'84 Trek 610?
06-03-17, 08:15 PM
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You can get french blue model paint at a hobby shop; it's an almost perfect match.
06-03-17, 08:32 PM
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Great to know it found a good home.
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06-04-17, 06:17 AM
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06-04-17, 06:37 AM
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06-04-17, 06:44 AM
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Mum's the word!
06-04-17, 08:42 AM
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I found a 610 from 1984 that had been drewed and rattle caned. It was a mess and a regret. Maybe not now. It is in the project queue.
In the raw:
[IMG]
1983 Trek 610 60 cm (24"
, on Flickr[/IMG]
In the raw:
[IMG]
1983 Trek 610 60 cm (24", on Flickr[/IMG]
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06-04-17, 08:57 AM
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I found a 610 from 1984 that had been drewed and rattle caned. It was a mess and a regret. Maybe not now. It is in the project queue.
In the raw:
[IMG]1983 Trek 610 60 cm (24", on Flickr[/IMG]
In the raw:
[IMG]
1983 Trek 610 60 cm (24", on Flickr[/IMG]
06-04-17, 12:39 PM
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While I would like to build a fixie and see what that's all about (plus track stands look cool at stop lights) I promise not to make any permanent alterations. Any components removed will be bagged tagged and stored for future caretakers of old steel bikes.
And frankly this bike is appointed really well as is, I think my Miyata 310 might be a better fixie candidate. Again all Golden Arrow bits would be lovingly wrapped in gauze and unicorn fur and held in a climate controlled safe until being called upon for further service.
This trek is REALLY nice, and the 56/56cm top and seat tube is VERY comfortable. I'm a little surprised it doesn't have rack brazes on the seat stays. I'm going to use a handle bar bag and see how that works. I think I'd like to keep the weight down on this one.
OH! It came with cheap plastic pedals, who has a good idea for a replacement? Originally it had shimano 600 aero pedals with clips and straps, and I've got this on another bike and don't care for them. Too small, not enough width to support my foot.
06-04-17, 12:43 PM
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Unless they cut off the canti posts thats a pre-'84 model. I've got an '84 610 (in Sherwood Green
) and that year had cantilevered brakes.
1982 was the last year for center pulls.
https://2.bp.blogspot.com/_whtVpXkKwl...0-h/img023.jpg
) and that year had cantilevered brakes. 1982 was the last year for center pulls.
https://2.bp.blogspot.com/_whtVpXkKwl...0-h/img023.jpg
I found a 610 from 1984 that had been drewed and rattle caned. It was a mess and a regret. Maybe not now. It is in the project queue.
In the raw:
[IMG]1983 Trek 610 60 cm (24", on Flickr[/IMG]
In the raw:
[IMG]
1983 Trek 610 60 cm (24", on Flickr[/IMG]Last edited by Chr0m0ly; 06-04-17 at 01:10 PM.
06-04-17, 04:50 PM
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Unless they cut off the canti posts thats a pre-'84 model. I've got an '84 610 (in Sherwood Green) and that year had cantilevered brakes.
1982 was the last year for center pulls.
img023.jpg (image)
) and that year had cantilevered brakes. 1982 was the last year for center pulls.
img023.jpg (image)
06-04-17, 05:10 PM
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06-05-17, 01:04 PM
#38
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THANK YOU.
Also: Rode it to work today, 8 miles, and it is awesome. Fast and comfortable, even with the plastic cheapo pedals. I know I'm not supposed to feel a difference but it has a sprung feel to it. Would 28mm tires be that much more compliant than 25mm? I have 25s on my other steel bikes. I need to swap wheel sets and compare.
Also: Rode it to work today, 8 miles, and it is awesome. Fast and comfortable, even with the plastic cheapo pedals. I know I'm not supposed to feel a difference but it has a sprung feel to it. Would 28mm tires be that much more compliant than 25mm? I have 25s on my other steel bikes. I need to swap wheel sets and compare.
06-05-17, 01:07 PM
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THANK YOU.
