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Shimano 6800. Time for new cable/housing?

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Shimano 6800. Time for new cable/housing?

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Old 07-11-16, 09:48 PM
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BarryVee
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Shimano 6800. Time for new cable/housing?

Bike is an Emonda SL6 with 4000 miles on original Jagwire Pro LEX-SL shift cables/housings. The original cassette/chain/rear derailleur were changed early on for 6800 11-32 cassette, chain & a GS derailleur. Derailleur parallelogram pivot points get lightly oiled once or twice every 1000 miles.

On the stand, shifts from 28-32 result in a slight noise from upper cog/cassette area that can be silenced by slightly pressing the derailleur in to the L stop, upon releasing pressure L screw remains on the stop and the drive is quiet. On the stand or on the road a two gear shift usually cures the noise also. Seems there is excess friction somewhere?

Does it make sense to partially withdraw and oil cables running in a teflon liner?

Am thinking the bike may need a new shift cable and/or housing, (or just adjustment)? Should the bottom bracket cable guide be replaced with cables? And ought brake cables and or housings be replaced at this time too?

Any hints on threading new cable through the frame will be appreciated along with housing & cable recommendations!
Thankyou
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Old 07-11-16, 09:53 PM
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andr0id
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Trek put Jagwire instead of a 6800 cable set on this?

Change your RD cable before it breaks. The front is used less and will probably last the rest of the season.
Brake cables are fine, change them once a year to be prudent.

I think SP41 and the polymer 11 speed cables work better than stainless, but some people think stainless is good enough.

The plastic BB guide only needs to be replaced if it starts to bind the cable. I find the the Shimano guide lasts a few years. They're very cheap, so no reason to be chintzy.
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Old 07-11-16, 10:18 PM
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2lo8
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The issue with the polymer coated cables is the coating can fray and clog things up. SP41 isn't really all that different from Jagwire lined housings. Usually shifters come with inners pre-installed though.

If you can get a length of cable liner, just snip the end of the old cable, slide the liner on through the frame, and tape the ends, then pull out the cable. Run the cable back through the liner.
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Old 07-11-16, 10:29 PM
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AnkleWork
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There's no reason to turn the barrel adjuster a quarter turn.
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Old 07-12-16, 02:39 AM
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If they are not frayed /damaged or kinked anywhere then they dont need replacing.

Check the b-screw adjustment for the noise.

Try some spray lubricant on the cable entry/exit/pivot points.
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Old 07-12-16, 08:45 PM
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Thanks guys. B screw adjustment seems fine to me. I'll try adjusting cable one more time, rode Del Puerto Canyon today, two gear downshifts didn't always quiet things. Either way think I'll hit up my LBS for a new rear derailleur cable and some liner and get that changed out before it breaks. (By the way, gobbler lunch sandwich at the Junction on Mines Rd. was great)!

Yes this bike was delivered with Jagwire not Shimano from North Rim in Chico, Ca. Great store & service, no complaints here!
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Old 07-13-16, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 2lo8
The issue with the polymer coated cables is the coating can fray and clog things up. SP41 isn't really all that different from Jagwire lined housings. Usually shifters come with inners pre-installed though.
I've read about the previous gen PTFE cables losing their magic but I haven't heard about the newer polymer cables fraying, sounds like a bummer.
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Old 06-21-19, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by BarryVee
Bike is an Emonda SL6 with 4000 miles on original Jagwire Pro LEX-SL shift cables/housings. The original cassette/chain/rear derailleur were changed early on for 6800 11-32 cassette, chain & a GS derailleur. Derailleur parallelogram pivot points get lightly oiled once or twice every 1000 miles.

On the stand, shifts from 28-32 result in a slight noise from upper cog/cassette area that can be silenced by slightly pressing the derailleur in to the L stop, upon releasing pressure L screw remains on the stop and the drive is quiet. On the stand or on the road a two gear shift usually cures the noise also. Seems there is excess friction somewhere?

Does it make sense to partially withdraw and oil cables running in a teflon liner?

Am thinking the bike may need a new shift cable and/or housing, (or just adjustment)? Should the bottom bracket cable guide be replaced with cables? And ought brake cables and or housings be replaced at this time too?

Any hints on threading new cable through the frame will be appreciated along with housing & cable recommendations!
Thankyou

Hello,

Do you remember if your Emonda had the cable guides inside the frame or if you had to use different methods to replace the cable? I’m planning to do it and I saw some white plastic guide at the frame cable “entrance” but I’m not sure if that continues through the inside of the frame or not.

Thanks.
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Old 06-22-19, 07:51 PM
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No guides. Used cable housing liner.

Originally Posted by Chu
Hello,

Do you remember if your Emonda had the cable guides inside the frame or if you had to use different methods to replace the cable? I’m planning to do it and I saw some white plastic guide at the frame cable “entrance” but I’m not sure if that continues through the inside of the frame or not.

Thanks.
LBS gave me enough cable housing liner to slide through the frame over existing cable prior to removal. Simply pushed new cable through the liner after pulling the old one out. I did not see any internal guides or liner on my bike.

Yes I have replaced BB cable guides due to wear. IIRC LBS sold them for about $5.
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