Your Dream Rando Rig
#51
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#52
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- The maps have no street names and cannot be panned if you want to reroute
- There's no equivalent of Garmin's turn guidance highlighting the correct choice when there are 2-3 roads coming together in the same place
- There's no navigation to points of interest like water sources
I ended up with a refurbished Edge 800 after returning the Edge 820 for crashing following courses through roundabouts after returning the ELEMNT for functionality.
1x, 2x, or 3x, tending toward 2x
#53
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The ELEMNT was not my choice for riding anywhere unfamiliar.
- The maps have no street names and cannot be panned if you want to reroute
- There's no equivalent of Garmin's turn guidance highlighting the correct choice when there are 2-3 roads coming together in the same place
- There's no navigation to points of interest like water sources
I ended up with a refurbished Edge 800 after returning the Edge 820 for crashing following courses through roundabouts after returning the ELEMNT for functionality.
Triple, so you can have low gears and pleasant spacing.
- The maps have no street names and cannot be panned if you want to reroute
- There's no equivalent of Garmin's turn guidance highlighting the correct choice when there are 2-3 roads coming together in the same place
- There's no navigation to points of interest like water sources
I ended up with a refurbished Edge 800 after returning the Edge 820 for crashing following courses through roundabouts after returning the ELEMNT for functionality.
Triple, so you can have low gears and pleasant spacing.
I like and use a triple on my rando bike but it's getting harder to find nice cranks for a decent price, and shifters are either downtube or tiagra/sora, unless one goes campagnolo.
What do you use for a dyno based charger? The ones I looked at a few years ago seem kind of expensive, esp. since I already have a nice B&M light, I didn't want to buy another light with the usb plug built in, as convenient as that sounds. I've done alright carrying a lipstick sized battery for brevets.
#54
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I have never seen anyone use a bar end front with brifter rear, but there is no reason you could not do that. My rando bike has a brifter rear and downtube friction front shifter. The downtube shifter started as a temporary measure while I thought about what I wanted for permanent use, but now that I have had the friction downtube shifter for five years, it is slowly becoming permanent.
#55
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Shimano has XTR Di2 triple crank front derailleurs.
I run 2010-2014 Campagnolo Ultrashift. While new shifters are unavailable, they still sell replacement shift mechanisms.
Someone used to make an inline cable housing mechanism that provided a separate lever for shifting between middle and small ring while otherwise using a double brifter.
What do you use for a dyno based charger? The ones I looked at a few years ago seem kind of expensive, esp. since I already have a nice B&M light, I didn't want to buy another light with the usb plug built in, as convenient as that sounds. I've done alright carrying a lipstick sized battery for brevets.
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 07-08-20 at 10:55 AM.
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#56
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I am convinced a subcompact double crank is the way to go on a rando bike. I guess because I know maybe 10 randonneurs that can actually push a 53-11 for any length of time. A 46-11 is a really tall gear. With 46 big chain ring, I can keep it in the big chainring for a considerable portion of a ride. A 28-32 is a very low gear and an 11-32 cassette is reasonably compact with gear jumps that aren't that bad.
I was riding with someone in the middle of the night and his triple stopped shifting. Usually, I would be more interested in troubleshooting, but I told him to choose a chainring and sort it out later. The interesting thing I saw on PBP was that the control bike shops couldn't help with 11 speed.
I was riding with someone in the middle of the night and his triple stopped shifting. Usually, I would be more interested in troubleshooting, but I told him to choose a chainring and sort it out later. The interesting thing I saw on PBP was that the control bike shops couldn't help with 11 speed.
#57
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I am convinced a subcompact double crank is the way to go on a rando bike. I guess because I know maybe 10 randonneurs that can actually push a 53-11 for any length of time. A 46-11 is a really tall gear. With 46 big chain ring, I can keep it in the big chainring for a considerable portion of a ride. A 28-32 is a very low gear and an 11-32 cassette is reasonably compact with gear jumps that aren't that bad.
