gil_00000

I'm not finished but it's a decent start. I have some handlebars ordered and some Sram Apex 2x10 brake/shifters waiting. Going to put some cushy Lizard Skin 3.2 tape one once I get everything dialed in.

Don't judge too much it't not done. I'm not sure how long the stem should be so I'm just using what I have. I don't really like the white stem on this bike. Pretty sure I'll stick with black or silver components. Also the seatpost is super high. Just wanted to get it on. I have pedals on a different bike I robbed the saddle from. I'm toying with getting a quill to threadless adapter from Velo Orange. They seem to have a much nicer and longer one that I currently have on it. or

Does anyone have experience with 1" threadless carbon forks? Wondering specifically about the Ritchey 1" threadless carbon fork with aluminum steertube.
https://us.ritcheylogic.com/us_en/bi...rbon-road-fork
I was going to order it through QBP but looking at the Ritchey website, it says the same fork only has clearance for 25mm tires. But QBP says clearance for 28mm. Anyone have this fork?


I'm open to other suggestions if anyone knows of a different option.

RiddleOfSteel

@gil_00000 It's a great start, especially with an RB-1 frame. 62cm I presume. Tall bikes FTW. Looks like you've got the quill stem conversion going on this--I very much approve of this! I'd keep the original fork because it matches, is original, and looks great! Velo Orange sells a polished/shiny silver threadless stem that would match your (extremely nice) Dura Ace seatpost. All bikes take a little bit of sorting out, not only in fit but also in color composition (if one is so inclined). When I do quill stem conversions, my stems are almost always black, and I find a matching black seatpost to go with it. I'll match saddle to bar tape as well.

If you have a bike or bikes that you love the fit on, take measurements of various parts/distances and copy them over to the RB-1. Mock up the current stem, the bars, and the hoods how you want them and then compare. That will let you know what to change to get it to that set 'ideal' setup. Stems obviously have reach differences, but so do handlebars (almost no one mentions or discusses this critical component) and brake/shifters.

The SRAM stuff will look sharp on that bike (black on red is always a winner). I roll Shimano or Campy like the other eleventy billion people in the world, but do fancy myself a carbon Red crankset (a generation or few back)--all that to say it looks like you're confident in the groupset and it should look and work well.

Black seatpost and stem in combo with a white saddle and bar tape would look devastating, IMO. But that's just one combo. It's hard to lose.

mhespenheide

It it, of course, your bike and you're welcome to do with it what you want to -- but I'd stick with the original Bridgestone steel fork. I think that year was made with Ishiwata 019 tubing in the fork, which should give a nice flex to absorb bumps from the road. The '91 model should easily fit 28's, and possibly even a touch larger. I've heard rumors of 28's on truly wide rims fitting (where the tire ends up a true 31-32mm in width).

If you're convinced you want to try carbon, I've got an older Kestrel fork that might work for you. It was off of a 60cm Paramount, so we'd have to check the steerer tube length if your Bridgestone is indeed 62cm. I think my local bike co-op also has a Time or Look 1" threadless carbon fork with alloy steerer, too; I'd have to check the length.

If yours is 62cm, it's one I'd be interested in if you ever decide to move it along.

sumgy

My thoughts are don't.
But I just hate the look of quill adapters and modern stems on retro race frames.

Oh, and Brooks saddles. :/

gil_00000

I was thinking of going the carbon fork route for a few reasons. I haven't ridden carbon. If I got a carbon fork I'd be able to run a threadless stem to clean the cockpit up. Also I've never switched to a carbon fork. At this point I've sought out projects that I haven't done before. Switching to a carbon fork is one I haven't done as of yet.

You are correct about 28mm tires fitting. They're tight but they fit. The brakes I have on there currently make it a tighter fit than the fork.

You are also correct about the Ishiwata tubing for the fork.

I got the Seam Apex because I was going to create a touring bike with new components but the frame was fighting me with the 27" to 700c conversion and the canti brakes. 10 speed Sram is the last (unless I'm mistaken) components where road and mountain shifters are compatible. I was going to get Apex front derailleur and shifters going with a mountain rear derailleur with a mountain cassette for easy loaded riding.

jbchybridrider 

gil_00000

I toyed around with getting a pair of handlebars that fit a quill stem. I will admit that would look the best. A nice simple quill stem looks great.

I'll get an adapter. The handlebars I ordered are 31.8. the Velo Orange one looks really clean, well as clean as an adapter can be. Nicely polished, matching adapter and stem.

I'm always for a Brooks saddle. I've had a ton of pressure and numbness issues with other saddles. But non of those issues while riding Brooks. I also really like the look.

jbchybridrider 

Nice bars for a quill. Only need to look for a Nito M106

familyguy

Australian built Paconi (SLX New) with 7800 gear, and 6700 hubs on black Sun CR18 rims.

mstateglfr 

https://www.amazon.com/innicycle-Con.../dp/B07KFYZPD2

Consider this instead of a threadless stem conversion. Ive used the VO quill conversion and it is the nicest of the quill conversions, but if you want a project and also want threadless- consider the innicycle. It gives you threadless without the look of quill conversions.
Plus, it is designed and sold by forum member joejack.
I am going to use one on my next road frame project this winter.

