Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions

Old 09-21-20, 10:47 AM
  #6851  
ofajen
Cheerfully low end
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 668
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 195 Post(s)
Liked 270 Times in 178 Posts
My RockHopper got new bar tape and switched back to aero levers over the weekend. I did a long ride yesterday and everything worked great! 👍





Otto
ofajen is offline  
Likes For ofajen:
Old 09-22-20, 10:28 PM
  #6852  
tFUnK
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 2,699

Bikes: Too many bikes, too little time to ride

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked 47 Times in 42 Posts
Originally Posted by suttonjp View Post
I've read in a couple of these threads that "the cockpit feels a bit cramped." If you've converted a mtb to drop bars, do you find that to be the case? The reason I'm asking is that I have a 1990 Hardrock that I'd like to convert to drops, but the frame is too big. At least, as a mountain bike, it's too big. (It's a 20 frame and I really need a 16 or 17") However...in a rode bike, 20" is the perfect size. So, if I convert to drop bars, will the too large mountain bike frame feel about right as a road/gravel'ish bike? I'm wondering if, instead of feeling cramped I would feel comfortable. Thoughts?
Also wondering about the fit but I'd think it'd be the opposite, that the top tube would be too long.
tFUnK is offline  
Old 09-23-20, 12:04 AM
  #6853  
BCATC
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 93
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 43 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 7 Posts
Originally Posted by suttonjp View Post
I've read in a couple of these threads that "the cockpit feels a bit cramped." If you've converted a mtb to drop bars, do you find that to be the case? The reason I'm asking is that I have a 1990 Hardrock that I'd like to convert to drops, but the frame is too big. At least, as a mountain bike, it's too big. (It's a 20 frame and I really need a 16 or 17") However...in a rode bike, 20" is the perfect size. So, if I convert to drop bars, will the too large mountain bike frame feel about right as a road/gravel'ish bike? I'm wondering if, instead of feeling cramped I would feel comfortable. Thoughts?
I have a size "Large" 1993 stumpjumper, top tube measured at roughly 58-59cm when I normally ride 55-56cm bikes. It took time to figure out how to approach the reach because I felt stretched out on it despite having a long torso. I use a 80mm 25 deg stem with flared drop bars at pretty tall stem height to make it feel sort of comfortable, but I feel aches after around 2 hours of riding. Not sure how to proceed with it yet. I had a size "medium" 1995 stumpjumper that I sold, and even then I think the top tube measured at 57-58cm. Maybe having to have a higher seatpost height would've decreased reach?
BCATC is offline  
Old 09-23-20, 06:18 AM
  #6854  
fishboat
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 1,053

Bikes: Lemond '01 Maillot Jaune, Lemond '02 Victoire, Lemond '03 Poprad, Lemond '03 Wayzata drop bar conv(Poprad), '79 AcerMex Windsor Carrera Professional(purchased new), '88 GT Tequesta(purchased new), '01 Bianchi Grizzly, 1993 Trek 970 drop bar conv

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 388 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 268 Times in 159 Posts
Originally Posted by BCATC View Post
I have a size "Large" 1993 stumpjumper, top tube measured at roughly 58-59cm when I normally ride 55-56cm bikes. It took time to figure out how to approach the reach because I felt stretched out on it despite having a long torso. I use a 80mm 25 deg stem with flared drop bars at pretty tall stem height to make it feel sort of comfortable, but I feel aches after around 2 hours of riding. Not sure how to proceed with it yet. I had a size "medium" 1995 stumpjumper that I sold, and even then I think the top tube measured at 57-58cm. Maybe having to have a higher seatpost height would've decreased reach?
Seatpost/saddle fore-aft isn't a variable for adjusting reach. The saddle/post gets adjusted in to fit your legs/knees to the pedals. After that, it/they become a constant relative to the front end of the cockpit.

You need to research vintage frame geometries and look for shorter top tubes..obvious, I know. They do exist. Take a look at the top tube length of the 1990-1993(4?) Trek mountain bikes, specifically the 900 series, though maybe the 800 series too(haven't looked). relative to TT length of the late '90s.

