Bike Recommendations wanted
#1
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Bike Recommendations wanted
I got back into biking almost a year ago and wanted to commute to work. Not knowing if I would stick with it, I did not want to make a large investment, so I bought an old 90's model HardRock and put about $300 in it to upgrade to 9 speed, Deore shifters and derailleurs, etc. My commute is about 12 miles each way, and in that time I've come to realize that I would prefer the HardRock for shorter commutes, grocery runs, etc. So I've turned my attention to cyclocross bikes. I'm 5'7" with a 30" inseam and I've found that most 700C bikes I've ridden tend to have toe overlap with the front tire and are not as agile in making quick turns, etc. In short, I've come to believe that smaller bikes need smaller wheels. In addition to the agility and toe overlap issues, most of the smaller frame sizes which have 700c wheels tend to have angled top tubes, which (in my experience) gives a less responsive feel in turns, etc (and they just look ugly to me).
So I stopped at an LBS and rode a Salsa Vaya 3, 52cm frame size with 26 inch wheels. The geometry felt very good and I really felt like it was a bike I could spend all day on. What I valued most about the bike was the fit, level top tube, good standover clearance.
The drawbacks: 1. The color. Red is ok, but gold hubs and gold quick release skewers? Do they want me to hang a Christmas tree air freshener from the handlebars? Gold seat and handlebar tape? ughhh 2. Disc brakes. Not saying they are bad, but I'm fine with cantilevers for ease of repair, etc, even if the rims may wear out faster. Replacement wheels would also be cheaper if needed. The retail on the Vaya 3 is $1350, which is at the high end of what I want to spend (I'd really rather build up a comparable bike), so I would be more picky on the color if I'm spending that kinda money. And I'm paying for some features that are not valuable to me (disc brakes).
The Vaya 2 has a nice white / blue color scheme (although blue hubs are not necessary), but it comes with brifters and different components and runs the price up to $1850.
So I started looking at options and the first thing I found is that I could not find another cyclocross bike with 26 inch wheels, it seems they don't exist. Then I thought about the Long Haul Trucker, knowing Surly and Salsa have the same parent company, maybe the frames were similar. LHT offers 26 inch wheels in almost all their frame sizes, however looking at two geometric dimensions that are most important to me: standover height and effective top tube, I would have to drop down to a 46cm frame size in LHT to get the same (within half an inch) effective top tube and standover as the 52 cm Vaya (which leads to another discussion altogether, how I think the seat tube measurement that is given as 'frame size' is probably the least important measurement - it's like buying pants based on inseam and not waist size).
So, all of that being said, I was wondering if anyone had advice on other bikes I might look at, even if they are older models I could troll craigslist for and build up. I've seen where some have said to just pop drop bars on your mountain bike, but I would like to get a little lighter bike (not worried about the weight for riding, but I do carry it up stairs to get it into the house). I'm open to a 'touring' style, it does not have to be 'cross'.
The only other option I can think of, which definitely would not be cheaper, would be to have a custom frame built to the Vaya geometry.
Thanks in advance.
Jon
So I stopped at an LBS and rode a Salsa Vaya 3, 52cm frame size with 26 inch wheels. The geometry felt very good and I really felt like it was a bike I could spend all day on. What I valued most about the bike was the fit, level top tube, good standover clearance.
The drawbacks: 1. The color. Red is ok, but gold hubs and gold quick release skewers? Do they want me to hang a Christmas tree air freshener from the handlebars? Gold seat and handlebar tape? ughhh 2. Disc brakes. Not saying they are bad, but I'm fine with cantilevers for ease of repair, etc, even if the rims may wear out faster. Replacement wheels would also be cheaper if needed. The retail on the Vaya 3 is $1350, which is at the high end of what I want to spend (I'd really rather build up a comparable bike), so I would be more picky on the color if I'm spending that kinda money. And I'm paying for some features that are not valuable to me (disc brakes).
The Vaya 2 has a nice white / blue color scheme (although blue hubs are not necessary), but it comes with brifters and different components and runs the price up to $1850.
So I started looking at options and the first thing I found is that I could not find another cyclocross bike with 26 inch wheels, it seems they don't exist. Then I thought about the Long Haul Trucker, knowing Surly and Salsa have the same parent company, maybe the frames were similar. LHT offers 26 inch wheels in almost all their frame sizes, however looking at two geometric dimensions that are most important to me: standover height and effective top tube, I would have to drop down to a 46cm frame size in LHT to get the same (within half an inch) effective top tube and standover as the 52 cm Vaya (which leads to another discussion altogether, how I think the seat tube measurement that is given as 'frame size' is probably the least important measurement - it's like buying pants based on inseam and not waist size).
So, all of that being said, I was wondering if anyone had advice on other bikes I might look at, even if they are older models I could troll craigslist for and build up. I've seen where some have said to just pop drop bars on your mountain bike, but I would like to get a little lighter bike (not worried about the weight for riding, but I do carry it up stairs to get it into the house). I'm open to a 'touring' style, it does not have to be 'cross'.
The only other option I can think of, which definitely would not be cheaper, would be to have a custom frame built to the Vaya geometry.
Thanks in advance.
Jon
#2
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So, you're committed to a cyclocross bike - a touring bike would be fine? It was a bit confusing because you seemed to like the Vaya, but as far as I know, that's a touring oriented bike as opposed to a cyclocross.
