Pls Critique My Bike Fit - Shoulders are hurtin
#27
Me duelen las nalgas
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Don't mess with the bike fit at all for now. No point, as all the contradictory suggestions in this thread reveal. You'll just be chasing your own tail, shifting pain from one part of the body to another.
Recently I switched from a 90mm to 110mm stem to restore some handling lost to the shorter stem. The short stem was comfortable but twitchy on fast curves on less than perfect pavement. The longer stem is more stable. But it came at the cost of increased neck pain (my C1-C2 are permanently damaged from multiple injuries). The problem isn't the stem. The problem is my failure to do my home PT for a few weeks.
Work on physical therapy exercises for 4-8 weeks. It'll take at least 4 weeks to see any improvements.
Re-evaluate bike fit *after* a course of consistent PT.
That's what I did last year, with a PT who was familiar with the challenges of bike riding. I visited the clinic 2-3 times a week for two months, mostly focusing on strengthening. And I did my own work at home, at a lighter level, mostly focusing on range of motion and flexibility. For the first month it felt like I was making zero progress. Around the 5th week it finally began to click.
It took some time to overcome the cumulative damage from multiple serious injuries. But it worked. And now that I've neglected my home PT for a month, I can feel the negative effects. So it's up to me to resume my home PT.
Recently I switched from a 90mm to 110mm stem to restore some handling lost to the shorter stem. The short stem was comfortable but twitchy on fast curves on less than perfect pavement. The longer stem is more stable. But it came at the cost of increased neck pain (my C1-C2 are permanently damaged from multiple injuries). The problem isn't the stem. The problem is my failure to do my home PT for a few weeks.
Work on physical therapy exercises for 4-8 weeks. It'll take at least 4 weeks to see any improvements.
Re-evaluate bike fit *after* a course of consistent PT.
That's what I did last year, with a PT who was familiar with the challenges of bike riding. I visited the clinic 2-3 times a week for two months, mostly focusing on strengthening. And I did my own work at home, at a lighter level, mostly focusing on range of motion and flexibility. For the first month it felt like I was making zero progress. Around the 5th week it finally began to click.
It took some time to overcome the cumulative damage from multiple serious injuries. But it worked. And now that I've neglected my home PT for a month, I can feel the negative effects. So it's up to me to resume my home PT.
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#28
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There’s nothing simple about bike fit, so you’re always going to get different opinions. I think your best bet, if you want to be able to figure this out on your own, is to mark your current measurements and experiment with all suggestions.
The whole “you need to work out and get a stronger core” thing seems straight out of left field to me. I don’t think cyclists are generally prime specimens when it comes to upper body strength, or strength in general, honestly. I am of the belief that most people should be able to ride a bike pain-free, though not necessarily at a high power/distance or in a low position. That, combined with the fact that you have actually been going to the gym (more than what most cyclists do) makes me very skeptical of the whole “get stronger” slant.
I think the correct solution to hand numbness is moving your saddle back. Yes, it does change the way you pedal. But your pedal stroke is adaptable. TT bikes, mountain bikes and road bikes all have vastly different pedaling positions, and yet people swap between them all the time. Moving the saddle back will shift weight from your hands to your butt.
Second, you should be wary of sitting that upright. It seems to be forcing you to really stretch your arms to reach the bars. The issue with that is you can’t really absorb shock with your arms, which causes your shoulders to take the hit. Keep the bars where they are, but try to rotate your hips forward - basically putting more pressure on the perineum, as crazy as that sounds. Get a saddle that can accommodate that position.
The whole “you need to work out and get a stronger core” thing seems straight out of left field to me. I don’t think cyclists are generally prime specimens when it comes to upper body strength, or strength in general, honestly. I am of the belief that most people should be able to ride a bike pain-free, though not necessarily at a high power/distance or in a low position. That, combined with the fact that you have actually been going to the gym (more than what most cyclists do) makes me very skeptical of the whole “get stronger” slant.
I think the correct solution to hand numbness is moving your saddle back. Yes, it does change the way you pedal. But your pedal stroke is adaptable. TT bikes, mountain bikes and road bikes all have vastly different pedaling positions, and yet people swap between them all the time. Moving the saddle back will shift weight from your hands to your butt.
