How can I get faster past 15mph?
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This might be a dumb question, but are you comparing to your friends on the same road segments? If not, your numbers might not be as different as you think. I also average about 14 mph outside because I have to deal with a lot of stop signs, turns, and moving over to let cars pass on narrow roads (and I swear no matter what direction you go in my area the wind is always in your face going uphill). I'm far from the strongest rider, but I can maintain 15-20 on a rolling straight road if I can actually find one.
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The FulGaz software has a beginner 12wk FTP program I'm trying.
It started as a critique of my trainer hardware and moved to other items.
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This. You have slow twitch, and fast twitch muscles. Long rides build your slow twitch (endurance). Hi intensity intervals (sprint, then recover, repeat) will build the fast twitch. Oversimplified, but generally accurate. Mix in some interval training with your current distance rides.
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For seated climbing, I use the forward section of the touring bar that is about two inches ahead of the stem clamp. Roughly like climbing on the hoods of my drop bar bike but slightly higher and closer.
I’ve even used that experience as a cue to raise the bar height on my drop bars (a bunch) and it certainly hasn’t hurt my climbing pace.
Otto
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Thank you! As follow up:
- Definitely nothing wrong with 14mph, I just want to be faster on the bike.Nothing wrong with that. I like to ride "fast" (for me), myself.
- My current schedule is about 100 miles per week, with a couple of 20 mile rides in the week and longer on the weekends, mostly at easy pace. Sounds good.
- As for the bike, I can look into different road wheelsets and geometry but for now I want to get best out of the diverge (just bought it). It's long and bit relaxed but no reason it should be slower than the hybrid (>10lbs heavier!) IMO some people focus far too much on the equipment, and not enough on the motor. There's nothing wrong with the Diverge or the wheels, that's not what's holding you back. Unless the fit is completely off.
- Could it be my position on the bike is not getting the most power I was able to on the hybrid? Could be, IME it can take a while to get everything right on a new bike. Different positions can use different muscles and require different pedaling styles. In a more upright position, you were likely pushing down on the pedals more, while in a lower position you should have a rounder pedal stroke, which takes time to develop. You'll also use your glutes, lower back and core more in a lower position. If you have some more experienced friends, ask them to comment on your fit and position. Or, go back to the LBS where you bought the bike and ask for help, they might give you some pointers, and might offer fittings (which can cost $100 or more).
- What interval training do you guys recommend? As I mentioned in my original post, I wouldn't recommend intervals yet. Get a solid base first. Repetitive motion injuries suck, and they can keep you off the bike, which totally derails your plans.
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Thank you! As follow up:
- Definitely nothing wrong with 14mph, I just want to be faster on the bike.
- My current schedule is about 100 miles per week, with a couple of 20 mile rides in the week and longer on the weekends, mostly at easy pace.
- As for the bike, I can look into different road wheelsets and geometry but for now I want to get best out of the diverge (just bought it). It's long and bit relaxed but no reason it should be slower than the hybrid (>10lbs heavier!)
- Could it be my position on the bike is not getting the most power I was able to on the hybrid?
- What interval training do you guys recommend?
#32
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Definitely agree with all the points you made, especially about the bike being just fine, and improving the motor.
On the last point, how much of a base do you recommend I build before intervals? I've biked around 350-400 miles a month for the last 2 months.
On the last point, how much of a base do you recommend I build before intervals? I've biked around 350-400 miles a month for the last 2 months.
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#34
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.......................
................If all of this sounds like a big change in your life, then you're right. You don't have to be a monk, but if you're really interested in going fast on a bike, for normal human beings it takes some commitment to get to 18+ mph avg on mixed terrain.
................If all of this sounds like a big change in your life, then you're right. You don't have to be a monk, but if you're really interested in going fast on a bike, for normal human beings it takes some commitment to get to 18+ mph avg on mixed terrain.