I converted a Trek 970 (haven't posted pics yet) to a dropbar touring bike..fits great.,,very similar to my road bikes. We just completed a 275 mile tour (6 days)..no fatigue from a bad fit.
fishboat is offline  
Old 09-23-20, 06:46 AM
  #6855  
fishboat
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 1,053

Bikes: Lemond '01 Maillot Jaune, Lemond '02 Victoire, Lemond '03 Poprad, Lemond '03 Wayzata drop bar conv(Poprad), '79 AcerMex Windsor Carrera Professional(purchased new), '88 GT Tequesta(purchased new), '01 Bianchi Grizzly, 1993 Trek 970 drop bar conv

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 388 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 268 Times in 159 Posts
Originally Posted by suttonjp View Post
I've read in a couple of these threads that "the cockpit feels a bit cramped." If you've converted a mtb to drop bars, do you find that to be the case? The reason I'm asking is that I have a 1990 Hardrock that I'd like to convert to drops, but the frame is too big. At least, as a mountain bike, it's too big. (It's a 20 frame and I really need a 16 or 17") However...in a rode bike, 20" is the perfect size. So, if I convert to drop bars, will the too large mountain bike frame feel about right as a road/gravel'ish bike? I'm wondering if, instead of feeling cramped I would feel comfortable. Thoughts?
Road (rode) bike sizing and mountain bike frame sizing are different scales..usually by 3-4 inches.

Nothing magical happens when you do the conversion. Measure the frame stack and reach of your bike and also, more importantly, the stack and reach of your bike's current handlebars. Then look up the reach of some drop bars you'd like (most bars will have a diagram with reach, drop..etc.. indicated). Next, use this calculator:

Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net

to get an idea what adjustments to the stack and reach you can reasonably make through a stem and/or headtube-stem extender. Also, do some research on what threaded, or threadless stems are available so you have an idea what to plug into the calculator.

The drop bar reach will add to the overall handlebar reach of the finished bike..all the major data on how a conversion will turn out is available to you before you begin a conversion..either in available stems, extenders, or dropbars in combination with the calculator above. The only unknown is how the finished conversion will feel and whether it's inside your acceptable bike stack and reach ranges.

The "cramped cockpit" comments may have been from someone who has a bike-frame one size too small in the effort to get a shorter top tube. Since the conversion increases the handlebar reach, they're hoping the cramped feeling will expand into their comfort zone. I had a one-size-too-small mountain bike that was to be converted to drop bars..it was too small overall, and wasn't going to get better (do the numbers), so I sold it and got the usual size that fits me.
fishboat is offline  
Likes For fishboat:
Old 09-23-20, 06:49 AM
  #6856  
fishboat
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 1,053

Bikes: Lemond '01 Maillot Jaune, Lemond '02 Victoire, Lemond '03 Poprad, Lemond '03 Wayzata drop bar conv(Poprad), '79 AcerMex Windsor Carrera Professional(purchased new), '88 GT Tequesta(purchased new), '01 Bianchi Grizzly, 1993 Trek 970 drop bar conv

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 388 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 268 Times in 159 Posts
Originally Posted by due ruote View Post
I don't set mine quite as high as that, but it's not that far off. As far as the Midge bars go, I love them and they are one of the classic dirt drop bars, with a very shallow drop. The usual advice is to set them up so the drop is the default position. I prefer mine rotated from what's shown there so the drop is closer to horizontal.

That is a hip-looking ride! Nice job on it.
fishboat is offline  
Old 09-23-20, 11:10 AM
  #6857  
dickbandit 
Senior Member
 
dickbandit's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 75

Bikes: 1980 Peugeot PFN-10, 1989 Bridgestone MB-3, 1988 Univega Alpina Uno, 1974 Velosolex Saint Tropez, 1995 Trek 830, 1986 Lotus Odyssey, 1987 Schwinn Mirada, 1987 Raleigh Elkhorn

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Liked 80 Times in 28 Posts
Yet another update on the Univega Alpina Uno. This bike has been getting a lot of mileage lately and I felt it was time to give it some well-deserved upgrades.

I built a new wheelset with 36 hole Sun Rhyno Lites laced to an 8/9 speed LX hub in the rear and a Kasai dynamo hub in the front. Stock wheel was a 6 speed so I had to cold set the dropouts from 130 to 135.

Changed the rear mech to a modern Deore to handle the 8 speed cassette.

Wired up a Busch and Muller IQ-x headlight and a secula plus tail light.

Threw on some SKS fenders for the fall and winter. Outfitted the front with a Velo Orange mudflap.

