Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Raleigh All Steel Sport?

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Raleigh All Steel Sport?

Old 01-30-20, 01:37 PM
  #1  
ChickenKev
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Raleigh All Steel Sport?

Hi,

Iíve recently acquired a Raleigh All Steel touring bike but Iím struggling to find the exact make and model. Hereís what I know so far:

Sturmey Archer three speed, dated 1959
Raleigh All Steel frame
Rod brakes
Dynamo lights and front hub
Semi covered chain guard

I canít see a frame number, and a lot of the information online seems to contradict each other. For example, I believe the Superbe came with dynamo lights, but mine hasnít got a fork lock, and the chain guard isnít the full covered one.

Can anyone on here shed some more light on which bike it might be? Iím going round and round on google but never quite finding the right answer!

Much appreciated,

Kev
ChickenKev is offline  
Old 01-30-20, 01:58 PM
  #2  
USAZorro
SeŮor Member
 
USAZorro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Hardy, VA
Posts: 16,911

Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs

Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1022 Post(s)
Liked 296 Times in 207 Posts
Raleigh produced a bunch of different models, and used "Sports" as part of the name on many of them. Even if the bike were kept original, figuring out exactly what you have could be a daunting task, as the basic Sports was produced for many years and for many different markets.

If you can take pictures and provide a link to them (as opposed to posting them - which requires 10 posts) it would give people something more to go on.
__________________
In search of what to search for.
USAZorro is offline  
Likes For USAZorro:
Old 01-30-20, 02:08 PM
  #3  
Doohickie 
You gonna eat that?
 
Doohickie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Fort Worth, Texas Church of Hopeful Uncertainty
Posts: 14,714

Bikes: 1966 Raleigh DL-1 Tourist, 1973 Schwinn Varsity, 1983 Raleigh Marathon, 1994 Nishiki Sport XRS

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 152 Post(s)
Liked 40 Times in 25 Posts
Does this help? EDIT: Just noticed, lack of rod brakes.


__________________
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.


Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."

Last edited by Doohickie; 01-30-20 at 02:12 PM.
Doohickie is offline  
Old 01-30-20, 02:38 PM
  #4  
dweenk 
Senior Member
 
dweenk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,638

Bikes: 1972 Fuji S-10-S,1970 Raleigh Sports, and more

Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 762 Post(s)
Liked 155 Times in 114 Posts
You probably have a Raleigh DL-1. Does it look like this?
__________________
"The man who does not read has no advantage over the man who cannot read." ĖMark Twain
dweenk is offline  
Likes For dweenk:
Old 01-30-20, 02:40 PM
  #5  
kohl57
Senior Member
 
kohl57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 108

Bikes: https://www.ipernity.com/doc/286349/album/550107

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 23 Times in 14 Posts
Sounds like a Raleigh Dawn model

All brazed up frame and 26" wheels, hockey stick chainguard and rod brakes



Peter Kohler
Washington DC USA
kohl57 is offline  
Likes For kohl57:
Old 01-30-20, 02:56 PM
  #6  
ChickenKev
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Thanks for the amazing help so far! I don't think I can post photos yet, as a new member sadly!

Same chain guard as the Sports Light and Dawn, rod brakes and lights like the DL-1!
ChickenKev is offline  
Old 01-30-20, 03:06 PM
  #7  
kohl57
Senior Member
 
kohl57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 108

Bikes: https://www.ipernity.com/doc/286349/album/550107

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 23 Times in 14 Posts
It's pretty easy to discount if it's a DL-1.... does it have 28" wheels? If it doesn't, it's not.

Peter Kohler
Washington DC USA
kohl57 is offline  
Old 01-30-20, 03:13 PM
  #8  
ChickenKev
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
26 inch wheels, which I think makes the Dawn the closest, but with the Dynohub lights
ChickenKev is offline  
Old 02-01-20, 02:45 PM
  #9  
ChickenKev
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Iím having fun stripping this down, and trying to get the dynamo lights working!

Iím confident I can get the bike in working order, but if Iím looking to do this bike up to eventually sell on, do I give the mudguards a respray, as they are in poor condition? I donít want to respray the frame, as it would lose the stickers.
ChickenKev is offline  
Likes For ChickenKev:
Old 02-01-20, 03:41 PM
  #10  
USAZorro
SeŮor Member
 
USAZorro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Hardy, VA
Posts: 16,911

Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs

Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1022 Post(s)
Liked 296 Times in 207 Posts
One thing to consider is that during this era, Raleigh offered options to customers who ordered bicycles. The dyno-hub could have been an upgrade that was requested at the time of purchase, or it could have been something done later on. I do think the Dawn model seems a pretty good fit, though apparently you see "Sport" or "Sports" somewhere on a decal, and that has not yet been accounted for.
__________________
In search of what to search for.
USAZorro is offline  
Old 02-01-20, 05:42 PM
  #11  
BigChief 
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,226
Mentioned: 102 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1292 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 82 Times in 68 Posts
We roadster enthusiasts tend to prefer our bikes with original finishes whenever possible. Many times a compounding and wax will bring up much of the lost gloss. If there is serious rust issues with the mudguards, what I do with black enameled bikes is scrape off any loose rust. Not to bare metal. Just enough to smooth it out a bit. Then I'll touch up the spot with an enamel paint like Testors or Rustoleum and blend in the repair by compounding the whole mudguard. The repairs are noticable, but don't jump out at you and you can preserve most of the original finish.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Likes For BigChief:
Old 02-01-20, 07:22 PM
  #12  
scarlson
Senior Member
 
scarlson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Medford MA
Posts: 1,209