What about a Surly Cross Check? Also, check out Kona bikes - their Jake series and the Rove (although the tires might be larger than you want).
What about a Surly Cross Check? Also, check out Kona bikes - their Jake series and the Rove (although the tires might be larger than you want).
#3
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I'm not so much committed to cyclocross as to the fit of the bike, which from what I've gathered, seems highly dependent upon 26 inch wheels. It appears they just cannot engineer a good fit for shorter people with 700c wheels.
I looked at the Cross Check and they don't offer 26 inch wheel sizes. I even started a spreadsheet with bike geometries, tabulating standover height, effective top tube, and 'frame size'. With 700c wheels, you have to drop down to a very low 'frame size' (seat tube length) to get a comparable effective top tube and standover that the Vaya 2 offers.
I looked at the Cross Check and they don't offer 26 inch wheel sizes. I even started a spreadsheet with bike geometries, tabulating standover height, effective top tube, and 'frame size'. With 700c wheels, you have to drop down to a very low 'frame size' (seat tube length) to get a comparable effective top tube and standover that the Vaya 2 offers.
#4
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I also happen to also be 5' 7", but my legs are a little shorter than yours.
#5
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those are two very nice bikes, well done.
How do you like the bar end shifters? With my mtn bike, both shifters are right there and I frequently 'double shift'. I didn't have any issues when I test drove the Vaya, but shifting will definitely be slower. It's not a deal killer in my mind, just something I would have to adjust to.
Thanks again
How do you like the bar end shifters? With my mtn bike, both shifters are right there and I frequently 'double shift'. I didn't have any issues when I test drove the Vaya, but shifting will definitely be slower. It's not a deal killer in my mind, just something I would have to adjust to.
Thanks again
#6
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I have no trouble with the bar end shifters. They are not quite as quick as the brifters on my road bike, but more conveniently placed than downtube shifters. They require a little forethought to remember to downshift prior to a stop, but it has become instinctive for me now. I have Suntour barcons on both bikes. They can easily be found in the $30 range on Ebay, sometimes less if you are patient. Since they are ratcheting friction shifters, they work with everything and I can go across as many gears in a motion as I need to.
I did just swap out my rear cassette tonight. I initially put a 9 speed with a 32 tooth big cog on it. But with the MTB style crankset, I have found the bike to be geared way too low. Riding on the big ring caused a lot of shifting problems due to crosschaining. I just put on a 12-26 tooth 8 speed. Even on the workstand, I can tell it is shifting much more cleanly.
I did just swap out my rear cassette tonight. I initially put a 9 speed with a 32 tooth big cog on it. But with the MTB style crankset, I have found the bike to be geared way too low. Riding on the big ring caused a lot of shifting problems due to crosschaining. I just put on a 12-26 tooth 8 speed. Even on the workstand, I can tell it is shifting much more cleanly.
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The Soma San Marcos seems to most fit your needs. It uses 650b wheels which are sized right between 700c and 26". Rawland also makes some 650b bikes, but they have a more unusual geometry being low-trail (that is appealing to me at least). Velouria from Lovely Bicycle liked the one that she reviewed so much that she bought one for herself and having no toe-overlap is a big sticking point for her. There are other 650b bikes out there, but most (besides Rivendell's) are low-trail geometry. They should be able to take wide tires (and there are some great options) so you'll get the versatility of a cross bike for some off path riding. If you are a women, you could also check out some of Terry Bicycles offerings, but they will be more like a traditional road bike in geometry/tire clearances.
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I'll give a +1 for finding a bike on cl with the frame geometry you want and then building it up...At some point in cycling a lot of people come to really know what they like and don't like and its hard to find it all on any particular bike...
AND +1 on not mixing red and gold! I have red on my mtb and I had to switch out the gold rings on the locking grips! That combo annoyed me constantly...
AND +1 on not mixing red and gold! I have red on my mtb and I had to switch out the gold rings on the locking grips! That combo annoyed me constantly...
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Check out Handsome Cycles' "XOXO" bike. It's a replica of the old Bridgestone XO-1. 73 degree head tube with 42.5 cm chainstays should result in a pretty lively ride. It's made of Reynolds cro-moly and has 26" wheels. The frame is a bit pricey due to the Reynolds steel but it sounds like you already have a drivetrain you could swap over.
https://www.handsomecycles.com/bicycles/xoxo_classic.php
https://www.handsomecycles.com/bicycles/xoxo_classic.php
#10
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I'm curious to know why you feel the toe overlap is an issue? I'm also 5'7" and have a 30" inseam and all of my bikes have it to some degree... unless I'm testing a bike out in a parking lot at speeds which are unrealistic in terms of actually riding, then it never even happens. If you're OK with cantis are you OK with calipers too? If so, maybe a road bike with relaxed geometry and room for fenders would work too.
#11
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Hi,
I think I've decided to switch my mtn bike to drop handlebars. It looks like your has v-brakes, is that right? Mine are cantilevers and the front brake cable goes through the middle of the handlebar stem. I'm wondering how I would modify it to fit with aero brake levers. Would I need to get some type of cable stop on the head tube?
I think I've decided to switch my mtn bike to drop handlebars. It looks like your has v-brakes, is that right? Mine are cantilevers and the front brake cable goes through the middle of the handlebar stem. I'm wondering how I would modify it to fit with aero brake levers. Would I need to get some type of cable stop on the head tube?