I'm really loving where this is right now. No build is ever "done"... but this feels damn close.


dickbandit is offline  
Likes For dickbandit:
Old 09-23-20, 11:17 AM
  #6858  
wintermute
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 440

Bikes: 1980 Motobecane Grand Jubile, 1986 Kuwahara ATB, 2006 Bianchi Volpe, 2016 Salsa Fargo

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked 23 Times in 11 Posts
Like others have said, take a bike you're already comfortable on, measure the stack and the "cockpit" reach (saddle to hand position on the bars). Now, pull up the specs on 1990 Hardrocks (shouldn't be hard to find), and do a lot of trigonometry. Using the head tube and seat tube angles, and top tube and seat tube lengths, calculate how much reach and stack the frame itself gets you. Figure out how high your saddle will ride above that and calculate the additional length in x- (reach) and y-dimensions. add those stacks and reaches together, and subtract them from your "comfortable" stack and reach. Now you know how much reach and elevation you need to make up with the stem. Start looking at the specs for different stems, the most important being quill length to max insertion, angle, and length. Play around with those until it matches up with your comfortable bike. Trigonometry, trigonometry, trigonometry!

-This coming from the guy with the ugliest bike on the board that needed around 9" bar elevation above the frame!
wintermute is offline  
Old 09-23-20, 01:02 PM
  #6859  
fishboat
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 1,053

Bikes: Lemond '01 Maillot Jaune, Lemond '02 Victoire, Lemond '03 Poprad, Lemond '03 Wayzata drop bar conv(Poprad), '79 AcerMex Windsor Carrera Professional(purchased new), '88 GT Tequesta(purchased new), '01 Bianchi Grizzly, 1993 Trek 970 drop bar conv

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 388 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 268 Times in 159 Posts
Originally Posted by wintermute View Post
Like others have said, take a bike you're already comfortable on, measure the stack and the "cockpit" reach (saddle to hand position on the bars). Now, pull up the specs on 1990 Hardrocks (shouldn't be hard to find), and do a lot of trigonometry. Using the head tube and seat tube angles, and top tube and seat tube lengths, calculate how much reach and stack the frame itself gets you. Figure out how high your saddle will ride above that and calculate the additional length in x- (reach) and y-dimensions. add those stacks and reaches together, and subtract them from your "comfortable" stack and reach. Now you know how much reach and elevation you need to make up with the stem. Start looking at the specs for different stems, the most important being quill length to max insertion, angle, and length. Play around with those until it matches up with your comfortable bike. Trigonometry, trigonometry, trigonometry!

-This coming from the guy with the ugliest bike on the board that needed around 9" bar elevation above the frame!
Lest we scare anyone off here..working up a trig solution is one successful path, but not the only path. While I'm comfortable with trig(minor in math), I didn't need it to make an accurate estimate of what would be needed to reach a comfortable bike. The process I described above only requires a few simple measurements and the web stem calculator.
fishboat is offline  
Old 09-23-20, 03:23 PM
  #6860  
mattk42
Senior Member
 
mattk42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Oregon
Posts: 149
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 18 Times in 9 Posts
I just kinda went for it and seemed to luck out. The Rockhopper I bought is a few inches smaller than my road bike frame. With a short 30 degree riser stem, I have a pretty small saddle to bar drop and it's quite comfortable. But, had I been more familiar with bike frame geometry I likely would have gone through the steps to ensure I could have a reasonable setup.
mattk42 is offline  
Old 09-24-20, 07:37 AM
  #6861  
ZudeJammer
Senior Member
 
ZudeJammer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 146

Bikes: fuji touring v, motobecane grand touring 1980s, stumpjumper ‘93

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 41 Post(s)
Liked 49 Times in 30 Posts



18" Stumpjumper Pro 1992, top tube 22", got rid of the old Deore LX 175mm 48-38-28, brakes are setup pretty tight right now and the indexing is working great (thanks xenologer for the tip! I didn't even need to file anything down: https://www.bikeforums.net/14179409-post9.html). I'm 5'9.75" and the bike really feels much more upright and closer but I just built it last night so need more time to test it. Stems at full extension in both pics. Shoutout to RJ the Bike Guy and BikemanforU, I could not have done it without their help.
Crust Towel Rack 645mm $120
Stronglight Impact 165mm 48-38-25 $105
UN-55 73x113 $30
Nitto MT-10 100mm $70
MKS UB-Lite $37
Soma Striated Bar Tape $16
Sunlight Cable Hanger $10
Cane Creek hoods $11
Dia-Compe Red Dot with Safety Levers, used $10
Sunour α-3000, used $15
+ some cables and housings
Total = quite a bit more than I paid for the bike