Second, you should be wary of sitting that upright. It seems to be forcing you to really stretch your arms to reach the bars. The issue with that is you can’t really absorb shock with your arms, which causes your shoulders to take the hit. Keep the bars where they are, but try to rotate your hips forward - basically putting more pressure on the perineum, as crazy as that sounds. Get a saddle that can accommodate that position.
Last edited by smashndash; 06-28-20 at 02:08 AM.
#29
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call me crazy but the saddle seems way too low. op is talking about hand/arm pain with a really upright and seemingly cramped position.
all the weight should be on the netherregions in that position. looks like op might be 6ft 2in or so. saddle looks like it's already waay back.
if there aren't flexibility issues (like extreme back pain or pre-existing injury/scar tissue ), raise that saddle equal to or just above the top of the stem and reduce the upright positioning.
this would force a more forward-leaning position. would reduce the "cramped" feeling, possibly improve climbing technique and reduce the pressure
on the hands. it would stretch out the lower back and force it to act as more of a bridge than the displayed pic. with the butt higher up and farther back,
the lower back will take more of the pressure than the hands. may work or be too radical but i think it's worth a try on a 10-15 mile exploratory ride with
a multitool/allen wrenches to micro-adjust handlebars, seatpost height and saddle tilt/forward/back placement along the way.
i ride 5,000 miles a year with an existing lower back problem. all the saddles on my four bikes are higher than the top of my stems. works for me.
may or may not work for you. definitely do not feel cramped and if the butt or hands hurt, it's simple enuff to lean forward or back to rest one or the other
and on rides of 60+ miles, i'll do just that.
been riding 20 years. i don't pre or post stretch or do core work and never have during that time. i just ride. you should be able to dial your bike in to match your
body's natural preferences and your riding style. will probably take more than a week but just keep making micro-tweaks along the way while listening to your body.
another poster mentioned handlebar length. points on your shoudlers should match the ends of the handlebars where they curve forwards.
all the weight should be on the netherregions in that position. looks like op might be 6ft 2in or so. saddle looks like it's already waay back.
if there aren't flexibility issues (like extreme back pain or pre-existing injury/scar tissue ), raise that saddle equal to or just above the top of the stem and reduce the upright positioning.
this would force a more forward-leaning position. would reduce the "cramped" feeling, possibly improve climbing technique and reduce the pressure
on the hands. it would stretch out the lower back and force it to act as more of a bridge than the displayed pic. with the butt higher up and farther back,
the lower back will take more of the pressure than the hands. may work or be too radical but i think it's worth a try on a 10-15 mile exploratory ride with
a multitool/allen wrenches to micro-adjust handlebars, seatpost height and saddle tilt/forward/back placement along the way.
i ride 5,000 miles a year with an existing lower back problem. all the saddles on my four bikes are higher than the top of my stems. works for me.
may or may not work for you. definitely do not feel cramped and if the butt or hands hurt, it's simple enuff to lean forward or back to rest one or the other
and on rides of 60+ miles, i'll do just that.
been riding 20 years. i don't pre or post stretch or do core work and never have during that time. i just ride. you should be able to dial your bike in to match your
body's natural preferences and your riding style. will probably take more than a week but just keep making micro-tweaks along the way while listening to your body.
another poster mentioned handlebar length. points on your shoudlers should match the ends of the handlebars where they curve forwards.
Last edited by diphthong; 06-28-20 at 06:23 AM.
#31
Senior Member
Don't mess with the bike fit at all for now. No point, as all the contradictory suggestions in this thread reveal. You'll just be chasing your own tail, shifting pain from one part of the body to another.
Recently I switched from a 90mm to 110mm stem to restore some handling lost to the shorter stem. The short stem was comfortable but twitchy on fast curves on less than perfect pavement. The longer stem is more stable. But it came at the cost of increased neck pain (my C1-C2 are permanently damaged from multiple injuries). The problem isn't the stem. The problem is my failure to do my home PT for a few weeks.
Work on physical therapy exercises for 4-8 weeks. It'll take at least 4 weeks to see any improvements.
Re-evaluate bike fit *after* a course of consistent PT.
That's what I did last year, with a PT who was familiar with the challenges of bike riding. I visited the clinic 2-3 times a week for two months, mostly focusing on strengthening. And I did my own work at home, at a lighter level, mostly focusing on range of motion and flexibility. For the first month it felt like I was making zero progress. Around the 5th week it finally began to click.
It took some time to overcome the cumulative damage from multiple serious injuries. But it worked. And now that I've neglected my home PT for a month, I can feel the negative effects. So it's up to me to resume my home PT.
