Buying new saddle
#1
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Buying new saddle
Mostly a curiosity question. When buying a new saddle how would you know if it’s the right fit?Weather it’s comfortable? Right saddle for the riding you do? The saddle that came with my bike is working out fine. I just thought I’d throw out the question. Also how will I know when I need to replace the pads on my disc breaks?
#3
Senior Member
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#5
aka Phil Jungels
I have Specialized Body Geometry (which is surprisingly comfortable), Brooks B-17 which is a very nice saddle (and quite comfortable), and Selle AnAtomica which is an extremely nice saddle (and extremely comfortable - and also my favorite).
Those are my choices!
Those are my choices!
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Test ride and bring your buttocks
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Mostly a curiosity question. When buying a new saddle how would you know if it’s the right fit?Weather it’s comfortable? Right saddle for the riding you do? The saddle that came with my bike is working out fine. I just thought I’d throw out the question. Also how will I know when I need to replace the pads on my disc breaks?
As for the disk pads, just visually inspect them. If the bike is new notice the thickness of the pads now and make a mental note. If the bike isn’t new, go look at a pair of replacement pads at your local bike store and make a mental note of the thickness. Then inspect your pads every 6 months or so. When they get very thin, replace them. I can get about 12-15,000 miles out of my pads, but some people get significantly more and some significantly less.
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Some bike shops have "test saddles" you can use to help decide which saddle works best. You put a nominal deposit down, install the test saddle on your bike, ride for some arbitrary period (days, weeks, whatever the shop can agree to), and get your deposit back (or apply it to a new saddle) when you return the test saddle.
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Some bike shops have "test saddles" you can use to help decide which saddle works best. You put a nominal deposit down, install the test saddle on your bike, ride for some arbitrary period (days, weeks, whatever the shop can agree to), and get your deposit back (or apply it to a new saddle) when you return the test saddle.
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#11
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#12
Senior Member
I'll take a stab at the great saddle dilemma. Narrow down what saddle would work for you. Find out if you like a short-nose or long-nose saddle. Curvey or flat, cut out, no cut out. Go to your local Specialized dealer and get your sit bones measured. Find a saddle that is at least 20mm wider than your sit bones.
#13
Senior Member
Saddles - good advice given so far: find a local bike shop that will let you test ride saddles and try them out. A bike shop may also have some saddle manufacturer test system that will give you an idea of size and shape.
Disc pads: short answer is when the pads reach 1mm in thickness, time to replace. That is a bit thinner than a US dime, or (legend has it) 3 business cards.
On anything bike maintenance-wise, you can do an internet search on the term and add Park Tool -they have very good videos explaining stuff. I find that is easier than finding old threads on the online forums.
Disc pads: short answer is when the pads reach 1mm in thickness, time to replace. That is a bit thinner than a US dime, or (legend has it) 3 business cards.
On anything bike maintenance-wise, you can do an internet search on the term and add Park Tool -they have very good videos explaining stuff. I find that is easier than finding old threads on the online forums.
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Saddles have characteristics, as j@Sojodave pointed out above. Learn the attributes of saddles that work for you, and buy only "in family" of those sorts of saddles. For me (for a racing position or for MTB):
1) Narrow
2) Flat fore and aft, not scooped
3) Flat port to starboard, not rounded
4) Firm beneath, and minimally padded
5) Under 200 grams
For a utility/touring position, then add:
1) A bit wider, think Brooks Team Pro
2) Leather, with laced side skirts
3) Weight is not a consideration
1) Narrow
2) Flat fore and aft, not scooped
3) Flat port to starboard, not rounded
4) Firm beneath, and minimally padded
5) Under 200 grams
For a utility/touring position, then add:
1) A bit wider, think Brooks Team Pro
2) Leather, with laced side skirts
3) Weight is not a consideration
Last edited by Phil_gretz; 08-03-20 at 11:40 AM.
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Mostly a curiosity question. When buying a new saddle how would you know if it’s the right fit?Weather it’s comfortable? Right saddle for the riding you do? The saddle that came with my bike is working out fine. I just thought I’d throw out the question. Also how will I know when I need to replace the pads on my disc breaks?
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Saddle fiiting:
1) On line research and reviews.
2) Buy one on line, ride with it and hope it won't cut you in half.
