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Eradicating bed bugs and roaches in residences

Old 10-07-20, 11:50 PM
  #51  
canklecat
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Roaches, particularly German cockroaches, are "smart" and learn to avoid insecticides and baits. Several years ago fipronil and indoxacarb worked well with good residual effect -- babies eat the feces from the adults and the dead adults that died from the baits, and died in turn. It worked in the gel injectors used by professional exterminators.

Over time they learned to avoid the gels, but the roaches could be tricked by mixing it with other baits. They love dry cat food so I'd crush up the cat food dropped on the floor (my cats won't touch any food that isn't in their dish, so I save it for bait). I'd mix up the crushed dry cat food and fipronil or indoxacarb gels, put it between a couple of paper plates stapled and taped together, with tiny openings cut into the paper plates, just large enough for the small German cockroaches. I slid those under the fridge and cabinets where the cats couldn't reach.

That worked for awhile, but not this year. They've learned to avoid indoxacarb and fipronil completely. Exterminators report that some roach communities learn to avoid other baits -- peanut butter, sweets, etc.

This year I've had good results from Raid Double Control Small Roach Baits and the included egg killing packets. The avermectin B1 seems to have good residual effect and after a couple of weeks I didn't see any traces.

But in an apartment complex it's a non-stop battle. Especially this year. Due to the pandemic and our high risk tenancy (everyone here is over age 55), routine pest control has been suspended and they're responding only to requests from tenants. Some folks will never volunteer for pest control and that's where the problem starts. Especially with older and disabled folks who have limited mobility and energy and simply let housekeeping and pest problems slide.

So besides baiting my apartment I slide some bait traps into the hanging ceiling in the common hallway.

For years I've also used boric acid mixed with powdered sugar. Roaches groom themselves constantly, especially their antennae. That's how they ingest the boric acid, which is abrasive to their innards. The powdered sugar is an extra incentive to groom their feet and antennae. Non-toxic, a good long term solution, but slow acting. It can take up to a month to see any real improvement, but it works for a long time -- years in some cases -- as long as the boric acid dust isn't covered by household dust, or vacuumed up.

Same with the Cimexa amorphous silica gel dust I've mentioned before, which is most effective on bed bugs but somewhat effective on other critters. It's non-toxic and lasts a long time, but eventually household dust and vacuuming can reduce the effectiveness. I recently reapplied it for the first time since around 2014-2015. The only problem is it's a mild respiratory irritant and makes one of my cats sneeze and get the sniffles, but she gets over it soon.
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Old 10-08-20, 12:06 AM
  #52  
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You could try something like this...

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Old 10-08-20, 03:20 PM
  #53  
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Bifenthrin 7.9 works as a barrier/perimeter treatment and is rated for bedbugs as well. I use a formulation called Menace 7.9, but I believe it requires a pesticide license, though I may be mistaken. There are others that do not. It worked great for the occasional cockroach coming in from neighbors until I got lazy and stopped applying it. I started back up and haven't seen one in awhile, so knock on wood, I think it works.

Apply it with a brush or hand sprayer if you have one. Set it for a coarse spray, and apply to every baseboard, opening in walls, windows, doors, etc.

Also rated for use with bedbugs on anything short of clothes and mattresses, but it is recommended to use other products in conjunction with bifenthrin. It just says "apply thoroughly," to bed frames, dressers, closets, carpet, crevices, etc.
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Old 10-08-20, 03:35 PM
  #54  
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I wanted to mention that I'm using glue traps to catch the last of the stragglers. They have been holed up without food or water for a week, and each one deciding when to make their last desperate move for the sink for some cool cool water. It's kinda sad to see how tenacious these little suckers are. But scary too, that they're so hard to get rid of, even once they've been sealed in and have no escape and no retreat.

I think glue traps will be good to monitor if they ever come back, but if my caulking skills were good enough, I won't be seeing any more of them (I've said that 35 or 40 times in the last couple weeks).
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Old 10-09-20, 07:02 PM
  #55  
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For mice I've done some research with different styles of kill traps, rotating them every day, sprung or not.


And the ones I've always had the better luck with are the low-framed wire-hammer types like this, either wood or plastic. I like to pull the plastic cover off the top rail of the wire-hammer for my little theory that it makes it more noticeable to the mouse when it's there.


They are more likely to work if mice just run across them as they sit low to the ground and have the large trip-tab. I find the paths to their food source, usually along a wall. I try to keep some distance from the likely vicinity of the nests to lessen the chances witnessing of the kill and I'll empty them as soon as I hear it sprung and check them often. I face it towards the wall because the leverage strength is closer to the spring, thus more holding power on the sides. Plus the run across kills are more likely to work.

It's my firm belief that some of the plastic traps with the serrated teeth are impressive looking to the buyer but to the mouse as well. In fact they look like a mouth full of teeth when they're set. I've never had nearly as much luck with those.

I think the dark colors do better but it might not hurt to mix the colors up as being different looking to mice that have witnessed kills. Not as much evidence to support that theory but i suspect it might be somewhat a factor.

Of course keeping dishes washed and food put away will do wonders at prevention but not everybody is diligent at that as am I.

Edit:

The little dollar store wooden traps use different gages of spring material sometimes, probably depending on what they have available. So you'll get some escapes from some of those. Plus they come apart after as little as two settings sometimes.




So if you're going to go to the trouble might as well invest in some Victors like this easy set model with the bigger trip-tab. Of course it's harder to wash the blood off the wooden ones but you shouldn't have to use them for that long on lesser infestations. I like baiting with raw lean bacon or raw lean bacon set in peanut butter for the plastic ones.

Last edited by Zinger; 10-10-20 at 01:38 AM.
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Old 10-10-20, 03:07 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by no motor? View Post
Are you in the interzone?
Where's that at? East Texas?

They got big waterbugs down there that look like roaches but about 3 times as big. They try to crawl upside down on the ceiling but fall off on you in bed while you're sleeping. That's when I be jumping out of bed flapping my arms and s**t.
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Old 10-10-20, 03:23 AM
  #57  
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As the locals probably say, "You'll get used to it."
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Old 10-10-20, 03:28 AM
  #58  
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I think the Interzone is a wormhole somewhere between Tangiers and New Orleans.
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Old 10-10-20, 04:07 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by canklecat View Post
I think the Interzone is a wormhole somewhere between Tangiers and New Orleans.


Likely for fishin'.
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Old 10-10-20, 11:43 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by canklecat View Post
I think the Interzone is a wormhole somewhere between Tangiers and New Orleans.
Burroughs worked as an exterminator for a while, that must have been the inspiration for some of the bugs in his books.
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