Cheaper than a Ritchey carbon fork, keeps the matching color fork, and gives you the same project as a carbon fork of replacing the headset.

mstateglfr 

Love the chromed stays and crankset. Super long rear derailleur arm...or may just seem like that due to the positioning?
red + chrome + black = cant stop looking!

mstateglfr 

Never heard of the brand. Thanks for giving me a topic to look up and read about! I always love learning about the local/regional brands around the world.

jbchybridrider 

Thanks, yeah it's a Sram Red long cage for 11-34 cassette. Hills are steep here.
I'm considering putting the original steel fork back on just for esthetics, a tough decision when the Easton rides much better.

jbchybridrider 

Australia made many fine bikes

seypat

Smoking!

seypat

Interesting set of rims there. I'm guessing there is not a paint scheme out there that they won't look good with.

jbchybridrider 

The famous Mavic sys wheels and not for all the right reasons thanks to one photo. Actually one of the finest wheels around imo...

seypat

They have some black, some white, some dark, some light, some shiny and some different colors. Checks all of the boxes. Like I said, you can put them with any color and they will look good.

mstateglfr 

Definitely not knocking the use of a long cage, it just stuck out when looking at the bike. Its probably the writing on it vs a blank black arm. Totally understand using gears that work.
The black fork looks good to me since the saddle, shifters, and tape are black. You have some black, some chrome and some red thats well distributed. And the gunmetal gray stem works too.

familyguy

Sadly I think Paconi itself is vanishing, as the owner/head builder (Kevin Wigham is the main name connected with the brand) has gone very quiet. There are few Australian marques that pop up now and then on here. A few of the builders are quite well renowned, certainly here, if not in other countries. Feel free to PM me if you want info, I'll see if I can direct you to other wiser heads or resources.

sumgy

Wasn't Paconi part of Cecil Walker?
There have also been Hoffy, Van Werkhoven, Kenevans, Euro, Beretto, Frezoni, Llewellyn, Malvern Star.
More recently there has been Devlin and Kumo.
Obviously a lot more than that, but those are who I can think of off the top of my head.

familyguy

Kevin may have built for Cecil Walker for a while. I think it's all a bit of a cosa nostra for Aussie builders. I've got a Paconi, Cecil Walker, Kenevans, and a Conceicao in the stable. Always keeping my eye open for a nice local frame (that fits me).

Meaning no disrespect to others who built for these makers under license or whatever agreements, the ones I can put names to are:
(* means still making stuff as far as I know)

Paconi (Kevin Wigham)
Cecil Walker (Cecil Walker)
Hillman (Gordon Hill)
Bundy (Bundy brothers, but pretty much every Aussie builder has built for them)
Clamont/Gefsco (Geoff Scott)
Europa (John Abeni)
Kenevans (Ken Evans)*
Beretto (Brett Richardson)
Euro (Brian Hayes)
Frezoni (Joe Cosgrove)
Hoffy (Eric Hendren)
Baum (Darren Baum)*
Van Werkhoven (Andrew Van Werkhoven)
Llewellyn (Darrell McCulloch)*
Kumo (Keith Marshall)*
Kypo/le Kypo (Rob Kypriotis)
Conceicao/Albion Cycles (Frank Conceicao, but all built by others under his name I believe)
SorenSon (?)
Ciombola (Michael Abel/Wayne Roberts)
Wayne Roberts (Wayne Roberts)
Malvern Star (everyone and anyone, even carbon of late)

Tamari (?)

Plus there's a bunch of small volume builders doing awesome stuff. A whole slew of Aussie names have come and gone. This is by no means even close to complete!

sumgy

My understanding was that Hoffy, Van Werkhoven and Tom Wallace used to all work together in some ways.
I had a Van Werkhoven track frame and it had Hoffy stamped into the BB shell.

I had an interesting visit to Joe's shop. He straightened out the fork on my Concorde.
I reckon I was there for about 2 hours for him to do 15 minutes work and he then charged me $75.

chainwhip

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/...994992312.html

Frame looks bigger than a 56.
Odd front fender.

Image is a screenshot:

ollo_ollo

Front fender results of a cut to fit for maximum clearance. Cut off piece is attached in various ways to its position in front of brake caliper. Some dislike the result & fenders (with or w/o tip) end up in the used, cutrate stuff. I have a couple cut-off, plastic fronts from a free, take-off pile. Also paid a bargain price for a set of Giles Berthaud SS fenders with extra, unsightly, 1/4" holes. A failed attempt to fit a 700c set to 650b wheels. They looked great on my Miata Seven Ten commuter. Don