This is where using STRAVA or Map My Ride apps are very useful. You should have a training/ride log but even so I can look back at a ride i did last year, do the same now and bask in the improvement. On mixed terrain with a hilly emphasis I can see my personal progress over the last 6-7 months where my average speed is increased by almost 4 MPH. The two other things that make me happy, I've gone from dreading climbs to attacking them and last year I was constantly having to reposition myself on the bike, now I'm naturally finding my best riding position without squirming all over the place. But again it was time and pain to get there.
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When you go on these 20 mile rides, can you do them without stopping?
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You just need to ride more, get stronger. Don't let it become a burden, just enjoy the ride and you will get stronger.
Big guys can fly. I used to average 20+ on level when I was at 6' 220#. But I've slowed with age, just a fact of nature.
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#38
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After 2 years of > 3000+ mi, I was able to ride for 4 hours comfortably and do solo centuries in the 6.5 hr (total time) range, was doing some 1000+ mi months, mixing in some 1 hr sub-LT threshold workouts, most rides were averaging over 18 mph, and averaged 20+ on flat terrain (once for 4 hours, but I was running from T-storms for much of that ride) - all on a '95 Cannondale T-700 with 35mm tires, early 40s, 5'10", ca 160-165 lb. As I said, VERY ordinary numbers.
#40
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I got no problem with speed. But a 20 mile ride is a great accomplishment and averaging 14 mph in 5 or 6 months is pretty dang good I think. Speed will come if that's the goal.
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Here's a way you can do a simple interval set without a powermeter or HRM: Find a relatively flat stretch of road where you can ride for 20-30 minutes without having to stop. Ride out there easily to warm up. Ride 20 minutes at 16mph. Try to keep it as steady as possible. Soft pedal for 5 minutes, get a drink, whatever. Turn around and ride 20 minutes at 16mph back to the start. Easy ride home. Do this a couple or three times a week. After 16mph seems too easy, bump it to 17.
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This can take you from zero to hero in one season.
#43
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This. You have slow twitch, and fast twitch muscles. Long rides build your slow twitch (endurance). Hi intensity intervals (sprint, then recover, repeat) will build the fast twitch. Oversimplified, but generally accurate. Mix in some interval training with your current distance rides.
Last edited by u235; 06-18-20 at 10:06 PM.
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You already got all the advice you need from people who have done more training than I, but if you want to go faster you just have to turn the pedals faster. Which does bring the question to cadence.
I don’t know if you just mash or spin. Years ago my goal was 90 or more. I had a computer with cadence and that was what drove me. After a while I didn’t need it; it is just the way I ride.
How fast can you go over 5 miles? 16? 17? 18? 20?
If you can go fast over 5 miles and then run out of gas, you need to ride more miles at speed.
If climbing is your downfall then hit the hills. Hills always made me stronger.
And, everything is a race. Except for some exploring rides.
I don’t adhere to this so much anymore.
John
I don’t know if you just mash or spin. Years ago my goal was 90 or more. I had a computer with cadence and that was what drove me. After a while I didn’t need it; it is just the way I ride.
How fast can you go over 5 miles? 16? 17? 18? 20?
If you can go fast over 5 miles and then run out of gas, you need to ride more miles at speed.
If climbing is your downfall then hit the hills. Hills always made me stronger.
And, everything is a race. Except for some exploring rides.
I don’t adhere to this so much anymore.
John
Last edited by 70sSanO; 06-18-20 at 08:11 PM.
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Math is a funny thing sometimes. The drag on slower riders is less than faster riders. So when you apply savings, the watts difference is less. But, that pesky math. Slower riders save more time because for the same distance rides it takes them longer to do them. For the same 20mi ride, a slower rider will save more time from aero upgrades than a fast rider.
.
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What you are claiming can make sense were wind resistance a linear function of speed, (like rolling resistance) but it is not. It increases exponentially.