#58
Go Ride
I believe the last time we rode together was on a flèche that’s Toshi captained in Ohio. I was riding a Soma Double Cross. & you were riding your pre Volae recumbent. Alex Meade (the builder) and I we’re still haggling over details Of this bike at that point!
#59
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Things are shaping up, either acquired, ordered, or in process...
Fork: Fog cutter cro-mo (QR dropouts)
Rear hub: White Industries XMR QR 135 Shimano (silver)
Front hub: SP PD-8 dynohub (silver)
Rims: Stans 2017 Grail X
Crankset: IRD 46/30 square taper (silver, and gorgeous IMO)
Brakes: TRP HY/RD cable actuated hydraulic (black)
FD is undecided but now that I've picked the crankset I can work on that.
Cassette gearing and RD choice to follow. I'm thinking 11-28 will be low enough.
Fenders are TBD. Soma's website says matching fenders are available, but no response to my emails thus far.
Tires I'm thinking Rene Herse Barlow Pass
Meanwhile I'm having a heck of a time finding a place to face and chase the BB and face the head tube. Shops are slammed, the co-ops are closed. I had an appointment today at one shop, arrived to find it closed due to illness. I have contacted a local frame builder, so we'll see.
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#60
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Rims are in hand.
105 FD is in hand. Spec says it can handle a 16t delta, and that's what I have.
Looking at 105 5800 RDs. I'd like to have silver, but they appear to be vaporware. Would look nice with the hubs, and crank. Still waffling on short cage which gets me 30-28, or medium cage for up to 30-32. My local cycling bud tells me 30-28 will get me up any grade, but he's 28 years old and 140 pounds, whilst I'm 59/192. Kids.
Next up: spokes. Wheel build commences as soon as hubs and spokes are in.
Still working on stem, seatpost, chain, fenders, cassette, seat clamp, tires, spokes.
Unfortunately I can't do any building until I find someone to face & chase, unless I decide to skip it.
105 FD is in hand. Spec says it can handle a 16t delta, and that's what I have.
Looking at 105 5800 RDs. I'd like to have silver, but they appear to be vaporware. Would look nice with the hubs, and crank. Still waffling on short cage which gets me 30-28, or medium cage for up to 30-32. My local cycling bud tells me 30-28 will get me up any grade, but he's 28 years old and 140 pounds, whilst I'm 59/192. Kids.
Next up: spokes. Wheel build commences as soon as hubs and spokes are in.
Still working on stem, seatpost, chain, fenders, cassette, seat clamp, tires, spokes.
Unfortunately I can't do any building until I find someone to face & chase, unless I decide to skip it.
#61
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I have never bothered to face and chase a frame, but I looked at the frames first and I can't look at your frame.
I have a 30T chainring for a granny gear on my rando bike triple, I am a lot happier with a 11/32 cassette than I would be with an 11/28. But then I am seven years older than you.
Cage length, I have never bought a shorter cage length when I had a choice of lengths and I never regretted that.
ADDENDUM ADDED A DAY LATER:
If you are really thinking about an 11-28 cassette, get a derailleur and enough chain links for a 32, but install the 11-28. Then a few months to a year later when you change your mind and want the 11-32, you only have to swap the cassette.
I have a 30T chainring for a granny gear on my rando bike triple, I am a lot happier with a 11/32 cassette than I would be with an 11/28. But then I am seven years older than you.
Cage length, I have never bought a shorter cage length when I had a choice of lengths and I never regretted that.
ADDENDUM ADDED A DAY LATER:
If you are really thinking about an 11-28 cassette, get a derailleur and enough chain links for a 32, but install the 11-28. Then a few months to a year later when you change your mind and want the 11-32, you only have to swap the cassette.
Last edited by Tourist in MSN; 07-17-20 at 09:34 AM.