Recently I switched from a 90mm to 110mm stem to restore some handling lost to the shorter stem. The short stem was comfortable but twitchy on fast curves on less than perfect pavement. The longer stem is more stable. But it came at the cost of increased neck pain (my C1-C2 are permanently damaged from multiple injuries). The problem isn't the stem. The problem is my failure to do my home PT for a few weeks.
Work on physical therapy exercises for 4-8 weeks. It'll take at least 4 weeks to see any improvements.
Re-evaluate bike fit *after* a course of consistent PT.
That's what I did last year, with a PT who was familiar with the challenges of bike riding. I visited the clinic 2-3 times a week for two months, mostly focusing on strengthening. And I did my own work at home, at a lighter level, mostly focusing on range of motion and flexibility. For the first month it felt like I was making zero progress. Around the 5th week it finally began to click.
It took some time to overcome the cumulative damage from multiple serious injuries. But it worked. And now that I've neglected my home PT for a month, I can feel the negative effects. So it's up to me to resume my home PT.
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Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
#32
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like Germanrazor said, how wide are your bars? You look like a big guy, if your bars are something like 40s they're too narrow. You look plenty fit to me. I'm 5'10" 170 with average shoulder width I like a bar that's 44cm wide at the hoods measured outside to outside.
Last edited by grizzly59; 06-28-20 at 11:02 AM.
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Looking at your upper back I'd say you do need core work.
Can't quite tell because of your shirt, but it looks like your shoulders are slightly hunched upward? (arms/shoulders need to relax).
Core work would push your spine forward and your position at the bars lower and perhaps a little longer (stem swap).
Would find your body weight better balanced between fore-aft when riding, thus reduced shoulder pain.
Can't quite tell because of your shirt, but it looks like your shoulders are slightly hunched upward? (arms/shoulders need to relax).
Core work would push your spine forward and your position at the bars lower and perhaps a little longer (stem swap).
Would find your body weight better balanced between fore-aft when riding, thus reduced shoulder pain.
#34
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I also call bunk on “hip/hamstring flexibility”. I have none to speak of, and my bike is set up with 4+ inches of drop. The main limiter, especially for tall people, is just saddle shape. You have to be able to lean forward onto your perineum.
Last edited by smashndash; 06-28-20 at 10:49 AM.
#35
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Here's my primer on bike fit: https://www.bikeforums.net/21296948-post3.html
It's not that easy to fit a person as tall as you are. Top tube is short, which is the start of the problem. The builder probably went that way to keep frame stiffness using those tube sizes.
Of course exercise and stretching will help, and I also usually recommend getting physically fit over getting bike fit, but this fit is way off - IME and thus IMO.
It's not that easy to fit a person as tall as you are. Top tube is short, which is the start of the problem. The builder probably went that way to keep frame stiffness using those tube sizes.
Of course exercise and stretching will help, and I also usually recommend getting physically fit over getting bike fit, but this fit is way off - IME and thus IMO.
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#36
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that is a lot of rise on that spacer.. that leads me to think the bike is small.. but i would suggest a bike fit by a shop.
#37
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As you can see lots of opinions in here. If you do decide to mess with your fit, I suggest marking where everything is right now so you can go back. Couple things:
1. Can you email or call the fitter and convey your concerns to him/her? Maybe they can make a suggestions since they're literally the only person who's seen you ride and given fit advice.
2. Lots of suggestions on flexibility and core work which will probably help. You may want to try some yoga too. Just google yoga for cycling and lots will come up. I've had terrible sciatica pain the past 3 years and 2 weeks of yoga and it went away. Different part of the body but heavily related to flexibility as well. Changed my life. It's very different to follow a facilitated yoga session as your stretch vs. just knocking out a few stretches at home. Might be worth a shot.
Good luck
Rob
1. Can you email or call the fitter and convey your concerns to him/her? Maybe they can make a suggestions since they're literally the only person who's seen you ride and given fit advice.
2. Lots of suggestions on flexibility and core work which will probably help. You may want to try some yoga too. Just google yoga for cycling and lots will come up. I've had terrible sciatica pain the past 3 years and 2 weeks of yoga and it went away. Different part of the body but heavily related to flexibility as well. Changed my life. It's very different to follow a facilitated yoga session as your stretch vs. just knocking out a few stretches at home. Might be worth a shot.
Good luck
Rob