Girl crush! Need to find Rim
04-29-20, 12:48 PM
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Girl crush! Need to find Rim
What size rim should I buy for my beach cruiser? The tires are 26 x 3.0 The bike is an Aerovane single speed. My friend ran over the rear tire. :-(
Thanks!
Stephanie
Thanks!
Stephanie
04-29-20, 03:05 PM
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The pun is funny.
Are you going to try to relace and true the wheel yourself? You may want to have your local bike store do this if you've not done it before. If that's the path, ask if perhaps a new wheel would be cheaper. The thing is, hand-lacing a new rim in requires some expertise and patience and time. That means that there's a significant cost involved. It is almost certainly worth the cost to relace a new rim into a $1000 wheel. The labor cost for replacing the rim might be worthmore than the original wheel in your bike (which, if my research is correct, retailed for about $140 for the whole bike). That is, for a similar amount of money to buying a rim and having it relaced, you might buy a wheel that's much better than what you had.
If you are a bit more adventurous and are confident behind a wrench and a tire iron, here's some points to consider:
1) The spoke length was selected to fit your hub and rim together. So its ideal if you can get an exact replacement.
2) The Schwinns sold at Walmart typically don't have brand-name, standard parts that would allow you to order a direct replacement
3) So... you have to do some measurements, research options, and find a rim that has the same:
Tire Size (nominally 26", more formally known by a specification called ETRTO as bead seat diameter - BSD, which is 571mm I think)
Rim width (you can measure both the width of the outside of the rim, and the inside, but the inside of the rim should be about 35mm for your 3 inch tire)
Effective rim diameter - this is the diameter of the circle that would just fit under the spoke heads, and it's used to size spokes. If you can find an exact match you can save buying new spokes
Number of spokes in the hub and rim. Should be the same!
4) You have a painted rim. Here's something to check: use a magnet to see if the bent rim is steel. Steel's fine for some stuff, but not for today's wheel rims. Make sure you get an alloy rim.
Your impulse to save the hub is a good one, but again, it may be cheaper if you buy a new wheel. You may even be able to get a better wheel for not much more than the rim and labor to replace it.
Are you going to try to relace and true the wheel yourself? You may want to have your local bike store do this if you've not done it before. If that's the path, ask if perhaps a new wheel would be cheaper. The thing is, hand-lacing a new rim in requires some expertise and patience and time. That means that there's a significant cost involved. It is almost certainly worth the cost to relace a new rim into a $1000 wheel. The labor cost for replacing the rim might be worthmore than the original wheel in your bike (which, if my research is correct, retailed for about $140 for the whole bike). That is, for a similar amount of money to buying a rim and having it relaced, you might buy a wheel that's much better than what you had.
If you are a bit more adventurous and are confident behind a wrench and a tire iron, here's some points to consider:
1) The spoke length was selected to fit your hub and rim together. So its ideal if you can get an exact replacement.
2) The Schwinns sold at Walmart typically don't have brand-name, standard parts that would allow you to order a direct replacement
3) So... you have to do some measurements, research options, and find a rim that has the same:
Tire Size (nominally 26", more formally known by a specification called ETRTO as bead seat diameter - BSD, which is 571mm I think)
Rim width (you can measure both the width of the outside of the rim, and the inside, but the inside of the rim should be about 35mm for your 3 inch tire)
Effective rim diameter - this is the diameter of the circle that would just fit under the spoke heads, and it's used to size spokes. If you can find an exact match you can save buying new spokes
Number of spokes in the hub and rim. Should be the same!
4) You have a painted rim. Here's something to check: use a magnet to see if the bent rim is steel. Steel's fine for some stuff, but not for today's wheel rims. Make sure you get an alloy rim.
Your impulse to save the hub is a good one, but again, it may be cheaper if you buy a new wheel. You may even be able to get a better wheel for not much more than the rim and labor to replace it.
Last edited by WizardOfBoz; 04-30-20 at 07:59 AM.
04-30-20, 07:58 AM
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Don't understand the intervening post. I think we were pointing the OP in the same direction. I suggested that a new wheel is likely cheaper than replacing a new rim. The wheel suggested in post 3 would be fine. That's option #1 and the recommended option.
But I tried to reply to the OPs question, without being condescending. I suggested that the OP could take her wheel to the LBS they would be able to find a rim (30-60 bucks) and possibly new spokes if the ERD didn't match(another $10) and then relace and retrue ($30-40, maybe more). That would leave her with a wheel with new rim and the original hub, which may or may not be very high quality. Getting the LBS to put in a new rim was recommendation #2 . I mentioned that this would likely be more expensive than just buying a new wheel.
Option #3 was for the OP to try to relace the wheel herself. I suggested that she need to either do a lot of research to find a rim with the exact ERD, or she will need spokes too. So $20-30 for rim and spokes, and a few bucks for a spoke wrench. And a lot of time. That was option 3.
At no point do I recommend building a new wheel from scratch. BTW, relacing a replacement rim with the same ERD is a lot simpler than building a new wheel (for replacement, you can tape the new rim to the old, loosen all the spokes, and then you can swap spokes over one by one very quickly).
I think we both are suggesting that she buy a replacement wheel. My note was intended to answer the question the OP asked in a way that gently suggested this, but did not insult.
But I tried to reply to the OPs question, without being condescending. I suggested that the OP could take her wheel to the LBS they would be able to find a rim (30-60 bucks) and possibly new spokes if the ERD didn't match(another $10) and then relace and retrue ($30-40, maybe more). That would leave her with a wheel with new rim and the original hub, which may or may not be very high quality. Getting the LBS to put in a new rim was recommendation #2 . I mentioned that this would likely be more expensive than just buying a new wheel.
Option #3 was for the OP to try to relace the wheel herself. I suggested that she need to either do a lot of research to find a rim with the exact ERD, or she will need spokes too. So $20-30 for rim and spokes, and a few bucks for a spoke wrench. And a lot of time. That was option 3.
At no point do I recommend building a new wheel from scratch. BTW, relacing a replacement rim with the same ERD is a lot simpler than building a new wheel (for replacement, you can tape the new rim to the old, loosen all the spokes, and then you can swap spokes over one by one very quickly).
I think we both are suggesting that she buy a replacement wheel. My note was intended to answer the question the OP asked in a way that gently suggested this, but did not insult.
04-30-20, 07:35 PM
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And you don't need to appoint yourself the verbosity police (and actually misineterpreting what I wrote). In doing so you've actually lengthened the conversation. You could have answered with a citation of the wheel (which was useful), left it at that, and it would have saved you and me several posts.