#62
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I think you can get an r7000 rear derailleur in silver, 5800 isn't the most current 11 speed 105 group. Everything I've read says 5800 shifters will work fine with the r7000 derailleurs, plus the shadow design looks pretty cool IMO. I'd go with a long cage and 11-30 or 11-32 cassette, I run 1:1 on my rando rig and used to run lower gears when I was heavier, still could use lower gears once in a blue moon.
#63
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I guess I would skip facing for now. But isn't there an effbuilder you can hit up to do it?
#64
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A mid-cage GS is not meant for use with a max cog smaller than 28, but you're not seriously thinking about an 11-25 cassette, are you? Nobody I ever rode with has ever complained about having low gears that they never use. OTOH many have gotten off the bike with leg cramps because they lacked low enough gears on steep climbs while I spun up the hill seated in my low gear. It's better for your knees too.
I love my 26-32 lowest gear (Sugino compact plus 42/26 + 11-32 cassette with Ultegra 11 speed shifting).
#65
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I have a silver 105 RD-R7000-GS on one of my bikes. It looks more grey than silver to me, but I take that over anodized black any day. The R7000-GS handles up to 34T vs. 32T on the 105 GS and the Shimano 34T 11 speed road cassettes are compatible with 10 speed hubs.
IMHO, short cage derailleurs are for flat races, mid cage and long cage are for everybody else.
A mid-cage GS is not meant for use with a max cog smaller than 28, but you're not seriously thinking about an 11-25 cassette, are you? Nobody I ever rode with has ever complained about having low gears that they never use. OTOH many have gotten off the bike with leg cramps because they lacked low enough gears on steep climbs while I spun up the hill seated in my low gear. It's better for your knees too.
I love my 26-32 lowest gear (Sugino compact plus 42/26 + 11-32 cassette with Ultegra 11 speed shifting).
IMHO, short cage derailleurs are for flat races, mid cage and long cage are for everybody else.
A mid-cage GS is not meant for use with a max cog smaller than 28, but you're not seriously thinking about an 11-25 cassette, are you? Nobody I ever rode with has ever complained about having low gears that they never use. OTOH many have gotten off the bike with leg cramps because they lacked low enough gears on steep climbs while I spun up the hill seated in my low gear. It's better for your knees too.
I love my 26-32 lowest gear (Sugino compact plus 42/26 + 11-32 cassette with Ultegra 11 speed shifting).
#66
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With R7000, either the SS or the GS would handle a largest sprocket of 30T, but for SS it would be up to 23T-30T whereas for GS it would be 30T-34T.
For 5800 it was 23T-28T for SS and 28T-32T for GS.
For 5800 it was 23T-28T for SS and 28T-32T for GS.
#67
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It took me over 4 years of searching to find a 1980's Miyata 1000 in my size
I found one in May from a seller in Germany .... took several emails to convince him to ship it to the UK
Bike is in mint condition and was his late father's who bought it brand new, was very nervous of riding with drop bars, so stored it indoors for 44 years
I'm still changing things and so far I've done the following:
HED Belgium Plus rims (tubeless rims), SON 28 Dynamo hub, Royce rear hub and am currently using Continental GP 5000 TL (tubeless tyres in 32mm wide)
Honjo hammered fenders which will allow me to use tyres up to 38mm wide
Brooks Cambium C17 Carved saddle
3 Nitto stainless steel bottle cages
MTB clipless pedals
Japanese Crane Suzu brass bell
Supernova front and rear dynamo lights (I need to change the front Supernova E3 triple light to the Supernova E3 Pro light as the triple is way too bright for oncoming cars (it has a symetrical light beam)
I've bought the Tubus Cosmo stainless steel back rack
Still to buy the Tubus stainless front rack
Still to buy 4 Ortlieb bags (I have the full set of Miss Grape bikepacking bags for when I want to travel lighter without the pannier bags)
still to buy the Sinewave Revolution powerbank charger
still to buy a secondary front USB light such as a Lupine ... I have a Cygolite Hotshot pro 200 as a rear backup