3) Buy one from a good LBS which will provide a saddle fit service, ride with it and still hope it won't cut you in half.
4) Already have a well fitted saddle and make sure your next saddle is 'like for like' or that the lenght, width, shape (waved, flat, cutout etc) are as near as damn it.
5) Make sure your cycle shorts padding is up to scratch...the best fitting saddle in the world can't compensate for poor designed chamois padding (like riding 6 hours in bibs designed for 2-3hrs of butt pressure...).
6) Years of riding...sometimes you just know what will work for you just by looking at it...like some kind of Jedi Saddle Master...
7) Impulse buying a saddle because it's the lightest, most technically advanced perch...ever...and it will make your bike look 'way cool'...NO, just no...
Disk pad replacement:
Parktool recommend changing disk pads at 1mm and less of pad material...the thickness of three business cards apparently
1) On line research and reviews.
2) Buy one on line, ride with it and hope it won't cut you in half.
3) Buy one from a good LBS which will provide a saddle fit service, ride with it and still hope it won't cut you in half.
4) Already have a well fitted saddle and make sure your next saddle is 'like for like' or that the lenght, width, shape (waved, flat, cutout etc) are as near as damn it.
5) Make sure your cycle shorts padding is up to scratch...the best fitting saddle in the world can't compensate for poor designed chamois padding (like riding 6 hours in bibs designed for 2-3hrs of butt pressure...).
6) Years of riding...sometimes you just know what will work for you just by looking at it...like some kind of Jedi Saddle Master...
7) Impulse buying a saddle because it's the lightest, most technically advanced perch...ever...and it will make your bike look 'way cool'...NO, just no...
Disk pad replacement:
Parktool recommend changing disk pads at 1mm and less of pad material...the thickness of three business cards apparently
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Saddle fiiting:
1) On line research and reviews.
2) Buy one on line, ride with it and hope it won't cut you in half.
3) Buy one from a good LBS which will provide a saddle fit service, ride with it and still hope it won't cut you in half.
4) Already have a well fitted saddle and make sure your next saddle is 'like for like' or that the lenght, width, shape (waved, flat, cutout etc) are as near as damn it.
5) Make sure your cycle shorts padding is up to scratch...the best fitting saddle in the world can't compensate for poor designed chamois padding (like riding 6 hours in bibs designed for 2-3hrs of butt pressure...).
6) Years of riding...sometimes you just know what will work for you just by looking at it...like some kind of Jedi Saddle Master...
7) Impulse buying a saddle because it's the lightest, most technically advanced perch...ever...and it will make your bike look 'way cool'...NO, just no...
Disk pad replacement:
Parktool recommend changing disk pads at 1mm and less of pad material...the thickness of three business cards apparently
1) On line research and reviews.
2) Buy one on line, ride with it and hope it won't cut you in half.
3) Buy one from a good LBS which will provide a saddle fit service, ride with it and still hope it won't cut you in half.
4) Already have a well fitted saddle and make sure your next saddle is 'like for like' or that the lenght, width, shape (waved, flat, cutout etc) are as near as damn it.
5) Make sure your cycle shorts padding is up to scratch...the best fitting saddle in the world can't compensate for poor designed chamois padding (like riding 6 hours in bibs designed for 2-3hrs of butt pressure...).
6) Years of riding...sometimes you just know what will work for you just by looking at it...like some kind of Jedi Saddle Master...
7) Impulse buying a saddle because it's the lightest, most technically advanced perch...ever...and it will make your bike look 'way cool'...NO, just no...
Disk pad replacement:
Parktool recommend changing disk pads at 1mm and less of pad material...the thickness of three business cards apparently
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#24
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#25
Full Member
Mostly a curiosity question. When buying a new saddle how would you know if it’s the right fit?Weather it’s comfortable? Right saddle for the riding you do? The saddle that came with my bike is working out fine. I just thought I’d throw out the question. Also how will I know when I need to replace the pads on my disc breaks?
As for your disk brakes - you look down in between the disk and the shoe. You can see how much material is left. If not you may have to brush out the dirt to see. If they are Shimano they are easy to remove and inspect. And you should always keep a spare set f brake shoes around all of the time. Also keep track of the wear on the disk. While on road bikes you generally don't have a problem. On anything ridden off road you can get debris on the shoes that can cut almost through the disk pretty rapidly.