BirdsBikeBinocs

I have a Schwinn GTX-3 that has developed some play in the rear wheel. The freewheel was replaced about 100 miles ago. I suspect it's the hub. Not a high quality bike but has ran very well for me.

Can someone confirm that it is the hub.(I'm quite certain but don't know for sure) Quick release skewer.

My question also is .... Can someone recommend a new wheelset for the bike.?? I'd like to buy a new wheelset with the 7 speed cassette. The bike has a freewheel with loose ball bearings. Can I do that.?? I'd like to up the quality by one jump, a little better than the stock wheels, which have been very good for about 1500 miles. It's my trail and grass bike. Not much road. A wheelset that would fit a 40 to 50c tire.
The bike likes the camera so I'll add a picture....

Suggestions please....
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AnkleWork

You posted in the correct forum.

Gresp15C

If it was me, I'd try to adjust the play out of the bearings. It's a tiny bit tricky if you don't have a tool to remove the freewheel, but not insurmountable. It's important to get the parts on the drive side of the axle (cone, spacers, etc.) good and tight to reduce the chance of axle breakage, and then do all of the adjustment from the non drive side.

dsbrantjr

This may already have occurred (freewheels are more prone to axle breakage than freehub designs) and should be checked out.

JohnDThompson 

First, is it "play," or is it a "wobble?" The thread title suggests one, but the text suggests the other.

"Play" can be detected when the wheel is stationary. If the rim can be moved sideways while it is securely clamped in the frame, that would suggest that the hub cones are loose. This can be a quick fix if you have the tools: cone wrenches and regular wrenches. Otherwise, a bike shop should be able to adjust it quickly.

Another possibility would be a broken axle, as mentioned above. With the wheel out of the bike, grasp both ends of the axle and turn it. If the axle is broken, it should be obvious.

"Wobble" could mean a couple things. If the wheel is spinning and the freewheel coasting, you may see the freewheel cogs wobble slightly. This is not generally a concern and results from the freewheel threads not being perfectly coaxial with the hub axis.

Another possibility for "wobble" would be an out-of-true rim. As the wheel spins,does the rim get closer and further away from the brake pads? Unless the rim actually drags on the brake pads, it's not a big concern. Usually this can be adjusted out by tweaking the spoke tension. Probably a job for the bike shop, unless you're feeling adventurous.

BirdsBikeBinocs

JohnD .... Just as you said. Play is static. Wobble is active. Now, can you direct me to a new sew set of wheels that come with the 7-speed cassette attached.?? I don't have tools to mess with the freewheel. Took it apart once and won't do that again. Its the one area on a bike I'll never deal with again. 1500 miles on the bike. I want new wheels.

Can anyone point me to a wheelset for less than $200 that is "ready for use.".??

dsbrantjr

The internet shopping service is closed on Sundays, but it is unlikely that you will find a wheel or wheelset with the cassette already mounted, there are too many cassette choices for this to be practical.

WizardOfBoz

You want a simple drop-in replacement. To paraphrase Einstein, you can get simple, but you can't get too simple. Your note seems like you're so fed up with this wheel (and with your adventure in freewheel innard exploration) that you're not willing to listen to any other counsel except "replace". It would be of interest to those of us who'd like to help if you'd answer a few questions if you're willing.

1) Can you wiggle the wheel? That is, is there play? (Play could be loose bearing adjustment, worn bearings, or broken axle.)
2) With the wheel out of the bike, if you rotate the axle does is spin concentrically, or does it wobble (bent axle). You can check this if you can put your wheel (without the Q/R) in your bike frame (or in a truing stand) and then rotate the axle. If the axle is bent the rim will move from side to side. This is a more sensitive test than just rotating the axle and trying to visually see wobble.
3) Do you have a freewheel, or a freehub/cassette currently? If you have a freewheel, did you really disassemble the freewheel, or did you merely take the freewheel off? As an aside, disassembling freewheels is usually viewed as the domain of specialists. (A forum member, "Pastor Bob in NH", www.FreeWheelSpa.com, does this, for example). If you really took a freewheel apart and tried to reassemble it, no wonder you're frustrated. If you got it back together so it works, I salute you. If you have a freehub/cassette, disassembling the freehub is a little more straightforward usually. But I've been wrenching on bikes for about 50 years, I grew up working in a machine shop, I worked in a Schwinn bike shop during school part time for about 7 years, and I have four degrees in Engineering, and I'm a registered Professional Engineer (Mechanical), and I'd think twice about opening up a freewheel. I guess Pastor Bob has more faith than I do!

If you have the patience and are willing to diagnose the issue, you may be able to fix it for nearly zero cost or low cost (adjustment is free, a new axle cost about 10-20 bucks, new bearing 15-30 IIRC). Or you could have a local bike shop fix it for a nominal fee.

