Front disc brake rubbing noise when out of the saddle
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Québec, Canada
Posts: 2,112
Bikes: SL8 Pro, TCR beater
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 987 Post(s)
Liked 584 Times
in
439 Posts
Thank you all for the quick and super useful feedback.
I think my next steps are going to be 1) Clean and check that the pistons are working properly 2) Adjust the centering by eye to provide the most tolerance 3) Swap front and read rotors to see if anything changes. 4) Increase the distance between pads so that there is more room to accommodate any movement.
I think my next steps are going to be 1) Clean and check that the pistons are working properly 2) Adjust the centering by eye to provide the most tolerance 3) Swap front and read rotors to see if anything changes. 4) Increase the distance between pads so that there is more room to accommodate any movement.
#27
Senior Member
What I was getting at there is the wheel can shift on a hard turn just like out of the saddle and rub against the rotor too. Same rubbing noise. Trying to adjust or move the piston around manually on hyd brakes won't solve anything, they self adjust right back to where they are going to go after using them again.
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
Unless I misunderstand the functionality, you can adjust the point at which the lever engages the master cylinder, but not the gap between the pads and rotor.
#29
Senior Member
If the correct spacer block wasn't used during the bleeding procedure, there could be too much fluid in the system resulting in pads that are too close to the disc when the brake lever is released.
In other words, not enough gap between the pads.
In other words, not enough gap between the pads.
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
If that were the case, it would sort itself out as the pads wear or you could simply push in the pads/pistons manually and let them self-adjust when you pump the brake levers. Doesn't seem likely, though, as it's not making noise otherwise and (that I'm aware of) the current gen levers/calipers are coming filled and pre-bled from Shimano.
#31
Senior Member
If that were the case, it would sort itself out as the pads wear or you could simply push in the pads/pistons manually and let them self-adjust when you pump the brake levers. Doesn't seem likely, though, as it's not making noise otherwise and (that I'm aware of) the current gen levers/calipers are coming filled and pre-bled from Shimano.
It may not be likely, but it is possible. If the OP has the block that likely came with the bike they could check its fitment. It shouldn't require force to insert it between the pads.
I was never one to trust others' work.
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
#33
Senior Member
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
Again, there's no rub unless standing - that should tell you that it's not that far off. Recommending that the OP open up the system to remove fluid when there are dozen other exceptionally common explanations is pretty... yeah, not prudent.
#35
Senior Member
There's air in the reservoir by design; it's why Shimano tells you not to invert the bike - it might work its way between the lever and caliper and cause sponginess. You wouldn't need to open the system up to push in the pistons and gain another half mm of gap.
Again, there's no rub unless standing - that should tell you that it's not that far off. Recommending that the OP open up the system to remove fluid when there are dozen other exceptionally common explanations is pretty... yeah, not prudent.
Again, there's no rub unless standing - that should tell you that it's not that far off. Recommending that the OP open up the system to remove fluid when there are dozen other exceptionally common explanations is pretty... yeah, not prudent.
#36
Senior Citizen
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: North Bend, WA
Posts: 128
Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR7 Disc, Lemond Poprad, 1980 Colnago Super, '88 Specialized Rockhopper
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 69 Post(s)
Liked 576 Times
in
162 Posts
My front rotor rubs when I stand IF I run my front tire pressure somewhere around 75psi or lower. I normally ride 85 rear and 80 front with no issues.
Trek Emonda SLR7 Disc, 58cm
Bontrager Aeolus Pro 3 TLR wheels
Conti 5000 TL tires
I weigh 170 lbs
Trek Emonda SLR7 Disc, 58cm
Bontrager Aeolus Pro 3 TLR wheels
Conti 5000 TL tires
I weigh 170 lbs
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Québec, Canada
Posts: 2,112
Bikes: SL8 Pro, TCR beater
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 987 Post(s)
Liked 584 Times
in
439 Posts
The guy said his rotor was warped - this is the problem.