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Basically, it's the math of it takes a slower rider up to 50% longer to ride the same distance as a fast rider. So, even if the slower rider sees like 20% less benefit than the fast rider.........he or she is on-course for so much longer the time saved is more. Imagine being given a smaller bucket to scoop water into a trough, but given more time to scoop it than the person with a bigger bucket.
Also, since like you say, aero drag is non-linear........those extra watts saved by the faster rider don't make the faster rider linearly faster. Saving 20w at 28mph isn't the same as saving 15w at 15mph. That 20w at 28mph won't get you much more speed. But 15w at only 15mph could get you a lot more.
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Otto
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Let us all be truly thankful this is not true. Wind resistance increases with the square of the velocity with respect to the wind (bike speed plus head wind speed) and, for completeness, times the road speed, the combined frontal area and coefficient of wind resistance. If it were exponential, we would just stay home on windy days, I reckon.
Otto
Otto
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#49
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This will be a big part of the reason people move away from gravel bikes, now they're so on trend but people will eventually piece together that they're slower than a regular roadbikes.
Unless you are actually riding on non paved surfaces that gravel bike is slowing you down
How much? Not much, but it's slowing you down for certain.
It's not weight, it's aero... The difference between an endurance bike and an aero bike is not just tube shapes, rider position is a huge reason for the AERO advantage of an aero bike. Even at 14 mph aero matters. Depending on setup a gravel bike can be basically the same as a hybrid for rider position.
If you have lots of trails to use nearby a gravel bike could be fun, but riding one on pavement sounds frustrating if speed is your goal
Unless you are actually riding on non paved surfaces that gravel bike is slowing you down
How much? Not much, but it's slowing you down for certain.
It's not weight, it's aero... The difference between an endurance bike and an aero bike is not just tube shapes, rider position is a huge reason for the AERO advantage of an aero bike. Even at 14 mph aero matters. Depending on setup a gravel bike can be basically the same as a hybrid for rider position.
If you have lots of trails to use nearby a gravel bike could be fun, but riding one on pavement sounds frustrating if speed is your goal
Last edited by Tacoenthusiast; 06-19-20 at 08:36 AM.
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The one link in my post above has a link buried at the bottom of that website that takes you to their math. Their wheelsets data has a table broken down my your expected mph for like an Ironman or something and the expected time saved.
Basically, it's the math of it takes a slower rider up to 50% longer to ride the same distance as a fast rider. So, even if the slower rider sees like 20% less benefit than the fast rider.........he or she is on-course for so much longer the time saved is more. Imagine being given a smaller bucket to scoop water into a trough, but given more time to scoop it than the person with a bigger bucket.
Also, since like you say, aero drag is non-linear........those extra watts saved by the faster rider don't make the faster rider linearly faster. Saving 20w at 28mph isn't the same as saving 15w at 15mph. That 20w at 28mph won't get you much more speed. But 15w at only 15mph could get you a lot more.
Basically, it's the math of it takes a slower rider up to 50% longer to ride the same distance as a fast rider. So, even if the slower rider sees like 20% less benefit than the fast rider.........he or she is on-course for so much longer the time saved is more. Imagine being given a smaller bucket to scoop water into a trough, but given more time to scoop it than the person with a bigger bucket.
Also, since like you say, aero drag is non-linear........those extra watts saved by the faster rider don't make the faster rider linearly faster. Saving 20w at 28mph isn't the same as saving 15w at 15mph. That 20w at 28mph won't get you much more speed. But 15w at only 15mph could get you a lot more.
I took a look at the link, and that's a great example of sales-driven logic. The real question is what are the primary factors limiting your speed to 15 mph and where do you get the biggest bang for the buck countering them. Drag would only be one of those factors, and at that speed such a small one that marginal changes in it are highly unlikely to have any noticeable effect. That math is done by a guy selling a product, there's no evidence that it actually works out that way in the real world, and I think it's completely simplistic.