cyccommute 

I would say very for some bottom brackets. If the bottom bracket is external or splined, a torque wrench really isn't needed. If the bottom bracket is square taper, you are just asking for trouble if you do it by "feel". I seen tons of hogged out square tapers caused by loose crank arm bolts because someone couldn't be bother to get a torque wrench.

jma1st3r

yah, for peace of mind I have one for my lug nuts. and found one on discount. dont have to spend too much for it.

also, get a extended ball tip bits while at it, real handy.

Amt0571

Really important for carbon components. No so much for steel or alu ones.

GeneO 

Read the 1 star reviews, they are telling. If a torque wrench is needed get a good torque wrench.

jma1st3r

Tho sometimes 1 star could due to misuse. Lots of purchase is for automotive use, but they bought the cheaper one thinking it would do the same job....

But they end up buying the lb-in wrench which isnt for common automotive purpose. They wanted lb-ft

GeneO 

The one star reviews have nothing to do with what you are suggesting - they are about the quality and accuracy of the device. It does not replace a good mechanical wrench.

jma1st3r

I read some of the reviews before I bought mine, some were complaining the wrench never clicked when working on their car. When clearly what they were working on exceeded what its designed for. (check wrench rating folks)

I didn't say all, I said sometimes. There are bad wrenches and poor makes, I understand that fact.

*oh! You meant the 1 star for that specific item. I thought you meant generally speaking...

2_i 

When you read these 1-star reviews carefully, you may notice that they refer to mechanical devices, not a digital one. Amazon offers a variety of torque instruments there and unfortunately lumps the reviews together. You can find an overview of the digital adapters that are currently available here. I own M206 and it gives readings consistent a mechanical and reputable torque wrench I have. However, the digital device is so much easier to use - I do not think I will be going ever back to the mechanical one in everyday life.

GeneO 

Hah, you are right. I did not catch that even though I am aware of how Amazon lumps together reviews for related products.

Retro Grouch 

The torque spec for bottom brackets and for crank arm fixing bolts is generally around 30 ft/lbs. Imaging a 30 pound weight hanging off the end of a foot long wrench.

30 ft/lbs is more than I would probably use if left to my own judgement but less than what I'm capable of. It's definitely more than I'd use if I were tightening a crank arm with a folding Allen key set.

GeneO 

Could look into a beam type. That is what I currently use for larger torques like BB, and hubs, cassettes, rotors.

aggiegrads

You would be surprised how much people misjudge weight. I work in a factory where the workers are not supposed to lift anything less than 25 pounds by themselves, and Anything over fifty pounds needs lifting devices (hoist, crane, etc.).

We routinely find people lifting things that are 40-50 pounds that they estimate to be below 25. Most people are really surprised how much something weighs when they actually put it on a scale. This is also why no fastener is installed without a torque spec and torque wrench or screwdriver.

Retro Grouch 

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." Mark Twain.

2_i 

I worked in a factory where much of my work was lifting items and holding them steady in the air. The obvious factor was exhaustion: The same item weighted differently at the start of the day than few hours in. Typical person working on a bike may be in a tad better situation as that work is not as physically exhausting as some activities at a factory.

Racing Dan

Obviously it IS impossible to gauge, by hand, how much torque you apply, but you have to ask yourself its really important to know in the first place. - Not very close seem to be close enough. - I mean, sure, you're not likely to hit 5 Nm or 40 Nm on the nose by hand, but its also not like you cant safely mount a bar or seat post or cassette without a torque wrench, unless you are a true ham fist. Im betting its less than 1% of bike mechanics that own or use a torque tool, but its not like all those bikes, put together by basic hand tools assplodes or fall apart "just because".


As mentioned before I would recommend using torque with carbon parts, but then again I would also advice using caution when picking the parts in the first place. For instance many stems are inherently not suitable for carbon sterrers or bars because the clamping surfaces are reduced to the bare minimum, ensuring you will leave clamping marks in the soft carbon no matter what you do.

danh123

What kind of torque wrench would people recommend for most situations? I see there are some drivers set to 4, 5, or 6 nm, there is one driver that is adjustable, then there is a regular torque wrench and I guess you just change the heads on that and can make it a driver as well. They make those in 1/4, 1/2 etc.

What is the best choice?

Ernie_13

I got myself adjustable torque wrench. They are pretty cheap and cover most of the situations on your bike. Mine goes from 2Nm to 20Nm and you can change bits as you want. It is 1/4. 1/4" is for all small parts, all bolts on bike. 1/2" is for torquing bottom bracket and rather larger jobs.
My result: Most useful is 1/4" adjustable torque 2Nm-20Nm

2_i 

You can break a 1/4" drive by hand - it is like a relatively thin bolt. Considering that you might be interested in higher torques for larger bolts, I would go with a higher drive and use a coupler to go down. I also totally recommend a digital device. You can use it to answer various kind of questions, like how much torque can my fingers apply to a thumb screw, etc.

Fissile

When I was high school stupident taking auto shop class, I asked my shop teacher how much torque I should put some some particular fastener. His reply: "1/4 turn before snap." Words to live by.

GeneO 

Bet he never worked on a Carbon bike.

Aiden white

if it is carbon get a torque wrench but if it is metal you will probably be fine

Fissile

It was 1980, cars were made of metal...bikes too. In those days all kinds of stuff was made of metal....refrigerators, airplanes, even guns were made of metal. Now get off my lawn.

HerrKaLeun

Always torque.

But for bicycles you need 2 tourque wrenches. One for up to about 20 nm, and one for the larger ones, over 40 nm.

Note you need one that measures clock and counterclock wise for BB. Only the good tourque wrenches measure both ways. I have a bad one that only works one way and have to eyeball the other BB cup. Maybe time to buy a better one.....

Schmalejandreau

Just my fifteen cents. A torque wrench has a service-culture dimension to it. Using one is professional, clean and the proper way to go. But then, it is an investment. These things do not last forever I hear, and at least the type that I have needs to be unwound after each use, so the spring does not retain the stress. I use it for all sensitive spots where the bolts can be easily ruined: the seat-post collar and around the stem. Oh, and the Shimano pinch bolts! That one is critical. The BB and my GXP crank are just fine tightened to about as tight as I can go.

"I have always done without a torque wrench and I have never had any issues" is not going to help you, should you encounter an issue.

Ernie_13

I have couple of 1/4" wrenches (even cheap brands) and never snapped it. Same case with my torque one. And more importantly, when come to torque wrench with 1/4" - it is designed for torques up to around 20Nm - that would never snap it (unless some no name eBay tool). Using large 1/2" torque wrench is not too handy for bike, since it is larger and heavier and I really can´t think where you need on bike such a larger torque - except BB.