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How much is this going to cost me?

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Old 05-10-20, 08:13 AM
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tdonline
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How much is this going to cost me?

Stupid human tricks: weekend edition

In order to install a front rack and basket, I moved my front hub light. That actually worked out as I specifically bought a rack with a light attachment space. The stupid human part was partially cutting the wire to the rear light . Amazingly the light still...partially worked. Due to the front light move, the rear wire had to accommodate the move also. Now it was very loose when turning to the right but taut turning left. So taut it snapped. Double

Since I know nothing of electronics, I'm going to have to take this to the LBS. I imagine the materials cost will be negligible but am unsure how labor intensive this will be? Is it a case of patching the wire where it snapped? Or will the mechanic have to strip the wire all the way back to the rear light? The wiring is tucked inside the bike, runs along the fender and there's a rack there too.

I am also assuming this is something any old LBS can take care of. Or it a more niche skill that not every LBS has and I will have to look for a specialist?

I really liked the rear light--where the front light is pretty weak, the rear is large and bright.
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Old 05-10-20, 08:39 AM
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I'm not getting a real good sense of where the problem is from your description but... what is stopping you from splicing the 2 ends, twisting them together and putting some electrical tape around them?
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Old 05-10-20, 08:42 AM
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Ross520
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Anybody can strip and crimp a wire, don't sell yourself short. Plenty of videos on YouTube that will guide you through the process. It's easy, trust me.
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Old 05-10-20, 08:48 AM
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Okay, so no need to remove the wire entirely and replacing with a new one. That makes things much less complicated.

Patching up wires--I'll Youtube some starter videos.

I still have to figure out how I can wire it so when I turn right, the wire doesn't become so loose it dangles into the wheel. Conversely, I have to have enough slack so when I turn the left, the wire doesn't become too taut and impede a full turn.

Edit as I realize that I may not have described the new set up properly. Before the rack/basket, the hub light was mounted to the fork and the rear light was wired to the hub light. From there it was a simple path into the bike tube along with the other cabling. Now with the hub light at the front of the rack, the rear light wire has to run along the rack to reach the front hub light. I think I may have make the wire longer and wrap it around the front rack so it acts like an accordion?

Last edited by tdonline; 05-10-20 at 08:57 AM.
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Old 05-10-20, 09:12 AM
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Look up wire splicing not patching. Use the same or bigger gauge wire on the extension. Also look into "heat shrink tubing" as a outer covering for sealing and protection.
Think about where and how you'll run the longer wire to have the least amount of movement when turning BEFORE you decide how much wire you need to add.
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Old 05-10-20, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by tdonline

I still have to figure out how I can wire it so when I turn right, the wire doesn't become so loose it dangles into the wheel. Conversely, I have to have enough slack so when I turn the left, the wire doesn't become too taut and impede a full turn.

Edit as I realize that I may not have described the new set up properly. Before the rack/basket, the hub light was mounted to the fork and the rear light was wired to the hub light. From there it was a simple path into the bike tube along with the other cabling. Now with the hub light at the front of the rack, the rear light wire has to run along the rack to reach the front hub light. I think I may have make the wire longer and wrap it around the front rack so it acts like an accordion?
I think you're starting to see what you need to do . You need to secure the wire from the light, all the way to the back edge of the rack's frame, where it's closest to the top of the forks. This will keep it out of the wheels. Now, you can make the slack loop that will allow you to turn the wheel without the wire going tight.
By going from the frame to the back of the rack, it keeps the slack loop from being so big that it flops around and gets in the way.
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