Also: Rode it to work today, 8 miles, and it is awesome. Fast and comfortable, even with the plastic cheapo pedals. I know I'm not supposed to feel a difference but it has a sprung feel to it. Would 28mm tires be that much more compliant than 25mm? I have 25s on my other steel bikes. I need to swap wheel sets and compare.
Also: Rode it to work today, 8 miles, and it is awesome. Fast and comfortable, even with the plastic cheapo pedals. I know I'm not supposed to feel a difference but it has a sprung feel to it. Would 28mm tires be that much more compliant than 25mm? I have 25s on my other steel bikes. I need to swap wheel sets and compare.
10-09-17, 06:12 PM
#40
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Update:
The Trek broke a chain, and I couldn't figure out what happened. I put a new chain on and it would drop gears when leaving lights. Standing would just over power the drive system. I ended up putting it away for a bit and riding a Miyata 710 as my commuter. I have two, this one is "too big" at 60cm but has a 56.5cm top tube, so it's a nice French fit. Tall bars, almost a hybrid feel but a vintage road bike. It also fits 28cm tires, so pretty cushy.
Well, I finally took that Shimano 600 RD apart and the jockey arm spring had been installed backwards. The short tab of the spring faces the chain, the long tab faces out, and this was reversed. So once it was back together it shifted like aeam.
I put some Vittoria Zafiros in 32mm on there and WOW. I'm stunned. Not only was this one of my faster commutes but I felt really fresh when I got to work. I think it's a little bit the 531 tubes, but more so the geometry. The combo is just really fast, tracks without effort, and soaks up the road chatter. The Miyata is likely a better climber and sprinter, but for flatland rides on marginal road surfaces this Trek just flies!
The Trek broke a chain, and I couldn't figure out what happened. I put a new chain on and it would drop gears when leaving lights. Standing would just over power the drive system. I ended up putting it away for a bit and riding a Miyata 710 as my commuter. I have two, this one is "too big" at 60cm but has a 56.5cm top tube, so it's a nice French fit. Tall bars, almost a hybrid feel but a vintage road bike. It also fits 28cm tires, so pretty cushy.
Well, I finally took that Shimano 600 RD apart and the jockey arm spring had been installed backwards. The short tab of the spring faces the chain, the long tab faces out, and this was reversed. So once it was back together it shifted like aeam.
I put some Vittoria Zafiros in 32mm on there and WOW. I'm stunned. Not only was this one of my faster commutes but I felt really fresh when I got to work. I think it's a little bit the 531 tubes, but more so the geometry. The combo is just really fast, tracks without effort, and soaks up the road chatter. The Miyata is likely a better climber and sprinter, but for flatland rides on marginal road surfaces this Trek just flies!
10-10-17, 07:52 AM
#41
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I finally think Trek is clear that the fork blades and stays are not 531, and that they are CrMo.
I think if they said it was CrMo, it is CrMo, and it is probaby whatever CrMo they could get that meets the specifications on the day of purchase. It could have been 501 or it could have been something else. But if it met the specification, the rest did not matter, except price and delivery.
I think if they said it was CrMo, it is CrMo, and it is probaby whatever CrMo they could get that meets the specifications on the day of purchase. It could have been 501 or it could have been something else. But if it met the specification, the rest did not matter, except price and delivery.
If it's 531CS it's specified on the tag that it's "Reynolds Tubes, Forks & Stays"
IMO- the Trek catalogs aren't exactly clear WRT 531CS. The catalog will say the fork and stays are 531CS- Which would lead one to believe that the fork and stays are 531... not taking into account that the fork and stays are CrMo with 531 CS.
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10-10-17, 04:10 PM
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A 600 series Trek is going to have a 531 main triangle. The 531 label will say "butted frame tubes." The stays and fork will be CrMo or some Mn alloy (Ishiwata Manga Lite or Tange Mangalloy).
If it's 531CS it's specified on the tag that it's "Reynolds Tubes, Forks & Stays"
IMO- the Trek catalogs aren't exactly clear WRT 531CS. The catalog will say the fork and stays are 531CS- Which would lead one to believe that the fork and stays are 531... not taking into account that the fork and stays are CrMo with 531 CS.
