweet spot.
Last edited by Happy Feet; 08-26-19 at 08:43 AM.
08-26-19, 12:52 PM
#44
Member
Thread Starter
Don't sweat the size in the short term. My mtb is also too small and I can't tell you ho many miles in all sorts of conditions I've ridden it in. The new bike will still be there when you are ready.
Back to the seat position for a second: Experiment with the level to find what works for you.
Back to the seat position for a second: Experiment with the level to find what works for you.
I have started shopping for a new bike, but it is nice to not be in a rush, so I will just wait for the stars to align.
08-26-19, 03:39 PM
#45
Senior Member
glad it is working relatively well fit wise now.
Now as for fitness and wanting to do a 100km ride, thats a big step from shorter rides, and regular riding every day or so really is the best way to gradually work into it, and figure out small little changes of position, and to gradually increase the distances ridden.
do look into some bike stores for padded bike shorts, they make a diff.
You may have never worn some before, they should fit snug, not loose, but obviously not too tight.
Prudish folks may baulk, but so you know, you dont wear underwear under them. The whole idea of the fit and the chamois padding is to reduce friction, so no undies as it just bunches up and or just rubs and makes friction.
Im not making this stuff up, cyclists dont wear underwear under padded bike shorts.
be realistic about doing 100kms, I mean in 5 days its "next month" so you might find it pretty hard and or not have the bike seat etc dialed in, seat height also.
Good luck whatever you do, but just ride, ride young man! (ya, you didnt say if you are 60 and overweight and never exercise, or 45 and pretty fit....not that it matters to us, but will be a factor to how gradually you should work into longer rides etc)
Now as for fitness and wanting to do a 100km ride, thats a big step from shorter rides, and regular riding every day or so really is the best way to gradually work into it, and figure out small little changes of position, and to gradually increase the distances ridden.
do look into some bike stores for padded bike shorts, they make a diff.
You may have never worn some before, they should fit snug, not loose, but obviously not too tight.
Prudish folks may baulk, but so you know, you dont wear underwear under them. The whole idea of the fit and the chamois padding is to reduce friction, so no undies as it just bunches up and or just rubs and makes friction.
Im not making this stuff up, cyclists dont wear underwear under padded bike shorts.
be realistic about doing 100kms, I mean in 5 days its "next month" so you might find it pretty hard and or not have the bike seat etc dialed in, seat height also.
Good luck whatever you do, but just ride, ride young man! (ya, you didnt say if you are 60 and overweight and never exercise, or 45 and pretty fit....not that it matters to us, but will be a factor to how gradually you should work into longer rides etc)
08-26-19, 05:05 PM
#46
Member
Thread Starter
glad it is working relatively well fit wise now.
Now as for fitness and wanting to do a 100km ride, thats a big step from shorter rides, and regular riding every day or so really is the best way to gradually work into it, and figure out small little changes of position, and to gradually increase the distances ridden.
do look into some bike stores for padded bike shorts, they make a diff.
You may have never worn some before, they should fit snug, not loose, but obviously not too tight.
Prudish folks may baulk, but so you know, you dont wear underwear under them. The whole idea of the fit and the chamois padding is to reduce friction, so no undies as it just bunches up and or just rubs and makes friction.
Im not making this stuff up, cyclists dont wear underwear under padded bike shorts.
be realistic about doing 100kms, I mean in 5 days its "next month" so you might find it pretty hard and or not have the bike seat etc dialed in, seat height also.
Good luck whatever you do, but just ride, ride young man! (ya, you didnt say if you are 60 and overweight and never exercise, or 45 and pretty fit....not that it matters to us, but will be a factor to how gradually you should work into longer rides etc)
Now as for fitness and wanting to do a 100km ride, thats a big step from shorter rides, and regular riding every day or so really is the best way to gradually work into it, and figure out small little changes of position, and to gradually increase the distances ridden.
do look into some bike stores for padded bike shorts, they make a diff.
You may have never worn some before, they should fit snug, not loose, but obviously not too tight.
Prudish folks may baulk, but so you know, you dont wear underwear under them. The whole idea of the fit and the chamois padding is to reduce friction, so no undies as it just bunches up and or just rubs and makes friction.
Im not making this stuff up, cyclists dont wear underwear under padded bike shorts.
be realistic about doing 100kms, I mean in 5 days its "next month" so you might find it pretty hard and or not have the bike seat etc dialed in, seat height also.
Good luck whatever you do, but just ride, ride young man! (ya, you didnt say if you are 60 and overweight and never exercise, or 45 and pretty fit....not that it matters to us, but will be a factor to how gradually you should work into longer rides etc)
As for my 100km goal: I have been working myself up to do longer distances. I started doing rides in the 10 mile range and then kept adding distance little by little. My local loop that I try to do several times a week is 15 miles, but my weekend rides have gotten longer and longer. I did my first 50 mile ride last weekend with my old handlebar setup and my biggest issue was a sore neck, which I feel has been alleviated by my higher bars. I am not quite 40 yet, I used to be at least in decent shape, but then life stuff happened and I gained a few pounds from being sedentary. I am down 40 pounds so far and no longer obese. I still have a little ways to go, but I am feeling pretty good. While I certainly feel it after a 40-50 mile ride, I still feel I have energy to do more as long as I'm relative comfortable and pace myself right, so i feel adding another 12 miles is within reach. I would like to do this in September or early October and hopefully take advantage of some nice fall bike weather, but I won't push myself if I don't feel up to it.
08-26-19, 05:14 PM
#47
Senior Member
all reasonable distances then , and good gradual increasing.
and thats completely normal to feel a 40-50 mile ride, and yes, with regular riding, doing a bit more is very much realistic.
sounds like you are very much on your way, and really, the rest is just riding and riding and getting gradually stronger.
Shoes that have stiffer soles will be an advantage, less flex for your feet and a bit more transfer of your energy into the pedals.
and as you say, pacing, drinking and eating as you go are big factors, and you soon figure out what works.
and thats completely normal to feel a 40-50 mile ride, and yes, with regular riding, doing a bit more is very much realistic.
sounds like you are very much on your way, and really, the rest is just riding and riding and getting gradually stronger.
Shoes that have stiffer soles will be an advantage, less flex for your feet and a bit more transfer of your energy into the pedals.
and as you say, pacing, drinking and eating as you go are big factors, and you soon figure out what works.
09-29-19, 05:50 PM
#48
Member
Thread Starter
Just a quick update and another thank you to all of you who helped me think through this!
I have continued to ride this bike and I have not yet bought a new one. I am still thinking of a new bike, but I still don't know what I want and my old mountain bike is actually serving me quite well. I am comfortable on it for the most part, and I just did my first metric century ride so all is good. I just have a seat and shorts issue I need to figure out, but that's not really specific to this bike I would think.
So thanks again everyone!
I have continued to ride this bike and I have not yet bought a new one. I am still thinking of a new bike, but I still don't know what I want and my old mountain bike is actually serving me quite well. I am comfortable on it for the most part, and I just did my first metric century ride so all is good. I just have a seat and shorts issue I need to figure out, but that's not really specific to this bike I would think.
So thanks again everyone!
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