sailorbenjamin

You can't grip them tight enough to turn them without crushing their little heads and it's really hard to drill them out without going right through and screwing up the part of the caliper where they seat and then the easyout brakes off down inside and it's all over cause you can't drill drill an easy out with a bit that I can afford.
I guess I didn't really need to bleed that caliper anyway.
I suppose I should be posting this over at the Volvo forum but I hardly know those guys.

auchencrow

Trust me. Nothing sucks worse than a stuck seat post:
If your Volvo had a seat post, you'd be scrapping your Volvo and saving the calipers.

Flying Merkel

I had good luck clamping small Vise-grips on stuck bleeders, then smacking gently but firmly with a hammer. Never broke one. Don't think I'm this brave anymore. I was a teacher's aide in a VW repair. Replacement parts were cheap and easy to get.

satbuilder 

Did that to the rear caliper on a '66 vette I used to have. Machine shop had to use a special bit to get the easy out out of there. I feel your pain.
Wish I still had the car.

aramis

Soak it with PB blaster overnight. Go get a brand new pair of vise grips so the teeth will get a nice firm grip on the bleeder. Give it a quick hard push (using a breaker bar here is optional) and it should come off really easily.

Worst case get a rebuilt caliper. Unless it's some uber rare caliper they aren't expensive or hard to get.

IthaDan 

I've had the most luck by giving up on trying to salvage the line- a broken bolt means you have to re-flare it anyway, JUST DO IT then cutting the hardline and pounding a 12 deep socked on to the bolt. Most of the time this works.

If that doesn't do it, calipers are usually pretty cheap once you get the core charge back.

EDIT: DUH. BLEEDERS. Welp, ignore this one.

3speedslow

I hate stuck seatposts !! In a fight with one now.

toytech

use a six point socket or box end wrench on it, and as others said soak it in rust penetrant.

Old Yeller

Add a little propane torch heat to the caliper near the bleeder

mrlassiter

I just wanted to say I can't say the thread title three times outloud(as written) real fast.

dedhed

Oxy-actelenye red hot, then six point ¼" drive socket or six point box wrench. The box wrench lets you see if it is twisting off or turning. Buy a new bleeder screw when you get it out and use anti-seize on the threads. The little rubber caps also keep moisture from getting in to rust them from both sides. I buy lifetime calipers now and just get them replaced free. Last ones on my plow truck were so rusted all the flats were gone and no wrench was going to fit.

thirdgenbird

I fixed that problem with these:

bikamper

I used a carbide dremel bit to get the broken easy-out out of the front caliper of my loathed 78 Malibu. Next step was 'Bleeder Valve Repair Kit' which did NOT include the proper tap drill, tap, or thread sealant/locker. Throw in a caliper rebuild kit as I'm this far into the job. Totaled up the cost of the dremel bit, repair kit, tap, tap drill, uberexpensive Loctite, and seal kit. The replacement caliper was $6 cheaper.

sailorbenjamin

Yeah. I was just changing the fluid anyway. There's no air in there so I'm just gonna drive around with a busted easy out in my caliper for a while. Next time I feel the urge (which might not be for a while) I'll replace the caliper. Till then, F it.