#38
Senior Citizen
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: North Bend, WA
Posts: 128
Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR7 Disc, Lemond Poprad, 1980 Colnago Super, '88 Specialized Rockhopper
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 69 Post(s)
Liked 576 Times
in
162 Posts
Only standing and riding hard, only on the down strokes. My point in posting was to illustrate that sometimes it can be such a simple fix... I didn't see where the OP had figured out the problem.
#39
Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Solved?
Thank you all for the quick and super useful feedback.
I think my next steps are going to be 1) Clean and check that the pistons are working properly 2) Adjust the centering by eye to provide the most tolerance 3) Swap front and read rotors to see if anything changes. 4) Increase the distance between pads so that there is more room to accommodate any movement.
I think my next steps are going to be 1) Clean and check that the pistons are working properly 2) Adjust the centering by eye to provide the most tolerance 3) Swap front and read rotors to see if anything changes. 4) Increase the distance between pads so that there is more room to accommodate any movement.
It happens when I’m pedaling out of saddle (and pushing). I can’t bear it anymore...
#40
Airplanes, bikes, beer.
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Off the front
Posts: 763
Bikes: Road bikes, mountain bikes, a cx bike, a gravel bike…
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 398 Post(s)
Liked 788 Times
in
339 Posts
My new Canyon did the same thing when I stomped on the pedals out of the saddle, at first. After a few rides I finally got around to checking things over and snugged up the front through axle. No more rubbing out of the saddle. All I hear now is the drope of the hamer.
#41
Asleep at the bars
Join Date: May 2006
Location: San Francisco, CA and Treasure Island, FL
Posts: 1,743
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 234 Post(s)
Liked 203 Times
in
135 Posts
However, I also make a point not to excessively rock the bike; it might only lean 5-10˚ back and forth, and I pay attention to riding in a straight line. This avoids side loading wheels, hubs, tires, frame, etc, and keeps the sidewalls off the pavement and away from debris. It also makes me ride in a straight line, which is the shortest path between two points, so I cover less distance while more energy is put into propelling me forward as opposed lean angle induced losses. (As a result, it'll feel a little harder. The same reason riding out of the saddle on a trainer feels harder.) And, yes, it requires pulling hard on the bars.
Last edited by sfrider; 06-21-20 at 04:26 PM.
#42
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Did you solve your issue? I bought the same bike last year. I’ve been struggling with this issue since then and still trying to find the solution on the net... I tried: swapping rotors, re-centering the pads, increasing tyre pressure, I also tested riding without one of the rotor (alternatively). Nothing worked!
It happens when I’m pedaling out of saddle (and pushing). I can’t bear it anymore...
It happens when I’m pedaling out of saddle (and pushing). I can’t bear it anymore...
#44
Asleep at the bars
Join Date: May 2006
Location: San Francisco, CA and Treasure Island, FL
Posts: 1,743
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 234 Post(s)
Liked 203 Times
in
135 Posts
Here's an exercise: get out of the saddle on a hill, DON'T rock the bike, keep it as upright as possible, and try to ride in a straight line. If you draw a line where you tires went, it should be straight. No weaving. Yes, it will be harder than if you rock the bike, but the reason for this is you put your energy into moving the bike forward up the hill. In addition, it forces you to counteract the rocking motion with your core muscles and shoulders, engaging a wider spectrum of muscles. And indeed it will be harder initially. But you may find even dropping one gear it's sufficiently more efficient to be worthwhile, not just because you put your effort where it matters, but also because you're not trying to ride your bike tilted; even high end wheels and frames that do relatively well tilted will do better upright.
#45
Full Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 242
Bikes: 2020 Pinarello Dogma F12 Disc (Enve SES 3.4), 2021 S-Works Aethos (Roval Alpinist CLX II), 2024 Topstone Lab71 (Terra CLX II), 2006 Cervelo Soloist (10 speed Ultegra), 2021 S-Works Epic
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 74 Post(s)
Liked 74 Times
in
34 Posts
My Canyon Ultimate does this as well when standing and cranking. I would just ignore it, honestly. I stopped chasing disc brake noises a long time ago. There’s always something.