Last edited by ZudeJammer; 09-25-20 at 08:22 PM.
ZudeJammer is offline  
Likes For ZudeJammer:
Old 09-24-20, 08:35 AM
  #6862  
suttonjp
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Thanks for this reply (and the link to the calculator). Very helpful.
suttonjp is offline  
Old 09-24-20, 10:11 AM
  #6863  
Padgett
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Texas+Mississippi
Posts: 62

Bikes: 1985 Fat Chance Competition, 90s Kona Cinder Cone, 1973 Schwinn Le Tour

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Liked 56 Times in 21 Posts
Fat Drop Bar


My current college commuter. Finally made the conversion. Loving this bike. Absolutely eats up the gravel around here. (bar end shifters, FD & RD are incoming. plz do not look at my zip tied thumbie)
Padgett is offline  
Old 09-24-20, 11:16 AM
  #6864  
ofajen
Cheerfully low end
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 668
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 195 Post(s)
Liked 270 Times in 178 Posts
Originally Posted by Padgett View Post

My current college commuter. Finally made the conversion. Loving this bike. Absolutely eats up the gravel around here. (bar end shifters, FD & RD are incoming. plz do not look at my zip tied thumbie)
Nice tires! 👍 I run Race Kings on my drop bar RockHopper when conditions warrant.

Otto
ofajen is offline  
Old 09-24-20, 12:16 PM
  #6865  
bOsscO
bOsscO
 
bOsscO's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 509

Bikes: 2015 Norco Search S1, 2012 Cervelo R5, 93 Mongoose IBOC COMP

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 201 Post(s)
Liked 222 Times in 135 Posts
Originally Posted by Padgett View Post

My current college commuter. Finally made the conversion. Loving this bike. Absolutely eats up the gravel around here. (bar end shifters, FD & RD are incoming. plz do not look at my zip tied thumbie)
Looks rad.
bOsscO is offline  
Likes For bOsscO:
Old 09-24-20, 12:37 PM
  #6866  
Padgett
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Texas+Mississippi
Posts: 62

Bikes: 1985 Fat Chance Competition, 90s Kona Cinder Cone, 1973 Schwinn Le Tour

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Liked 56 Times in 21 Posts
Originally Posted by ofajen View Post
Nice tires! 👍 I run Race Kings on my drop bar RockHopper when conditions warrant.

Otto
They're phenomenal tires for the money, IMO! is your rockhopper in this thread?
Padgett is offline  
Old 09-24-20, 01:08 PM
  #6867  
dunkleosteus
on the wheels of steel
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: the LBC
Posts: 56

Bikes: yes

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Liked 32 Times in 14 Posts
Making some progress on my 84 Trek 850 build! It started as just a frame and fork and I finally got it to a state that I can ride it around the block. I did this with some temporary parts so I could test the fit and because I was impatient. The seat tube is about 54cm and the top tube is 58cm. I tried to reduce the reach with a short reach stem and bars. I think it could be improved with a zero setback seatpost (holy seat tube angle batman!) but it feels pretty good so far. The ride is very very smooth and surprisingly zippy on these big tires. I can see how this thing would make a fun (though terrifying) mountain bike.

The full build will eventually include gears and two entire brakes!


dunkleosteus is offline  
Likes For dunkleosteus:
Old 09-24-20, 01:58 PM
  #6868  
bOsscO
bOsscO
 
bOsscO's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 509

Bikes: 2015 Norco Search S1, 2012 Cervelo R5, 93 Mongoose IBOC COMP

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 201 Post(s)
Liked 222 Times in 135 Posts
Originally Posted by dunkleosteus View Post
Making some progress on my 84 Trek 850 build! It started as just a frame and fork and I finally got it to a state that I can ride it around the block. I did this with some temporary parts so I could test the fit and because I was impatient. The seat tube is about 54cm and the top tube is 58cm. I tried to reduce the reach with a short reach stem and bars. I think it could be improved with a zero setback seatpost (holy seat tube angle batman!) but it feels pretty good so far. The ride is very very smooth and surprisingly zippy on these big tires. I can see how this thing would make a fun (though terrifying) mountain bike.