If it's 531CS it's specified on the tag that it's "Reynolds Tubes, Forks & Stays"
IMO- the Trek catalogs aren't exactly clear WRT 531CS. The catalog will say the fork and stays are 531CS- Which would lead one to believe that the fork and stays are 531... not taking into account that the fork and stays are CrMo with 531 CS.
10-11-17, 04:04 PM
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You are free to assume the CrMo is 501, but unless Trek said it was I think there are a lot of other possible truths.
But it's NOT particularly clear on the tag or in the catalog that the fork and stays are Reynolds CrMo and not 531- the catalog says "531CS" which would lead the average person to say the fork and stays are 531.
For other 600 series bikes, the tag only says 531 'butted frame tubes' stating nothing about the fork and stays. In those instances, the manufacturer of the fork and stays is mentioned in the catalog.
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10-11-17, 09:05 PM
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I have an 84 610. I bioought the rusted frame off Craigslist to restore and sell. I had it sand blasted, I painted it red , re decaled it and built it up with 700 wheels and Shimano 600 components. I started riding it and it had become my favorite bike. It rides great. Go for it!
10-12-17, 12:56 PM
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My 610, post 31, was rattle canned and didn't have any original decal on the frame. I always wondered what it is. I still am not sure but clearly 531 main tubes. This is the steerer and i assume the rest of the fork was also Tange. My understanding was that the rear triangle and fork were purchased as sub assemblies, joined to the frame in the US.
[IMG]
021_Trek Fork Steerer_Tang, on Flickr[/IMG]
The frame in the raw can be viewed by following the link of the pic.
[IMG]
P1000892 on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]
021_Trek Fork Steerer_Tang, on Flickr[/IMG]The frame in the raw can be viewed by following the link of the pic.
[IMG]
P1000892 on Flickr[/IMG]
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10-12-17, 01:13 PM
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I thought that crown looked familiar. I looked it up on vintage-trek and it is the same one on my 84 500. Same crown but the 610 got the 531CS blades and the 500 (and 510) got Tange Mangaloy.
Edit to add-I think they look great stripped bare to the metal. Too bad they don't stay like that.
Edit to add-I think they look great stripped bare to the metal. Too bad they don't stay like that.
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Last edited by beicster; 10-12-17 at 01:19 PM.
07-29-18, 06:38 PM
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Update!
I was just freshening up this mile eater and I figured I’d post up what’s new. Namely that rear derailleur kept giving me trouble. I had it apart and cleaned and adjusted and back on the bike several times and I couldn’t get it to shift properly!
went on line and ordered a take off for short money, and then found a Shimano 600 R.D. from ‘88 in my parts bin. Thats what I get for not checking my “inventory” first I guess.
I cleaned it up, and got it on and we are now officially cookin’.
So the current set up is fairly original-ish but for the Shimmy 600 hubs and 700c 32mm Vittorio tires, which the original 600 calipers easily reach. And that one generation newer 600 R.D.
Shoot that bike even has black cotton bar tape on there!
And I did switch to the original 600 series aero pedals. I’ve gotten used to them.
So I’m taking her out on the commute tomorrow and we’ll see what’s what.
I was just freshening up this mile eater and I figured I’d post up what’s new. Namely that rear derailleur kept giving me trouble. I had it apart and cleaned and adjusted and back on the bike several times and I couldn’t get it to shift properly!
went on line and ordered a take off for short money, and then found a Shimano 600 R.D. from ‘88 in my parts bin. Thats what I get for not checking my “inventory” first I guess.
I cleaned it up, and got it on and we are now officially cookin’.
So the current set up is fairly original-ish but for the Shimmy 600 hubs and 700c 32mm Vittorio tires, which the original 600 calipers easily reach. And that one generation newer 600 R.D.
Shoot that bike even has black cotton bar tape on there!
And I did switch to the original 600 series aero pedals. I’ve gotten used to them.
So I’m taking her out on the commute tomorrow and we’ll see what’s what.
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