Bikes: Ron Cooper touring, 1959 Jack Taylor 650b ladyback touring tandem, Vitus 979, Joe Bell painted Claud Butler Dalesman, Colin Laing curved tube tandem, heavily-Dilberted 1982 Trek 6xx, Renť Herse tandem

Mentioned: 43 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 525 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times in 371 Posts
Originally Posted by ChickenKev View Post
Iím having fun stripping this down, and trying to get the dynamo lights working!
Be careful if you intend to take apart the dynohub. St. Sheldon has a whole page on these, if you're interested. The main precaution you must take is never to separate the magnet from the armature - even for a few seconds - or it will lose its strength and the hub may no longer work.
scarlson is offline  
Old 02-01-20, 09:17 PM
  #13  
BigChief 
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,226
Mentioned: 102 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1292 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 82 Times in 68 Posts
I serviced my first dyno hub last year and found this video very helpful:
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 02-05-20, 03:28 PM
  #14  
ChickenKev
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Thanks again for all the replies. All the bits are now off the bike apart from the right hand crank due to a stubborn cotter pin. It's resisted my light taps so far, so I'm going to try and knock it out on the weekend once I can get it properly supported. Everything else came off really nicely - it's true what they say about build quality being a thing of the past!

First bits of chrome have been polished up, and they have come up lovely. A good wash and a compounding of the frame and mudguards next, though I get the feeling the dirt might be hiding more rust that I'd like!

Still can't post photos I'm afraid, but as soon as I can, I will!
ChickenKev is offline  
Old 03-08-20, 09:58 AM
  #15  
ChickenKev
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Got the crank off, all it took was a little supported tap, which I was really surprised about!

The frame was a little more pitted than I would have liked, so I gave some of it a touch up with paint to keep the rust at bay, but kept all the stickers original. The mudguards and chain guard both needed a respray.

Most of the parts have gone back on now, including new cotter pins, which were dead easy! The front rod brakes were a pain as the rods had bent, so thereís very little adjustment, but I love the action of them once theyíre set up!

Got some wiring to do on the Dynohub, and waiting on a new tire, and then itís time to hit the road to make sure nothing falls off! Iím looking to sell the bike on eventually, but Iíve learnt so much, itís been a great experience!

Photos to come once Iím verified!
ChickenKev is offline  
Old 03-08-20, 10:04 AM
  #16  
CO_Hoya 
SeŮor Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 860

Bikes: Yes

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 215 Post(s)
Liked 144 Times in 82 Posts
Pic assist:



Nice
CO_Hoya is online now  
Old 03-08-20, 10:08 AM
  #17  
ChickenKev
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Thanks for that! That was her as just bought, with all the dirt and rust and spiders webs! Hopefully gets some new photos up soon!
ChickenKev is offline  
Old 03-08-20, 10:11 AM
  #18  
ChickenKev
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Oh forgot to say, the rims were of mixed success. Used a light steel wool attachment on a dremel multi tool, which took the rust off amazingly, even though I did go through three attachments!

The inner rims (where the braking surface is) were much trickier, so they are still looking a bit rough
ChickenKev is offline  
Old 03-08-20, 08:06 PM
  #19  
BigChief 
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,226
Mentioned: 102 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1292 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 82 Times in 68 Posts
Originally Posted by ChickenKev View Post
Oh forgot to say, the rims were of mixed success. Used a light steel wool attachment on a dremel multi tool, which took the rust off amazingly, even though I did go through three attachments!

The inner rims (where the braking surface is) were much trickier, so they are still looking a bit rough
I like this bike. The general scruffyness doesn't bother me a bit. Judging from the top tube mounted guide wheel and the lug shapes, I'll say it's from the late 50s. Check the rear hub for a date. What I do with rims like this, since they are expensive to replace, is remove the rust from the inner rim with a wire brush on a drill. For deeper pitted areas, I fill and smooth over the spots with metal epoxy like JB Weld or Permatex Steel Weld then paint the whole inside with Rustoleum. The crank was replaced at some point. It would have had a 48 tooth Heron chain ring originally. They're not hard to find if you would like it to have one. Same for the pedals. It is tricky to get the most out of rod brakes, but you can get reasonably good performance out of them. Cool bike.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 05-11-20, 01:48 PM
  #20  
ChickenKev
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
All finished! I bought a ĎHeroní chainring but it didnít quite fit with the chain guard so Iíve kept the one that was on before. The rims eventually came up ok, and the dynohub and light (with LED bulb) are working, along with new brake blocks that just about stop the bike!
ChickenKev is offline  
Likes For ChickenKev:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.