The full build will eventually include gears and two entire brakes!


Another great build sporting these Maxxis DTH tires. I've been trying to order a set and they're either sold out or super pricey.
bOsscO is offline  
Old 09-24-20, 02:16 PM
  #6869  
dunkleosteus
on the wheels of steel
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: the LBC
Posts: 56

Bikes: yes

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Liked 32 Times in 14 Posts
Originally Posted by bOsscO View Post
Another great build sporting these Maxxis DTH tires. I've been trying to order a set and they're either sold out or super pricey.
Thanks! Yeah it's hard to find tires these days. I think you can find these in 26x2.3 around for ~ 40 each, which is a decent price for any folding tire and a lot cheaper than RTPs. Still pricey, but I consider them a key part of the build.
dunkleosteus is offline  
Old 09-24-20, 03:20 PM
  #6870  
due ruote 
Senior Member
 
due ruote's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,329
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 766 Post(s)
Liked 254 Times in 175 Posts
Originally Posted by bOsscO View Post
Another great build sporting these Maxxis DTH tires. I've been trying to order a set and they're either sold out or super pricey.
I have a pr on the way from Bikeinn. $74 for the pr with shipping, which didnít seem terrible to me. I ordered black but I think they also had skinwall.
due ruote is offline  
Likes For due ruote:
Old 09-24-20, 04:05 PM
  #6871  
bOsscO
bOsscO
 
bOsscO's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 509

Bikes: 2015 Norco Search S1, 2012 Cervelo R5, 93 Mongoose IBOC COMP

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 201 Post(s)
Liked 222 Times in 135 Posts
Originally Posted by due ruote View Post
I have a pr on the way from Bikeinn. $74 for the pr with shipping, which didnít seem terrible to me. I ordered black but I think they also had skinwall.
Dude you are my SAVIOUR!!! I just ordered a pair (26"X2.15" skinwalls) from BikeInn for $86 shipping included. Should arrive mid-October.
bOsscO is offline  
Likes For bOsscO:
Old 09-24-20, 04:39 PM
  #6872  
due ruote 
Senior Member
 
due ruote's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,329
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 766 Post(s)
Liked 254 Times in 175 Posts
Originally Posted by bOsscO View Post
Dude you are my SAVIOUR!!! I just ordered a pair (26"X2.15" skinwalls) from BikeInn for $86 shipping included. Should arrive mid-October.
Well cool; I hope we both like them!
due ruote is offline  
Old 09-24-20, 05:54 PM
  #6873  
fishboat
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 1,053

Bikes: Lemond '01 Maillot Jaune, Lemond '02 Victoire, Lemond '03 Poprad, Lemond '03 Wayzata drop bar conv(Poprad), '79 AcerMex Windsor Carrera Professional(purchased new), '88 GT Tequesta(purchased new), '01 Bianchi Grizzly, 1993 Trek 970 drop bar conv

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 388 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 268 Times in 159 Posts
Originally Posted by due ruote View Post
Well cool; I hope we both like them!
PR? I got nuthin..
fishboat is offline  
Old 09-24-20, 07:34 PM
  #6874  
due ruote 
Senior Member
 
due ruote's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,329
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 766 Post(s)
Liked 254 Times in 175 Posts
Originally Posted by fishboat View Post
PR? I got nuthin..
pair
due ruote is offline  
Old 09-25-20, 05:57 AM
  #6875  
fishboat
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 1,053

Bikes: Lemond '01 Maillot Jaune, Lemond '02 Victoire, Lemond '03 Poprad, Lemond '03 Wayzata drop bar conv(Poprad), '79 AcerMex Windsor Carrera Professional(purchased new), '88 GT Tequesta(purchased new), '01 Bianchi Grizzly, 1993 Trek 970 drop bar conv

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 388 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 268 Times in 159 Posts
Originally Posted by due ruote View Post
pair
Ah..I knew it was obvious, just was drawing a blank.

I'm tempted to pick up a PR of the DTH tires, though their website is confusing. On the blackwalls they list the wheel size as 26-650". On the gumwall page they say the wheel size is both 26-650" and Etrto: 52/54-559(which should be the correct size). Confusing..
fishboat is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.