then I think I'm done .... my first tour will be in May/June 2020 along a part of the Wild Atlantic way in Ireland (fishing/camping where possible plus some B&B inbetween) .... I'm using this bike as my daily commuter and will also use it for some Audax rides
I still have all the original parts (including the original Miyata Radial tyres), original Miyata pedals, mirror etc should I wish to enter L'Eroica events
here's a pic from a while back with the original miyata rack (It came with the original Miyata front and rear racks but they are not as strong as Tubus)
If I were to buy a newer bike, I'd be looking very closely at something like a Mason Bokeh with disc brakes
I found one in May from a seller in Germany .... took several emails to convince him to ship it to the UK
Bike is in mint condition and was his late father's who bought it brand new, was very nervous of riding with drop bars, so stored it indoors for 44 years
I'm still changing things and so far I've done the following:
HED Belgium Plus rims (tubeless rims), SON 28 Dynamo hub, Royce rear hub and am currently using Continental GP 5000 TL (tubeless tyres in 32mm wide)
Honjo hammered fenders which will allow me to use tyres up to 38mm wide
Brooks Cambium C17 Carved saddle
3 Nitto stainless steel bottle cages
MTB clipless pedals
Japanese Crane Suzu brass bell
Supernova front and rear dynamo lights (I need to change the front Supernova E3 triple light to the Supernova E3 Pro light as the triple is way too bright for oncoming cars (it has a symetrical light beam)
I've bought the Tubus Cosmo stainless steel back rack
Still to buy the Tubus stainless front rack
Still to buy 4 Ortlieb bags (I have the full set of Miss Grape bikepacking bags for when I want to travel lighter without the pannier bags)
still to buy the Sinewave Revolution powerbank charger
still to buy a secondary front USB light such as a Lupine ... I have a Cygolite Hotshot pro 200 as a rear backup
then I think I'm done .... my first tour will be in May/June 2020 along a part of the Wild Atlantic way in Ireland (fishing/camping where possible plus some B&B inbetween) .... I'm using this bike as my daily commuter and will also use it for some Audax rides
I still have all the original parts (including the original Miyata Radial tyres), original Miyata pedals, mirror etc should I wish to enter L'Eroica events
here's a pic from a while back with the original miyata rack (It came with the original Miyata front and rear racks but they are not as strong as Tubus)
If I were to buy a newer bike, I'd be looking very closely at something like a Mason Bokeh with disc brakes
#68
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I normally ride a 52-53cm roadbike, but the Miyata 1000 has different geometry, as the top tube is longer than normal bikes. So, when buying one, you need to use the top tube length as your main dimension when sizing. My Miyata is a 50cm
Soon after I bought the bike, I had a professional bike fit done where you are linked to a computer with diodes placed all over your body .... you are connected to a computer, then pedal....before the bike fit you tell the person what sort of riding you are doing (TT, Racing, touring, long distance etc etc )
you appear on a big tv screen as a skeleton pedalling, and the computer analizes all the angles of your body parts (back angle, arm angles, leg angles etc etc ) and the ones that are not good are highlighted in red ...
the guy who does the analasis then adjusts your bike until all the angles are correct and display as green. Even setting your cleats takes half an hour (I needed insoles in my shoes)
as the bike appears in the photo, is the result from the computer analasis and the bike has been set for long distance riding with hands on the hoods
after the session, the bike felt a bit wierd, as I had set it up differently .... after a few weeks, it's super comfy for long distance..... I paid £200 (approx 250 USD) .... money very well spent IMHO and I will eventually have my Trek Emonda set up aswell
this is the bike fit I had: (I'm 5'7" and have a 28 inch inseam)
https://primocycles.co.uk/bike-fitting-2/
#69
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First ride, about six flat miles. After a few tweaks I went out for a hilly 12 mile ride before dinner. So nice; I set three Strava PRs in my excitement. Reach is a little longer than my previous bike; the bars a bit lower and significantly wider. That's all intentional; we'll see how it goes. I plan to ride a 100k tomorrow - that will tell me a lot about fit.