One aspect of freewheel design is that it's more susceptible to bend/broken axles. So a freehub design will be more durable, all things being equal. May be advisable if this is your "Grass and Trail" bike. If you want to upgrade, or if you are so fed up that you are beyond being willing to fix the thing then: If you want to upgrade your wheel with a freehub you have a few choices. To stay with 7 speeds, probably simplest to buy with a 6/7 speed freehub, along with the freehub tool that fits that hub. Buy a 7 speed cassette. Install the cassette and tighten (best if you can torque it) the cassette nut on the freehub. A slightly (minimally) more complex option allows for a larger number of speeds. You can buy a wheel with a 8/9 speed freehub. Then, in addition to the freehub tool and 7 speed cassette, you'll need a spacer.

After you replace the wheel, you'll need to have the rear derailleur adjusted so that you can easily shift over all the cogs, without shifting the chain into the spokes.

I don't mean to sound snooty, but be aware that Schwinns sold at Dicks Sporting Goods for 350 bucks can have some serious design/manufacturing issues and may not have been set up as well as a real bike shop sets up a bike at a higher price point. If you're happy with the rest of the bike, great. Be aware, though, that after replacing the wheel you may end up being frustrated as other issues pop up (or parts pop off). On the other hand, the bike with a new wheel may run great. I hope so. And, in fact, your wheel may be the weakest link in the bike's design and replacing it might make your cycling much more enjoyable.

Your frustration is obvious. We've all been there - good luck.

BirdsBikeBinocs

Yes. I can wiggle the wheel. And, when I wiggle the cassette, the whole wheel wiggles. As stated the wheel has a Freewheel that was replaced like 150 miles ago. Maybe less. You are correct in assuming that I have taken a freewheel apart. I gathered all the parts and took them to the LBS to put back together. I was in over my head. Not going there again.

And as I said, its a low price bike with 1500 miles on it. I've got my monies worth. Now, I'd like to upgrade the wheels because the rear wheel has issues. If this doesn't make sense to you, it doesn't have to. It's my way of thinking.

I'll take the wheel up to the LBS in the morning. They'll tell me whats going. And whats available for new wheels.

dedhed

Nobody can suggest anything without more info.

26"?, 700? 650B?
130mm, 135mm OLD?
36 hole, 28 hole?
Black again or silver? Does it matter if the price is right?

WizardOfBoz

dedhed's right. The specsheet I saw had the stock tires being 700c x 38. The picture shows a 36 spoke rear wheel, if I' counted correctly. The one uncertainty is the axle length - should be either 130mm width between the dropouts, or 135mm. I suspect that this will be 130mm, but the OP should measure.

BirdsBikeBinocs

Thanks DedHed and Wizard.... 700 x 27.5 wheel size. I don't have a caliper to measure. I'm running 41c tires right now. I want to go to a 45 or 50c tire as previously mentioned.

I'm headed to the bike shop tomorrow. They'll have some answers for me. I would like a website recommendation to shop for something in the ballpark as far as pricing goes. I'll spend up to $200.

WizardOfBoz

Assuming the bike frame is set up properly for the bike wheel you have, just use a ruler to measure the inside distance between the rear dropout faices. Will be 126, 130, or 135mm. You'll want a wheel with the same locknut to locknut distance (overall, the axle will be about 11mm longer).

Or, remove the springs from your QR skewer. Stick the skewer in and use a Sharpie(R) to mark the axle length. The wheel locknut-to-locknut distance will be about 11mm less.

Possibly a candidate (will need a spacer) you could try the wheel below, but I think that this has a 19mm rim internal width. You state that your wheel has a rim width of 27.5, but I think that's external. If so, you have a 23 or 24 internal width. A 50mm tire is a little bit big for that. You probably want an internal rim width of about 28nn for a 50mm tire.

https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Master-Hybrid-Comfort-Double/dp/B00VIVMPJE/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=WheelMaster+29er+Alloy+rim&qid=1566155490&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-4#customerReviews

or

https://www.bikewagon.com/part/wheel...ore-rear-wheel

dedhed

https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-adv...to-choose.html

BirdsBikeBinocs

Op here reporting back. I took your advice here and and I inspected the axle which was not broken. On the non-drive-side I was able to tighten the cone(i think). Any play that was in the wheel is not present now. But, I do have a very minor "grind" as I freely spin the wheel, that I can feel more than hear. The bike is rideable. Its rolling quite nicely.

After reading up on this I am at that very delicate centering point, the sweet spot that has all the bearings rolling nicely. Though it could be that there is wear on the ball bearings. Question....

If the cones and bearings are shot, can they be rebuilt or is a new wheel in order.??

Gresp15C

Indeed. Checking out my son's bike under similar circumstances revealed a bent rear axle.

BirdsBikeBinocs

Thanks. Sounds like a more thorough inspection is needed. Will do. Could be bent though its running at 95%. I can only feel the grind when I spin the wheel and hold onto the seat post.