Tires are Gravelking slicks, 38mm, 45psi. My first tubeless setup, it was pretty straightforward. Love the ride so far.
Matching fenders from Soma are on order. Those will go on in the fall.
Silver bottle holders are also on order. For now I'll use jersey pockets for bottles.
Bar endplugs are on order. French flag pattern, as I hope this bike goes with me to PBP 2023.
No rack decision yet. Still considering baggage options.
The steerer won't be cut down until I'm confident in the fit. Final spacers will be silver, as will the final stem, seatpost and clamp.
The TRP Hy Rd cable actuated hydraulic brakes take a lot of lever travel before engaging, by design. That will take getting used to but I think they'll be great.
Headset was supposed to be silver but I ordered wrong. I don't care for the look, but I'll probably live with it.
Also no lights yet. If this truly becomes my rando rig, I'll pull the dynolights off the recumbent.
I don't have my tubeless flat repair sorted out. In the world of tubes I'll carry one tube, patch kit, and pump while JRA, and three tubes, patch kit, one tire, and pump on brevets.
Tires are Gravelking slicks, 38mm, 45psi. My first tubeless setup, it was pretty straightforward. Love the ride so far.
Matching fenders from Soma are on order. Those will go on in the fall.
Silver bottle holders are also on order. For now I'll use jersey pockets for bottles.
Bar endplugs are on order. French flag pattern, as I hope this bike goes with me to PBP 2023.
No rack decision yet. Still considering baggage options.
The steerer won't be cut down until I'm confident in the fit. Final spacers will be silver, as will the final stem, seatpost and clamp.
The TRP Hy Rd cable actuated hydraulic brakes take a lot of lever travel before engaging, by design. That will take getting used to but I think they'll be great.
Headset was supposed to be silver but I ordered wrong. I don't care for the look, but I'll probably live with it.
Also no lights yet. If this truly becomes my rando rig, I'll pull the dynolights off the recumbent.
I don't have my tubeless flat repair sorted out. In the world of tubes I'll carry one tube, patch kit, and pump while JRA, and three tubes, patch kit, one tire, and pump on brevets.
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#70
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I keep meaning to get a plug system for my tubeless bikes. So far I just carry a bottle of sealant and a valve tool in addition to a tube.
No fenders?
No fenders?
#71
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Good call on waiting to cut steerer tube. You can always make it shorter, but can't make them longer. When I did cut it on one of my bikes, I intentionally left it a bit long. And then cut it again, also leaving it a bit long. The third and final cut was a couple years after I built up the bike.
If you flip the stem so it is closer to horizontal, you can leave the steerer a bit longer and avoid it being unsightly, thus if years from now you wanted the bars up higher, you could raise it at that time by flipping the stem again.
Nice looking bike.
If you flip the stem so it is closer to horizontal, you can leave the steerer a bit longer and avoid it being unsightly, thus if years from now you wanted the bars up higher, you could raise it at that time by flipping the stem again.
Nice looking bike.
#72
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#73
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Good call on waiting to cut steerer tube. You can always make it shorter, but can't make them longer. When I did cut it on one of my bikes, I intentionally left it a bit long. And then cut it again, also leaving it a bit long. The third and final cut was a couple years after I built up the bike.
If you flip the stem so it is closer to horizontal, you can leave the steerer a bit longer and avoid it being unsightly, thus if years from now you wanted the bars up higher, you could raise it at that time by flipping the stem again.
Nice looking bike.
If you flip the stem so it is closer to horizontal, you can leave the steerer a bit longer and avoid it being unsightly, thus if years from now you wanted the bars up higher, you could raise it at that time by flipping the stem again.
Nice looking bike.
Thanks, I think it's gorgeous 😀
#74
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Almost the final form. After the world comes back I'll get a pro fit, and the final seatpost and stem will be silver.
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#75
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I like the matching fenders and mudflaps. I always wanted to do that.
Maybe next time I get a bike powder coated
Maybe next time I get a bike powder coated